Posts by Kimberly Gomez34

A 250X or maybe even a used HD7770 would still make for a pretty decent combo.

It’s a solid value for that price point.

Honestly, you won't even find a 250X at those prices anymore, let alone a 260X. If reaching those two isn't an option, then going with used parts is the move—he could probably track down an HD7850. However, that’s only viable if he has a CPU capable of keeping up with them and a power supply sturdy enough to handle the load.

Actually, Intel handles monitoring differently than AMD. That value you're seeing in Core Temp isn't actually the CPU temperature; they refer to that specific reading as "socket temp."

http://imageshack.com/a/img163/833/tbgx.png

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=1#post5237937

There have been massive debates over what exactly defines what.

It might be DOA 🤷

When you're hunting through the used market, you have to be lightning-fast. If you spot a genuine steal, you need to grab it immediately because those deals vanish in a heartbeat. Most of the stuff just sitting there gathering dust on Craigslist is frankly laughable—in 90% of cases, the prices are ridiculous, sometimes even higher than what you'd pay at a retail store. 🤣Watch out for scams—you know the ones, when an offer looks way too good to be true. If you stay sharp, you can pull together a complete build whenever you're ready. Honestly, I think checking out the marketplaces on various forums is actually a better move than using Craigslist.

Regarding Craigslist, I’ve been scouring the listings for graphics cards lately. There is really only one standout deal worth mentioning—a GTX 560Ti for... $150 It’s probably a scam—if it were legit, it would have been snapped up ages ago—or maybe the guy just forgot to take the listing down. You might stumble upon a couple of decent deals here and there, but that's about it. Nothing special.

If you're planning on tackling any major AAA titles, I’d suggest setting aside at least $400. $167Even up to 5. $0.00 You can find a decent Best Buy deal featuring an Intel Core i7 paired with an R9 270 or 280.

How can you say it won't fit? I'm getting a much more powerful and significantly better power supply, a GPU with a longer warranty and a superior cooler (all while being cheaper), plus a better SSD with a 5-year warranty.

1 x Intel Core i5-4460 socket 1150
1 x ASUS B85M-G 2 Motherboard
2 x Crucial 4GB DDR3 1600 Mhz (PC3-12800) CL11
1 x GIGABYTE Video Card GeForce GTX 970 GDDR5 4GB/256bit, 1114MHz/7000MHz, PCI-E 3.0 x16, HDMI, 2x DVI, 3x DP, WINDFORCE 3X Cooler(Double Slot), Retail
1 x HDD SEAGATE Barracuda (3.5",1TB,64MB,SATA III)
1 x Zalman Z3, USB3.0 black, 3x120mm
1 x LG GH24NSC0 sat Bulk Black 24 x 1 x Super Flower Golden Green 550 w
1 x Super Flower Golden Green 550W, 80+ Gold
1 x Samsung 120 GB 850 EVO Basic

Total: $2663 it futura

With the HyperX SSD, it'll be around $2607

If he's aiming for the premium version, I think his best bet would be grabbing the GTX 970, especially with that 3-year warranty. From there, he might want to put the rest of the budget toward a higher-end power supply—something like an XFX 550w ts, a CS450M, or maybe a Super Flower 450/550w.

That i5-2400 isn't exactly new. Where on earth did you find one in such good condition?

By the way, I saw an i5-3350p over at Micro Center for $300, though I'm not sure if they still have any in stock.

1. There’s really no excuse there, because prices have spiked and now those processors are sitting north of $2,000. $700 On top of that, you'd need a high-end Motherboard that's just as pricey, and if you're building for overclocking, you're looking at an extra cooler and more gear. Honestly, the worst-case scenario is spending all that premium just to never actually overclock. You get much better value out of an AMD FX 8300 or an AMD FX 8320 E. If you're leaning toward Intel because you need that single-threaded performance for games like World of Tanks or StarCraft II, then your best bet is the most budget-friendly i5 available—something like a 4440 or 4460.

2. No.

3. They are, but depending on how much cash you want to drop, an XFX power supply might not actually be your best bang for the buck.

4. With that kind of money on the table, don't even hesitate; a Z3 or Z3+ is easily your best buy.

To be honest, trying to give advice with such a massive budget range is tough. You could build a hundred different setups this way or that. It’s much easier to make recommendations when the budget is tight; then, the "best value" becomes obvious and almost everyone agrees. When you're comparing components from completely different tiers, it's a different story. For example, take a Z3 case versus a Fractal R4. One person might think paying double for a case is a waste, while someone else thinks it's the way to go because of the superior build quality. It's all about personal preference. The same goes for GPUs; it depends entirely on what games you play and how you view value. Some people see spending over $300 on a card as throwing money away if a cheaper one runs everything fine, while others who crave maxed-out details and high FPS won't dream of anything less.

Essentially, you have two years of coverage. Even if the manufacturer only offers a one-year warranty (take Apple or HP, for example), we in the US operate under retailer liability laws for material defects that span two years. In short:

In short, everyone gets a two-year window on an iPhone (and other devices) per consumer protection standards, and you can exercise that right right where you bought the phone.

The confusion usually stems from that 12-month expiration mark, which is standard practice in Germany and many other places, not just here.
Retailers highlight the 12-month limit because that is the manufacturer's specific warranty, which might be subject to their own terms listed in the warranty document.

The manufacturer provides the 12-month warranty, and during that first year, the responsibility lies with them.
A customer can either file a claim through the retail store or go directly to the manufacturer during those first 12 months, using the warranty card that specifies the one-year term.

Anything after that initial period falls under the retailer's responsibility, as they are legally obligated to provide coverage for products sold for at least 24 months.
Technically, after those first 12 months, it’s no longer called a "warranty" but rather "liability for material defects," though for the consumer, it’s effectively the same thing.

All a buyer needs to know is that they have 24 months of coverage; they don't necessarily need a physical warranty card stating this—the receipt is sufficient.

Apple essentially limits its direct involvement after those first 12 months, leaving any additional costs to the retailer who is bound by law to cover them.
Of course, a retailer might try to play dumb or turn a customer away, but that is when you take legal action against them.

If you notice a defect or flaw in a product, you must notify the retailer within two months of discovering the issue to exercise your right to claim liability for material defects.

Within two years of the purchase date, a consumer can claim liability for material defects provided they notified the retailer of the defect within that two-month window.

https://www.ftc.gov/about-ftc/bureaus-offices/bureau-consumer-protection

For example, an official government opinion:

View on imgur
View on imgur

A real-life example:

I'm having trouble with my iPhone 4s—the Wi-Fi is greyed out. My Verizon warranty expired since the phone is 19 months old. This happened after upgrading to iOS 7.I contacted Apple technical support, and they told me I am entitled to two years of coverage in the US and should visit an authorized service center.

If the store refuses, send them a formal complaint via certified mail with a return receipt, which they are required to respond to within 15 days.

http://consumer.ftc.gov/sites/default/files/documents/complaint_form.pdf

Suddenly, you'll find you actually have those 2 years.😬

Now, that is a different matter: whether they will actually acknowledge or admit there is a defect, as Jonathan Wood5 mentioned.

The GTX 970 pulls about 40W more than the GTX 960, meaning even that XFX 450 w would likely hold up just fine. Also, if you're looking at those pricier GTX 970 models—the ones pushing over $300—you might want to consider an R9 290 starting around $867, though keep in mind they'll draw roughly 80-90W more power

It could also be a temperature issue with your hardware, like the CPU or GPU, or potentially a problem with your power supply since you're crashing during the loading screen.
To monitor your temperatures while you're actually playing, you can use software like PlayClaw 3 for something straightforward, or MSI Afterburner—just go into settings, hit monitoring, check the boxes for whatever stats you want to track, and then make sure to select "show in on-screen display" at the bottom.

It’s just that even though it's more expensive—and actually performs worse—it offers very little space. That case mentioned above is only about 31 x 26 x 7 cm.

Something along those lines, maybe from a place like Best Buy

1 x Intel Celeron G1840 1 x
1 x ASRock H81M-ITX
1 x Crucial 4GB DDR3 1600 Mhz (PC3-12800) CL11
1 x Seagate Barracuda Hard Drive (3.5", 1TB, 64MB, SATA III)
1 x Linkworld Mini-ITX Case Black (LKW-920-01C2121-200W) It looks like this

Total: $684

Look, if we're strictly talking about video playback, I don't see any reason why an Intel Celeron G1840 1 x costing roughly $100 wouldn't handle it flawlessly. An i3 definitely isn't the bare minimum here. Sure, if you're planning on doing heavy video editing, you’ll want a beefier processor, but for just watching content? It should be smooth sailing.

You could easily toss that into a Mini-ITX build from a place like Best Buy along with a decent power supply
.
EDIT: I just looked into it, and even an Intel NUC 847 handles High Profile 10-bit "almost" perfectly.

http://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=171981

And here is some more recent info:

Bottom line: with that Celeron—which is significantly more powerful than what you're worried about—you're good to go.

At the very least, you should knock 20% off whatever price you originally paid

Sure, it's a solid power supply.

What specific power supply are you running? Please don't just give me a vague "400W" or "500W" estimate—I need the exact model number...
Also, what CPU are you using?

Honestly, if an NVIDIA GTX 460 can handle the load, then that used AMD Radeon R9 270 mentioned in the post above yours should work just fine too.

Look, since newer models are retailing for around $1,100--$400 it’s a decent deal, BUT it absolutely needs to come with a warranty. You really shouldn't settle for anything less than a 2-year guarantee. These cards have only been out on the US market for a little over a year, so there's also the question of how long he's actually been sitting on it.

You might want to take a look at this instead. If it's about two years old, it should still carry at least a 1-year warranty, and it packs way more punch than a 750Ti.

Also, do you happen to know which processor is in there? Is it a Q9650?