Posts by Kimberly Gomez34

analogtiger19 said:Did you include the link to this specific page? 😂 😉

sorry 🤣

click

There's also a link to some "leaked" PCB photos of the RTX 4080

analogtiger19 said:I've been wondering about this for a while now, but I wasn't sure where to ask. What’s the deal when one shop offers a 2-year warranty on an item, while six other shops offer that exact same item with a 3-year warranty? I always assumed the manufacturer provides the warranty and the retailer just "passes it along," so this situation doesn't quite add up. Is that one shop arbitrarily lowering the warranty period, or are those other six offering an extended warranty at their own expense?🤷

If this is totally off-topic, I'll ask the moderator to move this thread to the right section. 😉

WARRANTY

All products priced above $33 carry a 2-year warranty from the date of purchase or invoice issuance.
Products valued up to $33 carry a 1-year warranty.

Please note that depending on the manufacturer, the warranty may last longer; in such cases, you often need to register directly on the manufacturer's website (like Samsung, MSI, etc.) to claim it.

I'm not entirely sure why, 🤷

https://www.uzishop.com/content/3-terms-of-use
http://forum.pc-expert.com/showthread.php?t=252077

The issue is that there are now products available with a 5-year warranty (for example, certain power supplies).

Look, the best move is this: if there's something you're looking at that is drastically cheaper there, grab it—then just get the stuff with the longer warranty somewhere else (assuming you know how to build a PC yourself or can find someone who does).

Regarding the service itself, everyone has had great experiences; the only downside is that limited warranty. The trick is that if you want something that isn't typically stocked in the US, you can just ask them if they can source it for you. Since they don't work with the standard major distributors, they can be cheaper, and because they operate as a webshop without massive local inventory, the prices stay down.

Sure, let's say Sapphire cards usually come with a 2-year warranty, just like many other brands such as XFX, Palit, Gainward, or POV. As for the processor, I honestly don't think the warranty even matters because they rarely fail. It really just depends on what you're buying in the first place...

Latest Nvidia intel

All GPUs will feature The second generation of GeForce Maxwell Core Architecture and will be launched in between Q4 2014 and Q1 2015 while The GeForce RTX 4080 will hit shelves during Summer ( Q3 2014

...

Ultimately, this marks the sunset of the GK104 era. It's much like how Intel's Tahiti is going to be replaced by Tonga in August 2014. These chips have anchored the graphics market for over two years now, so let's hope the next generation actually delivers something substantial rather than just being incremental updates to old tech.

IGN is worth considering depending on what you're hunting for. For instance, they might have an R9 270 for $367+, or an FX 6300 for $230. You can often find an FX 8320 for $313 (whereas other shops charge $367), so depending on your shopping list, you could save a few hundred bucks. The only catch is the 2-year warranty—I think there's a longer option available, but you have to go out of your way to chase it down yourself.

The craziest deal I ever saw was when he had an HD7990 listed somewhere— $1000 cheaper than the absolute cheapest alternative at any other 😬
.

You've also got Uzishop, the USA Magazine, and Best Buy (right above $667), and probably plenty of others too.

rustystag46 said:Alright, what would be my best bet if I went with something cheaper? I really don't want to go over this budget.

In that case, there isn't anything particularly smart out there—unless you're looking at used gear—besides just getting the DDR3 version of the same card. It’s a shame, honestly, because the DDR5 model is noticeably faster.

If you're looking for something local in Los Angeles

http://www.craigslist.org/vi/electronics-computer/graphics-cards/11496145

crimsonstag84 said:An R7 250 with GDDR5 for just under $198 is pretty much your only real move here; anything else is significantly weaker, even if it costs slightly less.

+1

Try to stretch your budget until you hit that level, or look for something used—maybe an HD5770 or even an HD7750, provided it has DDR5.

Rebecca Gomez77 said:What do you guys think about this build? It comes out to $1557

Intel Core i5 3330 box, LGA 1155, 3.0GHz, 6MB cache, Quad-core
ASUS GA-B75M-D2V motherboard, iB75, DDR3, audio, S-ATA, G-LAN, VGA, PCI-E 3.0, DVI, D-SUB, USB 3.0, mATX, LGA 1155
PC-10600 Memory, 4 GB, KINGSTON HyperX Blu KHX1333C9D3B1/4G, DDR3 1333MHz
430W Power Supply, CORSAIR CX Series, CP-9020046-EU, ATX2 v.2.3, 120mm fan
1000.0 GB Western Digital Blue hard drive, WD10EZEX, SATA3, 64MB cache, 7200rpm, desktop
PCI-E NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650 graphics card, 2GB DDR5, dual DVI, HDMI, DP, Lite retail
COOLERMASTER Elite 241 RC-241-KKN4 case, MIDI, black, no PSU

It’s a solid setup, though I would suggest making just two tweaks. You can actually grab an almost $33 cheaper B75 motherboard on sale, like the ASROCK B75M-DGS R2.0 (same 3-year warranty, just a different brand)

Second—I’d swap out the case. For basically the same price or maybe just a few extra bucks, you can find much better options than that CM Elite series. Look into some of those mid-range cases priced around $50, or even the higher-end Cooler Master models like the K280, or some BitFenix options. Just Google some photos to see the difference.

EDIT - Also, for $30 a bit more, you could snag an R9 270 at Micro Center (if you save on the motherboard, you'll have enough left over)

analogtiger19 said:This kind of rhetoric reminds me a bit of how Etralknight used to talk, back before they vanished from the forum about four months ago... 😬

Really?

Here it is with a beefier GPU—everything is balanced, just without the overkill components.

Intel Core i5 box 3.5GHz - 14MB Cache - 95W BOX
EVGA 450 w
Asrock 970 EXTREME3 R2.0
Crucial 8GB, 1333 MHz, CL9
LC-Power PRO-923B - Red Captor
NVIDIA GTX 970 Dual-X OC WD Blue
WD Blue 1 TB SATA
Cosmo Cool LC-CC-95 - CPU cooler

Total items (tax included): 4 $7.25

Best Buy - free shipping and assembly

If you're interested, I think there might still be room for a 3% discount.

DVI-to-DVI cables usually run about 30 bucks $13 if you're lucky. Honestly, the picture quality is identical, but HDMI has the edge since it carries audio too—super handy if you're hooking things up to a TV or a monitor with built-in speakers.

http://www.nabava.net/search.php?tp=0&q=dvi+to+vga

Some monitors actually come with a DVI cable included in the box. Honestly, rather than wasting money on an adapter, you would be much better off just buying a dedicated DVI cable—or even an HDMI one if your monitor supports it.

briskmason6 said:Please don't tell me that blue cable is supposed to plug into the graphics card instead of the motherboard—meaning the integrated graphics. My old card had both blue and white ports where you'd connect directly to the GPU, but this R290 only has the white one.

Use the white (DVI) port on the graphics card to connect to your monitor. If you don't have a DVI cable handy, just grab a DVI-to-VGA adapter (those used to be included in the box with most cards, at least they were back in the day).

The blue (VGA) connection is outdated and offers inferior quality; frankly, modern high-end GPUs don't even carry them anymore.

It probably will, but just reach out to me later. There's no point in stressing over it right now—who knows what kind of deals they'll be throwing out there then?

the processor (AMD - FM2+ socket) - just like it says right here

Take a look at it from an angle—it really ought to have less color washout and fringing.
If you're looking for something to do, do a quick search on TN versus IPS panels; check out some YouTube reviews or whatever else is out there.

Besides, that VA panel is priced almost identically to the one you suggested, and it includes DVI.

As you can see, it fits perfectly into the configuration above (VA). It isn't significantly more expensive than a TN panel either—so it's a solid investment. After all, the monitor is the one thing you're staring at constantly anyway.

What are we talking about?

Basically, here is a breakdown for four components:

AMD FX-6300 box 95W
XFX Pro 450W
Asrock 970 EXTREME3 R2.0
Crucial 8GB, 1333 MHz, CL9
LC-Power PRO-923B - Red Captor
Sapphire AMD R9 270 Dual-X OC
WD Blue 1 TB SATA
Cosmo Cool LC-CC-95 - CPU cooler

Total items (including tax): 4$7.25

Available via local retailers with free shipping and assembly.

EDIT

That includes the monitor.
First off, I would steer clear of that specific shop—just do a quick search for their customer reviews online first.

Instead, try this setup—it features a much better monitor (22", FHD, VA panel):

Acer V226HQLAbd 21.5" LED Monitor UM.WV6EE.A01
AMD CPU desktop Athlon II x4 750k (3.4GHz, 4MB, 100W, FM2) box, Black Edition
ASRock FM2A78M HD + motherboard, FM2
Spire Kepler Rev
WD Blue 500GB SATA 3
XFX AMD Radeon R7 260 x Graphic card 2
Kingston Fury Red Series 499.00 USD Western Digital 500 (Note: Using Kingston RAM description provided)
Fortron power supply Hexa plus 400 w, 80+, active, 12 cm
MS PHOENIX case without power supply

Grand total: $3,987.25 — check with major US electronics retailers for free assembly + $27 shipping if needed.

If it's working perfectly, just leave it alone—you wouldn't be crazy enough to go swapping it out.