Plus, the motherboard is mATX, so the GPU fits without any issues, and you still get those USB 3.0 ports... Honestly, at this price point, you aren't going to find other cases that offer better build quality or more features; they’d likely just be bigger.
Swap Kova for a wolf, switch Perišić and Pranja, and put Ola in the attack instead of Dud (to handle counterattacks, apply pressure, and just play with some grit). Ivica Olić is perfect for big matches; he was vital in every single one of our major victories. It would also be interesting to see Visuljka in Srna's spot, with Srna moving up front.
If you're just looking for some quick RAM to get an integrated system up and running, I'd suggest grabbing something budget-friendly from a standard retailer like Best Buy But honestly, if you don't need it specifically for an integrated setup, just go with the cheapest option available.
Basically—you don't need integrated graphics on the motherboard. If it's there, fine; if not, who cares? Just look for something more budget-friendly...
What's even the point of having integrated graphics in a CPU if you're buying a "real" dedicated GPU for your PC?
Absolutely nothing. 😬
By the way, the suggested Intel Core i5-3350P 3.1 doesn't even have integrated graphics...
I’m telling you—that opening match is a total disaster waiting to happen. I’ve said this before: during the last Euro, we drew the easiest possible openers, like Austria or Ireland, matches we were practically expected to win, so all the focus stayed on the long game. But man, I can’t imagine how hard it is for them to keep their cool when they’re staring down Brazil right at the start of a World Cup. The hype alone is going to be overwhelming. It’s incredibly tough to stay focused on the next steps, like Mexico or Cameroon, when you’re dealing with that kind of adrenaline spike in the very first game.
I totally miscalculated the official TDP for this GPU. I just realized the 280 is rated at 200W—which, granted, is usually lower during actual gaming—but the 280X sits at 250W. Once I start overclocking, it’ll probably be pulling power like a 280X.
For 417W -> i7 3970X @ 4.7GHz drawing 250W under load
TweakTown uses the 3960X, but honestly, there isn't much of a difference. Speaking of power draw (looking back at some old news):
MSI is introducing the R9 290 x LIGHTNING, which offers massive overclocking headroom; by utilizing two 8-pin and one 6-pin PCIe power connectors, it can "handle" up to 450W of power.
Check this out—it hits 417w (though that’s mostly just the 3DMark peak and a 130w CPU draw), while this one pulls 355w with the 3570K. Naturally, running it with an XFX 450w won't be an issue at all; I only went with that specific unit because it fits the budget perfectly and leaves me some breathing room.
crimsonstag84 said:A 450W unit should definitely cut it. The Intel Core i5-3350P 3.1 draws very little power (only 69W), so even under full system stress, you'll barely hit 250W. Plus, if he uses a Z77 motherboard, he can always play around with the TurboBoost multiplier to squeeze out an extra 300-400MHz if needed. 🙂
Did you mean up to 350W? If I recall correctly, the 280-series alone is rated at 250W.
He probably won't even need a Z77 board. In all honesty, very few people actually bother upgrading, and I highly doubt this guy is planning to overclock (unless he eventually jumps to an i7 k). My take is that he’ll run this setup for years and be perfectly happy with it. Once that i5 finally feels sluggish down the road, he’ll be looking for used i7 chips anyway, and by then, building something entirely new will likely be more cost-effective. Of course, if his budget isn't strictly capped at $50, he should grab what he wants...
By the way, I suspect used i7 CPUs for LGA 1155 and 1150 will become overpriced once everyone starts upgrading (similar to how Q9xxx and until recently Q6xxx behaved)—basically, demand will far outstrip supply.
Bradley Wright47 said:Hey there! I'm looking to put together a PC for my nephew so he can play modern games, but I need to keep the total cost under $1667. Looking through the forums here, it seems like buying pre-built rigs isn't always the best move, but honestly, I don't have the spare time to source individual parts and assemble it myself. I'm a bit lost and really want to avoid wasting money on junk. Plus, since this is a gift from my company, I absolutely need a proper receipt for the reimbursement process... Any advice on what to get or where to look?
Take a look at this build from adm.hr (they offer free assembly and shipping)
1 x SAPPHIRE AMD Radeon R9 280 3 1 x Intel Core i5-3350P 3.1 1 x MSI B75MA-E33, Socket : 1155, microATX, Intel B75, 2xDDR3 1 x DDR3 8GB (1x8GB) Kingston, HyperX Fury, 1600MHz, CL10 1 x Caviar Blue 3.5, 1000 GB, SATA3,64 MB, 3,5" 1 x XFX TS Series 550W PSU -P1550S-XXB9 1 x Samsung SH-224DB sat Bulk Black, SATA 1 x Zalman ZM-T1 PLUS micro tower case. 189(W) x 427,5(H) x 364(D)mm
Asus just unveiled the GTX 780 featuring a brand new STRIX cooler that keeps the fans completely silent during idle periods. http://www.techpowerup.com/201067/as...hics-card.html
ruggedeagle40 said:I have one more question for you. 😁 Why wouldn't you just go with the 750? From what I can see, the difference in power draw is negligible. My current setup sits at 50W, the GTX 750 pulls about 55W, and the GTX 750 Ti is only around 60W. Surely my current cooling solution could handle running that card for a while? As far as I can tell... hwcompare It isn't a massive difference, really. But if I decide to jump to a completely new build in a few years—which isn't off the table, because let's face it, I have a bit of a consumerist streak—I believe I’d be able to sell this specific combination much faster and for a better price. Most casual buyers out there don't look any further than the GB count anyway. 😬).
They advised me to go with the cheaper version because, frankly, it just isn't worth the extra money. $67 Is it worth going for the more expensive option, or should I stick with the budget choice?
Look, you can definitely make it work. My suggestion for the GTX 750 was based purely on finding that sweet spot—it’s the bare minimum you’d want if you actually want The Witcher 2 to run smoothly without blowing your power supply, especially since the retail price at Best Buy is relatively reasonable for a casual gamer like yourself. If you want to step it up, you could go with the 750Ti; it’s a bit more powerful and costs a little extra, but the power draw remains just as low.
mellowtiger83 said:It isn't even a brand-new unit; I just sold one recently as part of a custom build from March 2014. Honestly, I didn't notice any issues at all. Every PC undergoes extensive testing before it ever reaches a customer, and that drive performed perfectly fine.
Take a look:
Newly manufactured V300′s are confirmed to have switched to Micron 20nm asynchronous flash memory which changes the theoretical NAND interface bandwidth from 200MB/s to roughly 50MB/s. That’s a 75% reduction in potential bandwidth which jives with the nearly across-the-board 60% loss of performance seen in some AS SSD screenshots.
Look, it's still much faster than a standard hard drive since it's an SSD, but buying this now would be madness given the massive drop in performance. It makes no sense when you consider that Samsung's high-end drives have dropped significantly in price and aren't much more expensive anymore.
Well, the opener didn't exactly show much enthusiasm for overclocking configurations. Looking at this from a pure gaming perspective—strictly for his brother—an R9 280 would be the limit here. Honestly, though, it might be smarter if he doesn't even bother picking up a GPU right now. It’s better to wait until his brother actually needs one in six months or a year. If he just needs an office PC for now, an R9 280 would be a total waste of electricity. My suggestion? Grab a solid CPU with integrated graphics for the time being, like an i5-4440. It won't make a difference for basic tasks, and then he can just add a dedicated graphics card later down the road. By then, he'll likely get something much more powerful for the same price, and the current setup would have served its purpose anyway.
Which specific monitor are you using? I find it hard to believe that’s the actual resolution; you must have mixed up the specs. Those types of displays are standard at 1280x1024.
He’d honestly be better off grabbing an R9 280; it's a smarter move and saves him some cash. http://www.diskont24.com/product.php?productid=135731 Then, he can just take whatever money is left over and upgrade the power supply to an XFX 550.
Prices might be slightly lower in Austria or Canada, but I'm not sure if it's worth the headache of dealing with potential warranty issues from abroad, so you should weigh that carefully...
Since you already have the drives, here is how I would build it:
1 x Asrock H81M-HDS 1 x Intel Core i5-4440 (3.10GHz, 1MB, 6MB, 84 W, 1150) Box 1 x Zalman Z3 PLUS mid tower case. 192(W)x465(H)x430(D)mm. 1 x Samsung 120 GB 840 evo Basic, SSD disk, Capacity 120 GB, 2.5" 1 x Samsung SH-224DB sat Bulk Black, SATA 1 x DDR3 8GB (1x8GB) Kingston, HyperX Blue, 1600MHz, CL10 1 x Sapphire R9 270 2GB, OC Boost, 2GB GDDR5 256bit 1 x XFX P1-450S-X2B9 Pro Series Core edition 80 450 w pas
It comes out to roughly $1667. To get the best deal, check component by component on sites like PCPartPicker to see where things are cheapest. You can also swap in any other 8GB DDR3 RAM (just grab the most budget-friendly option you find), and there are plenty of other brands for the R9 270 graphics card too (XFX, MSI, Gigabyte, ASUS...). Regarding retailers, some big names don't have the best reputation, so my advice is to Google reviews for every shop before buying. Also, if you decide to go with the XFX power supply, look for shops that offer a solid 5-year warranty here in the US—places like Best Buy or Micro Center are usually reliable bets.
A benchmark for what? They basically just padded their lineup with models that have an extra 100MHz i5-4440-3.10GHz, i5-4460-3.20 and so on...
I assume this is what you're looking for, tested with a dedicated GPU. The differences are negligible (for instance, 112.7 vs 113fps), all because of that extra 100MHz boost.
The refreshes have been out for a few days now (though the K versions aren't available yet), and it looks like the motherboards are already hitting the shelves. These refreshes apply to the older boards as well.
But honestly, it doesn't matter much; he should just go with whatever is cheaper. There's no point in him swapping an Intel Core i7-4770K for a Broadwell i7 anyway. When you're buying the flagship product, there really isn't much room left for an upgrade.