Honestly, if you're pairing an Intel Core i9 with an NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970, you really shouldn't settle for just that EVGA 450W unit. You could probably push it to 400W without much trouble, but since this specific model only delivers 408W on the 12V rail, things are going to get pretty stressed under a full load. I’m honestly not sure how long it would hold up running at those levels...
What kind of power supply are you running? (Model name?)
Basically, I’d suggest looking for an ATI Radeon HD 5570, an HD 6670, an HD 7730, an HD 5750, or even a 6750. If you can snag an NVIDIA GTX 650 or an AMD Radeon HD 7750 within your budget, go for it. Just make sure they have GDDR5 memory—it's significantly faster. Honestly, those are pretty much the upper limits you should aim for given the CPU you're working with.
Check out this guy who has a similar CPU setup to yours; he has some good videos posted.
No, that card is absolute garbage for what you're paying
Trust me, if you're looking for something new, nothing less than an Radeon R7 250 DDR5 is worth your money. You're better off saving up. The price gap is tiny, but the jump in performance is massive
Lawrence Ortiz6 said:I picked up a VTX R9 280X yesterday. Looking at my performance graphs—Battlefield 4 runs on Ultra settings constantly staying above 120 FPS. No more lag whatsoever...
👍
So it really is the 280X model for $500 rather than just a standard R9 280 (the X-edition)? Where did you pick it up?
1 x AOC I2269VWM, IPS monitor 21.5" Wide, WLED, 1920x1080@60 Hz 1 x AMD Trinity Athlon II X4 750, 3.40GHz 4 cores 1 x Asrock FM2A88M EXTREME4+, FM2, FM2+, AMD A88X (Bolton-D4), DDR3 1 x Sapphire R7 260X 1GB GDDR5 OC, 1GB GDDR5 128bit, 28nm 1 x DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Kingston, 1600MHz, CL11, Value 1 x HDD WD 1TB, Caviar Blue 10EZEX, 1000 GB, SATA3, 64 MB, 3.5", 7200 RPM 1 x Samsung SH-224DB sat Bulk Black, SATA 1 x Thermaltake Contac 21, 775, AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+, FM1, 1155, 1156 1 x XFX Core edition 80 450W PSU - EasyRail technology 1 x Zalman ZM-T1 PLUS micro tower case. 189(W) x 427.5(H) x 364(D)mm
$1404 Free assembly and shipping from Micro Center if needed
Basically, those games are incredibly low-spec by today's standards. Even a much cheaper PC could handle them easily, so there is absolutely no reason to drop $600 on that (unless they want to play modern AAA titles or next-gen games). This build listed above is a very solid value—especially regarding the CPU and GPU—and even allows for some overclocking if desired. They should definitely opt for a monitor with an IPS or PLS panel; you can find them even for under $333 (like this one)
If you’ve played games at all, don't settle for anything subpar—especially since prices have dropped across the board lately.
This is a solid pick (comparable to an NVIDIA GTX 670), or you could go with an NVIDIA card in that same bracket like thegtx 750. The first one pulls about 100W, whereas the NVIDIA option sits around 50-60W. Both are incredibly cost-effective; when looking at budget models, you actually get more bang for your buck because the price drops faster than the performance does.
By the way, if you're just doing 2D CAD work, your graphics card won't matter much. However, for video conversion or working within the Adobe suite, NVIDIA's CUDA technology can provide a nice little boost depending on which software you're running.
hiddencyclist31 said:Thanks. Before I started reading through these threads, I had no idea power supplies could be such a headache. You think 500W is just 500W, right?......😕 I definitely learned something new today. Best,
Look, if it's some cheap knock-off from overseas, that "500W" rating is nothing more than a sticker on a box.🙂 As soon as you see a unit claiming "500-600W" for $100--$67 or 450W for $350--$133 and you can't remember the brand, you can bet something is off. Open up the case and check the PSU label for the specific model name. There might be a decent one in there.
Lawrence Ortiz6 said:So, would you rather go with an EVGA GTX 970 for $1$167, instead of an R9 270X 4GB for $1$200?
The 280X is significantly more powerful. The catch is that VTX is generally known for lower build quality, and a 270X at that price point would likely come with better cooling—like a Gigabyte Windforce model. Just make sure to ask the shop if it's actually an X-edition 280X and not just a standard 280.
vividjackal14 said:I'm new to this forum. Is there a specific section dedicated to software issues?
Do you have a SATA interface on that hard drive? (you should be able to check via Speccy) What power supply unit are you running? (you'll need to pop the side panel off the case to read the label)
Alright then, go ahead and pick whichever one you want. If you decide on the NVIDIA GTX 970, you'll definitely see some gains from overclocking—just make sure to grab an aftermarket cooler if you don't already have one (something like a Cooler Master 212 evo) and crank it up. Honestly, it might be smarter to skip those overpriced 270X cards; for nearly the same price, you could snag an R9 280 (or maybe even an R9 280X).
EDIT
And what kind of power supply are we talking about here? An NVIDIA GTX 970 isn't exactly going to run on some cheap, no-name junk or a low-end unit from a brand like generic off-brand retailers.
Regarding the graphics card, you really need to verify if it’s actually a 280X or just a standard 280. There’s some conflicting info out there. If it turns out to be the base 280, I’d suggest going with the Sapphire model; personally, I'd steer clear of the VTX. However, if it truly is a 280X, then that's a fantastic deal. Now, here is the thing: if you're playing Battlefield 4 MP with an i5-750, buying a 280 or even a 280X doesn't make much sense. You're going to run into a massive bottleneck. Even a newer entry-level locked i5, like a 2400 or a 3350p, would struggle. Look, head over to Bug—there's a whole thread dedicated to GPU bottlenecking. It's full of enthusiasts who are obsessed with Battlefield 3, Battlefield 4 MP, and running benchmark tests, but they can give you the exact percentages you can expect. In my opinion, if you're stuck on the LGA 1156 platform, upgrading for this specific game isn't worth your money.
Beyond the fact that your CPU won't even be able to utilize the full potential, you're looking at a serious bottleneck if you're running a generic, off-brand power supply. Between a high-draw CPU and a GPU demanding its own dedicated power rail, things can get dicey. For context, the 4670 pulls about 70W TDP, the 7770 sits at 80W, and the 250X is rated at 95W. If you want to avoid swapping out your PSU entirely, you could potentially opt for a 250 (roughly 50-60W). While that CPU isn't the perfect match for it during more intensive gaming sessions, you should still see a noticeable performance bump and hit a much more realistic ceiling for your setup. Honestly, though? Your best bet is to either save up for a complete platform overhaul or just upgrade everything at once.
EDIT Check out the videos from this creator; they use a CPU very similar to yours (just slightly beefier)
Not even by accident 🤣 It’s way too expensive and honestly underwhelming for the price tag. I've talked to folks who have swapped out their xy TT cases and run various PC shops, and the consensus is clear: every single TT case is overpriced when you consider the actual build quality versus what you get. In my opinion, the sweet spot for value is staying under $110—and even then, only if you really have the cash to burn for something unique. Take the Fractal Define R4 (review), for instance, or maybe a Corsair 330R. Those actually offer decent sound dampening, solid features, and high-end construction. They sport a clean, minimalist aesthetic, whereas it looks like you're leaning toward something more angular and aggressive, so I'm not quite sure what to suggest. Personally, I find those flashy designs ugly, but hey, it's your call. Just don't overspend; those types of cases definitely aren't a "best buy" . Maybe check out this full tower http://www.futura-it.com/catalog/comp...c3191-06c2222/ or perhaps look into those LC Power or NZXT wonders from the link to get a better idea
The case is solid, though I did mention one drawback earlier. As long as you aren't planning on installing a high-end graphics card longer than 29 cm, you should be fine. That said, I'm assuming that by the next generation, you'll likely be looking at something in the ballpark of an R9 290 or a GTX 780 for a more reasonable price—it's just hard to predict exactly how long those cards will be.
That works. You could potentially grab some cheaper RAM (though prices aren't crazy right now), but keep in mind that if you pair them with your current sticks, they’ll just default to the slower speed anyway. Besides, raw speed doesn't really matter in practice unless you're relying on integrated graphics. Also, I might reconsider the case. I'd suggest going with something standard-sized without those "slats" over the hard drive bays; that way, you'll actually have room to fit longer graphics cards down the road if you need to upgrade. Look into something like a Zalman Z3, Z5, or maybe a higher-end Corsair Carbide 200R or a Fractal 3000, where you can easily pop out the top drive cage if it gets in the way.
Regarding overclocking, you should be fine if you stick with Ivy Bridge. If you decide to go with a Haswell i7, pushing past 4.2 GHz might become a real headache with temperatures. I actually talked to someone using a 4770K paired with an Ereboss who said 4.2 was their absolute ceiling. It really comes down to the silicon lottery with each specific processor.