I’m honestly on the fence about whether it’s sharp enough for high-precision visual work, especially if you’re doing this professionally
It’s essentially the same situation as what Bryan Adams6 mentioned earlier; the only difference is we're looking at a 21:9 aspect ratio instead of 16:9. Since those extra pixels are only added to the width, it’s effectively the exact same thing—just different proportions
For those specific screen sizes, you'll want to go with 1440p resolution (which is 2560x1440 for a 27" 16:9 monitor, or 3440x1440 for a 34" 21:9 monitor)
Also, if you need to stick to just one retailer, I'd suggest Best Buy, particularly if you're in a rush. It's not that they can't get orders out the door, but they can be a massive headache if anything goes sideways—think returns, shipping errors, or getting your money back
It isn't set in stone; what looks fine to one person might be a dealbreaker for someone else. Your best bet is to head down to a Best Buy or a similar showroom where they have 27" FHD monitors on display so you can judge for yourself. If you stay more than about two feet back, you can probably get away with
wiredotter14 said:It all boils down to what their actual goal is.
If they're just doing some casual video editing that takes an hour or two—nothing professional where time equals money—and high gaming FPS is the priority, then the 8600K is the better move since it's objectively stronger for gaming.
On the flip side, a 2700X can slash rendering times compared to an i5, which could mean saving hours on larger projects. Of course, that depends entirely on which specific software they're running.
I’d also consider the monitor setup. If they're aiming for high resolution, the i5 and Ryzen will basically perform identically; however, if they want to push 120Hz+, the i5 wins out.
Conversely, for streaming, Ryzen is significantly better than the i5.
Regarding cooling, that Corsair performs similarly to high-end air coolers, though it'll likely be louder (those fans are probably spinning north of 1500RPM). Liquid cooling adds a "sexy factor," sure, but in 99% of cases, an AIO isn't any better than air cooling. Custom loops are a whole different beast, but that's an intense and expensive hobby.
If that's the mindset, then the 1600x is the true "future best buy" for $417. It isn't much worse for productivity tasks (let's not get too nitpicky), yet it's roughly 80% cheaper. Gaming performance will feel virtually identical if they plan on pairing it with an rtx 2070, because at most, that card will beat a gtx 1080, and it'll definitely trail a 1080Ti. Keep in mind that you need a very specific scenario to even notice a difference between top-tier CPUs in gaming—we're talking 1080p resolution at 144Hz or 240Hz paired with a gtx 1080Ti (or an rtx 2080/2080Ti), and even then, not every game qualifies. Most people wouldn't even pair those GPUs with a 1080p monitor anyway. Even in a 1080p setup, most users wouldn't actually feel the difference without running benchmarks and an FPS counter.
For most people, a 27" screen isn't the sweet spot for 1080p if you're sitting close—say, about 20 inches away—because you start losing that crisp image clarity
As for the 1ms versus 4ms debate, you honestly won't feel the difference. It’s mostly marketing fluff and gimmicks; those numbers are basically arbitrary anyway. You might notice response times on a 144Hz monitor, but that's not what we're looking at here. Even then, you should actually test them yourself instead of just blindly trusting the specs printed on the box
If you are dead set on going with a 27" 1080p setup, I’d suggest checking this out instead
It has solid reviews, runs at 75Hz, and features G-Sync
Ryan Gonzalez4 said:Personally, I’m incredibly happy with it—it's a closed loop, so there is zero maintenance required with my Corsair setup. You just can't compare it to air cooling; sure, it costs more, but it definitely provides better thermal performance. And hey, if someone doesn't mind dropping $150-$200 on something like this, it looks sexy as fuck having that side window 😒 😁
If we are talking about the H80, it’s nothing special. Honestly, an air cooler in the $30-40 range will be cooler and quieter (think along the lines of a Noctua or a Thermalright Macho). Don't expect to push 4.9GHz to 5GHz and still maintain decent temperatures with that unit.
Furthermore, I wouldn't go betting on the quality of Corsair's liquid coolers, as plenty of people complain about them (clogged tubes, loud fans, noisy pumps, etc.). To be blunt, it's a pain in the ass and just isn't a great value compared to a top-tier air cooler.
That’s a fair market price if you actually want to move it. Sure, you can try to ask for more, but then you have to consider how much time you're willing to waste waiting for a buyer who might never show up.
It's common sense: people always demand crazy amounts for junk, but they never actually close the deal. If you price something realistically, it sells fast and doesn't just sit there gathering dust on Craigslist.
"Brand memory" isn't actually a thing—it’s not a technical standard or even a recognized industry term. What matters is the voltage. RAM modules with an "L" designation run at a lower voltage; your best bet is to find a stick that matches the specific technical specs of your current setup. I'm not necessarily saying you need the exact same brand, just something with nearly identical electrical characteristics. If you have "L" RAM, stick with "L." If not, don't try to force it.
Honestly, the price gap is just way too wide when you consider you're only getting a tiny percentage increase in performance. You're much better off putting that extra cash toward an additional 8GB of RAM rather.
To get R5 1600X + a decent cooler, or even just get R5 1600 (with the cooler included) for under $433, is hands down the best value you can find among all processors at today's prices.
Exactly, Xeon processors. You can grab one of these with free shipping and it won't even cost you $333. Plus, you don't even need to bother with a BIOS update—these Xeons use the exact same socket as an i7 4770 or a 4790. The only real differences are that some lack integrated graphics, they might clock a few hundred MHz higher or lower, and they support ECC memory alongside standard RAM.
Regarding the GPU, Megan Moore60—look for the longest warranty possible. Don't settle for just one year if you can snag two or more. With that in mind, this Gigabyte Gaming G1 model makes the most sense.
Sure, if you can snag an i7 for a steal (personally, I wouldn't go over $90-$333), and then flip your current one for $167, it’s actually a decent little upgrade.
The problem is that people on Craigslist aren't being realistic; they’re either clueless or just refusing to accept reality (that a quad-core chip which was high-end not that long ago is now strictly entry-level mainstream). For a while, a processor with relatively similar specs, like the Ryzen 1400, was selling for around $300, yet these folks are asking two whole stacks for their i7s on a socket that died ages ago (the 1151 platform is totally dead).
That might be a bit much, if you ask me. Realistically, I’d say $333 max if you're looking to actually move it. You have to look at this from a buyer's perspective—for $567, someone could just pick up a Ryzen 5 1300 (which is a comparable CPU), a solid B350 motherboard, and 8GB of DDR4, all brand new with a full warranty . To be blunt, the CPU is worth about $167, the motherboard is $300, and the RAM is just some pocket change . In my experience, trying to sell a complete PC is always a much tougher sell than parting out the individual components
The Uzi components are compatible, so upgrading you for free shouldn't be an issue, though I’d definitely double-check with them just to be safe—even if the answer is almost certainly yes.
We were actually discussing the 1600X, which doesn't come with a cooler, unlike the standard 1600...
The performance gap between those two GPUs is roughly 10-15% in scenarios where memory capacity isn't the bottleneck. However, if you're feeling adventurous and want to buy the graphics card separately, you could order this instead. That one is priced at $255 (which would bring your $646 total to about $295 once you factor in standard shipping and US sales tax). It'll just take a little while to arrive .
