You can find all that data in the reviews click (check out those game benchmarks). I’m specifically referring to this exact model click, click. My point is, I'm questioning whether you could actually squeeze out the full potential of an NVIDIA GTX 1070 Ti in every single new release.
I always make sure to link the best deals from reputable retailers.
The power supply should be fine. As far as I can see, I'd go with this over this one . Look, you could always grab a GTX 1070Ti (the GTX 1070 is priced too close right now, plus those models come with a 2-year warranty) if you're planning to upgrade the CPU (maybe an Intel Core i7 2600K with some overclocking or an Intel Core i7 3770K with OC) or just swap out the entire platform (CPU, motherboard, RAM). Otherwise, you're going to run into a bit of a bottleneck with a GTX 1070 in more demanding titles, though it won't be anything crazy—it doesn't mean games won't still run smoothly, for example, this one .
That monitor hits 144Hz regardless of which GPU you're running. Right now, G-Sync is an option specifically for Intel cards, but it won't interfere with your Nvidia setup—you just won't be able to enable it. Honestly, just check back in two months when you're actually ready to buy; market availability and pricing fluctuate constantly.
The guys who have really dug into the specs say that these budget TN 144Hz panels tend to have subpar image quality. If you're looking at that category, the ASUS ROG Swift and the 24GM79G are widely considered the top-tier choices among them.
If you’re planning to tackle the heavy hitters—titles like Assassin's Creed Origins, for instance—I wouldn't recommend going any higher than a GTX 1060 6GB or an RX 580 8GB. Your motherboard is compatible with all GPU options. Ideally, look for a dual-fan model that comes with a three-year warranty. You just need to provide us with the full model name of your power supply. You'll have to check your receipt, look at the box, or simply open up the case and read the label on the unit itself.
You should be able to get anywhere from $300 to $133 for yours without any trouble at all.
You're better off with the GTX 1030. Its main rival is the RX 550, but in my opinion, the GTX 1030 comes out slightly ahead in performance while being easier on your wallet too.
It’s essentially the same thing, though if I were in your shoes, I’d personally opt for the standard model over the low profile one—you get a much better heatsink. That said, it doesn't really matter since this isn't exactly a high-heat GPU; you could even get away with a passively cooled version. Just make sure to double-check if it still carries that 3-year warranty
Eric Taylor55 said:I just fired up the computer after a long time, and the screen was flickering just like before (I think that's what caused the crashes)... it hasn't crashed yet, but I haven't actually done anything besides checking the properties. I have no idea where to find the power supply specs... So, here is my current setup:
Intel Pentium 4 CPU 3.00GHz 2 GB RAM Radeon X550 / X700 Series
I'm not sure what parts are worth keeping or if the issue is strictly with the graphics card. Also, the PC is running pretty loud, so that probably needs addressing too...
Honestly, your best bet is to just overhaul the whole thing. You might want to check whether your hard drive uses SATA or IDE first—click
If it's SATA, you can keep it, though I'd bet the capacity is tiny (maybe 80 or 160GB max) if it's from that era.
You could potentially reuse the case and the power supply, provided they are still functioning properly.
A build like this would be a massive upgrade—g4560, H110, 4GB DDR4, 120GB SSD. The integrated graphics on the processor alone would outperform that old card by a mile.
Not every processor is compatible with every motherboard. To help you out, we’re going to need a lot more specifics—what exact motherboard model are you running, which power supply are you using, how much RAM is installed, and so on.
Also, regarding those crashes: we need to determine if the culprit is software-related, a hardware failure, or if the hardware is simply underpowered for the task at hand...
Even those recommended GPUs won't fully utilize that CPU, but let's be honest—the GPU you're currently running is bottom-of-the-barrel. If you're looking at something brand new with ovako, you'd see a massive jump in performance. You still won't be hitting a rock-solid 60 FPS minimum, but it would actually be playable. Adding more RAM wouldn't hurt either, but that's just extra fluff; honestly, it's probably not worth sinking too much cash into that PC . If you want to look at the used market, check out a GTX 750, 750Ti, HD7790, R7 260X, 260, or 360, etc. You shouldn't pay more than $133 max for those. If your current power supply is total junk, you're better off grabbing the one linked above .
Look, if the guy has a power supply capable of handling an R9 290 and a CPU beefy enough to keep up—think maybe an i5 Sandy Bridge, an FX 6300, or even better—then you should just hand him the GPU and grab the GTX 1070 for yourself. Alternatively, you could take his power supply and give him yours to run that R9 290, since the GTX 1070 is much more efficient with power consumption.
Ethan Phillips60 said:Hey everyone, I'm looking into upgrading my CPU and motherboard, and I'd love to get some feedback on my plan. My current setup:
none none 16GB HyperX DDR3 none none none An OCZ Vertex 120GB SSD and a 500GB HDD
I'm planning to swap out the motherboard, processor, and RAM. My budget is around $3,000–$4,000...
What’s the primary use for this PC? If it's strictly for gaming, just upgrade the GPU. For instance, you could grab something like a high-end card for quad-core gaming—prices are dropping steadily anyway—since your current rig still has plenty of life left in it.
EDIT
Ah, I see this is for your brother, but the intended use is still the most important factor.
Shipping costs can really bite sometimes, especially when you're ordering heavy gear like a PC case or a monitor. For smaller stuff, it’s not quite as bad, though still a bit pricier than what we're used to back home. One major perk of buying from local US retailers is the free assembly service if you need help putting a build together, plus those extended warranties you can grab directly through the shop—we're talking 5, 7, or even 10 years. Overseas, it usually just boils down to the standard 2 years. Sure, certain individual components might carry longer manufacturer warranties, but you have to handle all that yourself rather than going through the retailer.
Since your laptop is brand new and definitely wasn't cheap, you really should have considered taking it to an authorized service center. I'm not saying they'll automatically cover it under warranty, but at least let the pros take a look and see what's going on.
As for the keyboard, there’s a chance the ribbon cable connecting it just got a bit damp—it happens, and it isn't always a disaster. However, if some amateur technician opens up the chassis (assuming they haven't already), you're going to void your warranty instantly.
I wouldn't consider myself an expert when it comes to recommending headsets—that's really not my specialty—but if you're looking at edigital, I'd suggest thinking twice. They have a pretty rough reputation regarding customer service and handling returns. If you find a specific model you actually like, just drop the name over at Slickdeals, and people there can help you hunt down the best price available.
Admittedly, it’s just a single-fan ITX model. Even if you go with a dual-fan setup for three years, you'll still need to run through $867, but either way, it's a massive step up from what we were dealing with before.