If you're hunting for the most budget-friendly 1080Ti featuring an aftermarket cooler, this one is your best bet. Just make sure your top priority is securing at least a 3-year warranty.
Look, pairing a 1080Ti with an H81 motherboard might seem a bit eccentric, but from a purely technical standpoint, you aren't hitting any real roadblocks. The GPU won't mind the setup, and you've got enough RAM to handle things. If you're aiming for 4K gaming, though, you'll need something more substantial—maybe a 1080Ti at most; honestly, even an Atlas doesn't make much sense when compared to its performance.
I'll admit I missed the mark on the power supply, but if we're talking upgrades, I’d focus on the motherboard, RAM, and the case (provided it's a solid one). The bottom line hasn't changed: let that 1080 Ti scream, maybe grab a 4K monitor, and potentially bump up to 16GB of RAM. Personally, though, I’d hold off for a bit to see if the Vega cards actually perform well. If they turn out to be decent, I’d go for a 1440p IPS FreeSync monitor, whether that's in 16:9 or 21:9 aspect ratio.
Why would you bother swapping out your motherboard and RAM if everything is working perfectly fine? An Intel Core i5-4460 s1150 Gigabyte GA-Z270x-Gaming8 DDR4 Asus rog GeForce GTX 1080 ti Strix gaming Trident Z won't fit an 1151 socket, nor will it work with DDR4 RAM.
What kind of power supply and case are you currently running? It would be best if you could list your entire current setup along with your total upgrade budget. Honestly, there's a good chance you might just need a new monitor and a fresh GPU.
The Intel Core i5-7400 is decent if you're strictly focused on gaming, but looking at the big picture, the Ryzen 5 1400 offered here is the superior value. That i5 has lower clock speeds and is completely locked. Since all Ryzen chips are unlocked, you can overclock the R5—even with a basic Wraith Stealth cooler—to the point where it actually beats the Intel chip in single-core Cinebench tests, effectively neutralizing its IPC advantage. When you factor in the better multi-threading thanks to SMT, plus a much more future-proof platform with an easier upgrade path to multi-core processors compared to limited quad-cores, it’s clearly the smarter buy.
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The only potential edge for the i5 is that you can pair it with some budget motherboards in the $40-$$150 range, but even if A320 boards for the AM4 socket were available, it would be a waste to take an unlocked CPU and stick it on a basic board instead of pairing it with a B350 motherboard.
You can actively monitor the clock speed through Task Manager by hitting ctrl + shift + esc. If you don't want to hover over that window constantly, you can rely on hardware info tools to log the minimum, maximum, and average speeds. Just a heads-up: make sure to disable any "cool and quiet" settings in your BIOS first. Otherwise, those power-saving modes might log an 800MHz idle state as your baseline, which completely ruins your data when you're trying to diagnose thermal throttling.
A second option while you're actually gaming is to fire up MSI Afterburner. If you head into the hardware monitoring section, you can enable clock speed tracking there—since MSI Afterburner uses RivaTuner for its monitoring overlay, it’ll show up right on your screen.
Many stress testing utilities also come with built-in graphing tools specifically designed to track clock speeds in real-time, such as OCCT.
If everything was running smoothly before and suddenly isn't, don't assume something broke on its own. It usually boils down to one of three things: you either applied too much or too little thermal paste, the mounting pressure is uneven, or there's an actual defect with the cooler itself—like a faulty base or a bad heatpipe—just like fadedorca66 mentioned.
Kimberly Gomez34 says Intel recommends up to 1.45v, not 1.35v. That's incorrect info.
When it comes to overclocking, almost any Ryzen chip can hit 3.9GHz, so that’s pretty much standard. For a prime example of what these chips can do, look at Sn4k3 over on the hardware forums; his 1600X is pulling 4030-4070MHz at just 1.308v (depending on which stress test you run). He’s even hitting 4.1GHz at roughly 1.355 - 1.36v, which is incredibly efficient for those speeds. Once he gets his water cooling bracket installed, he'll likely push for 4.2GHz. Right now, he's just running it on a basic air cooler.😁
Regardless, the situation with Kimberly Gomez34 is tricky because you already have a solid rig. A meaningful upgrade is going to be a massive hit to your wallet... It's an expensive game to play. Like smartic mentioned, it might be smarter to stick with your current CPU and instead focus your budget on a high-quality monitor or hunting for a deal on an RTX 3080 or maybe some Radeon cards.
Just a heads-up: if you're aiming for that 4.8-5GHz sweet spot with an Intel Core i7-7700K, you're looking at pairing it with a Z270 motherboard and a high-end cooler. That setup is going to cost you roughly double what you'd spend on a Ryzen 5 1600 paired with a B350 board and a budget cooler—especially since the Ryzen 5 1600 typically averages around 3.9-4GHz anyway.
It isn't worth much, honestly—you'd basically be downgrading from what you have now. Do you have a specific budget in mind? Also, whereabouts in the States are you located?
Well, from what I can see, you have integrated graphics on that motherboard. Try plugging your monitor directly into the motherboard video outputs, but make sure to check your BIOS first to ensure the onboard GPU is actually enabled. That said, if the image looks glitched out even before you reach the macOS desktop, you're likely looking at a faulty GPU.
If the GPU is indeed the culprit, you can go ahead with the parts you mentioned. Everything should be compatible.
If you plan on gaming, I’d also suggest adding another 4GB of RAM and picking up an aftermarket CPU cooler if you don't already have one.
I know even that YouTuber Joker mentioned he avoids using GPU acceleration with his GeForce GTX 1080 in Adobe Premiere because of the issues he runs into.
BTW guys, it looks like there was an MSI gaming GTX 1060 4GB at Best Buy for $467 on sale. Good grief! 😲 Of course, they only had a few units left before they sold out instantly.
Roger Walker85
Keep your eyes peeled and try to snag a Radeon on sale, or just wait for their rebranded GTX 1060 series.
Word is $517 is having some issues with the shipping company . But switching gears to GPUs, I heard Futura is already talking about the GTX 1060 . http://forum.pcekspert.com/showthrea...95#post3047295
In my view, the GTX 1070 isn't overkill for 1080p at all, though I do agree that anything higher than that feels unnecessary at this resolution unless you're running a 120Hz or 144Hz monitor. The only real downside is the significant price gap when compared to a lower-tier GPU like the RX 480 8 GB.
Personally, I’d rather hang onto this GTX 1070 and build the rest of the rig around a Ryzen 5 1600. In my view, the CPU offers much better value, and he might even have some cash left over to upgrade other components. To be honest, he’s already blown past his $67 budget.
The reality is that by the time the Ryzen 5 1600 arrives, we'll likely see rebranded RX 480 cards hitting the market too, which might lead to a great deal since prices should drop. It’s probably worth waiting at least two weeks.
Technically, if we switched to a Ryzen 5 1400 and scrapped the SSD entirely, keeping everything else constant...
That would bring the CPU down by about -$333, maybe shave another 100- off the motherboard, $67 which means we're looking at $267 total savings plus nearly $267 just by cutting the SSD. That puts us at $533. As for the GPU, this RX 480 is slightly underperforming compared to what you'd get for $733; specifically, you could probably snag a GTX 1070 for around $1267 (though I'm not sure which Best Buy or Micro Center would have all those parts in stock right now)