Ideally, you'd look at a Radeon HD 7750, an HD 7770, or maybe a GeForce GTX 650. Honestly, moving down to those 240 cards would be a performance downgrade, even if they are DX11 compatible and much more power-efficient.
Your CPU isn't going to just die on you. The real headache is if the motherboard gives out; finding a direct replacement for those can be a nightmare. But honestly, it doesn't have to come to that. If it does, just sell the processor, swap out the whole platform, and call it a day.
What’s the worst that happens? He sells the CPU for maybe fifty bucks and calls it a day. There isn't much to lose on an old processor like that—it's basically worth peanuts at this point anyway.
Susan Garcia5
Is it a hyperthreaded dual-core or an actual quad-core?
I find the third one lacks stylistic freshness; the songs feel less original, less imaginative, and just don't grab you as much.
The first one hits you like a total cultural shock—it's something entirely new—while the second feels like an evolution of that initial spark. It’s distinct enough to avoid being a mere carbon copy, yet there’s still a clear common thread connecting them.
Either your webcam died or your Windows 10 is acting up (it seems like a recurring issue with Windows 10 lately, especially following those massive updates or if you're running an upgraded version)
If it’s actually broken, nobody is going to bother repairing a webcam for you; you can just grab a new one for about $10
Jeffrey Allen92 said:What exactly am I supposed to know here? I did a clean install just last month—did everything by the book, wiped the OS, installed all the drivers, and it worked perfectly. Now, I’m following the exact same process on the same machine, and it’s completely broken. Their drivers are a total mess. They released some hotfix specifically for discrete graphics, which basically leaves those of us using APUs out in the cold until they actually decide to fix their act. Honestly, if we were dealing with Intel and NVIDIA like we have been for the last thirty years, we wouldn't be dealing with this kind of nonsense in our wildest dreams.
That's a nice fairy tale. Considering the first consumer NVIDIA card didn't even hit the market until 1999. 😬
Jeffrey Allen92 said:Look, I paid a premium for my Crosshair II formula, probably around $600 if I recall correctly... and my processor back then was sitting at about $500, some quad-core Phenom... how does Intel release a Celeron for $100 and expect it to actually perform decently?
Let's look at the facts: myself (along with many others) owned a ton of Phenom II processors and never ran into any issues. They offered great value and were surprisingly future-proof. Besides, what kind of "problem" can a CPU actually have? It’s arguably the most perfect and least failure-prone component in a build. Any issues usually stem from the motherboard it's plugged into or insufficient cooling.
I think I might have pinpointed what’s going on with you. I dealt with something remarkably similar on my niece's Dell Inspiron. It turned out she needed a BIOS update, and once that was finished, it gave her the option to toggle between UEFI and Legacy mode. After that, it would finally let her boot from a USB or a disc—it was incredibly frustrating...
If you're looking at CPU-Z, those 400MHz figures actually represent an 800MHz DDR2 clock speed (since DDR stands for double data rate), which explains why half the info in CPU-Z looks weird. Generally speaking, you can mix and match different RAM speeds—provided they are the same type—but the system will simply default to the speed of the slowest stick. Honestly, you won't even notice the performance difference. Alternatively, you could try bumping up the frequency of that slower module by one notch, though I'm not sure which specific sticks might resist that.
That said, there is always a chance that certain modules just refuse to play nice together. You can't predict that based on specs alone; it’s purely a matter of whether the hardware decides to be difficult or not.
Quick update. It looks like those guys finally started receiving their GTX 1060s for $490, though there's no telling if the second batch of orders will arrive quite as smoothly.
People who were eyeing up the GTX 1060 Strix are saying the price was absolute nonsense, with some links asking for two GPUs worth of cash for just one. It stayed at that ridiculous price point for days before it finally sold out, only to pop back up again at the exact same markup...
Your best bet is to pop the case open and check the label for the specific model number.
Just to clarify, I was referring to this particular GPU. There isn't a more powerful low-profile option out there, but I wouldn't dream of installing it unless your power supply can deliver at least 15A or more on the +12V rail.
I doubt they’ll turn you down—though thinking you're in the clear is a rookie mistake—but you definitely need a solid plan for where that money is going. You might want to look into a decent case and a reliable power supply 😬 . That said, if your CPU isn't exactly a power hog, those 250W might actually handle a 750Ti (just make sure to double-check the specific model specs)
Honestly, I think you're at the mercy of the seller's good intentions here. If this had been an online transaction, we’d be looking at a completely different scenario. That said, there are two things working in your favor:
- You mentioned they haven't even been used or unboxed yet. - They’ll likely cave if you suggest swapping them for something else at the same price point. So, besides just hunting for a low-profile GPU, start thinking about what else would be a smart trade.😬
By the way, Best Buy used to carry a low-profile 750Ti for around $300
If I were building a PC in your budget range, I’d personally go with either an RM550x or an RM650x (roughly $100 to $115) Regarding wattage, 550W is actually more than enough for you. An i7-6700 paired with an RTX 3070 doesn't pull nearly that much power.
They use the exact same power supplies; the only difference is this one includes a USB cable so you can monitor voltages and other metrics via software, plus a dedicated fan test button. Honestly, in my opinion, those extra features don't justify the price jump.
For what it's worth, I've been running this RM550x for about six weeks now. The fan spins up for just a few seconds during boot and then stays completely silent once things get going (provided the load stays under 225W). It feels like the unit runs slightly warmer because of that passive cooling mode, whereas with an EVGA G2, you actually have the option to choose between semi-passive operation or keeping the fan running constantly. On a brighter note, Corsair bumped their warranty from 7 years up to 10.click