This GT 740 DDR5 is actually a pretty solid deal for the price—assuming you're happy with the performance levels, like if you're just looking to breathe some life into an older PC.
Corpse-eater was originally just looking for a gaming rig, then later tossed in virtualization and streaming requirements on the fly...
Bottom line: I think this Xeon is a massive opportunity while they still have stock in the local shops—they've got branches out in places like Chicago and NYC too. Other i7 variations are going to run nearly a third more expensive. You can take those savings from the CPU and put them toward a Samsung 850 EVO 250GB plus
Grab 16GB of DDR3 and a motherboard like this, this or this and you'll be golden. For a cooler, go with this one. You might even snag a 3% discount if you mention your profile from the US tech forums
It’s probably best not to blow it up. That forum user was actually spot on about how quickly these things die. It failed on him (I'm not sure if he mentioned anyone else), and it happened to a buddy of mine after just a few months—especially once you factor in those depressing threads with 20+ angry comments over on Newegg... Sure, it isn't a massive sample size, but for such a small group, it's a pretty bad sign. 😁 To be fair, I don't know if the same thing applies to the 120GB models. There are plenty of other budget SSDs out there, like Adata SP550 or various SanDisk drives where many people even carry a 5-year warranty.
It’s similar to the setup wiredotter14 put together. If your current graphics card is still holding its own, you might honestly just want to wait for the new releases this summer. There probably won't be much in the budget segment—say, around $220—right out of the gate. Even if something does drop, we might not see a massive leap in price-to-performance ratios. Honestly, if your current rig is doing the job, you've got nothing to lose by waiting, especially since those games you mentioned aren't exactly heavy hitters.
If you were to pick up an Intel Core i5-6500 from UziShop, you could pair it with a budget-friendly option like the MSI H110M PRO-VD, or if you want to step things up, go for the pricier MSI Mortar + MSI Interceptor bundle.
Seagate 1 TB HDD Barracuda, SATA III, 1000 GB You could go with two sticks of Kingston HyperX Fury 4GB DDR4 2400MHz CL15 DIMM—provided you pick up a motherboard with four slots—or... If you opt for two slots, you'll be looking at Crucial DDR4 8GB (1x8GB) 2133MHz CL15.
shadowotter54 said:Good evening, everyone. I haven't really kept up with GPU development for several years now, so I could use some guidance. I'm building a PC to hook up to a TV via HDMI for Full HD resolution—that would be my only "monitor." Beyond watching movies, I also want to get some gaming in. What would you recommend in the $1,000 range and in the $500 range? Thanks.
What specific power supply model are you running? Also, what CPU are you using?
Well, that certainly narrows things down. For instance, this one comes with a decent dedicated GPU—which I know isn't your top priority, but it definitely helps with gaming or running stuff like Blender—versus this option that relies on integrated graphics but packs 8GB of RAM.
That’s not really what we’re discussing here, so let me pose my own question instead. How large of a screen are we talking about, and will you be needing Windows or other software?
+ you get a slightly better IPC, plus there's thermal paste between the IHS and the actual die—which means Sandy Bridge runs a bit cooler and more efficiently.
Have you run any tests on the HDD? Or checked the RAM with MemTest86?
If those don't fix the issue, I think instead of hunting for hardware culprits, you’d be better off just reinstalling the OS and the software entirely. Before you go that route, though, maybe try a complete driver wipe using Driver Sweeper (especially if you had Nvidia drivers installed previously on this OS), then perform a totally fresh driver installation.
Chris Robinson25 - Honestly, picking up that 120GB Samsung SSD feels like a waste of money. You can usually grab a 240GB or 256GB drive for just a tiny bit more cash, and some of those even come with a 5-year warranty.
It really depends on the specific model, so take a look at these click (they actually pull even more power than you'd think). The confusion usually stems from people looking at the TDP—which measures heat dissipation—and assuming it’s the exact same thing as actual power draw. Since they both use watts as the unit, it trips people up. For instance, a GTX 1080 might have a TDP of 145W, but the actual power consumption can swing anywhere from 165W to 190W—link, link (official specs), or link (this isn't the absolute "peak" table showing even higher numbers, but in my opinion, this is a much more realistic representation)
Bottom line: either PSU will handle it just fine. I'd go with this one. It's a solid value, features a dual-fan setup, and comes with a 3-year warranty.
I agree—it actually makes more sense to just buy everything in Canada. If he doesn't want to deal with those random hardware resellers on Craigslist, he could always check out specialized retailers like Micro Center or similar shops. The selection and pricing aren't nearly as bad as they used to be. In fact, I’ve honestly seen better availability for Intel motherboards, cases, and even niche GPU brands there than what we typically find here in the States.