Posts by Olivia Torres

I guess you could probably just grab a cheap plug-in signal extender. Not like it’s breaking the bank or anything.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...ender&_sacat=0

There are tons of different Microsoft models out there with all sorts of specs, so it’s hard to pin down exactly what we're talking about here.

In the Gulf states, it's definitely worth picking one up, especially the places that have free trade agreements with the US. I'm not entirely sure if Qatar is part of that, but for Bahrain and a few other Gulf countries, I'm pretty sure they are. And honestly, you might as well go overboard buying them there. Especially at the airport in Bahrain—it's basically a paradise for shopping for stuff like this.

When I say "go overboard," I'm mostly talking about those classic American brands: Dell, Levi's, Motorola... it’s like you just discovered America, walking through some massive outlet mall... then you load up, head back home, and act like you found some hidden treasure on Facebook.

Regarding Europe right now—the US is looking really solid. It would mean that something worth 1,000 of something would cost $1,000 in the States, and maybe roughly the same or a tiny bit more in the European Union, but in Euros. That’s the kind of parity all those neoliberal types dreamed about, and it's that initial "saving" that always works. Any other savings after that are just a nice bonus.

It's tough to draw any smart conclusions from this. If they have it at the airport, I wouldn't overthink it too much, even if they aren't in a free trade zone.

Just close your eyes, pay the money, and go for it!

And if they don't have it, just call a taxi and drive somewhere that does.😁

this is a bit of a trick question 😍

it shouldn't really be necessary if you're using a laptop. those things already have it built-in. plus, way more than just that.

but who knows, maybe it doesn't even have it, I guess 🤔

Maybe your PC just missed out on that big "anniversary update."

http://tunecomp.net/how-to-check-if-...talled-or-not/

The other thing—and this is where things get sketchy with Windows—is that you might not have been signed into a Google account the whole time you've been using it.

I mean, Bill Gates really wants every single user synced up to the main database with their full legal name, even if they don't exactly advertise it that way by giving you ways to opt out. But man, you'll find that out the hard way when you try to use the Microsoft Store! If you aren't careful, they'll force a connection on you... honestly, what a joke.

And then, even if you *are* being careful and only logging into the Store app itself, once you haven't logged in for a while, they start throwing that 0x80072f89 error at you.

It's probably just that anniversary update issue, I guess.

Carl Perez55 said:So, here’s the deal... I ran into a weird little hiccup a few days after doing a clean install of Windows 10 (I went from Windows 10 to a total wipe and then a fresh Windows 10 setup). The thing is, whenever I try to shut down, the software side—you know, the OS itself—seems to do its job just fine. The screen goes dark, but then the power light stays on and I can still hear the fan spinning. Honestly, I can't quite tell if it's coming from my dedicated GPU, the CPU, or maybe even the hard drive. If it is the graphics card or processor, it sounds like it's just idling because the noise is way quieter than when I'm actually using the laptop normally.
The only way I can get it to actually turn off is by holding down the power button, which... yeah, I'm pretty sure that's not the healthiest or most efficient way to handle things.
Has anyone else dealt with this or does anyone happen to have some insight on how to fix it?
Thanks so much in advance!
UPDATE: It turns out this only happens when the laptop is plugged into the wall. When I'm running on battery power, it shuts down perfectly fine.

Try going into "Power Options" (just right-click the Start icon) and once you're in there, click "Choose what the power buttons do" on the side menu. While you're in those power settings, check the shutdown option and then hit "Save changes"... maybe that'll actually work.

I'm no tech guru, and honestly, I wouldn't want to be one, but looking at all the tech magazines lately, it seems like you can get a setup that's just a tiny step below top-tier high-end gear for that kind of cash. Now, whether it actually makes sense to hook up a beastly rig like that to some 17" or 19" monitor from back in 2001 just to play arcade games—well, that's a whole different story. Since computing pretty much boils down to whatever you're seeing on the screen, and since we're talking about a retiree here (who probably values his eyesight), maybe it'd be smarter to build this whole thing around a really nice display. Maybe a Philips, a Dell, or some other Best Buy 24" monitor for around $200. That's a solid move, because if prices have been dropping for the last decade—like, cutting in half—then you're getting decent quality. The rest of the "budget" should probably go toward the PC case and some high-end peripherals.
Since all those self-proclaimed PC experts keep saying the whole world of PC cases and parts has been stuck in a rut for years regarding revolutionary speed or processor jumps—basically, that the "personal computer" concept peaked a while ago—even buying a used machine or a pre-built "office PC" with a Solid State Drive might be fine... it's not like it'll matter much. As for putting it together, I guess there's this AI-driven builder on some tech site: , plus you've got big retailers like Best Buy or Micro Center that do the heavy lifting for you. You just send them an "official inquiry," and they send back quotes. Hopefully... yeah.