Posts by Thomas Sanchez2

shadowlynx102 said:I’d suggest grabbing GetDataBack Pro—honestly, it's the best tool I've found for recovering deleted files. What you should do is pull the drive out and plug it directly into your computer as an external drive, then just run a full scan using GetDataBack. One thing I learned the hard way is that you absolutely cannot save the recovered files back onto the same drive you're scanning; if you try, you might overwrite the very data you're trying to save. For example, if that drive shows up as your E: drive, make sure you're saving everything over to your D: drive instead. Once you've got all your stuff safely copied off, you can move it back to the original drive and put it right back on your network setup.

Yeah, I get what you mean. Thanks!

Megan Thomas5 said:I mean, scanning a mapped drive is pretty much a non-starter. You don't actually have direct access to the drive itself; it’s just a virtual layer sitting there. You can't touch the underlying file system like that. But hey, if this is a total disaster, just tear the thing apart and connect the drive locally. Pull it out, plug it straight into a machine, and then try to recover your files.
It'll be easy enough to put the drive back in later.

Yeah, that's pretty much where my head is at too... Thanks! Though maybe there is some other way—if anyone knows one—but yeah, pulling the drive is probably my last resort. 🙂

ironwolf2 said:Is restoring from a backup the only way out?

Yeah, our backups run on a weekly schedule. The files that got deleted were specifically from this current week, right at the end of the business day—so, I guess if the backup runs every Monday and this happened on a Friday, they aren't in there.

Megan Thomas5 said:Forget about that spammy software. Just try mapping the drive via its IP address so you can access it properly as a network drive, like T:
Then, I guess you could try using Recuva or something similar, but honestly? The chances of actually recovering anything are pretty slim.

Hmm, look, I know there's a ton of junkware out there related to this stuff, but I don't think this specific program is one of them... I've mapped the drive like this (https://prnt.sc/psofQ8Kej9tH). That's how we handle our own server when we're updating content. But for some reason, I just can't get to it through any 'Undelete' programs.

I’m running a Western Digital My Cloud EX2 Ultra server. We’ve got about ten people using it, and I’ve set up several folders with specific permissions for different users—everything works fine over ZeroTier. We all just access everything through File Explorer by mapping the specific server folders each person needs.

But now we’ve hit a snag—one of the users accidentally wiped out some really important files. I jumped straight into the server settings and noticed there's a 'Recycle Bin' option, but it wasn't enabled. I went ahead and turned it on for all the folders immediately (though, obviously, I didn't expect that to magically fix things retroactively).

Afterward, I did some digging online, and apparently, some people claim that even if you have the Recycle Bin enabled on the server, files deleted via File Explorer don't actually get sent there. I ran a few tests myself, and yeah, it’s true—deleting stuff doesn't move it to the Recycle Bin at all.

So now I'm totally stuck—does anyone actually know how to fix this?

On top of that, I stumbled upon this file recovery software:
https://www.imyfone.com/data-recover...m-wd-my-cloud/

The site explicitly says: "As WD My Cloud is remotely accessible, iMyFone D-Back Hard Drive Recovery Expert can work from any PC as well."

The problem is, I can't actually "locate" or see that mapped folder in File Explorer when I try to use the software.

Is there any software out there that lets you set a laptop camera to record constantly? Basically, I'm looking to turn my webcam into a makeshift security camera for my office 🙂 Honestly, it doesn't even need to be live; it just needs to record so I can go back and review the footage later. Has anyone actually tried this before?

wiredotter14 said:So, your laptop doesn't even have a standard HDMI port?

Look, if it works, it works. I guess it doesn't really matter what the monitor specs are if you're already up and running.

Otherwise, you could always just grab a USB-C to HDMI or DisplayPort cable. That’s usually the move if you want higher resolutions or faster refresh rates than what you've got now, but honestly, since your monitor is just 1440p at 60Hz, almost any HDMI setup should handle it—including the one through your current hub.

Yep, no HDMI. Got it, thanks!

wiredotter14 said:Try plugging the monitor straight into the laptop and see if you get the same error message.

You could also try plugging the charger directly into a different port on the laptop, which might solve your charging issues altogether.

Thanks for the general advice.

I'm honestly not sure how I'd connect the monitor directly, since this ultrabook only has two USB-C ports 🙂 I guess there’s probably a specific cable for that, but I don't have one on hand.

As for the charger—when I plug it in directly, the yellow warning doesn't pop up. 🙂 But yeah, it feels like the power delivery is pretty much the same whether I'm using the hub or going direct.

wiredotter14 said:Oh, I just spotted the link on a different thread:

Can some mod merge these threads?

Anyway, from what I can tell, it’s just your standard USB Type-C hub that claims to support 100W charging on paper.
https://www.ryanscomputers.com/orico...usb-type-c-hub

I dealt with a similar mess once with a budget hub that wasn't exactly high-end either.

Does that hub get hot when you're actually using it? Like, does it heat up regardless of whether your battery is full or not?

That Windows notification issue you're seeing is pretty typical, though I guess it isn't a huge deal.
It usually happens because the hub either isn't passing enough current or it's overheating and wasting power from the charger.
The fact that your stock charger is only 45W doesn't really help, since there isn't much juice to begin with.

Bottom line is, you probably don't need to sweat it as long as everything works and your laptop charges fast enough through the hub.

If it bugs you, you could always just plug your laptop charger directly into the laptop and stick the USB hub into a different Type-C port.
The only way that won't work is if your other port is already being used for a video output.

Could you clarify the question about the monitor? How is it connected, and what's actually going wrong (besides that error message)?

P.S.

Thunderbolt is a whole different beast. You aren't getting Thunderbolt through that hub, and honestly, you don't need it for what you're doing.
A decent Thunderbolt hub is going to run you north of $100.

Yeah, here's the working link again: https://bit.ly/3HAyzc9

So, just because it says 100W on the box doesn't mean it works like that in reality—especially since the original is only 45W, so it shouldn't even be triggering a warning for too much power through the hub.

Everything seems fine—neither the charging nor the monitor via the HDMI cable—but those messages are what bother me. What's with the exclamation mark and this warning about the monitor being limited?

Thomas Sanchez2 said:it depends on which HDMI version you're running (the cable needs to support it too), so you probably won't see peak performance:

Also, I'm honestly not sure why we aren't hitting max performance based on this info:

1.) Monitor specs: https://prnt.sc/VeZ6CFmfqwlz

2.) Like I mentioned, here’s my current setup: https://prnt.sc/iTInES3p5s5n

Or maybe there's some third thing I'm missing?

wiredotter14 said:That USB hub link isn't working for you, huh?

Is it one of those hubs that plugs into a wall outlet for extra power?

Nah, it doesn't have its own power supply. Here’s a shortened link, this should work now: https://bit.ly/3HAyzc9

Thomas Sanchez2 said:It responds to peripherals, though it really depends on which HDMI version you're using (your cable has to support it too), so you probably won't see peak performance:

Alright, thanks! So what's the fix here? Just grab a better hub and a better cable? 🙂

I'm using a Dell U2722 monitor paired with a USB hub (an Orico https://www.ryanscomputers.com/orico...usb-type-c-hub) that's hooked up to my laptop (the new Ultrabook Dell XPS 13 9310). Basically, the monitor connects via HDMI to the hub, which then plugs into the laptop through the Type-C port. On Windows 11 Pro (fully updated), I keep getting this message: https://prnt.sc/yu8W4NvJ4vef

What does this even mean? Am I hitting some kind of hardware limitation on the monitor, or should I just ignore the warning (is there a way to disable it?)

Here’s what my current settings look like: https://prnt.sc/iTInES3p5s5n

So, I’ve got this MacBook Air and a USB hub (https://www.ryanscomputers.com/orico...usb-type-c-hub), and I tried charging the laptop through the hub itself. My original charger is rated at 45W, but when I tried to google the maximum charging speed for this specific laptop, I ended up finding a total mess of conflicting info—everything from 45W to 100W. I honestly have no clue what the actual limit is. According to the hub's description (https://prnt.sc/P5Lq2kL_MOdF), it should work, but here's the thing: when I'm using macOS Sonoma, I get this annoying yellow warning icon whenever I charge via the hub. It doesn't show up at all when I use the original charger: https://prnt.sc/OU-G8snG0mUi

Is this actually an error, or is it just the system letting me know I'm not using the original power supply? Is it safe to keep charging this way? From what I can tell by testing it, the estimated time remaining until full looks the same, so I guess it might be charging at the same speed?

Susan Morris3 said:maybe try logging into your account via Edge just to verify if the account actually works or if the password is legit...

I already mentioned in my first post that signing in through a browser works perfectly fine, so I don't think we're looking at a wrong password issue here. It feels more like something weird is going on. 🙂

Richard Lee47 said:So, like, a whole separate Microsoft Account?

Honestly, I’m getting to the point where I’m actually scared to log in with any other account just because I don't want to trigger some extra headache...

I’m running into an issue on a laptop—it’s running the latest version of Windows 11 Pro, and right now the user is logged in via a local 'Administrator' account. I want to switch over to a Microsoft Account login, which was working perfectly fine until someone recently entered an email address into Outlook, but now I keep getting hit with this error whenever I try to 'Sign in with Microsoft Account':



I’m honestly at a loss here. I’ve scoured Google for answers, but nothing seems to stick. I’ve tried everything people suggested—running Windows updates (they’re already current), messing with the country settings, adjusting the time zone, and fixing the date/time (all done)—and the internet connection is solid since I can sign in through a browser without any issues.

I did stumble upon this fix for Windows 10, but it didn't help me at all: https://www.kapilarya.com/fix-someth...unt-windows-10

Does anyone have any ideas on what else I could try?

Thomas Sanchez2 said:I need some advice—I'm torn between getting an inkjet or a laser printer.

So, here’s the deal (mostly B&W and color docs, maybe a photo or two now and then), and my requirements are:

- needs to handle A3/A4 printing
- needs scanning and copying capabilities
- low ink costs down the road (I don't mind using third-party cartridges, as long as they actually work)
- maximum budget for the unit is $500

Is there anything out there that counts as a true best buy?

Okay, honestly, probably nothing at that price point. Maybe something closer to $833? 🙂

I need some advice—I’m torn between getting an inkjet or going with a laser.

So, here’s the breakdown (mostly B&W and color docs, with the occasional photo thrown in), and my requirements are:

- Needs to handle both A3 and A4 printing
- Must have scanning and copying capabilities
- Low ongoing ink costs (I don't mind using third-party cartridges, as long as they actually work reliably)
- Total price for the machine shouldn't exceed $500

Is there anything out there that would be considered a real best buy?

gentlecyclist16 said:I hope this doesn't come off too aggressive, because I mean well here. 🙂 Maybe you should first try to break down which specific programming domains actually interest you from a "bird's eye view"—for instance, check this out: https://www.quora.com/What-are-the-s...re-engineering. Every single sub-domain listed in that link comes with its own unique architectures, paradigms, and the specific programming languages best suited for those applications.

Then—and I’m not telling you anything new here—being fluent in English is absolutely vital. Without it, you're basically dead in the water in the US tech industry. American resources are microscopic compared to the sheer wealth of information available in English. Honestly, why even ask a question like this on an American forum when you could just type "programming languages with the greatest prospects and longevity in 2022" into Google?

Everyone is going to have their own truth based on their own experience. If I were starting from scratch today and had to pick just one language, it would most likely be Java.
My arguments "for" it:
- It’s been around for 25 years and shows no signs of slowing down.
- It serves as the primary language for native Android apps, an operating system supported by Google that was installed on roughly 130 million devices in 2022.
- It’s used across 13 billion different devices as of 2022.
- Java is a textbook example of a well-designed language, featuring what is arguably the best implementation of OOP in the programming world.
- Since the syntax is so similar to C++, anyone who learns Java won't struggle much when transitioning to C or C++ (or even Microsoft C#).
- A Java application can often be ported to a different platform without any modifications (like moving from Windows to Linux).
- Web back-end programming. To build something quickly, people might use PHP or Node.js, but when you're dealing with large teams and critical enterprise financial applications, I believe they'd much rather opt for Java.

Thanks, that sounds really good. 🙂

darkcyclist92 said:Learning to code "solo" (as a self-taught person) is something only teenagers with massive, lightning-fast mental capacity can pull off. They can spend five years building up some level of practical skill and then adapt quickly enough to enter a professional environment. Then, once a senior developer gives them a little bit of respect... that's it. That's the whole game.

I’d agree with gentlecyclist16 that Java is a top-tier choice given today's digital trends, but personally, if I could give you the best advice, it would be to stop thinking about programming anything at all.

You've waited too long to start; the competition is way too intense, and the tasks are getting more complex by the day. By the time you master the basics, you'll be exhausted by age 40, just struggling to keep pace with everyone else, only to realize you wasted 4 or 5 years of your life on nothing.

It's better to just focus on what you're actually good at and aim to be the best you can be at whatever it is you're doing right now.

If you're dead set on getting into programming, you're probably going to need to find yourself a mentor—someone who's actually been in the trenches for years. I guess having a tutor might help you pick things up five times faster than just grinding away on your own. But, I don't know, there's still the issue of lacking that raw, hands-on experience... so, it's really up to you how you want to play it.

Look, I'm not a programmer anymore, but I used to be, and honestly? I wouldn't go back to that job for all the money in the world.

You aren't exactly an optimist, are you? Heh. 🙂 I get what you're saying, though. I really do.