Posts by Jerry Williams10

Wait, didn't Charles Leclerc himself say he wanted to stick with the hard tires?

Is there any real difference between the ASUS Dual RX 5600 XT and the Challenger version? They’re currently on sale at a local Best Buy near me, but the PowerColor Hellhound is $167 more expensive. I'm planning on putting some cash down upfront and financing the rest, so ordering online isn't really an option for me right now.

I’m going to wait and see if these Blue Screens of Death make another appearance, though things seem to have stabilized since I installed those Realtek drivers. Yesterday was actually my first full day without any hiccups since the PC arrived last week.

As for the voltage, it looks like everything is within the expected range. At least, that’s what the folks over at the official AMD forums are saying. Apparently, it only spikes to that level for about a millisecond just to give certain processes a little extra kick; if it stayed pinned at that voltage constantly, then we’d definitely have something to worry about.

I went ahead and ran Driver Booster, and it flagged that Realtek driver as being faulty. It ended up downloading and installing some fresh drivers, so now we just wait and see if that actually fixes things.

crimsonstag84 said:That voltage level is basically a recipe for extreme overclocking; it's way too high for standard use. It looks like you might have ended up with a motherboard running a subpar BIOS version, which is causing the voltage to spike like crazy. There's a good chance the Load Lin Calibration is set to its most aggressive mode, leading the board to overvolt everything.

From what I can gather from looking things up online, with XFR enabled, you should be seeing something closer to 1.35V, nothing much higher than that.

It isn't exactly rocket science to test this and get it sorted out... just head into the BIOS, go to Voltage Configuration, set the CPU Voltage to an Offset of -100mV, and run a quick stress test to see how it holds up. If it's available, you could also try setting the Load Lin Calibration(LLC) to its lowest value (on an ASRock board, that’s usually the highest number, likely 3 or 5).

...or honestly, just flash the BIOS to the latest version first, and that might clear the whole thing right up.😉

The last possibility is that the reading itself is just wrong, though I wouldn't bet on it. You might want to double-check the numbers using HWInfo.

At this point, I'm actually less worried about the voltage and more preoccupied with this constant BSOD -.-. Do you happen to have any inkling of what might be causing that?

I'm running into some BSOD issues lately; right before the restart, I get hit with a BAD_POOL_CALLER error, and it seems to happen almost exclusively while I'm gaming.

Here is what I pulled up on on WhoCrashed.

crash dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\010818-19156-01.dmp
This was probably caused by the following module: ntoskrnl.exe (nt+0x142900)
Bugcheck code: 0xC2 (0x7, 0x126C, 0x40C000D, 0xFFFFE001EC762730)
Error: Corporation BAD_POOL_CALLER 2
file path: C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
product: Microsoft ® Windows ® Operating system company : Microsoft Corporation description : NT kernel & system
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: NT kernel & system
Bug check description: This indicates that the current thread is making a bad pool request.
This appears to be a typical software driver bug and is not likely to be caused by a hardware problem.
The crash took place in the Windows kernel. Possibly this problem is caused by another driver that cannot be identified at this time.

crash dump file: C:\Windows\MEMORY.DMP
This was probably caused by the following module: rtwlanu.sys (rtwlanu+0x44854)
Bugcheck code: 0xC2 (0x7, 0x126C, 0x40C000D, 0xFFFFE001EC762730)
Error: BAD_POOL_CALLER
file path: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\rtwlanu.sys
product: Realtek wlan wireless USB 2.0 adapter company
company: Realtek Semiconductor Corporation
description: Realtek WLAN USB NDIS Driver 39163
Bug check description: This indicates that the current thread is making a bad pool request.
This appears to be a typical software driver bug and is not likely to be caused by a hardware problem.
A third party driver was identified as the probable root cause of this system error. It is suggested you look for an update for the following driver: rtwlanu.sys (Realtek WLAN USB NDIS Driver 39163, Realtek Semiconductor Corporation ).
Google query : rtwlanu.sys Realtek Semiconductor Corporation BAD_POOL_CALLER

Two crash dumps were located and parsed, and they point directly toward a third-party driver as the culprit behind these system crashes. It would be a smart move to hunt down the latest updates for these drivers on the manufacturer's site. Click on The links below to search with Google for updates for Thes Drivers :

And I’m hoping that holds true. Over the last hour or so, my VCORE hasn't even touched 1.040v, even while I was jumping between heavy gaming sessions and just browsing the web.

Can someone tell me if this looks okay? View on imgur

First off, I haven't touched any overclocking settings; everything in my BIOS is sitting firmly on automatic. That voltage spike only seems to flash on the screen for a split second before it settles back down to where it belongs. On average, I’m seeing about 0.8v.

I'm just a bit worried that my processor might turn into a pile of ash before I even get a chance to actually use it properly. I've had some people tell me that the voltage is way too high, while others insist that's just how XFR is supposed to behave and that it's perfectly fine. In my state of anxiety, I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place, and I don't dare tweak a single setting for fear of completely bricking the whole thing.

Thanks, guys. Just one more quick question so I don't accidentally screw things up. I'm currently using a Dell Monitor. Should everything run smoothly on it, even if the thing is seven years old?

from 500 up to $1833. I think I could actually squeeze everything into that budget if I decide to skip getting a brand-new hard drive, though I'm still scratching my head over what those 500GB on my old drive are actually holding onto. The only catch is that the cheapest B350 boards usually only come with two RAM slots, but honestly, that's not even worth worrying about.

I don't want to clutter up this thread unnecessarily, so I figured it might be better to just toss this question here. I’m looking at picking up a new rig from my local Best Buy, but I’ve got a few lingering doubts about the specs. If anyone could weigh in, I'd appreciate it.

I'm torn between two paths: going with an Intel Core i5-7400 paired with a fresh hard drive, or opting for an Intel Core i5-8400 if I decide to stick with my old drive, both running alongside a GTX 1050 Ti. My plan is to drop this all onto an A320 motherboard since I have zero intention of messing around with overclocking—it’s just not my style, even if people say it's the way to go with Ryzen. That said, does anyone actually know anything about the build quality of these two boards? I'm looking at the ASUS Prime A320M-K or the MSI A320M-A Pro. Should everything run smoothly if I settle on one of those?

Then there's the RAM situation. I'm staring down two choices... either some Corsair Vengeance DDR4 8GB or maybe the Corsair DDR4 8GB 2666MHz HyperX Fury with CL16 latency.

I'm also wondering if the Corsair CX450 is a reliable choice for a power supply. The other contenders on the table are a semi-modular Fortron Hyper M 500W, a semi-modular Fractal Design 450W with an 80+ Bronze rating, or a standard Zalman 500W.

As for the housing, I'll probably slide everything into a Microsoft Windows themed case, or perhaps something from the Cyclops lineup.

I might have actually interrupted the process for the third time now, mostly because the first two attempts just kept forcing a reboot to try and finish those updates on their own. Once I realized the third time was going to follow that same loop, I decided to take matters into my own hands—but after that, I just hit a dead end at that same screen I mentioned earlier.

I tried tweaking the settings, sure. But honestly, nothing changed. I've been running Windows on this machine for three years now without a single hiccup, so it’s definitely acting strange all of a sudden.

So, here’s the situation. Everything just completely froze up while I was browsing the web, and since the whole system was crawling along at a snail's pace during recovery, I decided to just force a reboot. Right then, Windows decided it was the perfect time to try an update, but it choked halfway through. Now, it's stuck in this endless loop of restarting and attempting to finish that failed update, but nothing actually happens. I tried to force my way into Safe Mode, but I ended up failing that too and just told it to load Windows normally instead. Since then, I haven't been able to get past this black screen filled with white text—the one that mentions booting from a CD/DVD. It just sits there, staring back at me. Even when I try to prioritize the hard drive in the BIOS, it’s like hitting a brick wall; it stays stuck on that screen, even if the "boot from cd" message isn't even showing anymore. I can't even reach the Safe Mode option now. I used to be able to trigger the automatic repair via the recovery menu, but because I can't move past this black screen, I can't get anywhere near those settings. Is Windows totally trashed here? Or am I looking at a dead hard drive?

Honestly, the whole thing just feels incredibly silly and hypocritical to me. I’m sure plenty of you have to clock in this Friday... and I’m equally certain a good number of you will be grabbing a beer at some local pub on Friday night without a single soul complaining that the establishment is open. If skipping a football game is suddenly a religious issue, then we might as well stop going out on Sundays too, since that's technically a day of rest, right?

Sports leagues all over the world schedule games on that day—whether it’s football, baseball, or anything else—so you guys really seem to be the only fans out there complaining about it having an impact

I’ve got a feeling that fan needs some lubrication... but I don't own a screwdriver small enough to actually get into that housing and reach it -.-

NVIDIA GeForce GT 430

So, it seems to kick in right when I’m booting up the PC. Sometimes the fans just refuse to spin up properly. This started happening back toward the end of winter or maybe early spring, then everything stayed smooth all through the summer, but now that we're cooling down, it's acting up again—which makes me wonder if temperature fluctuations are playing a role here. On top of that, the whole thing is making this weird noise. Oddly enough, the noise usually dies down once everything warms up, or if I give the desk near the tower a little tap with my hand.
Does anyone have a clue what might be causing this, and is there any way to fix it myself without having to haul it all the way to a repair shop?

Edit: Oh, and one more thing—when I shut the computer down, the fan doesn't coast to a stop like the CPU fan does, which usually spins for a few extra seconds before settling. Instead, this one just stops dead in its tracks instantly, almost like it hit a snag. It also feels a bit loose or wobbly. Not sure how much of this is actually normal behavior.

It’s highly probable this actually happened, mostly because some guy over on the ESPN forums was already calling it out a few days ago.