A colleague of mine is running an Intel Core i7-4790S and he’s on the hunt for a decent Cooler to handle some pretty intense workloads. We aren't talking about casual browsing here; this processor needs to survive a literal 12-hour daily torture test, 365 days a year, pinned at 100% load across every single core. Since I know you can't exactly overclock that specific chip, I'm stuck wondering what to actually recommend without accidentally buying him a massive overkill solution that he doesn't even need.
There are plenty of apps out there designed to shuttle files across a Wi-Fi network, which is obviously leagues faster than fumbling around with Bluetooth. I’d imagine it’s as simple as having one phone act as a mobile hotspot to get the whole thing moving.
If my memory serves me right, Lenovo offers a standard one-year warranty across their entire lineup. On top of that, Best Buy is currently running a promotion where you can snag an extra couple of years of coverage for next to nothing on a huge selection of models—not to mention you can shave another 5% off the price if you just order through their website.
Joshua Patel68 said:It’s basically the exact same drive, just coming from a different supplier. Plus, they both carry a two-year warranty; that one-year mention is clearly just a typo...
Well, it turns out Best Buy works with a whole host of different distributors and lumps their entire price list into one massive catalog, so isn't it just incredibly easy to stumble upon the exact same item listed at several different price points?
At that price point, I’ve only managed to find a handful of models over at ADM, and none of them even feature a standard US layout (though, let’s be honest, that doesn't actually stop anyone from typing whatever they want 😁 ). Personally, I lean toward WASD keyboards because of the sheer amount of flexibility you get; you can hand-pick your switches, customize the layout, play around with keycap colors, and even have your own custom designs laser-engraved right onto them, even if they don't come with any lighting. The cost is just a minor detail—around $150 plus tax.
I’m assuming that if your NAS device were to kick the bucket, you could potentially plug those drives directly into a PC—provided, of course, that your motherboard actually supports RAID and you manually configure both drives as a single array in the BIOS, otherwise, the system won't even realize they belong together. As for plugging them straight into another NAS? I wouldn't count on it; from what I understand about my own setup, the moment a NAS thinks a drive is empty, it immediately tries to format it to make itself useful. 😁
It is entirely possible that some new component failed on you, so there is really no point in overthinking it; if they were the ones who put this rig together and it’s still under warranty, why not just haul it back to them for every little hiccup before that coverage expires? 😁 By the way, you aren't going to hear your SSD making any noise, because they are famously silent.
So, can I just plug this straight into a wall outlet? If I try using it through a power strip, is it just going to be a total waste of money?
It might actually work on a power strip, though you have to consider whether other devices plugged in there will end up creating too much interference; however, plugging it directly into the wall is usually your best bet. On my setup, there’s an indicator light that shifts between red, yellow, or green depending on how strong the signal is. Regardless of what you decide, just make sure you hang onto the packaging and the receipt, because if the performance turns out to be underwhelming, you'll definitely want the option to return it or swap it for a different model.
Another route you might consider involves using powerline adapters. You simply plug one unit into an outlet near your computer—though I should warn you, they tend to play poorly with those bulky surge protectors—and link it to your PC via an Ethernet cable. Then, you take the second unit, plug it into an outlet near your modem (ideally a dedicated wall socket if you can manage it), and bridge the two with another LAN cable. It’ll likely set you back a decent chunk of change, but it's an option.
So, if you're still seeing nothing, why not try plugging it into a different computer using a VGA cable? And hey, if you can get your hands on a DVI to HDMI adapter or just a decent cable, give that a shot on your current setup too.
If your motherboard actually has an HDMI port, why don't you try plugging it in there? And while you're at it, could you double-check your display settings to see if your refresh rate is genuinely set to 60 Hz?
Look, you're dealing with a television here, not a dedicated computer monitor. What kind of cable are you even using to hook this thing up? And why on earth is your resolution set to 1680x1050? That's a completely wrong aspect ratio, which might just be the whole reason you're seeing that flickering. You really ought to switch it over to 1920x1080. Why don't you try toggling the picture mode to Entertainment and setting it to 16:9 at 1080p?
Thanks, I think I’ll spend some time digging through reviews to see if I can sniff out any hidden flaws. 😁 Personally, I’ve been torn between grabbing a high-end, powerhouse ultrabook or perhaps one of those indestructible tanks like a MacBook. Since I already have an old Surface sitting at home that still runs surprisingly well, I might just stick with what I know. 😬
Hi there. So, I’m in the market for a new laptop to handle my daily grind—think Microsoft Office, browsing the web, streaming movies and music, plus some work involving MATLAB and Python. Don't worry, I won't be asking for anything capable of running high-end AAA games. My absolute non-negotiables are speed and reliability. I have zero interest in a machine that takes an eternity just to boot up, or one where Microsoft Office and Firefox decide to take several minutes to load after I've been running it for a few days. Reliability is equally paramount; I have no desire to spend my time hauling a device back and forth to repair shops five times during the warranty period because someone decided to use cheap, flimsy components. I don't care about fancy optics, but an SSD is mandatory, and having the option to add a second drive would be highly desirable. As for the size, somewhere in the 13-15" range (an ultrabook works fine), and whether it has a touchscreen or not is frankly irrelevant to me. Warranty: I’m looking for 2 years or more. Budget: It's flexible, provided we're talking about true quality rather than just unnecessary luxury.
Take a look at what’s listed under "Sound, video & game controllers" in your Device Manager. If you don't see an Intel driver or whatever specific hardware came integrated with your motherboard, then you clearly haven't installed the necessary drivers yet.
I suspect that granitewolf11 isn't actually running the local Wi-Fi hotspot across the street, which means they probably need something a bit more substantial... perhaps a dedicated Wi-Fi router paired with an external antenna or even some kind of DIY signal booster... much like this example here.
Hello everyone, I’m currently on the hunt for a private dermatologist in Washington, D.C., primarily because I need a thorough skin check to have some moles looked at. Does anyone have a recommendation? Thanks!
You aren't going to see that showing up in Disk Management, no matter how much you stare at it. Have you tried cycling through every single USB port on your machine? Maybe even swap out the cable for a different one if you have a spare lying around. If you can, try testing it on a couple of other computers just to be absolutely certain. If it fails to register anywhere, then honestly, just take it back to Best Buy and get your money back.
