Posts by Angela Flores4

In the advanced sharing settings, you should go ahead and disable the option for password Protected Sharing on the Desktop-PC

It’s actually less than what his power supply claims. Why on earth would you even ask?

You didn't actually mention a budget here.
Personally, if I were looking at a "budget" setup, my go-to would be a ModMic paired with some Sennheiser HD660S. The beauty of this approach—unlike those inseparable, all-in-one combos—is that if one part fails, you aren't forced to toss the entire kit into the trash. Besides, let's be honest: these headphones are miles ahead of probably 90% of that "gamer" gear out there.

http://www.modmic.com/collections/mo...y=best-selling

To be perfectly honest, I find myself even more satisfied with the new one.

Any DAW you can think of.

Since you're running a Haswell setup at 4400/4600, it really ought to be capable of handling 8-bit HEVC without breaking a sweat; why don't you try updating your drivers and see if that clears things up?

fadedorca66 said:Using MPC-BE makes things a bit more manageable, though even then, you can still run into stutters if your GPU isn't up to the task. For those interested in testing their own setups, feel free to try this one out:

http://4ksamples.com/elysium-2013-21...ample-footage/

Ah, I see where you got your wires crossed. I actually tested the three samples listed below, and my i3-4330 handles them quite smoothly using just the HD 4600:

http://4ksamples.com/honey-bees-96fps-in-4k-ultra-hd/
http://4ksamples.com/4k-uhd-fireworks-sample/
http://4ksamples.com/2160p-demo-timelapse-project/

Now, that Elysium trailer you mentioned is encoded in H.265. What does that imply? It means that unless you have a graphics card capable of hardware decoding the H.265 codec, your software has to step in and do all the heavy lifting. On my i3 4330, for instance, all four threads absolutely hammer away at 100% capacity—and every single time they hit that ceiling, you're going to experience a stutter. Meanwhile, my i7 5930k keeps all twelve threads sitting comfortably between 50% and 70% without a single hiccup.🤣
Just for some perspective, when I play back 1080p video using an older codec like h264, my i7 sits at about 8% CPU load during software decoding, and drops down to a mere 3-4% when I let the hardware take over.

So, there you have it. Any 4k content that isn't utilizing H.265 should theoretically run on your machine without any trouble at all.

fadedorca66 said:Look, you really need a powerhouse here—something with DisplayPort and all the latest bells and whistles, ideally supporting multiple monitors. It also needs enough muscle to actually swallow those incredibly demanding 4K video files without choking.

I just downloaded a 4K sample and my R9 270 can't even touch it; we tried running it at the office on an i7 Haswell with its integrated graphics, and that failed to play 4K as well. I need to investigate further, though, could it perhaps be an issue with VLC?

It’s obviously the VLC settings. Out of the box, VLC isn't capable of playing anything remotely decent. Just install Kodi and give that a shot instead. You just have to make sure you go into the settings and verify that hardware acceleration is actually enabled.

I just tested what you mentioned on my own setup; using my GPU via DisplayPort, everything runs smoothly in Kodi, both through hardware and software decoding. However, when I try using the integrated graphics with an HDMI cable, both methods stutter, so I'm starting to suspect the cable's bandwidth might be the actual culprit.

If you have the chance, why don't you try both methods through Kodi and let me know how it turns out?

fadedorca66 As if we haven't heard this all before, right?
So, what’s the play here if I want to actually enjoy my life and watch 4K movies on the big screen without everything stuttering like crazy? I don't care about gaming at all—that's completely off the table—so I just need something that can handle heavy video playback smoothly. Any recommendations?

If you're already running an Intel CPU, do you even really need to bother with anything else?

Adam Moore3 said:I mean, let’s be honest, shouldn't the human eye even struggle to distinguish between 24 FPS and anything higher? Take *The Hobbit*, for instance, which was shot at 48 FPS—you can't actually perceive a meaningful difference, can you?

It isn't really a concern for the naked eye if that HDMI port can't push more than 30 FPS at that specific resolution, is it? Of course, there is absolutely a noticeable difference—I can't recall the exact technical specifics off the top of my head, but I am one hundred percent certain that any scene involving panning will look a million times better with a higher frame rate.

Gaming at 4K resolution is an incredibly expensive hobby, isn't it? Of course, that doesn't mean you can't just dial back the resolution and keep playing, but I'll admit I'm not exactly an expert when it comes to various upscaling techniques or how a 1080p image actually translates onto a massive 4K panel. Perhaps someone here has more experience with the nuances of that transition, but I remember on older 1080p monitors, if your GPU was struggling and you dropped the resolution, everything would end up looking washed out and blurry because of the upscaling. As for whether it's worth it from a purely financial standpoint? Absolutely not. But for the pure soul of the experience... maybe 😁

jadebison17 said:I totally get where you guys are coming from... anyway, I decided to treat myself $633 today and headed out to pick up a brand new Sapphire Toxic R9 280 x 3GB Tri-X graphics card! I’m really crossing my fingers that I made the right call here—what do you all think?

Just getting started with the unboxing process right now... -,-"

Lol. Bumbleebeejev brother? 😁🙏

http://news.tfw2005.com/wp-content/u...blebee-027.jpg

Yeah, let's be real: unless you're chasing some insane, ultra-high resolutions or frame rates that defy logic, setting up SLI or CrossFire just isn't worth the headache. I say this as someone who proudly maintains an SLI rig and has personally endured every single frustration imaginable that comes with it.
- You end up with a flimsy, low-quality SLI cable, and if it isn't seated perfectly, your entire screen starts flickering with these obnoxious green, blue, or red artifacts.
- Half the games out there don't even bother utilizing SLI for peak performance, so you basically just let one card do all the heavy lifting anyway.
- You have to manually toggle SLI every single time you sit down to play—since I keep my cards in adaptive performance mode to ensure they stay silent and power-efficient during daily tasks—and then, of course, you have to remember to switch it back when you're done.
- And if a game doesn't natively support SLI, you can try to force it through, but will it actually work? Usually, it's a coin toss with very little success.

Honestly, it might as well be a toaster at this point. I mean, if its sole purpose in life is just scrolling through a gallery of images, what else is there to say? 😁

Hey there.
I’m on the hunt for a device I can hook up to a 1440p monitor via DisplayPort or HDMI—though, honestly, if I have to drop the resolution down to 1080p, I won't lose any sleep over it, provided 1440p remains an option.
The platform itself doesn't matter much to me, and my primary goal is to keep the price as low as humanly possible. The device's sole purpose will be scrolling through image galleries, so my main concern is just finding a way to navigate that feels intuitive and practical—whether that means using a keyboard, a remote, some dedicated buttons, or heaven knows what else.
Any suggestions?
I've spotted some cheap little stick computers for around $333, but I'm holding out hope that I can find a significantly better deal than that.

wiredotter14 said:Brand-name prebuilts are an absolute nightmare if you ever plan on upgrading your GPU, even if they come in a standard tower case.

They’re essentially just laptops without the keyboard or the monitor attached. Honestly, wouldn't it be much more sensible to just grab a mini-ITX case and cram whatever hardware you actually want inside it?

electricharbor30 said:In my humble opinion, factory specifications matter far more than any "real-world" testing. It’s like choosing between a car with 300 horsepower and one with 400—how much performance the actual driver can squeeze out of either is irrelevant. If you look at GPuzoo, you see the raw, factory power, which is what truly matters. If someone really wants to see the reality of the situation, they can simply downclock an AMD card to match a competitor's Nvidia specs and see how things hold up. Most gaming benchmarks are pretty much useless...

Sure, a 400-horsepower car might end up being significantly slower than a 300-horsepower one depending on the build, but who cares? I have to ask, though—what on earth are you thinking when you suggest picking a graphics card based solely on factory settings? How, where, or when could anyone possibly draw a meaningful conclusion from that logic?

Let me give you a hypothetical scenario: I am an incredibly demanding user looking for some expert guidance on selecting a graphics setup. My goal is to run The Witcher 3 and Crysis 3 on Ultra settings without making a single compromise. I’m using a 3440 x 1440 monitor running at 60 Hz. Both games absolutely must maintain an average framerate of at least 60 Hz. But wait, there's more. Since native rendering often produces unsightly artifacts, I intend to push the resolution up to 4865 x 2036 using DSR or some equivalent technology.
So, there you have it: 4865x2036, 60 Hz, Ultra, Crysis 3, and The Witcher 3. Alright, you geniuses, let's hear it.

P.S. Feel free to future-proof your answers for a 75 Hz refresh rate while you're at it. 🍿 🤣

Joshua Ramos14 said:Not a single bit of it works. 👏👏

It’s entirely possible. 🙏

My next build is going to be nothing but an SSD—pure silence treatment. 🎉

Why on earth are you still waiting? I think Brian Edwards78 is giving you some solid advice here; listen, I happen to have this gorgeous 2TB Seagate 2 TB drive just sitting around, practically begging to be sold. All you need is an open PCI-E slot and a little bit of cash. What do you say? 🙂

Joshua Ramos14 said:Don't get me banned from this forum; stop corrupting the youth here. 😒

It really all comes down to personal preference, doesn't it? Personally, I’ve always been a fan of partitioning, and I fully intend to keep doing things my way. My setup usually looks something like this:

My apologies. I suppose I shouldn't be making jokes at such a serious moment. If we are being strictly honest, I don't actually use partitions. In fact, I don't even bother with them. Instead, I rely on four separate hard drives plus an SSD, each meticulously assigned its own specific purpose. 🤣 😒

Jerry Phillips19 said:Actually, if I think about it logically, sticking to just one partition besides the C drive is much more practical. Over the years, I've realized how annoying it is to end up with all these tiny little slivers of leftover space. I'll have 8GB free on one, 5GB on another, and maybe 10GB on a third—so I have 23GB total, yet somehow I can't fit a single 12GB file anywhere! Having one large partition filled with folders completely eliminates that headache.

But if a drive fails entirely, does it even matter whether you had it partitioned or not, right?

From an organizational standpoint, I honestly don't see any real advantage. Given that most modern American PCs utilize an SSD for the operating system and a secondary drive for data storage, partitioning feels like a relic of the past. It used to make sense back when you only had a single physical drive split into multiple sections just so you could reinstall the OS without nuking your files, but that's a different era. Nowadays, if there's any benefit to partitioning at all, it would only be if you specifically need to run multiple operating systems simultaneously.

As for the whole "drive failure" argument... well, that depends entirely on how exactly the drive dies, doesn't it?

Partitioning is honestly such a pointless exercise. Folders are where the real logic lies. For instance, I just organize everything into simple folders: music, movies, games. It’s incredibly practical. 🙏

cosmicheron48 said:I don't know, I've never quite understood the logic behind the pricing or the whole concept of these "gaming" headsets and speakers. And let's be honest, the design is just atrocious—it looks like something made for a twelve-year-old.😁

It’s pure, unadulterated marketing. The second you slap a label on a device claiming it's specifically for one niche purpose, about 95% of people will flock to it like flies to garbage without even bothering to think for themselves.
But in that sense, they hit the mark perfectly. They are targeting a demographic that usually doesn't have their own money when they first start gaming, so parents end up footing the bill, which means the budget for speakers ends up being a mere fraction of what goes into the rest of the PC.
And don't even get me started on Hi-Fi, because clearly, nobody is crazy enough to drop $1667 plus an amplifier on a setup. You could pick up some studio monitors for $1,500, but they're massive—it feels like you're cramming two extra mini-towers onto your desk and they weigh three times as much. Plus, you can't just find a dedicated line designed to bridge them directly to a PC.
So, you're basically left with nothing but "gaming" audio.😁🙏

By the way, those are actually great; just peel that sticker off the left one.😬

Matthew Anderson said:I just took a look because I started getting paranoid; the temperatures are hovering just a hair too high, and all my fans seem to be struggling. How do I fix this?

The top of the case only has mounting holes for two fans. Here’s my question: the front of the chassis has room for two, but the case comes with three by default—two on top and one in the front. If I buy an extra one, will I actually have space to use it? I could also potentially add one at the bottom or one on the side panel.

Are you working with some sort of flimsy motherboard? If you're worried about stability, I’d suggest reinforcing it with some supports.

Right now, you've got negative pressure inside the case (assuming all your RPMs are set the same). Personally, I would install two fans in the front, one at the bottom, and one at the top, while leaving the AIO radiator in the rear. Ultimately, you just want to configure it so you're pulling more air into the system than you're pushing out.

electricharbor30 said:Just imagine if your neighbor actually caught a glimpse of what you have running inside that computer rig of yours—would they even bother to wave hello, or would they just stand there in stunned silence? 😬

And where exactly do you suppose those glowing green letters came from? It’s almost as if every single letter was hand-delivered by a different neighbor. 🙏