Drew Allen77 said:It’s definitely possible and honestly should work, so let me know what specific error message you're seeing.
If you have a PIN set, try disabling it first—the router doesn't give you a way to enter it...
I'll give that a shot, thanks. Though, to be fair, I have the unlock PIN enabled on my AT&T line and it works fine... So, I disable the PIN on my phone, under the network settings, right? 😁
Man... thanks for all the input... The router ought to be unlocked. My logic in choosing a dedicated router over just using my phone is pretty straightforward: I want those external antenna ports (which should, in theory, give me better signal range), the built-in battery backup for when the power inevitably goes out, and the Cat6 support for hopefully better throughput. Plus, I have a whole setup of computers that need to connect via Wi-Fi. On top of that, I can hardwire my desktop via Ethernet for maximum efficiency.
So, yeah, that’s why I’m leaning toward a mobile router. Maybe I'm overthinking it, but that's where my head is at...
In the meantime, I managed to pop an AT&T SIM from my phone into the device—it has a data plan and it's working fine.
However, the prepaid SIM I'm trying to use isn't cooperating. The device recognizes it and reads the info, but there's zero data flow. It shows some kind of upload activity, but absolutely nothing on the download side, or something along those lines. The device is supposedly unlocked, so I assume that shouldn't be the issue, but is it possible I'm mistaken?
I went ahead and filled out the AT&T online request to unlock the device, but based on the IMEI I entered, it automatically says the number isn't even in their records. Does that imply the device is already unlocked?
Of course, they haven't responded to my follow-up inquiry either, regardless of their promised 15-day turnaround. 😢
By the way, setting up the APN on this specific unit (the Huawei) is incredibly sparse. I can only input a few fields, so I'm starting to worry that might be the root of the problem..
Does anyone here have experience running this specific router with a prepaid SIM? Any idea which settings actually work for it?
I was wondering if anyone could clarify something for me: is it actually possible to take a standard SIM card—the kind I use for my monthly data plan—and pop it straight into a mobile router to get things running? Or am I required to have a specific SIM card designed specifically for that type of service?
If this is doable, I would appreciate a few pointers, because right now I’m getting an error message stating that the card is invalid.
To be specific, I'm working with an AT&T mobile router from Huawei, and I'm trying to use an AT&T SIM card that has a dedicated data package attached to it.
Even if these aren't technically a 2.1 setup, you pick these up and you’ll be dancing until sunrise with all your neighbors—whether they want you to or not! 🙂
I couldn't find any direct hits on that specific Genius SP-HF1800A model through our standard domestic supplier databases. It looks like you might be hunting for a discontinued legacy item or perhaps a regional SKU that hasn't made its way into the mainstream US retail channels yet. If you're looking for something with similar specs for a home office setup or a basic desktop upgrade, I'd suggest checking out the current offerings from Logitech or even some of the entry-level Bose kits if you want a step up in clarity. Most of the stuff currently sitting on the shelves at Best Buy or Amazon won't match those exact dimensions, but they'll certainly outperform an older unit in terms of driver response and connectivity.
A $167 What exactly are you supposed to hand over when the police pull you over?
I just couldn't get my main SSD to seat properly in the primary drive bay, so I ended up shoving it into the old HDD slot instead. Now, the damn thing is basically "cooking" inside the casing... So much for my grand designs and technical ambitions; everything just devolved into this one possible, messy workaround. 😉 🙂
Yeah, that’s pretty much what I was thinking, but does putting an SSD in an external enclosure actually let you take advantage of its speed, or is it basically all the same regardless?
Now I’m looking to swap my SSD into my laptop, but I'm honestly a bit stuck on the logistics.
My initial thought was to pop the SSD into that external enclosure, clone my current hard drive (specifically the OS partition), and then set the system to boot from the SSD.
The thing is, if I do that, the old HDD would still be sitting there being cooled by the internal fan, while the SSD wouldn't get any airflow at all. I'm wondering: is the data transfer speed and throughput going to be compromised, and will the lack of active cooling actually cause issues for the SSD?
Alternatively, if I were to put the SSD in the main internal slot and move the old HDD into the external enclosure, would that cause the hard drive to overheat?
I think I've laid out my dilemmas clearly enough—I'd really appreciate some advice here.
I ran into the exact same thing. My payment went through, but if I check my account under 'Orders' at Walmart, it just says 'payment processing'... It’s giving me three different buttons: VIEW, PAY, CANCEL. Everything makes sense except for that 'pay' option 🙂. Honestly, what am I even supposed to be paying for again?
Picked up a power bank, it arrived today... I don't know much about this specific model yet, but if the capacity claims are actually legit, having two USB ports is a nice little bonus. 😉 Price was decent enough—about $15, shipping included. https://walmart.com/ip/powerbank-10000-mah/
I’m personally not particularly interested, but there is that option for a one-month free trial of Prime, and you can cancel whenever you feel like it... I know that’s how Kindlove's crew used to sign up.
Everything is working fine, except for the power button occasionally flickering on and off... Even though I’ve checked everything and every single connection seems to be seated properly... I say "seems to be" because both the motherboard and the case are MSI, and those connectors are incredibly loose... I'm actually considering ripping them out entirely; I'm worried that "maybe it works, maybe it doesn't" contact might end up shorting out the motherboard... One of the front USB 3.0 ports is dead because one of the tiny wires on the motherboard header snapped—specifically for that blue USB 3.0 cable... So, yeah, things aren't exactly perfect, but let's call it a solid 80% success rate! 😉 Thanks again...
Thanks, everyone! You guys really saved me from making a massive mess out of a totally invalid warranty claim... Aside from those two front-panel USB 2.0 ports on the case, everything seems to be functioning perfectly (though I probably just had a momentary brain fart with the motherboard cables)... I went through a step-by-step check with all my peripherals—scanner, printer, webcam—plus the two standard HDDs inside the chassis, and everything checked out fine...
The first round of beers is on me! Just let me know when we finally cross paths!
Hey everyone, I’ve actually made some progress thanks to your help... Right now, I've just got the power cable connected—no RAM, no hard drive, nothing in the slots, just the processor. Now I'm getting an alarm sound... three long beeps! What's the move here? Should I just start stuffing in whatever components I have on hand and see what happens?
By the way, I don't see any jumpers on the board like the ones shown in the video, but I did pull the battery out for about a minute.
Alright, I’m jumping on every single suggestion the second I get near the machine! Thanks! Basically, I'm looking at a full CMOS reset, pulling everything except the CPU, the motherboard speaker, and the power button, and then seeing if it actually boots...
I have a PC that is roughly a year old. The specs are: - 400W PSU, Office Series LC500-12, ATX v2.31, 120mm fan, PFC - Intel Core i3 6100 3.70GHz Socket 1151 CPU - industrial Voyager 2 case - MSI H110 Socket 1151 Motherboard P/N: H110M_PRO-VD - 1x8GB DDR4 2133 MHz Kingmax RAM - 240GB AMD Radeon R3 2.5'' SATA III SSD - Toshiba 1TB SATA 3.5'' HDD - DVD-RW
After a standard shutdown and normal usage, the following occurred: Upon the next boot, all the usual sounds occur (specifically, I can hear the DVD drive spinning), all the fans spin up, the motherboard LEDs are lit, and the power cable to the SSD shows light,... What isn't working is: The keyboard and mouse combo from Logitech (not even a single light comes on), The monitor (absolutely no signal detected), The Ethernet port on the motherboard has no link lights, The Power button light won't turn on, The Reset button doesn't function either... It shuts down if I hold the Power button down (admittedly, it occasionally boots up on its own without me touching anything 😢)
During startup, there were no motherboard beep codes or alarm sounds.
Here is what I have attempted (aside from sighing deeply at my own helplessness): - Cleaned the contacts and tried moving the RAM stick to a different slot—nothing; - Tried swapping out the SATA cable for the SSD—nothing; - Tried plugging the SSD into a different SATA connector—nothing; - Disconnected everything except the SSD—nothing; - Cleaned the CPU fan and reapplied thermal paste—nothing; - Threw in an old PCIe graphics card—nothing; - Attempted to boot with only the HDD connected—nothing; - Attempted to boot with only the HDD connected, removing the SSD—nothing;
I can't figure out what the culprit is. Everything is still under warranty, but I am stuck on what specifically to file a claim for.
It seems likely that the motherboard is the issue, considering the voltage is reaching it, yet there are no link lights on the network port and no POST beep codes to indicate any other specific hardware failure...
Can anyone suggest what else I should try, given that I don't have any spare parts lying around to test and pinpoint the exact failure?
The only thing left might be testing a different power supply, but I still need to see if I can find one... I don't have anything else, no spare 1151 processor, no extra motherboard, no DDR4 RAM... ugh.
The HP seems decent enough... though I am a bit concerned that the screen isn't listed as an IPS panel in the specs. Should that be a dealbreaker? It does have an SSD, but I'm assuming that 1TB drive is actually an external one, because I can't wrap my head around where it would fit inside the chassis given that there's still a DVD-RW drive taking up space...
I’m looking for some guidance on picking out a professional-grade laptop. My main priority is the display—it needs to be easy on the eyes for long sessions, so I'm leaning toward a 17" or 17.3" screen, ideally matte with an FHD IPS panel. I also need something slim and efficient at heat management, yet powerful enough to handle CAD software, 3D modeling, Office suites, music production, and video editing without breaking a sweat. While I won't be lugging it around constantly, I still want something with premium build quality that feels substantial.
It would definitely be a plus if it comes pre-installed with Windows and offers a solid, long-term warranty.
My current budget is roughly $2333, though I could probably stretch it by another $50-$100 if there's a machine that hits all my requirements at a slightly higher price point.
I'm open to ordering online, but I'd prefer to find something available in local retail stores so I can get that "hands-on" feel before committing. Since I'm based in San Diego, options are somewhat limited, so I was thinking maybe Best Buy...
Looking back over my own list, I realize that if we actually manage to find a machine that checks every single one of these boxes, we'll have found ourselves a true "best buy." 😁
Anyway, thanks in advance for any help or suggestions you can throw my way.