Picked up a Canon PIXMA iP7250.... It feels just like my old Canon, except for one glaringly obvious issue: there’s no rear paper feed. I clearly didn't vet the specs closely enough... *sigh*... Oh well, at least it takes compatible third-party ink for $3.25, which is a win. 🙂
Tapatalk - I can't see any post titles, and half the time even the photos won't load 🙂
I checked to see if there was already a sticky thread dedicated to this topic... 🙂 I couldn't find one, so here I am, just throwing this out there...
It’s been about 7 or 8 years since I last bought a printer, and my current Canon PIXMA ip4850 just gave up the ghost today. Completely out of nowhere...
The infamous B200 error popped up on the display, and despite my best efforts—cleaning the contacts, swapping out cartridges, basically performing surgery—nothing works. It's over. Goodbye, Canon.
So, I’m looking for some recommendations for a new printer.
What I need is something reliable with inexpensive ink, whether that's original or third-party. I've also heard of those systems where you have external tanks that you refill manually... I can't recall the exact name, but essentially, I don't want to spend a fortune on ink because we print quite a bit at home. Most of our stuff is black and white, but maybe a quarter of our prints include color, so I'd like something that handles color reasonably well. We go through roughly 300 pages a month, though it fluctuates depending on the season.
I've always had a bit of a soft spot for Canon; before this one, I used a PIXMA ip4200 and they were solid enough, provided you use compatible inks... but now I'm second-guessing everything. (As a side note: before the ip4200, I had an Epson. The print quality was great and I paid a premium for original ink, but the thing died in less than two years. Back then, warranties were only a year, so I learned my lesson about trusting Epson... though, of course, things change.)
To be clear, I don't need an all-in-one; I already have a standalone scanner. I'm a little bummed that I won't be able to print directly onto CDs anymore, but the last time I did that was back in 2012 for a birthday party, so it's not a huge deal. 😁
So, please, help me out. What should I buy? What has good reviews? What actually makes sense financially?
So, there isn't really any meaningful performance gap in this price bracket, other than the storage capacity differences—you've got the SanDisk Ultra 256GB versus those Radeon or Kingston options.🤔
I just got word that they're actually willing to assemble my motherboard, processor, and cooler for free! Honestly, hats off to them! 👍
Alright... here is what I am planning to send over to the shop for a quote...
1) Micro Center - ASUS H110M - 414.04 2) Processor - Intel Core i3 6100 box - 950.91 3) SSD - NVIDIA GeForce GT 710 240GB - 532.59 4) RAM - Kingmax 1x8GB DDR4 2133 GLJG - 289.06 5) Case - Voyager 2 case without power supply - 125.00 6) Shipping - 40.00 TOTAL: $784
I went with that specific SSD because it comes with the longest warranty (5 years); it’s only about 15 bucks more than the cheapest option which only offers a 3-year warranty.
Does anyone happen to know if CNN handles custom configurations? In this instance, it would be ideal if they could pre-install the processor and cooler onto the motherboard for me.
So, there it is. Please, once more, let me know if this looks alright to you all...
I'm still weighing my options on the SSD... should I just grab the cheapest one available since there's really no point overthinking it given what I need to do, or is there some reason to get fancy?🙂
edit: regarding the motherboards—I just noticed in the Microsoft link that one is labeled msi-h110m (more expensive) while the other is just h110... now I'm stuck. Looking at the MSI website, I can't see any actual difference between them...
The price gap isn't massive enough to be the sole deciding factor, so I would appreciate your input on which one to pull the trigger on. That cheapest option offers the best value per GB, though I suppose an extra 16GB isn't worth losing sleep over either.
I am also a bit perplexed by the motherboard listings on CNN... It seems like they have two different prices listed for the exact same model, unless I am mistaken? :
As far as the VGA-DVI situation goes, I shouldn't run into any issues since I still have that DVI-to-VGA adapter lying around... 😉
Thanks for that new Microsoft configuration... though, seriously, is it actually possible to find anything cheaper at Microsoft? I decided to stick with my current case just because of those two USB 3.0 ports and the SD card reader. Regarding the other components you listed (the motherboard and SSD)—do you honestly think they're an upgrade over what I originally picked out?
I’m just circling back to finding the absolute best bang-for-your-buck combo, based on the list crimsonstag84 posted... If I check CNN, I also have to factor in $13 shipping costs, whereas everything at Microsoft seems to be priced higher... And I still need to convince the conservative side of my brain that the Voyager 2 is actually a decent case... 😁 It has two USB 3.0 ports, and since I'm a bit of an old-school enthusiast, I'm hoping that should suffice given how good the price is. 😉
It just hit me that I haven't even factored in the whole "two different DVI standards" drama yet... Does that mean my old monitor is useless if the motherboard only has a DVI output? Even if I use an adapter...? By the way, where did all the HDMI ports on motherboards disappear to lately? 😁 Or am I just looking at bottom-of-the-barrel budget boards?
That’s great info regarding energy efficiency and that decent processor! 😉 I've actually been thinking about grabbing a larger SSD myself... but then I end up blowing my budget... nothing crazy, but still, it pushes me over the limit (according to CNN)....
The Microsoft version:
LC POWER 7017B Case, MIDI - $265.00 240.0 GB KINGSTON UV400 SUV400S37/240G SSD - $540.00 Intel Core i3 6100 box, LGA 1151 - $1,006.05 ASROCK H110M-DGS Motherboard - $407.55 8 GB KINGSTON ValueRAM PC-17000 - $331.00 Total: $850 🤔 That's quite a bit more than what I saw on CNN.... once you account for a bigger SSD, we're talking an extra 200 bucks... whew...
I'm also a bit conflicted about using an ATX form factor motherboard; I suppose it's because I grew up with those high-end boards that offered all sorts of upgrade paths if you wanted them... but I see those are significantly more expensive now... sigh... Could I get a quick critique of this build? (Specifically the RAM, SSD, motherboard, and case—and by the way, can those USB 3.0 ports on the case actually be connected to that ASROCK board?)
Great... I'll need to dig through some similar options on Microsoft to see what my next move should be... Think of this as an "upgrade path." Down the road, I can always bump up the Dell memory, grab a faster processor, or toss in a dedicated graphics card...
An Intel combo wouldn't meet the requirements, would it?
Before I get too deep into planning, the time has finally come to buy a new computer. I recently updated the power supply on my current machine with your help, but now some of the USB ports have died on me, the network card is being temperamental, and one of the external USB ports on my case (a generic tower) snapped off a while ago. Honestly, working on this thing has become so sluggish that by the time the system actually boots up, I have enough time to sit there and contemplate the struggles of existence... I know, I know, plenty of complaints, but I just wanted to give you an idea of who I am: a user who pushes their hardware to the absolute brink of usability... 😁
The rig is about 10 years old (some parts are older, though a few components like the DVD-RW and the aforementioned power supply were replaced recently).
Please suggest some components that should reasonably last me at least 5 to 7 years, ideally with some room for future upgrades (CPU, RAM, GPU, storage, etc.), ensuring the machine stays functional throughout that lifespan.
I don't need anything high-end; my workload consists of 2D AutoCAD, Photoshop, Microsoft Paint, Office documents, web browsing, VoIP, multimedia playback, light video conversion/editing, occasional SketchUp modeling, and very rare 3D rendering... (given all that, heavy multitasking is a constant factor).
I want the experience to be smooth and snappy during these tasks, but I also need the PC to run quietly.
One more requirement: the build needs to be energy-efficient. Since it will basically be running 24/7, I want to keep the power draw low for environmental and cost reasons.
My peripherals aren't completely dead yet, so I'll probably squeeze another year or two out of them—mostly a 19'' LCD VGA monitor, a wireless keyboard and mouse, a webcam, a scanner, and a printer. Though, I'll likely need to replace some of that soon...
I'd like the system to feature a reliable, fast SSD (for the OS, apps, cache, and about 30GB of active work files which I'll regularly back up and sync to two old SATA drives I currently own—a Toshiba 1TB and a Western Digital 320GB).
So, here is my list: A case without a power supply (Mid-tower?), An SSD (it feels pointless to go below 120 GB), A motherboard (integrated graphics or discrete, your call), A processor (plus a cooler), Plenty of RAM, A graphics card (if you think a dedicated one isn't necessary given my specs, then skip it)...
To summarize everything I've mentioned, I already have: Peripherals, A DVD-RW drive, SATA HDDs (1TB + 320GB), A 400W Power Supply Dell Latitude Series
I'm based in San Diego, so I've mostly been relying on local shops like Best Buy (even Oracle is gone from the neighborhood now 😢), so I'd only look toward online shopping if it makes a significant difference in value...
Now that I've rambled on like this, I'm sure I've missed something, so please feel free to fill in the gaps, correct me, or ask questions. 😉
I can't say for certain how many days it's been, but after roughly 7 or 8 years—though I may be slightly overstating my tenure—of near-constant labor, I believe I have finally earned my retirement... ;-)
By the way, I've placed the order for the LCPOWER unit. I'm picking it up today to get it installed. :-)
It’s not just that it turns on; it actually delivers enough voltage and power that the PC stays running 24/7 in some sort of "turbo" mode. Even basic tasks like spinning up a DVD-RW or watching a stream on Stick TV cause issues... though honestly, I’m more worried about the rest of the components, especially the motherboard and the HDD-ove containing all my data... I’ll probably just keep it for niche projects like that, or maybe give it away as a gift to someone who actually wants to mess around with hardware! 😉 And since this "wounded" unit was in such bad shape, it required some serious TLC with a vacuum 😁, a bit of silicone oil on the fan bearing, and some "massaging" with a lighter and alcohol. After a while, apparently out of pure gratitude, everything seemed to work without any problems—but let me repeat: the inside is a total disaster. We're talking smells, black scorch marks, a blown capacitor, the whole nine yards... 😁
Man... thanks for the advice! I think I'm going to pull the trigger on that LC Power unit. 😉 My future GPU—assuming it isn't directly integrated into the motherboard or the CPU 😁—probably won't be anything too heavy-duty. The only time I actually need some graphical muscle is for occasional video editing, but we aren't talking about 4K projects here; just some light Full HD work every once in a while. Honestly, raw speed and "snappiness" aren't my top priority. What this rig will definitely have is a basic SSD for the OS, an HDD for backups and documents (maybe two), a DVD burner, and plenty of RAM. I'm assuming that 400W from the LC Power unit covers all that... well, I certainly hope so.
Thanks again to both of you for the helpful tips!
By the way, this setup is just going to be driving a 19-inch LCD monitor via a VGA connection! 😁
I get the logic that price usually dictates quality, but I’m really not a high-maintenance user. I guess these specific power supplies just happen to have decent certifications or people have had good luck with them. It should be fine for my needs—the only demanding thing about this build is that it’ll be running 24/7. It won't be under heavy load, but we generally don't shut the machine down because of sync tasks and other background stuff... so, I'm still weighing it up... Tomorrow I’m going to start hunting for more components for this new build, aiming for a total of $1,800 max. $667 Unfortunately, that's the absolute limit of my budget, and I can't justify letting the power supply eat up too much of that total.
@Timothy Kim60/">@@Timothy Kim60... I'll check out the shipping terms, thanks. I'm assuming this PSU will cover the requirements for both my old rig and the new one?
So, that LC Power unit with the 80+ rating gets zero points from you??
Do you really think I need a power supply that "heavy-duty" for the future build I described?
Also, do you happen to know if this unit would be compatible with my current rig?
I've been browsing the Instar selection, and they have some AKYGA units that are incredibly cheap—the descriptions say they're decent for the price point... what's your take?
AKYGA AK-B1-450 Basic 450W - $46
And what about this Zalman thing?
Zalman 400 w pas LX Series Retail - $90
Or maybe this one (honestly, looking at the prices, it hurts my soul to spend much more than $67 on a low-demand PC... I'm probably wrong, but this one mentions having certain certifications and all that stuff...)
I am looking for a new power supply unit for my old desktop, but it needs to be compatible with whatever components I pick up later. To be honest, I'm worried it might be time to retire this machine entirely within the next year or so...
My old Fortron 350 w has finally given up the ghost. It’s still technically running, but it isn't providing enough juice to keep all my components stable (before I did a thorough cleaning and lubricated the fan, the PC wouldn't even boot the DVD-RW, and everything just keeps crashing). I initially suspected a motherboard issue, but once I opened up the PSU, I saw several capacitors were bulging, and one even had a black scorch mark near the edge. It’s honestly a miracle this thing provides enough voltage to keep the system alive under these conditions.
The current setup consists of a Gigabyte AM2+ board, a Phenom II X3, 8GB of DDR2 RAM, and an NVIDIA graphics card—nothing particularly high-end. The GPU doesn't seem to require any extra power connectors, and there are two drives inside: a General Electric 1TB SATA drive and a hitachi 320gb drive....
So, this new PSU needs to handle this specific configuration (keeping connector types and other purchase considerations in mind), while also being fully compatible with my future build. That new machine will mainly be used for office applications, listening to music, watching videos, running AutoCAD, and general web surfing... Nothing overly demanding, though I'm certain it will be running in a 64-bit software environment, if that matters for determining the power requirements.
I don't think the PSU needs to be incredibly powerful, nor do I want it to be. My goal for the next build is to keep it as quiet and energy-efficient as possible, since it won't be a gaming rig. I don't see a reason to go over 450W, but I am certainly open to your professional suggestions.
I'm relying on local shops in San Diego, though I could order online. However, with these price points, shipping costs usually eat into the savings, so I think it would be more cost-effective to pick something up locally at San Diego retailers like Makromikro, Instar, or Links. I'm not even sure who else carries these things. 🙂
Anyway, please help me out with some advice. I specifically need you to clear up my doubts regarding whether a single PSU can bridge the gap between my old hardware and the new machine.
I'll include a few options that look decent in the post edit.
http://www.bestbuy.com/speakers-black.aspx I managed to track down a set featuring a digital optical audio input (60W RMS, remote included, etc.)... The price is practically pocket change. Honestly, if I weren't watching my budget so closely, these would definitely be sitting right next to my PC setup! :-) The only issue? They don't have an auxiliary input. Total bummer.
Well, looks like it's back to the 500 series or the 800 series for me... There are supposedly some much better options available for just a few bucks more: the 1250b model (40W RMS) or the decent 1800a version, which runs about $5 higher (50W RMS).
Since I couldn't satisfy my own craving for new gear, I figured I'd at least satisfy someone else's curiosity with this info... Thanks again, Tiger!
And now comes the catch... they don't even have a headphone jack... what a tragedy... :-D Having to crawl behind my computer setup—which is inevitably tucked away under the desk where all the cable management nightmares live—just to plug things in... *grumble, grumble*... ;-) But, fine, I’ll admit it: after watching a handful of YouTube reviews, I’m actually quite fond of these.
Yeah, I’ve been circling around those Genius models like someone hovering over a hot cash register at a busy Walmart. I didn't catch the Logitech ones mentioned earlier, so thanks for pointing that out... But I can't find any mention of them having a digital audio input (you know, the one where the port looks like a little little notch? :-) ). Apparently, the sound quality is significantly better through that compared to the standard 3.5mm stereo jack... especially since my motherboard already has that specific output available. Plus, if I hook them up to my DVD player, I can move them around whenever the mood strikes. :-D I’ve had plenty of firsthand experience with that setup myself. ;-)
What about these "out of this world" options? Any feedback? They look powerful... and... honestly, a bit pricey... :-)