I can't seem to get your image to load on my end, but I'm guessing you're probably running one of those older AMD chips... I've actually got a Pentium 4 sitting right here myself, and honestly, those things just weren't built for any serious overclocking, so you might be better off just calling it quits now before you run into trouble...
Man, I totally hear you! But wait, what kind of motherboard are we talking about here? Because if you’ve actually got a decent board in that rig... you could probably push that processor up to somewhere in the 3.3 - 3.7GHz range with some solid overclocking... As for the graphics card, just run the overclock through RivaTuner, though you didn't mention what kind of RAM you're running, did you?
I was actually eyeing that supertalent stuff from ADM and maybe some Crucial gear over at Links. You should definitely take a look and see what fits your needs, but if you ask me, those meme brands are still a step up from Kingmax 🙂
You really need to keep an eye on that 12V rail, since that’s where all the juice goes for modern builds... If it's rated at 10A, then you're looking at 120W, because you just multiply the Amps by 12 to get the Watts
The real headache is how manufacturers tend to stretch the truth when they list their specs... for instance, my Fortron unit claims to have two rails, one at 15A and the other at 16A, and some people use questionable math to think that adds up to 31A, which would be 372W... But that isn't how it works at all... because my actual power supply only puts out 23.75A, or about 285W total. The issue is that those two rails can't both hit their maximum output at the exact same time...
So, you can never truly be certain... you really have to hunt down real-world tests performed with actual measuring instruments if you want the truth. Sometimes, if you're lucky, a manufacturer will provide tables on their official websites where you can see exactly how much power all the rails can provide simultaneously
Take that Chieftech 550W with three rails, for example... in reality, only two can run at once, and even then, they won't hit their peak capacity, topping out at 360W
It's like how Corsair and Seasonic don't play those games; a 520W Corsair unit is often going to be more robust than a 650W Chieftech, and so on
My girlfriend is hanging out here with me and she's nagging me to wrap this up, so I hope I've been able to help you out a little bit 🙂
northerncrane33 said:I’ve actually been thinking about picking up a new rig for about three months now...🙄😳 Thinking of going with something like this: E4400 Gigabyte P35-DS3 2GB Kingmax Gigabyte x1950pro Chieftec 550W.......
If you think there's anything worth swapping out, let me know... I can grab parts at HG-spot or Ve-mil👎
That looks like a really solid selection, though I'm not entirely sure if you realized that specific Chieftec unit only puts out about 360W on the +12V rail... and since Kingmax isn't quite the budget steal it used to be, you might want to consider looking into Supertalent or maybe some Crucial Value options instead...🙂
northerncrane33, when are you finally going to pull the trigger on a purchase? I mean, seriously, can't you put together a decent setup for about 4k these days?...
Mladen, have you had a chance to try out SuperPI yet, and if so, what kind of temps are we looking at? I’d love to hear your honest take on how it handles a quad-core setup... I’m seriously considering giving it a shot myself!
"Bryan Wood49 actually told me the exact same thing, though if I’m being totally honest, I have my doubts about whether he even owns the rig he's describing; I can't quite put my finger on it, but I feel like he might be pulling our leg just a little bit... (no offense intended!)"
Raymond Hernandez14 said:It’s not really a buzzing sound to me... honestly, it doesn't bother me at all, especially since I actually swapped out my liquid cooling setup because of some minor error and ended up going back to this older configuration anyway!!!!
Look, if you seriously can't hear that hum... don't play around too much, just download EVGA Precision and set the fan speed down to 0, then you'll really notice the difference🙂
By the way, what kind of heatsink are we talking about here? I'm a little lost on the specs...
Absolutely stunning!!!!!!!!!!! Just incredible🙂 The only thing I’ll ask is that you please find a way to get rid of that buzzing NVIDIA component on the board... I have the exact same setup, but honestly, I’m just waiting for the day when I finally lose my patience, give it a good kick, and just go out and grab a Thermalright cooler instead...
Try setting the voltages for both the motherboard and the processor—maybe try an FSB of 1.4V and a VCore around 1.55V—but just make sure you keep a close eye on things so the temperature doesn't climb past 61 degrees... and if you find yourself hitting a ceiling there, then you've essentially hit a wall at 366MHz, which actually isn't a bad result at all...
Go ahead and run Orthos, then let me know if everything stays stable without throwing an error—be sure to include a screenshot along with those temperature readings...
Honestly, don't even bother trying to push the overclocking too hard because you aren't going to gain much of anything... except maybe a massive headache when you end up frying your processor entirely
northerncrane33 said:And why on earth would you pick that specific motherboard... I mean, wouldn't the Gigabyte DS3 be a much better choice if you're looking to overclock?😉
The 650i Ultra is actually a pretty solid board... though even with the DS3, you can never be entirely certain if you'll manage to pull some insane FSB out of it, since some people seem to hit a wall right around 330MHz... but honestly, that kind of thing depends on so many different variables... mostly just whether or not you get lucky when you pick it up from the store...
