Posts by swiftfalcon89

fadedorca66 said:You aren't going to find anything better than Corsair, honestly. As for those budget brands like Verizon or NEON? Total junk.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/evga-case-listing-example ?

Is this power supply actually any good$100?

And also, what do you guys think about either of these two?

Jeffrey Chavez6 said:The Xilence RW units are decent enough power supplies, though I guess it really just comes down to what they're asking for.

$67... which feels pretty steep to me, especially since Best Buy has them listed at $260 with a full warranty...

fadedorca66 said:Yeah, seems pretty fine to me.

So, what's the deal with this RED WING 420W power supply?

fadedorca66 said:You could just grab those overpriced ones.

Do these prices look alright to you guys?

Larry Ortiz5 said:The PSU is fine, though it really comes down to how much mileage it already has on it..

What do you think about these two?

http://www.craigslist.com/cs/list/power-supply-ads-6114627

http://www.craigslist.com/cs/list/power-supply-ads-5879285

http://www.ebay.com/itm/chieftec-case-listing-example Is this actually worth picking up, or am I just throwing money away?

fadedorca66 said:Just swap it out. You really don't want to gamble on some junk power supply taking your new GPU down with it.

The thing is, I'm flat broke right now. I barely scraped together enough for the GPU and the RAM, so dropping more cash on a PSU isn't exactly in the cards. If I could find something decent for maybe $100, $40 I might be able to make it work...

So, I've got a bit of a question for you guys. I’ve decided to pick up an HD6850 1GB DDR5 256bit card—honestly, the performance on this thing is solid, especially considering it only pulls about 130W at full tilt. My main concern is whether my current Corsair RM450 power supply can actually handle it. I’ve had some people tell me it'll run just fine, while others are telling me not to even bother unless I upgrade. If I really do need to swap it out, could someone point me toward the most budget-friendly PSU that won't flake out on me? I'm not looking for some high-end, overpriced boutique brand; I just want something reliable that gets the job done. The rest of my build is pretty low-draw: the CPU peaks at around 65W, and I'm just running a single 250 GB hard drive and a DVD-ROM...

Jeffrey Chavez6 said:If they actually honor it, you’d have to ship it back to XFX headquarters overseas. Shipping isn't cheap, and honestly, I wouldn't bet the farm on whether they'd actually make things right once it leaves your hands.

Thanks for the quick reply. Quick follow-up: in your opinion, which brand actually makes the most reliable stuff? Is it MSI, Sapphire, XFX, or Gigabyte? I actually just got an offer on a year-old Sapphire 6850HD that still has a year of warranty left on it...

Hey there, quick question for you guys. I’m currently chatting with a guy about picking up an AMD Radeon HD 6790, and he’s claiming that every single XFX card comes with a "4Life" warranty. Does anyone know if that's actually legit or just some sales pitch?

Henry Kim3 said:Dammit... could you please explain what PGP or PCIe actually refers to? 😁

Look, I'm no IT expert, so I'm definitely feeling a bit out of my depth compared to someone who actually knows their stuff... 😁

Anyway, I've got this old rig with a Core i7, 2.4 GHz, 64-bit, 2GB DDR2, and a 500GB HDD. Right now, I'm stuck using integrated graphics, which is absolute garbage... I honestly wonder how anyone manages to get anything done on a machine like this. 😁

Just grab this utility and check the motherboard section; I'm pretty sure it's PCIe...
http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html

What kind of power supply can I pick up—doesn't matter if it's brand new or used—in the 400-450W range? I need one that actually delivers what it says on the box; I'm not looking for some cheap unit that claims 400W but actually bottoms out at 350. My budget is around $100-$50...

driftingheron95 said:Sorry, if my memory serves me right, I couldn't find any mention of this 4880 version anywhere on Google. If it says 10.1, then it won't display DX11 features, but it might still be able to run games built on DX11.

That’s actually what I was trying to figure out—whether it can actually launch a game developed for DX11. I didn't phrase my question very well. Cheers...

Quick question for you guys: can this card http://ak.buy.com/PI/0/300/212359565.jpg, which only supports DirectX 10.1, actually run a game that requires DirectX 11?

Larry Ortiz5 said:$33 is asking more, but I'd try talking him down to $33. Of course, unless you happen to live in Springfield, he'll probably just ship it via FedEx. It's an older card, sure, but it’s solid—it’ll absolutely smoke your current setup by a mile 😁. My only worry is that since you're running a junk power supply, I'm not sure if it'll even hold up; this card pulls about 160W at full load. Maybe the other guys here have a better suggestion.

Thanks for the input, everyone. Feel free to suggest something better, especially since I'm picking up a decent 400W power supply to go with it...

Hey everyone, I was hoping you could help me hunt down a decent used GPU for gaming up to $167. I don't have the budget for anything brand new, but I'm crossing my fingers that I can find something solid for this kind of cash, especially since I'm currently stuck using an old ASUS EAH3650 512 MB 😁 ...

Here’s what my motherboard looks like: http://oi49.tinypic.com/11h7a6h.jpg

And this is my current power supply. I have a feeling I might need to swap it out soon; the box says it's 400W, but everyone tells me these cheap units are pretty low quality: http://s9.postimage.org/72888l3sd/DSC00793.jpg

Thanks!

Hey there, could anyone point me toward some graphics cards that sit in the same ballpark as this GTX 460 http://www.gigabyte.com/products/pro...px?pid=3530#sp? I'm open to both AMD and Nvidia options here. Honestly, even if they run about 5-10% slower than this one, I wouldn't mind.

Does anyone happen to have some 2GB DDR2 RAM sticks for sale?

Jeffrey Chavez6 said:Yeah, that’s how it goes sometimes—it just won't read. Same deal with CPU-Z. Honestly, I'm starting to think the only way to actually see what you've got is to look at the label on the module itself.

Fair enough. It’s not a huge deal, honestly. Takes me about a minute to check the physical stick anyway. Thanks for the help, everyone. Cheers!