Greetings, I’m on the hunt for some skinny jeans—not the "ultra-skinny" kind that look like they were painted on, just a decent slim fit... size 30 to 36 in men's... Does anyone know if these actually exist somewhere in the wild? I’ve been scouring ASOS and practically buying out their entire inventory at this point...
Edward Hall3 said:Usually after the 20th of the month.
Sent from my Xiaomi Verizon using Reddit
Well, I just received a notification on my banking app today letting me know the funds have been transferred. After crunching the numbers and factoring in those five days of quarantine, it looks like I've ended up losing $6.75...
Samuel Barrett33 said:Can someone please walk me through how Medicare actually handles these payouts? I was checking my portal earlier and saw that my primary care doctor marked me as being in isolation, but on my actual sick leave statements, she used code A0 for illness. I'm just trying to wrap my head around how this all works.
That's D0, which applies to those contacts involving isolation... If you are actually ill, then Medicare doesn't pay out anything at all...
Greetings, my apologies if this has already been asked somewhere else— does anyone happen to know if there is a specific schedule for when Medicare processes self-isolation payments? I submitted my request via email back on February 7th regarding five days of isolation from January 2022. I’m just trying to get a sense of when I might actually see that reimbursement hit my account, or if there happens to be some unwritten rule regarding how long these things typically take to process in practice...
Google isn't giving me any straight answers, so I figured I’d come here and pick your brains; here is how the situation is unfolding: - For work requirements, I went ahead and tested regularly, and as of Thursday, I was negative. - Later that same afternoon, I was in close contact with my father, who started showing symptoms between Friday and Saturday, and two home tests he took today have come back positive. - Am I required to enter self-isolation? It’s not like we live in the same household, and my own home test came back negative today... - If I am indeed required to isolate, who actually dictates that—do I need to contact my primary care physician to report being an exposed contact, or is there some other protocol?.. - Does the ten-day window start from the moment of contact, or does it begin once his PCR test officially confirms the result? - And finally, will my paycheck be docked because of this isolation period?
My daughter uses her PC for schoolwork, but she also jumps into gaming every now and then—mostly Minecraft or Fortnite. She’ll occasionally play things like CS, Ken, or whatever else pops up, though those are mostly just casual distractions... the first two are pretty much staples at this point. She's running a GTX 1050. Right now, she's stuck using this aging Samsung SyncMaster 2770 HD hanging on the wall. The way the white furniture reflects off the screen is just atrocious, and I constantly feel like the brightness is lacking toward the edges. Sometimes I think it's actually better if it doesn't glare in her eyes, but then other times I worry that the lack of clarity is just straining her vision... the viewing angles are a total disaster. I'm looking to pick up something affordable in the same size range (27"), ideally a bit more modern, so I was wondering if the Samsung SF350 27“ would be a solid upgrade compared to what she's currently struggling with?
ironharbor45 said:Help me out here. I'm looking at buying a new monitor, and naturally, I am completely lost... 🤦 It’s got built-in speakers (though I wonder if anyone actually uses those?), along with a 3.5mm audio jack. If I hook up a console via HDMI, I assume the sound comes through either those internal speakers or the headphones plugged into the controller. But what happens if I plug separate speakers—or maybe some headphones—directly into that audio port on the monitor itself? Also, would there be any issues if I run the console through HDMI but keep my old PC connected via VGA? How does switching between the two work, and is there any risk of weird audio glitches when I swap inputs? I'm thinking about moving the console off the main TV and onto this monitor because I can't keep up with all these endless Netflix series... So, how much of a mistake am I making? I think I already mentioned that I have absolutely no clue what I'm doing...
That 3.5mm jack is typically a headphone output, but since it isn't explicitly labeled as such, it might actually function as a dedicated audio input; for instance, the console audio travels via HDMI into the monitor, whereas if you're using VGA, you'd need a separate cable to carry the sound from your PC... Switching between them is usually quite straightforward, just by pressing a button on the monitor itself. Once you select the HDMI or VGA input, you should hear the audio from whichever device is currently providing the video signal. There shouldn't be any major headaches...
It was essentially acting as a dashboard... and honestly, it performed its role quite admirably. It held up for about a day and a half before things shifted...
Hello there. A couple of days ago, I picked up a new Fitbit Charge to mount on the wall; it’s supposed to serve as my video monitor, smart doorbell, weather station, and various other control hubs... As of this morning, it simply refuses to power up. I’ve already tried messing around with the button combinations, but nothing happens. I’m certain it isn’t an issue with the charger or the cable itself. Does anyone know if there is some sort of trick to getting it to boot up? Or am I stuck just filing a warranty claim...
((I used a small metal plate to help mount the device to the wall) The device is unlocked, all my data is accessible, the cameras are linked, though it hasn't been synced with Google yet.
I’m strictly an iOS user, so I’m a bit out of my element when it comes to all the little quirks and tricks found on Android. I have an 8" Vivax TPC-803 3 G sitting there, which mostly functions as a digital photo frame, a weather station, and—as of yesterday—a dedicated monitor for my video intercom. I’ve added the Ring Video Doorbell to the Arlo App on an Android device, and while notifications are technically working, they are incredibly underwhelming... they barely even qualify as a standard banner. Instead, the tablet just starts ringing loudly, and then I’m forced to scroll down from the top left corner just to find the notification and tap it to actually launch the app. The problem is, the screen on these tablets stays active throughout the day. Is there some sort of workaround or hidden setting to make that notification actually pop up on the screen, so it’s immediately visible the moment someone rings the intercom? All my settings seem perfectly fine, and I've ensured every single notification permission is enabled...
Hello there. I am currently struggling with an old HP Envy series printer that I’ve had for a while. It hasn't seen much heavy use, but lately, even after running cleaning cycles, the print quality has become quite disappointing... I think it's finally time to call it quits on this one. So, I am looking to pick up a replacement. The primary user will be my daughter for her schoolwork, though she might occasionally want to print out some color photos. Having a built-in scanner would be a significant plus, though I suppose it isn't strictly mandatory. It absolutely needs Wi-Fi capability and the flexibility to work with third-party ink cartridges. Ideally, it should also be able to manage black-and-white printing if one of the color tanks runs dry. To be clear, I fully intend to use generic, third-party inks rather than sticking solely to the big brands. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Oh, and regarding the budget... I'm looking at somewhere in the neighborhood of $800 to $1,000.
So, I’m running a Batman, but I’ve swapped out the fan for one with a potentiometer—I suspect it isn't even an OEM part—so I just keep it dialed down to the minimum. At idle, it’s spinning at about 800 RPM, averaging around 1200, though it doesn't seem capable of pushing past 1480 RPM even at its highest setting... My PC has been running non-stop all day today (my thermal management situation is frankly catastrophic, but that’s how I’ve lived for years without any *actual* issues occurring yet)... After spending the entire afternoon with the machine powered on—everything from browsing and watching YouTube to cartoons and gaming, all while keeping HW monitor open—it shows that the peak temperature for one of my cores hit 78°C. The others topped out around 75 or 76, with an average sitting at 50... The GPU spiked to 83°C, averaging about 52...
Is 12GB of RAM supposedly not enough for gaming nowadays? How absolutely thrilling...
There's a nice warm breeze blowing out the back of the case, and honestly, once the Harman Kardon heater upstairs kicks in, I won't even need to turn on the furnace this winter... ☕ View on imgur
It wasn't dusty at all, especially since I just gave everything a good cleaning yesterday when I installed the card. I've got HW monitor running to keep an eye on things. I pushed the GPU a bit today, and after about 15 minutes of stress testing, the max temp hit 79 degrees, while the CPU stayed a bit cooler... Is there any point in me digging through this software looking for blue screen errors? Will it even find anything? Since I woke up this morning, absolutely nothing has happened. I’ve decided against swapping it out; my daughter was playing some arcade-style house game, and the FPS is relatively low even on ultra settings. If the performance were any lower without "it," I’d probably be listing this card on eBay in a few months... As for the fan? Is there some sort of trick to tell it to just stay quiet until it hits 50-60C? I've been Googling, but so far, it doesn't look like there's an answer...
...edit Turns out this software isn't finding a thing, mostly because my PC isn't even logging the crashes... I noticed something rather strange quite by accident: Since my CPU fan has a manual potentiometer, I usually keep it set to the absolute minimum. I've never had an issue before. But just now, purely out of curiosity, I cranked it up to max and realized that after about 10 minutes, the fan started shutting itself off randomly. I opened HW, saw the CPU fan sitting at 0rpm... then ten seconds later it spins back up, only to suddenly stop again for another ten seconds... Once I turned it back down to the minimum, it started behaving normally again. It's entirely possible I'm dealing with a faulty CPU fan...
The Apollo Program just starts running smoothly, and then suddenly, out of nowhere, the image freezes while the audio keeps playing, followed by ten minutes of nothing but total silence... I didn't even realize the temperature had climbed up to 70C until it was too late. I hit a Blue Screen while I was just browsing on Chrome. There was another instance where, again, just during some web surfing, the whole system decided to reboot without any warning at all... My power supply is a Seasonic, though unfortunately, the label is hidden and I haven't gone through the trouble of peeling it off to check the exact wattage. I'm assuming it's somewhere north of 600W... I've been considering swapping things out for a non-Ti model, especially since my current GPU is capping me at 60fps. But then I start reading about how 2GB of VRAM often isn't nearly enough for high-end settings, and those visual details are quite important to me.
I haven't run into another Blue Screen today, though my daughter mentioned her computer shut itself down—or rather, performed a hard reset—while she was watching something on YouTube...
If any experienced gamers here have the patience and the desire to take a look at my setup, I can hop on TeamViewer...
Why on earth is there such a massive price gap? I ended up picking up an asus gtx 1050... Don't even ask me what I paid for it. It absolutely gutted my bank account... Install
The guy at the shop told me I need to turn off the fans... But nothing online says to do that. Turns out it actually needs a 6-pin connector...
