Posts by wearymason4

It was formatted as FAT32 (I don't even own an exFAT drive since I've never really had a reason to grab one).

I didn't get anything out of the gear 😁 , honestly I never buy my own phones. I just wait until my kids hand down their old ones to me and I'm happy as can be. Usually, I just use an older device for basic calls, texting, and the camera... I pretty much strip away every single app I don't actually need.

For my last birthday, I ended up with a Samsung Galaxy A71 instead of an HTC, and that adapter I mentioned? A buddy of mine had it, so we tried using it to speed up transferring photos. It probably didn't work because the HTC was running an older Android OS or maybe it needs some specific app...
On this Galaxy A71, I'm just using a USB-C to USB 2.0 cable
(it's the same one I use to plug into my old HTC charging adapter).

That would honestly be the dream setup. About a year or two back, I tried messing around with an adapter on my old HTC Desire 620 over at a buddy's place, but it was a total bust—the phone just wouldn't even recognize the memory stick 😢
The adapter looked something like this:

Hitting 1Gb/s over Wi-Fi is a massive uphill battle. You’d basically need both devices running Wi-Fi 6, plus you can't have any other gadgets nearby hogging the bandwidth and slowing things down.
If you use a USB 3.0 reader, you could theoretically hit 5Gb/s, but honestly, with an SD card, you're looking at much lower read speeds—somewhere around 1Gb/s.
Take a SanDisk Extreme Pro MicroSDXC card for example; even then, the read speeds max out at about 1600Mb/s.

I mean, you could probably get by with Wi-Fi if both your laptop and phone support 5GHz, but let’s be real—pulling the card out and using a card reader is still way faster.

@Nicholas Kelly3/">@@Nicholas Kelly3
The thread title is "How to move a video from your phone to your laptop"... so we aren't talking about sending files to someone else over the NET.
In the third post, they’re trying to test the speed of moving stuff via PHONE>NET>LAPTOP:
"A 2-minute video has been uploading for 10 minutes already... This is ridiculous. Google Drive
isn't cutting it. And it's not just one video; there's a whole bunch of much longer ones."

- Grab a thin needle and clean out the charging port on your phone to get rid of any gunk buildup. Then, give the cable another shot—or just grab a brand-new one if you don't mind spending a few bucks.

- Honestly, just pick up a USB 3.1 SD card reader. Power down your phone, pop the SD card out, stick it in the reader, plug that into your laptop, and move the files over from there.

Anything else is just going to be painfully slow.

Of course you can hook an old HDD up to a PC and run off its power supply, but you’ve gotta check if your motherboard even has an IDE connector for that PATA drive first. Most modern boards don't even bother with IDE anymore; they've moved strictly to SATA.
Most of those adapters you pick up online come with their own power adapter included, but if you're messing with a 2.5" drive, you might not even need it since USB 3.0 usually pumps out enough juice (about 0.9A) to get it spinning.

Don't even act surprised, I've seen just about everything at this point. Like, I once had this elderly guy whose PC wouldn't boot, and it turns out he’d just popped an empty floppy disk into the drive—of course, the screen was just staring back at him saying "no bootable media."
Another time, I had these two high school kids—electronics majors, supposedly—bring in a rig they built themselves, only for it to be a total brick... turns out they’d screwed the motherboard right down to the case without using any standoffs 🤣
Ever since then, I find myself double-checking every little stupid thing just in case....

Fast boot is an option you can toggle, but honestly, I don't even have it enabled on my rig, yet I still get to see how long the POST takes. It’s actually pretty handy if your BIOS settings get a bit wonky—like if the system is hunting for some hardware that isn't even plugged in, you'll catch that during the POST process.
Also, I was wondering about the best way to restart the PC... maybe just hitting the reset button?

Is there anything actually showing up on the screen so you can see what's hanging during those 2-3 minutes? (Assuming you turned off the splash screen in the BIOS, obviously)

" I’d love to breathe some life back into this junk, but I’m stuck on which CPU to grab and what this thing actually is
Motherboard: B450m pro4 ASUS,
G.Skill RAM 2x8GB DDR4
Graphics Card: GT1030-SL
It’s got two SSDs, a Samsung 860 evo 250 and some SanDisk one,
CPU Cooler Freezer 33 (that's what the fan says),
Solid Corsair power supply)
---------------------------
What would you guys even call this 😁
https://ibb.co/Jn9sHCC

Yeah, I've seen just about everything, honestly. Batteries shoved in the wrong way, that little CMOS clear jumper left sitting there, or even those annoying plastic films left on the negative side of a fresh battery... stuff like that.

Yeah, looks like it's stuck on a fixed 802.11g setting instead of being set to auto-select, even though it’s got dual-band support for 802.11a,b,g,n,ac.

Look, once you're back in the BIOS after swapping out that battery, you've gotta go in and dial everything back in—start with fixing the date and time, then hit all the other settings... just make sure you save your changes before you exit.

That’s all good, I actually went ahead and disabled the Internet Protocol in my settings too, just to be safe. 186 miles maybe try setting the location a bit 😁 further north

Based on what you're saying, the power supply sounds like the culprit (probably some blown electrolytic capacitors).
If it's still under warranty, I'd just take it back to the shop and have them ship it off to an authorized Dell service center.

...I don't see the point in buying a whole new mouse if the issue is just the cable (usually those wires fray right where they meet the mouse). I’ll either swap the cord out or just trim it back.
If it's a button clicking problem, it's almost always the microswitch acting up, so I'll just scavenge a working one from an old mouse and swap it in.

It’s pretty obvious why that's happening—you're pushing the same resolution from your graphics card, so obviously that graininess is going to jump out at you when you upsize to a bigger TV.
Unless, of course, you actually go in and set the resolution to the maximum supported by the smaller screen first.

Any Wi-Fi gadgets sitting closer to the router than the Roku could be causing interference and dragging down the speeds. Honestly, just try messing with its placement a bit—maybe tilt it left, right, or even flip it vertically by about an inch or two. It might give those internal antennas a better line of sight to the router and help the signal pull through better.
It’s such a bummer there isn't an ethernet port just to test things out...