What are you even talking about? You fans just scribbled some math lines on a napkin and called it a day. I had five, so let me break it down for you. A line runs between two points—in this case, those two last defenders from the Seattle Sounders. You draw the line through them; if they’re out in front, it’s no offside, but if they're behind the line, then it is. Math is an exact science—you can't just start drawing lines based on guesswork like some guy trying to mow a lawn with a broken mower.
I'm torn between the Samsung LS24F350HHUX 23.5 in and the AOC 24V2Q—it's an IPS, 23.8", 75Hz, 5ms, 250cd/m2 monitor Mostly just for office work, browsing, photos, and YouTube
analogheron19 said:Our fight means nothing if the fan groups won't actually stand together against the corruption. We’ve had so many chances—so many opportunities and so many warnings—and we just blew it... we kept scoring our own goals. Honestly? We’re all getting exactly what we deserve.
Look, my people have been suggesting this forever, and they still are. Why don't you guys just form a single organization so you can actually speak with one voice? Because nobody else seems to care about this besides us.
Seriously, how can half of you see a problem with BBB when these guys practically burned themselves out fighting for us? They aren't some pathetic little army—they're just a group of die-hard fans. Honestly, this whole situation with the Daltons is just a perfect example of where our society is headed. If the younger generation won't step up... well, they aren't as naive as we idealistic types were.
Jacob Newman74 said:Look, I agree we shouldn't underestimate the Republican Party's grip on things, but you're seriously overlooking the power of the people—or lack thereof. Right now, this country feels like a pen full of sheep just waiting for the wolves to pick them off one by one. Everyone just stands there watching. There isn't a critical mass in America willing to actually stand up to the predators, unless you count some sports hooligans. We're basically just a bunch of bystanders—instead of charging at the wolves to give them hell, we’re hanging out behind the barn fighting, drinking, and sleeping. That's the reality. And when a wolf finally goes after one of us? The rest of us just laugh and make jokes while they struggle.
Zoran Mamić is being presented today simply because he can be. Every scandal in this country happens because they have the room to do it. It happens because we stand on the sidelines looking for excuses. And the absolute peak of this stupidity? These retarded, manufactured divisions—Left vs. Right, Democrat vs. Republican, Red State vs. Blue State... it's all nonsense. We're just gnawing on bones while they laugh at us. Some things need to be done for the sake of America and our kids—not for some political party, some club, or some specific faction.
Everything’s sorted—they shot me an email after 8:00 PM and gave me a call this morning to say everything is ready for delivery. I picked up the Samsung monitor F350 along with a Genius KM-130 keyboard and mouse combo. The power supply wasn't included, so I grabbed a Corsair CX450—I figure those units are actually decent enough.
I'll let you guys know my thoughts once it's all built. I've never owned such a low-end rig before, so I'm genuinely curious to see how it performs. The whole lot came to $1000 cash.
crimsonstag84 said:Just order the parts and select the in-store pickup option—though some locations might not have everything in stock—and they'll hit you up once they arrive.
Yeah, fine. But I’m heading out to Chicago tomorrow—so I was hoping to see if I could grab the stuff then, whether it's just the individual components or the whole build. It's pretty weird that nobody is actually picking up the phone.
crimsonstag84 said:The CPU only supports up to 2666MHz—so why bother with a pricier kit? You probably need a case if you don't have an old 😬... one with a decent power supply backed by a 5-year warranty.
Zalman S2 case with an acrylic window ASRock B450M-HDV motherboard, AM4, 90-MXB830-A0UAYZ AMD Athlon 200 GE processor, 2x 3.20GHz, boxed, YD200GC6FBBOX 2x DDR4 4GB (1x4) PC4-19200 2400MHz CL17 G.Skill NT Series, F4-2400C17S-4GNT FORTRON 450W Power supply, HEXA 85+, 80 PLUS Bronze, PPA450A300/HA450
With a 10% discount, I'm looking at about $85. I keep calling them and nobody picks up—does anyone know if they're actually open tomorrow? If they are, I'll swing by Los Angeles and grab everything at once.
gentlecyclist16 said:https://www.goodoffer24.com/windows-...32-64-bit.html The site looks a little sketchy—but hey, if Best Buy was advertising it, it should be fine, right? If you go through with it, maybe just use PayPal to keep things safer.
An AMD Athlon 200 GE processor should be more than enough for Windows 10 and basic office work. Just make sure the RAM on your list is actually compatible with that board—AM4 is notorious for memory issues.
Thanks for the link. I pulled the trigger using PayPal—everything went smoothly and the key hit my inbox immediately.
Now, building the rig:
Current options on the table: ASRock B450M-HDV motherboard, AM4, 90-MXB830-A0UAYZ – $192 AMD Athlon 200 GE processor, 2x 3.20GHz, boxed, YD200GC6FBBOX – $153 DDR4 8GB (2x4GB) PC4-25600U 3200MHz CL16 Kingston HyperX Predator, HX432C16PB3K2/8 – $225 500W FSP Fortron/Source Hexa+ Power supply, ATX 2.4 - $130
I need a dedicated office PC for a spare room—something separate from my main gaming rig. The goal is speed—fast Windows boot times, quick file access for 5MB images/albums, presentations, and heavy 400-page Adobe manuals. It’ll just sit in the corner of a desk in an extra workspace.
After digging through various threads, I’ve landed on the idea that an AMD processor with integrated graphics should do the trick. I want decent, quality components—not cheap junk—but nothing crazy, since I might want to swap in a better CPU during the summer. I have an SSD 120.0 GB OCZ Vertex 4 lying around; I swapped it out for a Samsung 256 in my gaming machine, so I'd like to repurpose it here. For storage, I’m using a 1TB HDD, but I’m considering picking up a NAS (maybe a Synology with 2 x HDD SATA 2.5/3.5" up to 28TB total) so any advice there would be appreciated.
Here is what I'm thinking: Would a combo of an AMD Athlon 200 GE processor (2x 3.20GHz) paired with an ASRock B450M-HDV—$130or perhaps some other motherboard—be fast enough for Windows, PowerPoint decks with video/images, and light photo work like resizing or autocorrect? Alternatively, I could go twice as expensive with a Ryzen 5 2400G or a 2600G.
Regarding RAM, I might grab something better to allow for future upgrades—this one caught my eye based on previous suggestions: DDR4 16GB (2X8GB), DDR4 3000, CL16, DIMM 288-PIN, G.SKILL F4-3000C16D-16GISB, 36MJ—$296 Or is this sufficient for my needs? DDR4 8GB (2x4GB) PC4-25600U 3200MHz CL16 Kingston HyperX Predator, HX432C16PB3K2/8—$225
Power Supply: Fortron FPS 500W$130
As for the case, I haven't decided yet. Something small, no flashy LEDs, just needs front-facing USB ports.
For the monitor, maybe an AOC IPS around 23 inches for about $80—$300or the Samsung LS24F350HHUX, 23.5" FullHD LED, PLS panel, AMD FreeSync, 4ms.$329
And Windows 10: does anyone know where to find a decent deal? https://www.kinguin.net/category/194...VmA%3D%3D/
fadedorca66 said:He says your 3.3V rail is running low, but honestly, software readings are pretty much useless anyway, so you probably shouldn't sweat it too much.
If you actually want to know what's happening with that 3.3V rail, I guess the only real way is to grab a multimeter and test it directly on the power supply.
Thanks. Which part or connector actually carries that 3.3V line? Does the PSU have specific rails for the motherboard, GPU, drives, or what else?
From what I understand, overclocking hits a wall eventually—but if you’ve got decent cooling, everything should run stable. Any further clocking requires bumping up the voltage and all that other junk that just heats the CPU right up. Obviously, your thermal headroom and specific cooler type dictate how high you can push the clock. And at the end of the day, the whole thing needs to stay rock-solid under load. Overclocking exists because the multipliers are unlocked, but Intel doesn't guarantee longevity or stability when you start messing with it. That's my take, anyway. Thermal stress and those constant spikes in workload are definitely going to shorten a processor's lifespan—especially if someone tries to pull max performance using some pathetic, cheap aftermarket cooler.
It's fine; my whole family uses this PC and since I'm not home all the time, I'm not risking much with OC. My CPU stays on the ASUS default turbo mode, and I'm using more than enough cooling for that. My plan is to pick the fastest possible CPU compatible with my board and maybe try a little turbo OC, staying within that near 100% safety zone.
Ugh, I haven't visited the ASUS pages in years. Update BIOS Version 3603(Only for WinXP & Vista) 2012/11/2717.52 MBytes
My BIOS is 0902 from Sep/2011.
So what now? This BIOS version isn't meant for Windows 10 64-bit.
You guys are all right—I'm already scouting out which i7 to grab. My current setup has an i7 2600 3.4 and I'm ready to $333. But now you've got me second-guessing things with this i7 3770k talk... will that even fit my motherboard? Honestly, spending $200 isn't really a $100 dealbreaker if I know the chip is solid and hasn't been absolutely trashed by overclocking. One of your suggestions included liquid cooling, which implies that thing was running at some seriously high clock speeds. I get that it's a gamble, but I'd love to drop that i7 into my rig specifically because everything else in it is top-tier. I love PCs—I've built every single one of them myself using parts picked from magazines and forums—but lately, life's just been too busy and I've lost my footing. I thought it was time for an upgrade once Coffee Lake CPU arrived, but I didn't realize how expensive it had become; maybe I'm wrong and my components were actually more affordable back then? Also, this platform is six years old now. This is my third SSD—first it was a Vortex 80GB, then an OCZ 125, and now it's a Samsung 850 Pro series. Windows took off the second I swapped out the HDD. I usually swap GPUs every three years, so I wouldn't bother changing this one yet since I only need $1000 a tiny boost for a better upgrade.
Alright, thanks for the info. Now comes the hard part—thinking it through and making a call. I’m leaning toward just swapping in an i7 2600k, doing a light OC, adding some extra RAM, and then just waiting until things settle down a bit economically. I mean, look, this platform was top-tier when I first picked it up, and honestly, it still chugs through pretty much anything—just a little slower than it used to—so we'll see if we can squeeze some more speed out of it. The other route is to just bite the bullet, drop some serious cash, and go for a full upgrade. But I'm hesitant about switching to Ryzen—I haven't messed with those boards in years. Between updating the BIOS, hunting down drivers, and all that other tedious nonsense... I just don't feel like it.
Adam Moore3 said:With that amount of cash, you aren't getting anything decent from Intel.
You’d have to drop a fortune just on a motherboard to even fit a Coffee Lake CPU.
Plus, the cheapest locked i5 is the 8400, which costs nearly $600, bringing our total to $933.
Then there's the new platform—meaning new RAM too. 8 GB of DDR4 is about $70, so we're already looking at $1167.
So, what does Intel actually give us for $1167? We move to a new architecture and get a new, locked i5 with two extra cores/threads, paired with an overclocking chipset on a motherboard that's way overkill for that specific chip. That's the cheapest combo available, so honestly, if you don't want to go with AMD, you're better off saving your money. Just overclock that 2500K if you haven't already; I think it'll still serve you pretty well.
If you were smart and considered going with Ryzen, you could get a Ryzen 5 1600 + B350 motherboard + 8 GB of DDR4 RAM for $1000. You'd actually see a massive jump with 6 cores and 12 threads, plus you'd have motherboard support for future generations and overclocking potential. That would be a much smarter investment.
Alright, I get it. Looks like I'm switching platforms first. I'm bumping up the budget for a decent i5, a matching motherboard—ideally ASUS—and 2 x 8 GB of RAM, though I haven't picked a brand yet. Everything will be running a light overclock since I've got a cooler. Would that be a solid upgrade path before I tackle a new GPU later?
Most of this rig is about 5 years old now—except for the GPU and SSD—so I’m thinking it’s time for an upgrade. What components should I swap out first if I want to actually see some speed improvements? It's primarily a gaming PC hooked up to a TV, though I also use the monitor for movies and some light photo editing. Will my current CPU cooler hold up with newer processors and motherboards?
Requirements: An ASUS motherboard (I'll only switch brands if it makes sense value-wise), and I need plenty of USB ports because I have a ton of peripherals. Must be an Intel processor. My budget is roughly $1000, though I might have to stretch it depending on whether we decide to tackle the graphics card during this upgrade or not.
CASE: Cooler Master CM 690, Fan, FRACTAL ventury HP-12 PWM 120mm PSU: Corsair TX 650W, CMPSU-650TX, ATX2, V2.2, 120 mm fan MOTHERBOARD: ASUS P8Z68-V PRO, chipset Z68, DDR3, USB3, BT, SOCKET 1155, Sandy Bridge CPU: Intel Core i5 2500K BOX, 3.3 Ghz, 1155 LGA, 1333MHz, 7 MB cache, quad CORE COOLER: Zalman Performance x10 RAM: 2X 4GB, G.SKILL RIPJAWS X SERIES, PC-10666, CL9D-8GBXL, DDR3, 1333MHz, KIT GPU: Gigabyte Radeon R9 290, 4GB OC WF HDD, system: SSD 256GB Samsung 850 Pro series, Western Digital Blue 2 HDD: WD Blue 2TB storage + 2 HDD in RAID 0 for data, 1 TB each MONITOR: Dell U2312HM DVI, 23in, LED, 8ms, IPS OS: Windows 10 Pro 64 bit