Best printer for business cards, calendars, brochures, etc.?

Hello,

I have been working in graphic design for quite some time now, yet I find myself constantly outsourcing all my clients' printing needs to third-party shops.

Initially, I am not looking to sink a massive amount of capital into this—though, truthfully, I am still somewhat unsure of what constitutes "too much" given the sheer variety of equipment available.

So, I would be most grateful if someone could offer some guidance on which pieces of equipment I should acquire.

I believe my requirements include the following:

- a laser printer (which specific model, what paper size, and what other specs actually matter?)
- a laminator??
- a cutter (should I go with manual or a machine... which one?)
- a folding machine?
- binding equipment? (spiral or similar?)
- ???
- ???

Please, I welcome any advice you can spare.

Thank you,

p.s. If it helps clarify things... my typical monthly volume is relatively modest. We are talking maybe 200 business cards, about 10 A5 brochures, and perhaps 1,000 A5 flyers... nothing overwhelming, really. So, for the starting phase, I am looking for decent quality without breaking the bank. Later on, if things pick up, I might consider investing somewhere in the $10,000 to $20,000 range.

rowdyotter10 said:Hey there,

I've been doing graphic design for a while now, but I always end up sending my clients' stuff off to a local print shop.

I don't want to drop a ton of cash right out of the gate—though I'm not even sure what "a ton" looks like yet, since it all depends on the gear.

So, I'm looking for some advice on what equipment I should grab.

Here's what I think I might need:

- a laser printer (which one, what size, any other specs?)
- a laminator ??
- a cutter (manual or electric... which one?)
30>>A folding machine?
- binding tools? (spiral or something else?)
- ???
- ???

Any advice would be huge.

Thanks,

p.s. if it helps... my typical monthly volume is pretty low. Maybe 200 business cards, about 10 A5 brochures, and maybe 1,000 A5 flyers... nothing massive. So, I'm looking for decent quality without breaking the bank at first. Later on, if things pick up, I could probably invest maybe $10k-$20k.

It’s pretty tough to pull all that off with just one printer. Every tool is basically built for one specific job.

Honestly, you’d be smarter to figure out exactly what kind of paper/stock you're planning to print on first, then go hunting for the right gear based on that.

Working with a color laser is usually the easiest route, but man, those things are expensive to maintain. A cheap laser printer usually means pricey toner.

Your second option is a cheap inkjet paired with some budget Chinese ink. Everything stays cheap, but the prints aren't waterproof.

Then there's thermal inkjet. It's a promising tech, but the ink is still significantly pricier than standard stuff, and the prints won't be waterproof until you run them through a laser printer or a laminator to let the ink polymerize. There's also an A3 option out there, but honestly, finding a good color A3 laser in a low price range is basically a pipe dream.

Bottom line: it's not as simple as it looks. But you're probably looking at an initial investment starting around $1,000 $667 regardless of what you choose.

Well, I didn't mean that I was just looking to pick up a printer and call it a day..
If you look closely at my message, it’s pretty clear that I am asking about each individual piece of equipment separately..

Basically, I am looking for some advice on what to actually get from all of this..

A color laser seems like my most likely path forward... though I suspect the maintenance costs might be quite steep...
I am a complete novice when it comes to this kind of hardware, so I truly don't know..

And I wonder if an A3 machine would suffice, or if I should be looking at those larger formats..

My math suggests that I could probably get a laminator and a manual cutter for maybe $150 to $300 total, while a printer might run anywhere from $300 to $600... my main concern is simply that the upkeep isn't prohibitively expensive and that the ink consumption isn't too high or overly costly...
That is the core of it...

But then again, I will also eventually need a folding and binding machine. Is it more cost-effective to own my own gear, or should I just find a local print shop to pay for those services? Since I won't be doing high volumes, it might not make financial sense to buy them myself...

rowdyotter10 said:Look, I wasn't just looking for a printer..
If you read my message, you can clearly see I'm asking about every single piece of gear separately..

Basically, I need advice on what to pick from all this stuff..

A color laser seems like my best bet... but you think maintenance will be pricey...
I'm a total newbie when it comes to this kind of equipment, so I really don't know..

Also, is an A3 machine enough, or should I go for one of those massive ones..

I'm budgeting maybe $150-$300 for a laminator and manual cutter, and maybe $300-$600 for a printer... I just hope the upkeep isn't crazy and that the ink doesn't run out too fast or cost a fortune...
That's the main thing...

But I'll also eventually need a folding and binding machine. Is it better to buy my own, or should I just find a local print shop to pay for that? I won't be doing high volumes enough to make owning one worth it..

If you want brand new, definitely go with the Rex Rotary GX 3350 + Rear Feeder == roughly $667 with Full inks

If you're okay with something used + cheap ink
Then grab an HP OfficeJet 1100 + CISS

We have users on here using both types of printers. Both sides are happy, though one guy pays way less for the exact same result $1.25 while the other $0.33. We're talking a 4:1 ratio. With original ink, it's more like 1:1. It all comes down to the ink formula.

And if you actually need A3 format, the comparison stays pretty much the same

Comparing the Ricoh GX 7000 and the HP OfficeJet 2800—new units for both are roughly $750. A used HP + CISS would be around $1000.

Now, if all of that is way out of your budget

Just get a new Canon IP 4850 + a refill kit, or even some generic ink for refills. Your cost per print would be about 1:4:8 compared to the printers mentioned above.

If you're cool with a used printer, hunt around for an Epson SC 640 660 670 up through the 880 models. You can find them on a hot spot
Why?

Because these older Epson SC models have a 45-degree feeder angle. Almost all current or newer printers—except for the RR GX3380 with the extra feeder—use a 60 to 80-degree angle. That's not great for business cards. For instance, the latest Epson SX 130 has a 90-degree feeder.

So yeah, it's definitely not as simple as it looks.

rustysurfer79 said:If you are looking for something brand new, then you should definitely consider the Rex Rotary GX 3350 plus a Rear Feeder... it comes out to roughly $667 when you include the
ink sets.
However, if you are perfectly content with a pre-owned unit paired with some budget-friendly ink,
then perhaps an HP OfficeJet 1100 combined with an HP + CISS
might suit your needs.
We have clients using both types of setups in our registry. Both parties seem quite satisfied, though there is a noticeable difference in cost efficiency; one user finds themselves paying significantly more $1.25 while the other $0.33 finds much better value. Essentially, the ratio is about 4:1. With genuine manufacturer inks, that ratio drops to 1:1. It all really comes down to the specific chemical formula of the ink itself.

And, should you require A3 format, the same logic applies to your comparison

between the Ricoh GX 7000 and the HP OfficeJet 2800. For new units, the price gap remains similar at approximately $5,000. Meanwhile, a used HP + CISS would run you about $1000.

Now, if all of those options feel a bit too steep for your budget,

you could always opt for a new Canon IP 4850 along with a refill kit—or even some third-party ink from a supplier—which would bring your print cost ratio to about 1:4:8 compared to the printers mentioned above.

If you are comfortable with second-hand equipment, I would suggest searching for an Epson SC 640 660 670 through to the 880 models. You can find them listed on a local hot spot.
Why specifically those?

Well, because those older generation Epson SC models feature a feeder at a 45-degree angle. Most current or newer printers—with the exception of the RR GX3380 with its external feeder—utilize a feeder at a 60 to 80-degree angle. That isn't ideal at all for printing business cards. For instance, the recent Epson SX 130 features a feeder at 90 degrees.

So, yes... these things are certainly not as simple as they appear on the surface.

You see, this is incredibly helpful information. Thank you so much for sharing this!
It hadn't even crossed my mind that the entry angle was such a critical factor, especially when I start feeding in thicker cardstock... oh boy...

I think I have narrowed my choices down now. I am looking for an A3 laser printer with the shallowest possible entry angle and minimal ink consumption.
As for used equipment, I think I will pass. I tend to be a bit of a perfectionist, and everything I purchase second-hand usually ends up being used exactly once before I lose interest 🙂
.

And, of course, there are all these other pieces of equipment besides just the printer...

Regarding the paper cutter, I realized I don't actually need some expensive industrial machine for cutting massive stacks of pages all at once; a simple guillotine for 1 to 3 sheets should suffice... that should only cost a few dozen dollars.

But as for a laminator, I truly don't know... what has the experience been regarding quality? And which brand of pouch should I use?

rowdyotter10 said:Look, this is solid info. Seriously, thanks a ton for sharing that!
I honestly didn't have the sense to realize that the input tray angle actually matters, especially when I'm trying to feed in some thicker paper... ugh.

So, I've pretty much narrowed down my search. I'm looking for an A3 laser printer that doesn't take up too much room—ideally something with a really tight footprint—and won't absolutely bleed me dry on toner costs.
I wouldn't touch used gear with a ten-foot pole. I'm a huge print addict, and honestly, everything I buy second-hand seems to give up the ghost after exactly one use. 🙂

And yeah, obviously all those other gadgets too... except for the printer.

I finally realized I don't need some massive industrial cutter to churn through hundreds of pages at once. Honestly, all I really need is a basic paper trimmer for just one to three sheets at a time. It’ll probably only cost me a few bucks.

I'm honestly stumped on the laminator situation... what's the verdict on quality? Does anyone have a specific brand of film they swear by?

So, you ended up narrowing it down to the Rex Rotary GX 3350 with that extra rear tray. $400 + Sales Tax

Look, you've got two different versions to choose from, usually sitting around... $133 I'm sitting here with about a third of my ink left, and I'm wondering... $267 Plus sales tax on the Full capacity option. Basically, you're looking at 4 x 10 ml versus 4 x 30 ml. Later on, that one Full ink bottle comes in around... $77 Even with tax included, this setup is a total steal—it’s basically 50% cheaper than buying brand-new ink cartridges with the same capacity. And honestly? The thing works like a charm without any hiccups. Plus, you've got an easy way out later on if you want to switch things up; you can just convert the same printer into a sublimation machine using Gel sublimation ink.

rustysurfer79 said:So, you've narrowed your choices down to the GX 3350 plus an extra rear tray ( $400 + tax)

Look, there are two ways to go about this. You can grab one for roughly $133 which comes with about a third of the ink capacity, or you can opt for the $267 + tax version which includes Full capacity. To be precise, we're talking 4* 10 ml versus 4 * 30 ml. Eventually, getting a single Full ink refill will run you about $77 + tax, and using the bulk system to fill an empty tank ends up being 50% cheaper than buying new ink bottles of the same size. It works perfectly fine. And, if you ever feel like it, you can even convert that same printer into a sublimation machine later on by using Gel sublimation ink.

You are truly being helpful😉
Many thanks.

Now, if I may... just a few more questions.
Where in the States can I actually buy one of these?
What's the deal with the warranty and service?
And how is the ink consumption?

I've been poking around the internet quite a bit, but I haven't managed to find any concrete information regarding this specific model.

Thanks,

Here are a few tips:

1. For cutting, a small manual A3/A4 paper cutter is plenty. Just make sure you find one with a solid lever to hold the paper down so it doesn't slip.
2. For small batches—even just 100 or 200 business cards—a sharp X-Acto knife and a metal ruler work wonders. If you print the cards with crop marks (just tiny little dots), you can cut them all in about 15 minutes with a blade, and they’ll look like they came off a professional industrial cutter.😁
3. Scoring is also done manually: use a metal ruler and ideally a blunt piece of plastic or plexiglass in the width you need. For anything larger than 1,000 units, just take it to a local print shop.
4. Perforating is also a manual job with two ways to go about it: for bigger runs, use a sewing machine and a heavy needle 😁; for smaller amounts, just use a tailor's awl to poke the holes along a metal ruler, obviously.
5. Gold foil—which is always a headache with wedding invites and stuff—can be handled for small quantities using gold foil applied over printed text through a laser printer. For large runs (200–300+), hand it off to a screen printer because that gold foil gets expensive fast.
6. Don't send clients to someone else for printing. Instead, strike a deal with a shop owner where you bring them the business in exchange for a decent wholesale rate. The client doesn't need to know you're outsourcing the actual print. Same goes for screen printing... you prep the files on tracing paper and have them run the job.
7. You absolutely need a reliable inkjet, like rustysurfer79 mentioned, plus a black and white A4 laser printer. That covers small print jobs. Anything larger? Take it to a print shop. If you establish a relationship with them, you can get a great price without destroying your own gear. For something like 500+ B&W prints, a home printer can't compete with a cheap commercial copier. Or just buy a photocopier 😁—same logic applies to color and A3 copies. If your monthly volume is low, don't waste money on equipment; it's better to feed a local shop enough work to earn a discount.
8. Never buy paper, cardstock, tracing paper, or any other supplies at a retail store. Find a print shop and buy from them. They can cut everything to the exact size you want, they have a much wider selection of paper and cardstock, and some even carry specialty tinted stocks. Usually, whatever you need, a pro can hook you up with for the price of a couple of beers... and the pricing is usually killer if you know the right people. 😁
9. Never, ever, EVER send a client to someone else to get their work done. You can handle everything. You can take a job just like a client would, outsource it, and pocket a 10%-20% commission—that's a win. If you bring them a lot of work, you can negotiate a special rate. But if you send a client to a printer with *your* design already finished, you've made zero dollars.
6. You can do binding yourself, but stapling and gluing... it's much easier to outsource that to a print shop or an old-school bookbinder looking to supplement their retirement. It requires a steady, experienced hand, which is the most important part. Plus, you need a big guillotine cutter to make it actually look professional. That's why I avoid doing it myself... you could eventually pick up a comb binder and some different sized plastic spines; it's not expensive and looks good. It's worth it for brochures, newsletters, manuals, books, etc. Everything else? Just pass it on.
11. If you're prepping for print or screen printing on foil or tracing paper using a laser printer—don't use that same laser for thicker materials. You'll strip the plastic gears, and the tracing paper will slide all over the roller, meaning you'll never get the registration right.
12. If you really insist on stapling things yourself, don't buy a heavy-duty machine; just grab an electric staple gun. You can find them at places like Walmart or Target for about 50-$20 and they get the job done.😁 For the base, you’ll just need to have a metal cone custom-made. That way, when you fire the staple, the ends of the metal immediately fold inward.

Maybe this sounds a bit ridiculous to you, but call it what it is: rationalization... 😁 You can tell yourself that a standard stapler is cheap, or that you can pick up some used bookbinding gear for just $333, but honestly? The difference in time spent working with a basic bookbinder versus using something from, say, a heavy-duty brand like Swingline is negligible. Let's say you're stapling a hundred A5 booklets; one way takes you thirty minutes, the other takes an hour. Add in the several hours you'll waste just stacking the signatures for those hundred booklets, and there's no getting around it... unless you drop a fortune on an automatic collator, which is pricey and only worth it if you're drowning in work... 😬 Then you realize you could have actually managed without that $333 stapler all along...

You can check out some of that gear right here:

Regarding the blades: this is pretty low-end, but if you're broke, it'll get the job done. However, for this one, it’s actually worth the money if you're doing a lot of cutting—unless you want to blow out your shoulder using that jagged crap...

Here are the machines for thermal laminating: If you're moving high volumes, there are electric ones too, just so you don't wreck your wrist...

There are plenty of laminators out there, but keep in mind that if you're laminating all day long, you'll kill a cheap one in no time. If you have heavy volume, or if you're planning to offer this as a service, look into roll laminators. The film from a roll is much cheaper...

You can find similar equipment from brands like Rentz over at: . Compare those prices against other stuff like cutters and trimmers, and you'll realize why I brought up sewing machines and manual folding... 😬

Oh, one more thing. I don't know if you're doing that thing where you make promotional New Year's calendars—calendar on one side, ad on the back? That was one of my most profitable items back when I was running things. I'd send them to a print shop to print the calendar on one side in A4 sheets (8 per sheet), then depending on the ad requirements and quantity, I'd run them through a small inkjet or silk screen. Back in my day, we actually had to order custom tools just to round the corners on the calendars, and we'd beat them into shape with a hammer because corner rounders weren't available anywhere outside of professional print shops. Nowadays, those rounders are dirt cheap and an incredible tool...

@darkowl72/">@@darkowl72.... you really went all out here...

I suppose one would call that an exhaustive response
it's quite a lot of information, though much of it has already been incredibly helpful...
my sincere thanks to you; I am certain I will adopt several of these suggestions.. 😉

If you wouldn't mind, perhaps you could recommend a specific A3 laminator for a lighter workload--say, maybe two or three times a month for about five to ten pages..
And most importantly, what kind of pouches should I be looking for??

thank you

rowdyotter10 said:@darkowl72.... man, you killed it...

That's what I call a killer response.
So much info, and honestly, it already helped me out a ton...
Thanks a million, I'm definitely taking a few of those tips to heart.. 😉

Could you also recommend a specific A3 laminator for light use? Like, maybe 2-3 times a month for about 5-10 pages..
And most importantly, what kind of pouches should I get??

Thanks

When picking a laminator, stay away from the ones where you can't adjust the speed or temperature. Also, avoid the cheap ones that don't have heated rollers--

For the laminating material, just grab a roll and cut it to size whenever you need. It's pretty simple. But you really need a carrier sheet, and because of that, you absolutely need a machine where you can control the heat and speed. Just a heads up, those decent A3 machines aren't exactly cheap. If you go with a budget model, they'll probably end up overcharging you on the specialized film anyway.

I reckon this one hits all the requirements rustysurfer79 laid out. Honestly, who cares about variable speed when you’ve got variable temperature control? Check the PDF—it's got metal gears, heated silicone rollers, a heavy-duty motor... Rentz has been in the game forever and they make solid gear. That said, maybe rustysurfer79 has some better suggestions? He's still in the industry while I've moved on, so he probably knows what's actually happening on the ground right now.

When it comes to laminating films specifically, I'm completely out of the loop. It's been way too long... 😬

darkowl72 said:I honestly think this one hits all the marks rustysurfer79 laid out. The variable speed isn't even that big of a deal when you’ve got variable temperature to play with anyway. Looking at this Renz HT 330 L laminator on the site. It seems like a solid little machine if you need to get things done quickly. Anyone here used one before? I'm trying to figure out if it's worth picking up or if I should just look elsewhere. Any thoughts would be huge. Check out this PDF. We're talking metal gears, heated silicone rollers, a beast of a motor... Rentz has been in this game forever and they really know how to build quality gear. That said, maybe rustysurfer79 could weigh in with some advice? He might have some personal favorites he swears by. I'm out of the industry now, but since he's still active, he’s probably way more up to speed than I am.

When it comes to film, I’m totally lost. It’s been way too long... 😬

We’ve been running one of those GMP A3 units for about 10 years now. It’s got the variable speed, adjustable temperature, and those silicone rollers. When we first picked it up, it cost around $3,000... $1333Honestly, this thing is still going strong. You just have to give the rollers a little cleaning every now and then and make sure you're always using sleeves. We actually used it to run this packaging—basically a sandwich system using 35mm film rolls.

So, basically just your standard inkjet setup—premium ink, regular copy paper, and some glossy stuff.

Using 35um film with the GMP A3 laminator.

Check out this shot from the Adriatix site showing off their latest lineup. Looks pretty solid to me.
[Link to image: http://rustysurfer79.com/PRODUCTS/A_products/A_product_SCN5596_LL.jpg]

Check out this shot of the setup.

Check out this shot of the setup: http://adriatix.us/A_PROIZVODI/A_pro...SCN5427_LL.jpg

It’s important to note that this 35um film is the same GMP stuff. A whole roll—maybe 200 or 300 meters—runs about... $50 Plus sales tax... man, there's just no way to escape it.

The biggest takeaway here? When you pair premium inkjet ink with lamination, that print isn't fading anytime soon. Seriously, even after ten years, it still looks fresh.

If you're interested, you can check out this packaging today—it was made using the exact same method ten years ago.

Check out this shot of the Fresh printer from the Adriatix catalog. Looks pretty slick, right?

This laminator is a beast—it weighs around 12 or 13 pounds.

I can't see any images or text in that link you shared. It looks like a broken URL or just an empty image file. If you were trying to show me something specific, could you try posting the content directly or checking the link again? I'm ready when you are.

I really appreciate all the advice from everyone here...

After spending the last two couple of days grinding through some exhausting budget planning, I’ve come to the conclusion that, for the time being, it’s probably wiser to just stick to an A4 printer and a laminator... I don't think I'll actually need the rest of the gear quite yet... though I might eventually pick up a paper cutter as well..

In about ten to fifteen days, I should have a clearer picture of my finances—I have a few other investments currently tied up—so once that settles, I'll be able to decide on a specific model to purchase...
And then, once we hit spring or early summer, when I know for certain that my demand for larger prints will spike, I'll look into getting some A3-sized equipment. ... After that, who knows 😁 😁 ... maybe even an offset press 😉

rowdyotter10 said:Hey guys,

I've been doing graphic design for a while now, but I always end up outsourcing all my printing jobs to other shops.

I don't want to drop a massive amount of cash right out of the gate—though honestly, I'm not even sure what "a lot" looks like yet, since it all depends on the gear.

So, I'm looking for some advice on what kit I should pick up.

Here’s my wishlist:

- Laser printer (which model, what size, any other specs?)
- Laminator??
- Cutter (manual or electric... which one?)
- Folding machine?
- Binding equipment?
- ???
- ???

Any tips would be huge.

Thanks,

p.s. Just to give you an idea... my typical monthly volume is pretty light. Maybe 200 business cards, about 10 A5 brochures, and maybe 1,000 A5 flyers... nothing crazy. So, for now, I need decent quality without breaking the bank. Later on, if things take off, I might look at investing $10k-$20k.

Regarding that, here's a budget-friendly, tried-and-true solution you should definitely consider if you're in the same boat.

Check out this test print done on some top-tier, affordable Kunstruck paper. Any designers reading this will know exactly what kind of headaches you can run into when pairing certain papers with inkjet printers.