tubeless vs tubeless: help a newbie out!

I recently picked up a bike for some light exercise. Honestly, I'm too heavy to bother with running, and walking is just plain boring 🙂. I went with a Specialized Sirrus because I needed something beefy enough to handle my weight (currently sitting at about 265 lbs /grin). It came stock with some Zéfal tires, 26x2.0. I've heard people talking a lot of trash about them, so I want to know how reliable they actually are. I'm no expert, so I don't care about brand wars or corporate drama, but considering my weight and the fact that I have zero interest in calling for help if I get a flat out in the middle of nowhere, I need advice. Should I go tube or tubeless? Also, any recommendations on what to buy and where to find them?

I'm happy to pay for good advice with a beer at whatever local spot you guys suggest.

not sure if you saw this yet, but there's actually a huge thread over on Pinkbike all about this exact topic

http://www.dropbike.com/forum/viewto...p?f=14&t=14832

they've got the tubeless conversion kit in stock at REI now$100, at least they did when I swung by a few days agohttp://www.puremtb.com.au/534-693-la...s-four-kit.jpg

If I were in your shoes, I’d honestly suggest starting out with the budget-friendly route. You can pick up a decent puncture repair kit for maybe ten bucks, grab a solid pump for about fifteen, and then throw in another $8.25 spare tube just to be safe. If you eventually find yourself constantly fighting flat tires, then—and only then—should you consider making the jump to tubeless.

Don't get me wrong, tubeless is a pretty slick setup, but it definitely isn't cheap.

melloworca said:Given my body weight and the fact that I have absolutely zero interest in calling for a rescue when a tire fails out in the middle of nowhere, I’m looking for some solid advice.
I’m willing to pay for good advice with a round of drinks at any bar you choose.

one awl

three tire levers

one bike pump

one tube sealant

twenty patch kits

one sheet of coarse sandpaper

Just puncture the tires with the awl, strip them down, patch them up, and repeat that cycle until you've burned through every single patch in the kit. Then, go buy a new kit and get back on the road.

Good luck.

@melloworca/">@@melloworca, if I’m reading you right, you’re getting tired of patching tubes mid-ride... personally, I’d suggest pairing a puncture-resistant tire—something like the Continental Gatorskin—with a little dose of Slime inside the tube just so you can actually sleep at night... assuming you don't mind spending a bit more... it’s a whole lot easier than messing with a tubeless setup...

If you can't track those down in Chicago, I could check the shops over in Brest for you (honestly, what won't a guy do for a decent deal 😬 )

And if your only real concern is how much weight they can carry, the ones you've got look perfectly fine to me; they shouldn't give out on you (hopefully)... just make sure you keep the pressure up... besides, you could always go bigger, maybe something like a Maxxis Minion, even on a Jeep...

So, I spent about 155 miles pumping up my tires with a standard hand pump until they hit around 7 or 8 PSI, just to get them somewhat firm enough to ride,
but honestly, I eventually just got sick of the constant hassle. I finally caved and picked up one of those Slime kits—you know, the stuff with the liquid sealant inside—and since I switched over to those new 124 miles tires, I haven't had a single flat
once. Now I’m sitting here wondering if that’s just pure, dumb luck or if it actually works...

It’s totally possible you’ve popped more than once and just haven't realized it, since that latex stuff basically seals everything up almost instantly 😁

Walter Gomez16 said:It’s entirely possible that you’ve been getting punctured more often than you realize; you probably just don't notice because that latex sealant works almost instantly to plug the hole. 😁

Yeah, obviously, I know.
Look, I'm telling you, I just had no clue that specific rim was actually that efficient—at least when you're tearing through the brush or hitting those technical trails.

In my experience, this stuff works like a charm. Doesn't matter what caused the puncture, as long as you aren't hitting massive potholes. Honestly, sometimes I don't even realize how trashed my tire is until I go to swap out the outer casing. All in all, it's an awesome setup—way better than those clunky puncture protection strips or whatever else is out there. Haven't had a single issue with it yet.

The issue is that I hit thirty and somehow convinced myself I was basically Lance Armstrong. I haven't been on a bike since I was sixteen, at the earliest. I set my daily route to about 9.3 miles miles and now I'm already eyeing the mountains—I've still got a long way to go, obviously—but if there’s one thing I can't stand, it's getting stuck with a flat for no reason. Anyway, I stopped by the local REI to talk to some guys, and they gave me the straight talk: just carry two CO2 cartridges, and if you get a puncture, clean the debris out of the casing before patching it up from the inside.

Sure, why take the easy route when you can do things the hard way? Honestly, you should be carrying a spare tube along with your sealant anyway, just in case you hit a gash that's too big for the liquid to handle. But hey, if it makes you feel better, go ahead and swap out tubes for every little puncture. You'll definitely get faster at it with practice. 😉Maybe one day you'll even beat the time it takes for latex to seal a small hole—which is about half a second. 👍

I’ve got a tubeless setup running on my Har, and since I mostly stick to downhill, they’ve been holding up perfectly without any issues.

If anyone’s looking to get set up, I don't mind doing it for $50 per pair of wheels—I'll use my own Joe's tubeless sealant and tools, and I can usually have it done by the next day or so.

Ugh, man, I was having the exact same luck. My front tire had been holding air perfectly for like four or five months straight, and then today—right in the middle of this massive descent—everything just went south. One second I’m flying, the next the tire just completely loses pressure right when you say the word "disaster." I think maybe the sidewall took a hit from a rock or maybe the bead just unseated itself from the rim, but either way, I ended up nearly faceplanting over my handlebars. 😢

Luckily, I wasn't too far off the main road, so my girlfriend was able to swing by and pick me up. We managed to get some air in it at a nearby gas station, but all that sealant leaked out along with the air, so now I’m stuck needing to grab another bottle.

http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...hetto+tubeless

Check out this interesting video

http://www.notubes.com/movie_newdemo.php

velvetsurfer132 said:check out this pretty interesting video

http://www.notubes.com/movie_newdemo.php

Yeah, I mean, sure, but you really have to keep in mind that this is basically just a commercial for sealant
they probably packed about five times more sealant into those tires than you'd actually ever need

I mean, I didn't film it, but it’s honestly pretty wild watching someone ride through all those nails 😁 😁

Just pop some Kevlar strips between the tire and the tube, specifically around $20 for both tires. Then you're good to go...

restlesssurfer5 said:Just stick some Kevlar strips between the tire and the tube, one around $20 for both tires. Then just ride...

I don't share that sentiment, and my own experience has been entirely different.

The price tag is a bit higher, though that’s a minor grievance. The real issue lies with the overlap where the strip meets; you can try to hide it, but it's always there. That extra thickness creates a noticeable bump, causing a slight, rhythmic skipping sensation when riding on smooth asphalt. But even that isn't the dealbreaker. The overlapping section eventually "acts up," and after enough miles, the edge of the strip ends up puncturing the tube itself. Since you can never perfectly align that seam, the puncture site looks as if someone took coarse sandpaper to the tube.
Whether you rotate the overlap in the direction of travel or against it, the result is the same; it catches.
My track record with these strips has been decidedly poor.
And if anyone wants to get pedantic about it, those strips increase the rotational mass of the bike, which is far from negligible.

Dana Reyes5 said:I disagree completely because my experience has been quite different.

The price tag is a bit higher, which isn't really the issue here. The real headache is that seam where the strip overlaps; it’s unavoidable, and because the tire is slightly thicker at that spot, you can feel a subtle vibration when riding on smooth pavement. But even that isn't the biggest dealbreaker. That overlapping section eventually causes issues, and after enough miles, the edge of the strip tends to puncture the tube because you can never get that seam perfectly aligned. When you get a flat, the puncture site looks exactly like someone took coarse sandpaper to it.
Whether you rotate the seam with the wheel or against it, it still catches.
My overall experience with this type of strip has been negative.
And if anyone wants to be pedantic about it, that strip increases the rotational weight of the bike, which is actually a significant factor.

The cost was $19. Sure, there is an overlap, but you don't feel a thing while riding since the tube conforms to the tire rather than the other way around. I'm perfectly fine losing 2-3% in speed if it means I don't end up with a flat tire out in the middle of nowhere. You might notice a bump on a cheap commuter bike with thin tires, but on a 2.2, it's unnoticeable.