Brake rotors

I hear you, but honestly, it’s the same deal as brake pads and rotors—you can swap them out once the rotor itself basically disintegrates (okay, maybe a bit dramatic, don't hate me), or just when you notice those deep grooves forming. The difference is that the first scenario is way more sketchy. Why? Because once those grooves show up, the surface has basically become too "smooth"—if that makes sense—so there's less friction. You'll still stop, but it won't be as sharp.

Think of it like that old chemistry experiment from high school—put two frogs in a container. If you drop one into boiling water immediately, it’s going to jump right out. But if you put the other one in lukewarm water and slowly crank up the heat, the frog stays in the container until it's too late.

I know, I know, that sounds totally ridiculous and a little dark, but I couldn't help myself.

But seriously, it's the same thing with your bike parts—you leave them on there until your eyes tell you they're ready for the bin. Look, maybe you and I just ride completely different ways (I mostly do downhill and freeride, plus enough stunts to ensure I spend a fair amount of time kissing the dirt, so I tend to be pretty cautious), but I just don't see why anyone would take that risk, regardless of anything else.

ruggedharbor77 said:But honestly, it’s the same thing you do with other parts—you just leave them on the bike until they look worn out enough to swap. I mean, okay... maybe you and I just ride totally differently (I ride DH and freeride, plus plenty of tricks that usually end with me eating dirt, so I'm super careful about this stuff), but why take the risk anyway?...

I ride XC... strictly... I actually love the climbs way more than the descents... weird, I know, but that's just how it is... 🙂

I swap certain parts on my bike on a schedule, but yeah, I haven't bled my brakes lately... I didn't even realize DOT fluid worked like that, but since I have Shimano, I never really thought about swapping it... 😉..
So I don't really see what the big risk was by not changing the mineral oil? Since moisture absorption isn't an issue with that kind...

The main things I worry about regularly changing are the chain (and maybe the cassette if it starts skipping after a couple of chains), otherwise I just fix stuff as needed... My fork is probably due for service soon, too... I think I've hit the hour interval that RS recommends for the next tune-up...

analogseal72 said:I ride XC... pure... I actually prefer climbs twice as much as the descents... weird, I know, but that's just how it is.. 🙂

So yeah, that’s basically where we differ.

Don't hit me for this, but that's just my take—I can't really wrap my head around cutting corners when it comes to making sure every single part is perfect. I mean, the speeds and the risk of getting hurt are way higher in DH or freeride, let alone XC.

Everyone said their piece, everyone saw the point, and we all get it. Goodnight, see you out on the trails!👍

I’ll definitely join you guys on the trails soon, but I’ve been totally sidelined for a month and a half now... and looks like I'm stuck like this for at least another month too.. just when I finally picked up a new bike that I haven't even had a chance to ride yet, except for the trip from the shop to my house 😢 ..

I’m betting you just want a bigger rotor because it looks cooler, right?
Look, these brakes aren't exactly high-performance gear. You *could* technically swap in a larger rotor—assuming your fork manufacturer even allows anything bigger than 160 mm (go check the manual before you do something stupid!!) and grabbing the right adapter—but honestly, I’d just leave it alone if I were you. Neither the brakes nor the fork are top-tier, premium components, but they were designed to work together as a set. Sure, stepping up the rotor size will bump up your stopping power—though I have no clue how your braking feels right now or if you’re even unhappy with it—but you're also going to crank up the leverage on your hub, your fork, and the caliper itself. You'll end up shaking everything loose before you know it. Just leave it be.

Chloe Thompson7 said:Sure, bumping up the rotor size will definitely give you more stopping power—though I’m not totally sure how your current setup feels or if you’re actually happy with it—but there's a trade-off. You're going to be putting way more stress on your hub, your fork, and the caliper itself... honestly, you'll probably find yourself tightening everything down just to stop things from rattling loose before you can even settle into a ride.

That’s all true, except for the part about the brakes.

Actually, increasing the rotor size should really help reduce the overall force acting on the brake unit itself.