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Best external hard drives to buy right now?

Started by Jason Richardson5 · · 👁 29 views · 633 replies

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A Anonymous Veteran
3.6K messages
joined May 2005
#261 ·
Look, I know I can't just order stuff from the US... and honestly, I wasn't planning on it anyway. My sister lives abroad, and she was actually the one who mentioned finding this specific model. I just stumbled upon it online and wanted to share what I found. I’m fully aware that the Scorpio Black is the superior option, and in fact, I just got back from running errands downtown where I happened to pop into a shop and snagged a 2.5" 500GB 7200 rpm SATA II Scorpio Black HDD for $239. Plus, it comes with a 5-year warranty! What’s your take on it?
Brenda Moore14 Brenda Moore14 Newcomer
2 messages
joined Jun 2012
#262 ·
I’m looking for some input on which external hard drive would be the better bet here—could use a recommendation between these two:

1. I’ve been looking over the specs for these solid-state drives, and honestly, it feels like we’re watching the slow-motion collision of two different eras of computing. On one hand, you have the sheer raw speed that modern NVMe drives bring to the table—it’s like switching from a local commuter rail to a high-speed maglev. But then you look at the pricing and the availability of certain capacities, and it’s more like trying to buy premium gasoline during a supply shortage; you know what you want, but the math just doesn't always add up in your favor. It’s an interesting dilemma for anyone building a rig right now. We are essentially standing at a crossroads where the old SATA standards are being pushed into the rearview mirror, yet the cost per gigabyte for the top-tier stuff still carries that "early adopter" tax. It reminds me of when everyone was scrambling to upgrade from mechanical hard drives to early SSDs; there was this palpable sense of excitement mixed with a heavy dose of "is this actually worth my paycheck?" If you're someone who prioritizes lightning-fast boot times and near-instantaneous file transfers for massive video projects, the investment makes sense. However, if you're just looking for a reliable workhorse to keep your system from choking on basic multitasking, chasing the absolute bleeding edge might be a bit like buying a Ferrari to drive to the grocery store in a suburb of Chicago—impressive, certainly, but perhaps a little overkill for the daily grind. You have to weigh that performance delta against the reality of your actual workflow.

2. The conversation surrounding high-speed hard drives often feels like a debate over whether you actually need a Ferrari to drive to the grocery store, but when we look at the technical specifications for these 15,000 RPM enterprise-grade disks, the nuance becomes clear. It isn't just about raw speed; it’s about the specific architecture required for heavy-duty server environments where latency is the enemy. If you take a look at the current market offerings—much like comparing a standard consumer Dell workstation to a massive, high-availability data center setup in Northern Virginia—you realize that these high-RPM drives are built for a very particular kind of heavy lifting. They aren't meant for sitting in a home office or powering a gaming rig; they are designed for the relentless, constant read/write cycles found in large-scale American enterprise infrastructures. There is an ongoing discussion regarding whether the jump from 10,000 RPM to 15,000 RPM provides enough of a performance delta to justify the premium price tag. In a vacuum, yes, the reduction in seek time is measurable. However, in the modern landscape, where NVMe SSDs have effectively decimated the traditional HDD's dominance in high-performance computing, these spinning disks are increasingly being relegated to niche roles. They occupy that middle ground where you need more capacity than a small SSD can provide, but significantly better responsiveness than a standard mass-storage array. It’s a bit like choosing between a reliable Ford F-150 and a specialized piece of industrial machinery. You don't buy the industrial gear because it's "faster" for daily errands; you buy it because it is engineered to withstand a level of continuous, punishing stress that would cause a standard consumer product to fail prematurely. When you are managing database workloads for a major US financial institution or a massive cloud provider, those milliseconds saved during a disk seek aren't just trivialities—they are the difference between a smooth operation and a bottlenecked system.

3. The technical specifications listed here regarding high-speed solid-state drives—specifically those pushing the 15,000 RPM threshold in terms of performance equivalence—are quite interesting when you look at them through the lens of enterprise-grade infrastructure. It’s one thing to talk about raw speed in a vacuum, but it’s another entirely to consider how these components actually behave once they are integrated into a massive data center architecture, much like the server farms managed by Amazon Web Services or Google. When we discuss storage throughput at this level, we aren't just talking about moving files from point A to point B; we are discussing the fundamental latency limits that dictate how quickly an entire network can respond to user queries. If you compare these specs to the standard consumer-grade SSDs you might find at a Best Buy, the gap in sustained IOPS (Input/Output Operations Per Second) is staggering. It is less like upgrading from a sedan to a sports car and more like switching from a bicycle to a jet engine. In a high-frequency trading environment in New York or a heavy-duty cloud computing hub in Northern Virginia, those micro-seconds of saved latency are essentially the difference between profit and obsolescence. One has to wonder, though, about the thermal management required for hardware operating at such intense velocities. Much like trying to run a high-end gaming rig in a small, unventilated room, pushing these drives to their absolute limit without a sophisticated cooling solution is a recipe for thermal throttling. You might see impressive numbers on a spec sheet, but if the heat dissipation isn't handled with the precision of a NASA cooling system, those theoretical speeds will evaporate the moment the workload gets heavy. It is a classic case of potential versus reality.

4. The sheer physics behind high-performance storage is often overlooked in favor of flashy SSD marketing, but there’s a certain pragmatic elegance to a hard drive spinning at 15,000 RPM. It’s like comparing a standard sedan to a finely tuned muscle car; while the sedan might get you to the grocery store, the muscle car is built for the specific intensity of enterprise workloads where milliseconds feel like lifetimes. When you're looking at these heavy-duty drives, you aren't just buying capacity—you're buying velocity and reliability under pressure. In a massive data center in Northern Virginia or a high-frequency trading hub in Chicago, the latency introduced by a slower, consumer-grade disk isn't just an inconvenience; it's a systemic bottleneck. These 15K RPM units are engineered for that exact scenario, providing the rapid seek times necessary when a database is being hammered by thousands of simultaneous requests. It’s easy to fall into the trap of thinking "more space equals better," but in the realm of mission-critical infrastructure, IOPS (Input/Output Operations Per Second) is the true currency. A drive that can spin through data with this kind of rotational speed is designed to minimize the physical movement of the actuator arm, effectively shaving down those precious moments of waiting. It’s the difference between reading a book page-by-page and having someone flip through them at lightning speed. Of course, you pay a premium for that agility, and you certainly have to account for the heat and power draw, but for anyone managing serious enterprise architecture, it’s a calculated necessity rather than a luxury.

5. It’s funny how we tend to overlook the most fundamental components of our digital lives until they start failing us at the worst possible moment. I was looking through some procurement data recently, and it struck me how much attention we pay to flashy processors or high-end GPUs while treating storage like an afterthought—an invisible utility that just "works" until it doesn't. We see these massive tenders being floated for solid-state drives, and it really highlights the sheer scale of modern data requirements. It isn't just about having enough space anymore; it’s about the velocity of access. If you're running a server farm in Chicago or managing a massive database for a firm in New York, you aren't just buying "storage." You are buying latency management, endurance, and the peace of mind that comes from knowing your hardware won't choke under a heavy workload. The logic behind these large-scale acquisitions is often quite clinical. When a major corporation or a government agency puts out a call for bids on enterprise-grade SSDs, they aren't shopping around for the cheapest consumer drive you'd find at a Best Buy. They are looking for specific IOPS ratings, TBW (Total Bytes Written) thresholds, and reliability metrics that make sense for a ten-year lifecycle. It’s a different league entirely. It’s the difference between buying a reliable commuter car and spec'ing out a fleet of heavy-duty semi-trucks for a logistics giant like FedEx. One gets you to the grocery store; the other keeps the national economy moving. There is a certain irony in watching these bidding processes unfold. On one hand, you have the technical necessity of upgrading infrastructure to keep up with the relentless creep of data bloat. On the other, you have the bureaucratic dance of procurement where every specification is a potential hurdle. It's a slow, methodical grind, but it's necessary. We can't expect the backbone of our digital infrastructure to be built on shaky foundations.

I’m looking for a hard drive with a USB 3.0 connection—something in the 1TB range or higher. My main priority is read speeds; I need it to be fast enough to handle moving large movie files around without the transfer bar feeling like it's crawling through molasses. Any recommendations? $333. 🙂
Benjamin King2 Benjamin King2 Active Member
138 messages
joined Apr 2007
#263 ·
I’d personally point you toward the Apple model as your top pick—it’s snappy, clocking in at about 80 MB/s transfer speeds, plus you get a solid 3-year warranty. Your runner-up would be the Adata option; even though it's running a 5400 rpm drive, the software they provide for driver upgrades actually helps bump up the read speeds, so you can probably expect around 50 MB/s when you're moving larger files. As for Western Digital—in my experience, they're just way too unreliable. Honestly, the vast majority of drives I've dealt with that ended up being total headaches were Western Digital units.
redhawk76 redhawk76 Active Member
60 messages
joined May 2013
#264 ·
What are your thoughts on this:

@Benjamin King2/">@@Benjamin King2 - I recall seeing some comments on previous pages where you were criticizing Verbatim for being subpar. Was that a critique directed at the manufacturer as a whole, or were you referring to a specific model or series?
If this isn't the right choice, what would be your recommendation (even a 750GB drive, or perhaps something larger)?
Benjamin King2 Benjamin King2 Active Member
138 messages
joined Apr 2007
#265 ·
Verbatim tends to pack their enclosures with slow drives—honestly, they’re lagging pretty far behind the competition in that department—and their design choices can be... let's just say "questionable" at times. Most of the heat was really on those bottom-tier junk drives that AT&T used to bundle for cheap, which basically died as fast as you could blink them.

500 GB

750 GB:

SanDisk drives generally offer the best bang for your buck when you're looking at the price-to-capacity-to-performance ratio.
Noah Flores2 Noah Flores2 Newcomer
9 messages
joined Jul 2012
#266 ·
Hey there,

So, I’ve been spending way too much time scrolling through Best Buy's website trying to pick up an external hard drive, but man, the selection is just... underwhelming. It feels like they either have maybe one or two options in stock, or if you want anything decent, you're stuck waiting forever for a special order.

It’s honestly pretty frustrating; they’ll claim they have something in stock, and then suddenly, nope, not anymore. And then, of course, they try to nudge you toward some off-brand, bottom-tier junk just so they can close the sale.

I don't really get why it's such a hassle to just buy a simple drive. I’m also a bit wary about ordering stuff online because I've had a few bad experiences in the past, so I’d really rather just walk into a physical store if I could.

Does anyone know of any reliable shops out there that actually have what they say they have?

From what I’ve gathered so far, those big 3.5" drives have much faster transfer speeds, but they're bulkier and apparently need their own power source. Does every single 3.5" drive require a separate plug?

I’m looking for something around 1000 GB. Since I have a ton of important data I need to stash away, I really need something high-quality that isn't going to fail on me anytime soon. 😢

Also, I need a dual-interface setup—something with both USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 ports. My current laptop doesn't have USB 3.0, but I’ll eventually be moving over to a laptop that has both, and I’d love to save some time when transferring files from my desktop using the USB 3.0 port later on.

I was thinking maybe Western Digital would be the best bet?

Setting aside the weight and the fact that they're a pain to move around, are those 3.5" drives actually better quality? I wouldn't be carrying it around with me constantly, so maybe that doesn't matter as much.

I assume everything will be fully transitioned to USB 3.0 soon enough, so I’m a little worried about potentially running into issues or losing data access on my old PC that only has USB 2.0 ports.

And between the 5400 rpm and 7200 rpm models, which one is actually worth getting?

Could someone explain what all this technical jargon means? Like, what exactly is the drive speed, or what does the cache size—like 8 MB—actually signify?

How does the power situation work exactly? Where do you even plug it in, and is it a huge headache to deal with?

I haven't bought an external drive before, so I'm feeling a bit lost with all this. I tried digging through some old forum threads, but most of them are so outdated they aren't even helpful anymore.

Thanks in advance for the help.
Benjamin King2 Benjamin King2 Active Member
138 messages
joined Apr 2007
#267 ·
Where can I actually find some decent shops around here?

Transfer speeds really just come down to how fast the drive itself is—the 3.5" ones aren't any faster, they just hold more data.

USB 2.0 and 3.0 are totally compatible with each other.

Drive size—you know, 3.5" versus 2.5"—has absolutely nothing to do with the actual build quality.

You just plug the power adapter into a wall outlet. I don't get what you mean by "more effort," honestly.
Noah Flores2 Noah Flores2 Newcomer
9 messages
joined Jul 2012
#268 ·
Benjamin King2 said:I mean, it really depends on what you’re actually hunting for, I guess... if you're looking for decent spots, where do people even go these days? It’s kind of a toss-up depending on whether you want big-box convenience or something a bit more specialized, though I suppose most people just stick to the usual suspects. Where are the good ones located, anyway?

I mean, at the end of the day, transfer speeds really just come down to how fast the actual drive can spin, so I guess it’s kind of a moot point whether you're looking at a 3.5" model or something else; those larger drives basically just offer more storage space, which is great if you need the room, but they aren't magically faster just because they're bigger.

So, I guess if you're sitting there wondering whether you can actually plug a USB 3.0 drive into an old-school USB 2.0 port without everything spontaneously combusting, the short answer is that they're perfectly compatible, though maybe not in the way you’d hope. It's one of those things where everything technically works together, but you aren't exactly getting that lightning-fast transfer speed you were dreaming about when you bought the newer gear, so you're basically just running at the pace of a snail on a Sunday stroll. It’s fine, really—it works, it's compatible, but don't expect any miracles from it.

I mean, honestly, I feel like we need to have this conversation again because people just won't listen: drive size doesn't actually dictate the quality of the hardware, so stop acting like a 3.5-inch drive is inherently "better" than a 2.5-inch one. I guess some people just see those bigger, bulkier desktop drives and assume they’re somehow more premium or reliable, which is probably just a total misconception, maybe? It's all about what's going on under the hood, really. You can have a tiny little laptop drive that performs beautifully while a massive desktop unit struggles, so yeah, the physical footprint doesn't tell you a single thing about how well it's actually going to hold up over time.

So, you plug the power supply into the wall outlet, right? And then you’re left wondering... what exactly does "more taxing" actually mean in this context? I guess it could be anything, really—maybe it's about the electrical load, or perhaps it's just some weird technical jargon that doesn't quite land. It's all a bit vague, isn't it? Maybe.

So, I’m currently hanging out in Washington, D.C.😍 I mean, if it’s possible to just swing by the shop and actually take a look at everything in person, that would be great, because honestly, my luck with buying electronics online has been pretty much nonexistent lately. I guess I just haven't had the best run of things when it comes to clicking "buy" and hoping for the best, so maybe seeing the gear firsthand might save me some headaches.😢

It honestly feels like, if you look around here, the 5400 rpm drives are pretty much everywhere you turn, I guess. It seems like that’s just the standard most people are settling for these days, maybe because they're just so common in the US market.

It’s kind of funny, actually—whenever I head over to a site like Amazon to see what might fit my needs, if I try to be even slightly specific with my search filters, the whole selection just sort of... evaporates. You start with this massive, overwhelming list of options, but the second you try to narrow things down to something that actually makes sense for what you're doing, suddenly there’s almost nothing left to look at. It’s like the more you know about what you want, the less the internet seems to have to offer you, I guess. Maybe it's just me, but it feels like the options vanish into thin air the moment you get picky.

So, if I’m looking at that particular page and actually taking all those specific brands into account—you know, the whole lineup like Adata, Dell, IBM, General Electric, HP, Intel, Dell, Samsung, Seagate, Verbatim, Western Digital, SanDisk, and Western Digital—I guess you could say there's a pretty massive list to sift through. It’s kind of a lot, really, if you think about it, but maybe that's just how it goes when you're trying to make sense of all these different options at once.

Then if I decide to go with the external option—well, yeah, I’ve already got like 108 different models sitting there ready to be picked.

If I decide to go with the 2.5-inch drives, then the list of selected models just drops down to about 66, I guess.

So, if I decide to tweak the capacity filters to anything between 450 and 6,000 GB, then—I guess—it suddenly jumps up to about 54 results, which feels like a bit much, maybe.

The thing is, I was looking through the specs, and it seems like none of those 54 options actually offer anything better than 5400 rpm, which I guess is kind of a letdown if you were hoping for a bit more kick.

So, if I decide to go with the 5400 rpm drives, then we're looking at a selection of only about 33 external drives, which I guess isn't exactly a massive catalog or anything, but maybe that's just how it goes.

Could you maybe walk me through what all these values actually signify? I'm trying to wrap my head around it, but I guess I'm just a bit lost.

So, I was looking through this list of 33 drives, and I’m kind of staring at it wondering what the deal is, because out of the whole bunch, only two of them actually use a SATA interface—the rest don't seem to fit that category at all. It makes you wonder why they're even grouped together like this, I guess. But if we're talking about which interface is actually the "best" between ATA, SATA, SAS, and SCSI, it really depends on what you're trying to pull off, though it's a bit of a weird question when the vast majority of your options aren't even SATA. I suppose if you're just doing basic stuff, SATA is fine, but then you have SAS and SCSI which are more for those heavy-duty enterprise setups, though most people probably won't ever need to touch them. It's a bit of a toss-up, really, especially since your selection here is so lopsided.

So, you're seeing that there's only 8MB of cache available, and you're wondering what on earth that actually implies in the grand scheme of things? I guess you could look at it as some kind of tiny, high-speed memory buffer living right inside the drive itself, if that makes sense. It’s not like your main system RAM or anything, but more like a little staging area where the drive holds onto data for a split second before moving it around, which I suppose helps speed things up slightly during certain tasks. It's basically just a small pool of super-fast memory tucked away in the hardware to help manage the flow of information, though 8MB is definitely on the lower side by modern standards, I guess.

So, I mean, if you're stuck with nothing but USB 2.0 ports on your machine—which, let’s be honest, feels like living in the stone age—can you actually plug a USB 3.0 cable into them? I guess the short answer is yes, you can, because they're physically compatible, but there's a bit of a catch that might make you roll your eyes. It'll work, sure, but you won't get those blazing fast speeds everyone raves about; everything will just crawl along at that old USB 2.0 pace, which is kind of a bummer if you're trying to move massive files. So, yeah, it fits, but don't expect any miracles.

So, I'm sitting here looking at my USB 3.0 port, and I noticed it’s got that distinct blue plastic inside, which I guess is how you tell it apart from the older stuff, right? It's positioned right there, immediately adjacent to the HDMI port. I mean, I was just staring at it and thinking about the layout, though I suppose most people probably don't give it a second thought unless they're actually trying to plug something in, I guess.


So, I was over at the store today, and the guy behind the counter was trying really hard to convince me that these 3.5-inch drives are somehow much faster when it comes to data transfer speeds, which, I don't know, maybe he's right? I guess it's possible, though I feel like there's a lot of nuance there that people tend to gloss over, but anyway, that’s what he told me.🤣 It’s kind of funny, actually—if you think about it—because that thing was only ever sitting there in the display window.🤣 It wasn't exactly life-changing or anything, but I guess it feels a bit more substantial than those flimsy 2.5-inch drives, if that makes any sense. Though, honestly, I probably wouldn't have minded going with a 3.5-inch model instead; maybe I just like having something with a little more heft to it.

I guess it really just comes down to how much you value convenience versus raw capacity, though I suppose there isn't a single right answer, if that makes sense. If you go with a 2.5-inch drive, things are pretty straightforward since they usually just plug right into a USB port and call it a day, which is nice. But then you have those 3.5-inch drives, and man, those can be a bit of a hassle because they almost always require their own dedicated power adapter plugged into a wall outlet, which I guess makes them a little more "high maintenance" or annoying to deal with when you're just trying to move some files around quickly. It’s a bit of a trade-off, really.

Honestly, the selection here is pretty underwhelming if you’re looking at it from an IT procurement standpoint, I guess. There’s just so much stuff we actually need to get our hands on, which means we'll be stuck waiting on shipments forever, and then there's the whole tedious process of trying to convince everyone to just settle for whatever random stock they happen to have on the shelves right now. It's a bit of a headache, really.

----

Just to be a bit more clear about what’s actually bugging me here, it's really this whole situation with the USB ports that's giving me a headache. I'm sitting here with a laptop that doesn't even have a USB 3.0 port, and I'm trying to figure out how on earth I'm going to transfer my data over to an external hard drive without everything just crawling along at a snail's pace, I guess.

Since my other PC actually has a USB 3.0 port, I’m really hoping to get one of those here too, mostly because I just can't stand sitting around forever waiting for files to transfer over to the hard drive—it's such a drag. So, I guess what I'm wondering is, are they essentially the exact same thing? Like, would the same cable work for both, or am I overthinking this whole situation?

So, I was thinking about this, and if I grab an external hard drive that’s got a USB 3.0 port, does that actually mean I can just plug it into a standard USB 2.0 port on my PC without any major drama? I guess I’m mostly just worried about whether they’ll stop making those older ports entirely, because it feels like every single device being manufactured lately seems to be moving exclusively toward USB 3.0. I mean, maybe I'm overthinking it, but I don't want to end up with a piece of hardware that's basically useless if my computer doesn't have the latest tech.

I’m really hoping I can finally get this sorted out sometime this week, because honestly, I feel like I've been spinning my wheels on this exact same issue for weeks on end now.

I was thinking I’d want something around the 1TB mark... though honestly, I wouldn't mind going smaller, provided it doesn't dip below 500GB because, you know, you need some breathing room. I guess my gut feeling is that Western Digital is pretty much the gold standard when it comes to external drives, or at least they feel more reliable to me. I was browsing Best Buy earlier to see what was available, but I couldn't find any IBM external options listed; it seems like they only really focus on their internal drives over there.

SanDisk says it’s a solid choice, too. Or maybe Seagate would be the way to go, I guess.

If you're looking for external drives with higher capacities—you know, anything north of 450 GB—it seems like your only real options are Adata, SanDisk, or Western Digital.

Honestly, this might be the most frustrating component I've ever tried to track down.

I tend to run into a bunch of issues after I actually pull the trigger on a purchase, though. Even when people swear these things are high-quality, I've had several just flat-out refuse to work.🙄

And now I'm dealing with this whole new headache where some of my older gear—like my scanner, webcam, and joystick—just won't play nice with Windows 7, even though everything worked perfectly fine back on XP. I've even got a few games that simply won't run on Windows 7 anymore.😢

Is there any sort of workaround to get these three components installed without me having to downgrade all the way back to XP Windows?

Finding a decent hard drive is proving to be such a massive pain. There are plenty of online retailers out there, but honestly, I wouldn't deal with most of them ever again.
swiftfalcon43 swiftfalcon43 Member
16 messages
joined Dec 2018
#269 ·
Alright, look, I have a question regarding external drives. I wasn't sure which sub to post this in, so I'm just dropping it here. Basically, I’m running into an issue with my external hard drive whenever I try to move files from my PC over to it. Every single time, the transfer just freezes up completely. It won't budge. It's infuriating. Files already on the drive play back just fine, but the actual transfer process is a total disaster. What am I supposed to do here? I haven't even tried moving stuff from the drive back to the computer yet, because I'm pretty sure the exact same thing would happen.
Benjamin King2 Benjamin King2 Active Member
138 messages
joined Apr 2007
#270 ·
Noah Flores2 said:The thing is—and I’m being dead serious here—none of those 54 drives actually have anything going for them speed-wise. They’re all stuck at 5400 rpm. That's it.

And if I decide to go with the 5400 rpm option—which, let's be honest, is basically living in the stone age—then the selection drops to a measly 33 external drives. Just 33. That’s it.

Can you walk me through what these values actually mean?

So, I’m looking at this pile of 33 drives—and let's be real, it's a bit of a mess—and I've gotta figure out which interface is actually worth my time: ATA, SATA, SAS, or SCSI. But here's the kicker—out of that whole bunch, only two of them actually have a SATA interface. The rest? Yeah, they don't have it. So, what's the play here?

So, you're seeing that the cache is only 8MB—what does that actually mean in plain English? Is it some kind of extra memory tucked away inside the drive itself? Basically, yeah—think of it as a tiny, super-fast scratchpad built right into the hardware. It’s not like your main storage where files live long-term, and it’s definitely not your system RAM. Instead, it's this little high-speed buffer that acts as a middleman between the drive and the rest of your computer. When the drive is trying to juggle data, it uses that 8MB to temporarily hold onto bits of info so it can shuffle them around much faster than if it had to go straight to the actual platters or flash cells every single time. It's all about smoothing out the workflow so things don't feel sluggish.

So, here's the deal—if you're stuck with nothing but USB 2.0 ports, can you actually use a USB 3.0 cable? Short answer: yeah, you can. It’ll work, but don't go expecting any miracles. It's basically like trying to drive a Ferrari through a school zone—the hardware is there, but the speed limit is strictly enforced by those old 2.0 ports. You'll get the connection, sure, but you're still going to be stuck at those much slower speeds. It's totally fine for basic stuff, just don't expect it to fly.

Is it actually easier to go with a 2.5-inch drive or a 3.5-inch one? I mean—if you pick the 3.5-inch route and end up needing that extra external power supply, it’s definitely going to be more of a headache to deal with. Just one more cord to juggle—not exactly my idea of a streamlined setup.

So, here’s one of those new headaches popping up—some of my older gear, like my scanner, webcam, and joystick, just refuses to play nice with Windows 7. It worked perfectly fine back when I was running XP, no issues at all. To make matters worse, I've run into a few games that simply won't launch on Win 7 either. Just one thing after another, really.😢

Is there any way at all to get these three components installed without me having to crawl back to Windows XP?

You’re probably going to have a hard time tracking down 7200 RPM drives these days—mostly because external drives are basically just glorified storage bins, so who actually cares about speed? It’s almost irrelevant at this point.

Look, when it comes to interfaces—if you want to get technical—SATA is exactly what you should be looking for. ATA is ancient history at this point, basically prehistoric—so don't even bother. If you're talking about those massive, high-end enterprise storage systems, then you move into SAS/SCSI territory, but for basically everything else? Just stick with SATA.

Think of cache as a little buffer zone for your data—it basically keeps things flowing smoothly by acting as a middleman while the disk is busy toggling back and forth between reading and writing operations.

Look, it’s pretty basic—you can absolutely plug a USB 3 drive into a USB 2 port. It’ll work just fine, but don't expect any miracles—the data transfer speeds are going to be painfully slow. It's basically like trying to squeeze a fire hose through a cocktail straw.

So, looking at 2.5" versus 3.5"... the main thing you're dealing with is capacity—it’s pretty straightforward. Those 2.5" drives are smaller, obviously, and there just isn't enough physical room inside them to cram in extra platters. It's a space issue, plain and simple.

Look, if your power supply is giving you a hard time—and honestly, who hasn't dealt with a finicky PSU?—then just skip the 3.5-inch drives altogether. It’s entirely your call—your business, really—but that's how I see it.

Look, if there aren't any Windows 7 drivers available for that ancient hardware you're lugging around—and let’s be real, it probably belongs in a museum—then you’re basically stuck. It's a dead end. You really only have two moves here: either roll back to Windows XP or just bite the bullet and go buy some actual, modern hardware. Simple as that.

If you’re looking to actually see the sights—you know, instead of just staring out a car window—just lace up your shoes and start walking. It's honestly the only way to go if you want to get a real feel for the place. 😁 What exactly are you hoping to gain from going there to take a look? Honestly, the drive sitting on the shelf is going to look identical to the one in the photo—you aren't going to see anything special in person.
Noah Flores2 Noah Flores2 Newcomer
9 messages
joined Jul 2012
#271 ·
Benjamin King2 said:I mean, you’re probably not going to stumble upon many 7200 rpm drives these days since most external drives are basically just glorified storage bins where speed isn't really the main concern, I guess.

As far as interfaces go, SATA is definitely what you should be looking for; ATA is ancient history at this point, and then you have SAS/SCSI, which is mostly reserved for those high-end enterprise storage systems.

The cache is essentially just a buffer for data, which I suppose helps maintain a continuous transfer while the drive is busy oscillating between read and write operations.

And yeah, you can plug a USB 3 drive into a USB 2 port, it’ll just be significantly slower, obviously.

Regarding 2.5 vs 3.5... the big difference is capacity, because 2.5-inch drives are smaller and there's just no physical room inside them to cram in extra circuit boards.

If having an extra power supply feels like too much of a hassle, then maybe just skip the 3.5-inch drives altogether; it's really just a matter of personal preference, I guess.

If there aren't any Windows 7 drivers available for that old hardware you're working with, well, you're kind of stuck; your options are basically sticking with Windows XP or just biting the bullet and buying new hardware.

And as for sightseeing, I'd say just get out there and walk. 😁 I mean, what's the goal with all that sightseeing anyway? A drive sitting on a shelf looks exactly the same as it does in a photo, so you aren't exactly going to see anything life-changing in person.

I grabbed a 500 GB Western Digital 2.5 inch HDD and moved everything over, but now it won't let me disconnect it from my laptop. And I really need to unplug it. Does anyone have a fix for this?

What a terrible deal; the thing stopped working on the very first day.

Thanks for the explanations. It honestly doesn't make sense to keep wasting money on various pieces of junk that don't actually work.

I found this program called USB Safely Remove, does it deal with the same kind of stuff?
Benjamin King2 Benjamin King2 Active Member
138 messages
joined Apr 2007
#272 ·
What’s the deal with "it won't disconnect"? You just go to the "Safely Remove Hardware" icon in the system tray, tell the drive to shut down, and then yank the USB cable out.
Noah Flores2 Noah Flores2 Newcomer
9 messages
joined Jul 2012
#273 ·
Benjamin King2 said:What does he mean by "it won't disconnect"? You just go to "Safely Remove Hardware" in the system tray, tell it to stop the drive, and then pull the USB cable out.

So, I click that icon down in the bottom right corner and select Eject, but then after maybe ten seconds or so, I get this notification saying it’s impossible to safely disconnect the Generic Device and that I should try closing all the programs currently using that Device. But the thing is, everything is already closed. I ended up just deleting everything I had saved on there, and I'm taking the whole thing back to the store tomorrow. Honestly, the selection of external drives is pretty pathetic; maybe one or two options are actually in stock at the local shops.

I've returned plenty of stuff in the past, and even though they always end up deciding it wasn't my fault, I guess I'm just getting tired of it; I just don't find much joy in computers anymore. It mostly feels like a massive waste of nerves.

It’s such a shame, really, because when I first plugged the hard drive in, it handled its own Update quite autonomously, went through three steps, showed me it was Ready, and everything saved pretty quickly—even though this laptop only has those old USB 2.0 ports. It plays back everything fine, but the moment you need to do a Safe Remove USB, it just refuses, and I end up sitting there waiting for hours.

From what I can gather looking at some foreign forums, this seems to be a wider issue; people mention rebooting as one of the potential fixes, but I'm not exactly an expert on that kind of stuff. I honestly thought a Western Digital drive would be a bit higher quality than this.
Noah Flores2 Noah Flores2 Newcomer
9 messages
joined Jul 2012
#274 ·
Hey there,

I was thinking about which external hard drive would be the best pick from this list I put together...

http://www.nabava.net/cvrsti-diskovi...,291084,121535

Some brands aren't listed, but maybe one of these 52 options could actually work, I guess.

I still find myself leaning toward Western Digital, but I'm kind of worried—is it actually bad for the drive to just yank the USB cable out of the port? Because I need to move files over to another PC. The guy at the shop was trying to convince me that it doesn't matter at all if you just unplug it, even though that little icon for safe removal isn't really doing anything.

I'd prefer something 2.5 inch max, you know, lightweight and things that don't need their own extra power supply. Though, if there happened to be a decent 3.5 inch model, I wouldn't exactly complain.

The specs here are pretty much identical to the 2.5 inch ones; I just toggled the option for 3.5 inch drives.

http://www.nabava.net/cvrsti-diskovi...,291084,121535

I don't know much about the reputation of these shops. I suppose Micro Center is a bit more reliable, but they don't seem to have any external hard drives in stock right now. Honestly, I'm not a huge fan of online retailers; sometimes it feels like they're just offering you whatever single unit they happen to have sitting in the display case.

What's the vibe at Hard Rock Cafe lately? Do you think they might have a better selection? I can easily swing by there. What about Best Buy?🙂

Does anyone know if the shop in downtown Chicago is any good?

Also, does anyone happen to know if they'll be getting new stock soon? Maybe sometime this fall?
Benjamin King2 Benjamin King2 Active Member
138 messages
joined Apr 2007
#275 ·
I went ahead and trimmed down that massive list of 2.5" drives you had into a much more manageable 1 GB selection: http://www.nabava.net/cvrsti-diskovi...,121535,291084

If you're asking me? I’d personally just grab a Transcend StoreJet 25 D3 or maybe an Adata Nobility NH13—honestly, Western Digital is just way too overpriced for what you actually get.

As far as where to shop, you've got places like Best Buy, Micro Center, Newegg, or Insight... though I have no clue which other shops might actually have them sitting on the shelves in person. Honestly, just hit up their actual websites directly—those price comparison sites are notoriously unreliable and often show stuff that doesn't even match what's actually in stock.
Noah Flores2 Noah Flores2 Newcomer
9 messages
joined Jul 2012
#276 ·
Benjamin King2 said:I trimmed down your 2.5" list to about 1 GB for you: http://www.amazon.com/external-hard-drives...,121535,291084

If I were in your shoes, I’d probably lean toward a Transcend StoreJet 25 D3 or maybe an Adata Nobility NH13, mostly because I feel like Western Digital is just way too overpriced for what you actually get.

As far as where to buy, you've got places like Best Buy, Micro Center, or maybe even some local shops... I'm not entirely sure who else keeps physical stock on the shelves. Honestly, I'd suggest just checking the actual store websites directly, since those comparison sites can be pretty unreliable—the info is often outdated or doesn't even match what the stores actually have in stock.

Is Transcend actually better quality than Adata or Western Digital? I mean, for instance, why would a 750 GB WD drive ($297) be priced almost the same as a Transcend 1000 GB ($300)?

And also, how come a 500 GB WD is more expensive than a Transcend 500 GB by nearly $33, especially when they seem to have identical specs—same RPM, same size, same 8 MB cache?

I did find this 1 TB WD drive here.

http://www.microcenter.com/details/product...ep0010bbk.aspx

The exact same one is listed at a higher price in a different online shop than it is at Micro Center.

http://www.insight.com/external-drive-ready/0130459

It's cheaper than the Transcend model despite having the same specs. Or maybe there's some hidden detail I'm missing? Like, does it somehow offer better performance or something?

http://www.amazon.com/external-hard-drives...00rpm__1692961

Here's what I'm wondering: if the hard drive doesn't let you use USB Safely Remove, does it actually damage the data if you just yank the USB cable out without getting that "You can now safely remove your hardware" message?

I'm asking because certain apps won't close because they're tied to a Generic Device, and it ends up giving me these annoying warnings for hours whenever I click the icon in the system tray.

Is there a decent brick-and-mortar store I could use instead of buying everything online? I haven't had the best luck with online shopping. For me, the quality of the hardware is the most important thing—I need to know my data is safe, which is huge. I want something that lasts. Plus, I really don't have the patience to deal with the hassle of returning stuff to a store if it doesn't work right.

Thanks for the help.
Benjamin King2 Benjamin King2 Active Member
138 messages
joined Apr 2007
#277 ·
Look, if you’re actually serious about data security—and I mean *really* serious—then just forget about portable drives entirely. Putting all your eggs in one basket is a recipe for disaster, plain and simple. If you want actual peace of mind, you’re going to have to invest in something like this:

Bottom line? You need to be storing your data in at least two different spots if you want even a shred of basic security.
Noah Flores2 Noah Flores2 Newcomer
9 messages
joined Jul 2012
#278 ·
So, I went ahead and picked up a Western Digital, 1000 GB, with a USB 3.0 port, $283. But here’s the thing—after I finished my first big file transfer, it just wouldn't let me Eject it safely. I mean, do you think that's going to cause any damage?

It came pre-formatted, so I didn't have to mess around with that part myself, which was nice. It looks pretty sleek, too. It was manufactured back in 2012, so I guess I'm just crossing my fingers that everything stays stable and actually keeps my data safe. 😉 Do you reckon this was a solid choice? I spent way too much time wandering around town looking at options, but honestly, it was frustrating; either they only had tiny ones, like 320 GB or 500 GB, or I’d have to wait forever for a special order because the specs listed on Best Buy's website can be totally unreliable, and half the time nothing is actually in stock anyway.

I'm heading over to Lenovo on Jurisic Street this afternoon; Micro Center has been stocking some really nice sets from Adata, Transcend, and Western Digital lately.
There’s also that shop right on the corner of Draskovic Street and Jurisic Street, but man, they are overpriced—they're asking about $267 500 GB for Transcend drives.
Benjamin King2 Benjamin King2 Active Member
138 messages
joined Apr 2007
#279 ·
And honestly, you could actually do some damage here—so when you're pulling it out, just make sure no little indicator lights are blinking, basically ensuring the drive isn't mid-task when you disconnect it. Or, if you want to be safe—and I mean really safe—just shut down the PC before you yank it.
Noah Flores2 Noah Flores2 Newcomer
9 messages
joined Jul 2012
#280 ·
Benjamin King2 said:It might actually cause some damage if you aren't careful, so I guess you should just watch those little indicator lights when you're unplugging it—basically make sure the drive isn't busy doing anything right before you pull it out. Or, honestly, maybe it's just easier to shut down the whole computer before taking it out.

Well, I had this one instance where Safa Remove just wouldn't let me eject it, which happened after I’d been sitting there for a while transferring a massive amount of data onto it. When I took it to the repair shop, they told me that I really should have just rebooted my PC, though they also mentioned that they rarely even bother using the safe removal method themselves for their own drives since they don't unplug them that often, and they haven't run into any data loss issues. They did suggest that you could potentially end up with some corrupted files, but I suppose that's pretty rare.

I've tried just pulling it without ejecting a few times now, and nothing bad has happened to my files; everything still plays back perfectly fine.

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