Which PSU should I buy?

stormywolf39 said:if you're certain it's just the fan and you're out of warranty, the simplest fix is really just to swap it out...

Well, look, I can't say for sure if it's limited to just the fan. I actually took it apart and "confirmed" that the fan is burnt out—the circuit board is fried. Now, whether the fan itself caused the failure or if there was a surge from the PSU that sent too much voltage through, I honestly can't tell. To be truthful, I've never been one for playing around with high voltage; poking at components with multimeter probes while everything is live under high tension is definitely not something I want to deal with.

Casey Long2 said:That Logitech unit is actually a solid choice,

To be perfectly honest, how reliable is that power supply when it comes to actual safety—specifically regarding potential short circuits or surge protection? I once had an incredibly frustrating experience with Exelon during a massive power surge, and my hard drive ended up being the only thing that bit the dust. I have absolutely no desire to relive that nightmare by having to visit IBM for data recovery services, especially if the drive happens to hold a thesis I've been grinding away at for the last two months.

I saw some reviews over at PC Gamer praising this unit as a solid power supply, and honestly, I tend to trust their take. This new v2.3 series feels like a high-quality build—it’s got that 80 Plus certification too... which, if you ask me, makes it a much better value than Corsair's CX series when you're looking at everything in that same price bracket.

It’s actually one of the better units you can find in the budget tier... though if you're still losing sleep over it, you could always look into a Seasonic 380W or 430W, or maybe a Corsair VX450 from Best Buy or Newegg. But let's be real, once you go that route, it won't be $97 anymore—you'll be looking at closer to $450-$183. That said, the Corsair is worth a look just because they offer a 5-year warranty instead of the usual 2 or 3 years, even if it does come with the highest price tag

Is this power supply actually any good? It looks decent enough, but it’s suspiciously cheap. There's gotta be a catch somewhere, right?
http://www.adm.com/product_info.php?c...oducts_id=9128

It’s not that it’s trash, but that new Corsair CX series doesn't exactly have a stellar reputation. Do a little digging and you'll find the chatter. Most of them lack an 80+ certification and the build quality is pretty questionable, so you're better off sticking with something tried and true like this:
http://www.adm.com/product_info.php?products_id=8575

boldcanyon14 said:It’s not that it’s garbage, but that new Corsair CX series isn't exactly winning any awards right now. Do a little digging; you'll find the complaints. It lacks an 80+ certification and the build quality is questionable at best. Why take the risk when you can grab something tried and true like this:
http://www.newegg.com/p/product_info.php?products_id=8575

Look, I don't need more than 520W, I just want something reliable. But what about the noise level? Is it going to be loud?🙄

I’ve got one myself, and honestly, my rig is pretty quiet. Nothing in the build stands out as being loud, which naturally means even the power supply isn't making any noise. 😁

Awesome. Just placed my order through ADM. 😁

But if you end up pushing it too hard, I suppose it'll start getting louder—just something to keep in mind.

Yeah, those Intel Core i7 and 6850 chips are definitely going to be working overtime 😁

Bryan Evans77 said:Yeah, I suppose an Intel Core i7 and a 6850 could definitely push things quite hard.😁

I wasn't really looking at what he's planning to load onto it—I just meant that under a heavier workload, it isn't exactly silent. If he's thinking about swapping out GPUs or something similar down the road, he should probably be aware of that.

how do I check what power supply is in my PC? is there some kind of software for this?

Yeah, just pop the case open and see what it says on there 😁

Bryan Evans77 said:Yeah, it's pretty simple: just pop the case open and read what's printed on it. 😁

🤣

Is there any other way to get in besides opening the case? I can't crack it open because they slapped a sticker right over the latch that says REMOVING THIS SEAL VOIDS YOUR 3-YEAR WARRANTY.😠

Jose Ruiz2 said:Is there any other way to prove ownership besides the case itself? I can't even open the chassis—they've slapped a sticker right over the seam that says REMOVING THIS SEAL VOIDS YOUR 3-YEAR WARRANTY.😠

The receipt??? If you aren't allowed to crack the case open, then I guess the receipt is your only option.

It should show exactly what you bought on your receipt...
Unless, of course, you grabbed one of those pre-built gaming rigs. In that case, you probably ended up with a total junk power supply.

460W is pretty weak... I could probably swap that out for something a bit beefier, maybe north of 550W?

Alright, spill it. Which one of these is actually gonna pull 550w?

ps.. probably some Cooler Master power supply..