Which PSU should I buy?

Those golden days are long gone, when you could just pull two wires from a plug and short out a circuit, haha. Nowadays, we’re expected to pay our taxes and buy a Seasonic or something similar just to connect what they claim are three wires, even though there are still only two, haha. They say the power supply provides 12V and 5V, so maybe I'll just hook it up to a bicycle dynamo and pay someone to pedal for me, eh.

I'll just hook up the terminals to the car battery and go for a spin, haha.

darkowl72 said:With LC, the amperage isn't even the main issue; it's the fact that they deliver incredibly low wattage on the 12V rail...

Wow... if any electrical engineering professor heard that, they'd be sent straight to summer school for failing basic Ohm's Law.😁

The 12V voltage is (ideally speaking) a constant in computers, while the current fluctuates proportionally based on the load—you know, the power draw.

In other words, amperage and wattage (it doesn't matter how you phrase it) are perfectly proportional. (POWER = VOLTAGE * CURRENT).

http://traficantesdehardware.com/ima...23/img/006.jpg

Look, out of the declared 650W, this thing barely delivers over half on the 12V rail combined... maybe 368W at most... 😱 If that's even true, then their "650W" claim is an absolute joke.

This should have been labeled as a 400W or 450W unit, and then there wouldn't be an issue.

Now... since they tested these LC Power GP3 units—specifically the 460W model paired with an overclocked i7 and dual HD4870x2 cards under full load—we all know that combo eats a massive amount of 12V power. To put it mildly, these power supplies are wildly underspecified when it comes to their rated 12V rail.

As the old saying goes: just because it's written on the box doesn't mean it's true.😁

Look, I’ll be the first to admit it—it’s been ages since I was actually in school, and I haven't touched this kind of technical stuff since my college days (and man, that was a long time ago...). So, go ahead and tear my logic apart: how am I supposed to compare a Seasonic unit that claims 520W on the +12V rail but delivers 40A (totaling 480W) against an LC unit that undersells its 12V rail and barely hits 370W in actual testing? That's a massive 110W gap compared to the Seasonic, even if they're only two amps apart 😁...?

The thing is, the Seasonic actually lives up to its specs...

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php...Story&reid=185

darkowl72 said:So, let’s actually look at the numbers here. How are we supposed to compare a Seasonic unit—which claims 520W on the +12V rail but delivers 40A, or 480W—against an LC model that consistently chokes out at just 370W during testing? We're talking about a massive 110W deficit compared to the Seasonic, even if they are only separated by a measly 2A. Does anyone actually think that's a fair fight? 😁)...?

A Seasonic unit absolutely lives up to its word. It delivers exactly what it promises on the box. Why settle for anything less?

I’ve been thinking about this situation lately, and frankly, I can't help but wonder where it all went wrong. We see it happen all the time in the tech world, don't we? Someone thinks they’ve found a shortcut, a way to bypass the standard rules of hardware stability, only to realize they've built their house on sand. It starts with a simple idea: "I have this power supply, it looks fine, why shouldn't I push it?" But then you start adding components. You plug in an Nvidia GTX 460 OC. Suddenly, that old, reliable unit isn't looking so reliable anymore. Is it worth the risk? Does anyone actually believe that cutting corners on power delivery is a smart move when you're trying to run high-end gear? We've seen these scenarios play out from Seattle to Miami. A user grabs a budget unit—maybe even something like an xfx450W or an old Chieftec 450 W. uzeti—thinking it'll handle the load. Then comes the moment of truth. The system hangs. The screen goes black. The silence that follows is deafening. Why do we do this to ourselves? Why do we ignore the warnings written in every enthusiast forum from New York to Los Angeles? It’s almost like watching someone try to tow a massive trailer with a compact sedan and acting surprised when the transmission shreds itself on the interstate. In the end, it's a lesson learned the hard way. If you want stability, you pay for it. If you want to gamble with your hardware, well, don't come crying to me when the smoke starts rising. Isn't that just the way it goes?

In this class of power supplies, the components responsible for the 12V rail—located on the secondary side—are mostly just "optimistic" when it comes to their rated specs.

I haven't personally messed around with the 650W version of the LC Power GP3 series, but that’s exactly why I decided to take a closer look at the 560W model instead. 🙂

When you look at the actual power delivery—specifically that secondary 12V rail—the difference between a 520W Seasonic and a 560W LC isn't just about the wattage on the box. It comes down to one key component. Or rather, it’s how they're built. The Seasonic actually hides three 30A rectifier elements inside. That would give you a theoretical output of 1080W. Makes you wonder why anyone bothers with the smaller numbers, doesn't it?

On the other hand, this 560W LC unit features two 30A elements dedicated to the 12V rail. That means we're looking at a theoretical 720W on that single rail. Makes sense, doesn't it?

If the 12V rail on both these power supplies relied solely on that specific component, we’d be looking at a fixed power ratio. But reality isn't that simple, is it? In practice, you have to account for things like inductor robustness and the quality of the secondary capacitors—which, to be fair, aren't actually bad in the LC Power GP3 series. Then there are the protective limits, like those automatic shut-offs when you overdraw. It changes the math entirely.

Of course, the question remains: are they both just throwing all that power straight into the wind?

Of course not. But let's be realistic: there are specific quality standards for corrected 12V voltage that they actually have to meet. Then you've got the safety regulations—protections, limits, and all that—not to mention the estimated lifespan a manufacturer targets when they put a power rating on the box. Do they really think they can just ignore those?

So, looking at LC Power, it seems their OEM strategy is pretty transparent. Wouldn't it be easier to just slash those warranty claim rates by being sneaky? They basically just declare a much lower power output on the 12V rail to keep things within "safe" limits. Why bother delivering what's promised when you can just limit the specs and call it a day?

With their track record and the sheer quality of the components they pack in, Seasonic can easily guarantee that this unit will actually deliver those 480W on the 12V rail. It’s a legitimate claim to make, sure—but of course, they decided to charge us a premium for the privilege.$177 vs. $130 (In the event that we end up dealing with LC).

Manufacturer policies are so incredibly convoluted you could practically write a textbook on them, and somehow still miss the most important details. But look, here’s my take: I’d much rather be pleasantly surprised by a power supply that over-delivers on its specs than deal with one that falls short and fries my entire rig while trying to hit its rated wattage. It's about reliability, isn't it? And honestly, LC has made a massive leap forward with their GP3 series.

In my opinion, Alexander Martinez knows his stuff when it comes to these capacitors (the units):

http://forum.pcekspert.com/showthread.php?t=188737

Paul Wright7 said:It seems to me—at least in my estimation—that Alexander Martinez is actually quite knowledgeable when it comes to those capacitors (the boxes):

http://forum.pcekspert.com/showthread.php?t=188737

Not at all, you're mistaken! 😁 😁 😉 😉 Alexander Martinez knows them almost inside out 😁 .

Thomas Martin4 said:No way, it's you! 😁 😁 😉 😉 Alexander Martinez knows just about everything inside out 😁.

😂

I appreciate the subtle humor used when overstating the recognition of rhetorical or ironic elements in these posts.

What is the actual difference between these power supplies, aside from the price tag and my own assumption that modular units cost more? Is one quieter, more powerful, or just built better? I need a recommendation for a build running a Phenom X4 paired with either a Sapphire 6850 or a Sapphire 6770.

Seasonic power supply, SS-520GB, 520 W, 120mm vent., active PFC from $169

Seasonic power supply, SS-520GM, 520 W, 120mm vent., active PFC from $193

Ronald Jones7 said:What’s the actual difference between these power supplies, besides the price tag and the fact that modular units cost more? Is one quieter, more powerful, or just built better? What should I go with? I need enough juice for a Phenom X4 paired with either a Sapphire 6850 or a Sapphire 6770.

Seasonic power supply, SS-520GB, 520 W, 120mm fan, active PFC from $169

Seasonic power supply, SS-520GM, 520 W, 120mm fan, active PFC from $193

I already told you on the first thread that the GPU is fine and the PSU will handle it. Regarding the GB and GM models, you hit the nail on the head—the second one is modular, or specifically semi-modular if you want to be precise.

Honestly, even for a Phenom and a beefier HD6870, an xfx450W is plenty. It costs $120 and, in my opinion, it's the best value pick for builds like yours.

wanderingviper7 said:I already mentioned in the first thread that your GPU should be fine and the power supply is sufficient. Regarding the GB and GM models, you made a good observation; the latter is actually semi-modular, as specified.

Otherwise, even for a Phenom or a more powerful HD6870, the xfx450W is plenty, and it costs $120 which I personally consider a best buy for those types of builds.

I don't know much about the xfx450. There is a difference $50 compared to the Seasonic 520 GB, and I am a bit worried about it starting to rattle after a few months of use or overheating, blah, blah—basically, I feel more secure going with the Seasonic.

I’ve been running that Seasonic 520W GB unit—non-modular version—for about four months now, and I can tell you firsthand: it stays dead silent. Not a peep. :P As for XFX, you might want to check in with someone who uses them exclusively, but my gut tells me they're just as solid. Since they’re built on Seasonic architecture, how could it possibly be bad?

I need some advice on a new power supply.

Mbo: Gigabyte P35DS3P
Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 @ 2,66 (thinking about overclocking this to at least 3.0 soon)
GPU: Nvidia GTX 460 OC
External sound card, EMU 1820m + 2PCI module
4 x 1GB DDR2 800 RAM
Right now I'm running a Chieftec 450 W. uzeti

Looking to pick up something in the $450 range, maybe $167.

James Fisher11 said:http://www.newegg.com/p/product_info.php?c...oducts_id=9848

Maybe something like these:

600W, LC POWER Super Silent Series, ATX2 v2.2, 120mm vent., black, PFC $110
600W, Chieftec 450 W. uzeti, CTG-600-80P, ATX v2.3, 120mm vent., PFC $156
500W, CORSAIR CX Series V2, CMPSU-500CXV2EU, ATX2 v2.3, 120mm vent. $156

I guess, how reliable is LC Power actually?

Bradley Smith88 said:I need a recommendation for a power supply.

Motherboard: Gigabyte P35DS3P
Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 @ 2,66 (planning to overclock to at least 3.0 soon)
GPU: Nvidia GTX 460 OC
External sound card, EMU 1820m + 2PCI module
4 x 1GB Ram DDR2 800
Currently running a Chieftec 450 W.

Looking for a PSU around 450 - $167.

http://www.bestbuy.com/product_info.php?products_id=9849

That's overkill for you... honestly, if your current unit is rock solid and doesn't whine or buzz, there’s zero reason to swap it out. Your entire rig pulls about 320-330 watts max.
You can push that CPU to 3.2 GHz on the stock cooler without any issues.

wanderingviper7 said:http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search/q/power+supply

That's probably overkill... but I guess if it stays stable and doesn't buzz or whine, you don't really need a new PSU. Your whole setup pulls maybe 320-330 watts.
You could probably overclock it to 3.2 GHz on that stock cooler without much trouble.

Alright, cool. Can't wait to push it to 3/3.2. I've never actually overclocked anything before, so I'll probably just check 😉 Thnx
Google first.

I’m thinking about picking up a new PSU, honestly. Ever since I dropped in the GTX 460 OC, my power supply has been getting way louder...

Bradley Smith88 said:I'm actually thinking about grabbing a new PSU, because ever since I installed the GTX 460 OC, the power supply has started getting louder...

http://www.amazon.com/power-supplies/b?node=16310902011&keywords=500W
http://www.amazon.com/power-supplies/b?node=16310902011&keywords=silent_fan - this one is cheaper
http://www.amazon.com/power-supplies/b?node=16310902011&keywords=430W
http://www.amazon.com/power-supplies/b?node=16310902011&keywords=500W
http://www.amazon.com/power-supplies/b?node=16310902011&keywords=450W
http://www.amazon.com/power-supplies/b?node=16310902011&keywords=450W
http://www.amazon.com/power-supplies/b?node=16310902011&keywords=550W

Any of these will do the job; you won't go wrong. Each link points to a specific model, sorted by price from lowest to highest.

wanderingviper7, thanks for the help. I'll grab you a coffee next time you're on an Amtrak train somewhere 😉