PC build with monitor for $1,200–$1,500

I’m currently putting together a workstation for my new office, and since I'll be spending my days running AutoCAD, Revit, Tower, and various other civil engineering software, I need something reliable. I haven't really decided if I'll be using it for gaming or not, but I definitely need a monitor that won't kill my eyes during long shifts. Up until now, I've always found a 24-inch screen perfectly fine, but I'm curious—what are your thoughts on jumping up to a 27-inch display, especially considering how much time I'll be spending drafting in CAD? Is it overkill? I honestly don't know. I am planning to use some small business grants to fund this purchase, so I figure I might as well invest in something high-quality that actually lasts and isn't going to break down on me in a year. 🙂 Please, feel free to share your advice. THANKS!

AutoCAD 2D vs. 3D? Does any of this other software actually rely heavily on the GPU?

I’m asking because I might be taking on some graphic design work with this specific setup. If we're strictly talking 2D, then investing in a high-end graphics card would basically be throwing money down the drain.

Regarding the monitor—27" is a solid size, but the resolution is the real question mark here. For a screen that large, 1080p can feel a bit grainy unless you're sitting quite far back from the desk. Moving up to 1440p makes much more sense for clarity, though those monitors definitely come with a higher price tag.

True, though if you budget for $2167, a powerful processor paired with 16GB of RAM should still leave enough room for a decent graphics card, provided there hasn't been a massive spike in CPU prices lately. With an additional $667 in the mix, one might even be able to pick up a rather respectable 29'' ultrawide monitor.

Should the resolution prove insufficient, perhaps it would be a viable workaround to simply scale things up to 2K or 4K via software settings.

Thanks for the feedback, but I think you guys are getting a little ahead of yourselves here. I’ve already decided to handle my gaming on a PlayStation 4 I picked up, so that’s one less thing to worry about. As for work, I'll mostly be using AutoCAD for 2D stuff, and I don't think my other programs are going to demand a powerhouse graphics card. I know Revit—which I don't personally use much, maybe just to glance over finished projects—might need a bit more juice, but in my mind, the processor and RAM are the real heavy lifters. That being said, since I'm getting everything else dialed in, isn't it worth having a decent GPU? Who knows what the future holds, right? I'd rather have something solidly reliable, especially since if I land this grant, they actually cover those costs. Regarding monitors, there's no way I'm grabbing anything over 27"; I'm not looking to watch movies or game on a monitor at the office—that's what the PlayStation 4 is for, and I plan on upgrading the TV once I've saved up enough. Honestly, even a 24" works fine for me, though if you guys can really convince me, I might consider a 27" haha. I suppose I might be overspending for what I actually need, but I was banking on this setup lasting a long time if the funding comes through. Still, if you figure out that $2333 or even something less would suffice, I'm not going to force myself to spend $3333 just for the sake of it; I'd probably rather put that extra cash toward a cheaper laptop for home use 🙂

Thanks for the feedback, but I think you guys might be overthinking this a bit. I’ve already decided to handle my gaming on the PlayStation 4 I picked up, so that's one less thing to worry about. As for work, I'll mostly be using AutoCAD for 2D stuff, and I don't think my other programs are going to demand a massive amount of GPU power. Even with Revit—which isn't really my main tool, I'd probably just use it to glance at existing projects—it seems to me that the processor and RAM are going to be the real heavy lifters here. That said, since I'm already spec-ing out everything else, it feels a little counterproductive not to get a decent graphics card, right? Who knows what the future holds? Besides, if I end up getting that employer reimbursement, they'll cover a solid card anyway. Regarding monitors, there's absolutely no way I'm grabbing anything over 27 inches; I'm not looking to watch movies or play games on a desktop monitor at work—that's what the PlayStation 4 and my TV are for, and I'm planning to upgrade the TV once I've saved up enough. Honestly, even a 24-inch screen works fine for me, though maybe I'll be talked into a 27-inch if you all keep insisting haha. I suppose I might be overspending for what I actually need, but my thought process was that if I'm getting this money, I want the setup to last. Still, if you can convince me that $2333 or even something less would suffice, I won't force myself to drop $3333 on this; I'd much rather take the savings and grab a cheaper laptop for light use at home 🙂

...my current laptop is an old HP ProBook that’s about six years old now, and honestly, I feel like it might just catch fire at any given moment. It was a pretty solid machine back in the day, sure, but things change. Is it even realistic to think I could pick up a laptop in the $1000 range that actually outperforms what I'm using right now? Seems like a tall order, doesn't it?

For roughly $3,000-$1100, you might be able to find a laptop with slightly superior hardware specifications, though I suspect the actual performance jump wouldn't be particularly monumental; furthermore, you would likely be limited to a 15.6'' screen, as those 17.3'' models tend to carry a much higher price tag. On the other hand, laptops in this specific price bracket are generally of top-tier quality in almost every conceivable aspect, from the display clarity to the tactile feel of the trackpad and keyboard. These modern designs lack flexibility as well, as they are often quite difficult to open up for cleaning or internal upgrades.

One major grievance for me is that batteries are now non-replaceable, and frankly, I wouldn't consider purchasing such a device solely because of that single flaw, regardless of its other shortcomings. Additionally, the battery life tends to be underwhelming, and running Windows 10 will absolutely drain them.

Even if you were to spend $1667, you would still encounter many of these same frustrations. To be perfectly honest, I am not entirely certain which specific model you are looking at, as I haven't had the chance to dive deep into the full technical reviews, but when it comes to these budget-friendly laptops, one really cannot expect much of anything.

If I may offer a suggestion, I would much rather recommend building a desktop; you could opt for a Ryzen 8/16 system (unless you find through some research that the specific software you rely on heavily prefers Intel). For memory, I believe 2x8GB at 3000MHz with CL16 timings offers the best value, and while a modest 400-450W power supply might suffice, it should at least be of decent, mid-range quality. I would advise allocating a bit more toward the motherboard—perhaps around $900-$333—to secure a solid mid-range option. If you decide to pick a dedicated graphics card, I would personally lean toward AMD and pair it with a FreeSync-compatible monitor. A 24'' 1080p monitor feels a bit lackluster to me; I find 23'' to be the upper limit of what is ideal unless size is your primary concern, and you can often save a significant amount of money just by choosing a slightly smaller screen size.

Alternatively, you could select a more affordable graphics card for now and focus your budget on the rest of the components and a superior monitor, perhaps something in the 24-27'' range with 2K resolution. In a year or two, you could simply upgrade to a newer offering from AMD; by then, the latest series should have been on the market long enough for prices to stabilize and drop, assuming there aren't any strange market anomalies, which, as we have seen over the last few years, are all too common.

Samuel Castillo49 said:For $3,000-$1100, you could probably snag a laptop with slightly better specs, though it wouldn't be a massive leap in performance, and you’d likely have to settle for a 15.6'' screen since those 17.3'' models are overpriced. Then again, laptops in that price bracket are basically "budget quality" across the board—everything from the display to the trackpad and keyboard feels cheap. These newer designs aren't even user-friendly; half the time they're a nightmare to open up, clean, or upgrade.

Batteries are non-replaceable nowadays, and honestly, I wouldn't touch a laptop like that just for that reason alone, regardless of any other flaws. Plus, they tend to be underwhelming, and running Windows 10 absolutely drains them.

Even at $1667, you're still stuck dealing with most of these issues. To be perfectly blunt, I don't know your exact model because I can't be bothered to dig through a full review, but when it comes to these entry-level laptops, you really shouldn't expect much of anything.

I’d strongly suggest going with a desktop instead. Grab a Ryzen 8/16 (unless one of the programs you rely on specifically favors Intel—do a little digging there). For RAM, 2x8GB at 3000MHz CL16 is probably your best bet. Your power supply can be a bit modest, maybe something in the 400-450W range, provided it's decent enough to be considered mid-tier. I'd put a bit more money into the motherboard, maybe around $900-$333, to get something solidly in the mid-range. If you're picking a GPU, I’d lean toward AMD and grab a monitor with FreeSync. A 24'' 1080p setup feels a bit underwhelming; personally, I think 23'' is the sweet spot unless size is your main priority, and you can often save quite a bit just by going with a slightly smaller screen size.

Alternatively, you could pick up a budget graphics card now and focus your spending on the rest of the hardware and a nicer 24-27'' 2K resolution monitor. In a year or two, you can just pick up something new from AMD’s lineup once the next series has been out long enough to see some price drops—assuming the market doesn't pull any weird stunts, which, given the last few years, is always a possibility.

I am definitely going with a desktop, that's what I meant to say. I was just wondering if I could build a powerful enough desktop for less than the amount in the title and maybe squeeze in a laptop too, but you've talked me out of it. I won't be looking at a laptop until my current one finally dies. As for the case and the monitor, I think I can find something decent for $7,000-$8,000, and that's pre-tax since it'll be a business expense.

Honestly, I think a dedicated GPU is overkill for you. Integrated graphics should be plenty—especially for AutoCAD 2D, which everyone knows—and likely enough for your other software too. An integrated chip from a Core i5 8400 or a Ryzen 5 2400G would more than suffice. However, let's play it safe to account for those "other construction programs" and throw in at least a GTX 1030 GDDR5 alongside an AMD Ryzen 5 2600 (since that CPU requires a discrete card anyway because it lacks integrated graphics). We could also invest in a solid SSD. Using the Core i5 8400 might lead to some pricing headaches, and frankly, its multi-threading isn't nearly as strong as the AMD Ryzen 5 2600. Since you have the budget for a 6-core/12-thread setup, why settle for less? RAM speed won't make much difference in these types of applications—that's mostly for high-end gaming rigs—but we'll include it just to keep the price point attractive...

1 * AMD Ryzen 5 2600 Processor (6C/12T, 3.9GHz, 19MB, 65W, AM4) box, Wraith Stealth
Part number: YD2600BBAFBOX - $483

1 * MSI B350 Tomahawk, AM4, DDR4, U3, m.2, ATX
Part number: msi-b350-thawk - $233

1 * G.SKILL 16 GB (2x8 GB) DDR4 Memory, 3200 MHz, DIMM, Ripjaws V
Part number: F4-3200C16D-16GVKB - $466

1 * Inno3D GTX 1030 2GB GDDR5
Part number: INO-N1030-1SDV-E5BL - $229

1 * Samsung 970 Evo 250GB SSD, M.2 2280 PCIe
Part number: 0141002 - $268

1 * Kingston SSD 480GB A400 SATA3 2.5
Part number: SA400S37/480G - $210

1 * Fortron Hyper 500W Power Supply
Part number: fsp-nap-hyp-500 - $133

1 * SilentiumPC Armis AR3 Black Case, 2x120mm fans
Part number: 29150648 - $120

Total: $2142

This includes free assembly and shipping. Regarding storage, I picked the Samsung 970 because it's arguably the best on the market, and since this is for work, you want your OS and main software running on the fastest drive possible. For general storage, a standard SSD will do fine 😁. If you find yourself needing even more space, you can always add a 1TB or 3TB HDD. If you decide you want a beefier graphics card, look into a GTX 1050 2GB (or an RX 560 4GB if the price is similar), then move up to a GTX 1050 Ti, a GTX 1060 3GB, or even a GTX 1060 6GB.

Click here for monitors — I’d suggest playing it safe with a 24" 1080p display. Getting a high-end series (like UltraSharp) ensures you don't end up with pixelated images on a 27" 1080p screen or a 1440p resolution that feels too cramped on a 27" panel. By the way, all these prices include sales tax, and you can also purchase this via a business invoice.

In my humble opinion, a standard SSD should be more than sufficient for most people's needs; perhaps it might actually be wiser to redirect those funds intended for a premium Samsung drive toward a higher-quality motherboard, a better monitor, or even an additional hard drive or basic SSD.
I must admit, I am somewhat perplexed as to why san would suggest looking into a Ryzen 8/16, as they seem rather inefficient from a value perspective when compared to the 6/12 options, which honestly provide plenty of power for just about any task you might encounter.

Timothy Kim60 said:Look, I honestly think you’re overthinking the graphics card situation. For basic AutoCAD 2D work, everyone knows integrated graphics are more than enough, and frankly, they should be sufficient for most other tasks on your list too. If you went with a Core i5 8400 or even a Ryzen 5 2400G, the onboard graphics would handle things just fine. But hey, if we want to play it safe because of those "other construction programs" you mentioned, we could always throw in at least a GTX 1030 with DDR5 alongside a Ryzen 5 2600—though, keep in mind, if you pick the Ryzen 5 2600, you're forced to buy a dedicated card anyway since it lacks integrated graphics. We could also look into upgrading the SSD and such. If you opt for the Core i5 8400, you might run into some headache regarding pricing, and let's be real, its multi-threading performance just can't touch the Ryzen 5 2600. Now, the 2400G is only a quad-core, and since you actually have the budget for a 6-core/12-thread setup, why wouldn't you? RAM speed doesn't really move the needle in these types of applications—that's only relevant if you're building a high-end gaming PC—but we can toss it in there if the price looks right.

So, I’ve got one AMD Ryzen 5 2600 on hand—that’s the 6-core, 12-thread version clocked at 3.9GHz with 19MB of cache and a 65W TDP, sitting in the box with the Wraith Stealth cooler included. Is there anything else to say about it?
Part Number: YD2600BBAFBOX - $483

So, I’ve got one MSI B350 Tomahawk on hand—it's an AM4 board, supports DDR4, has U3, includes an m.2 slot, and follows the standard ATX form factor.
Is there any reason why someone would still be looking up the BIOS password for an MSI B350 Tomahawk? Does anyone actually have this on hand? $233

So, I’m looking at this 16 GB kit from G.SKILL—specifically the Ripjaws V series, 3200 MHz DDR4 in a 2x8 GB configuration. It’s a standard dual-channel setup, which, if you actually care about getting decent performance out of your system instead of just throwing parts together blindly, is pretty much the bare minimum these days, isn't it? It’s a solid, reliable choice for most builds, but I wonder if people realize how much a little bit of stability matters when they're pushing their RAM speeds.
Part Number: F4-3200C16D-16GVKB $466

1 * Inno3D GTX 1030 2GB GDDR5
Password: INO-N1030-1SDV-E5BL - $229

1 * Samsung 970 Evo 250GB SSD, M.2 2280 PCIe
Code: 0141002 - $268

Just one Kingston 480GB A400 SATA3 2.5" SSD.
Part Number: SA400S37/480G - $210

1 * Fortron Hyper 500W power supply
The part number is Hyper 500W. $133

1 x SilentiumPC Armis AR3 Black Case, featuring dual 120mm fans.
Code: 29150648 - $120

Total: $2142

If you go with Futura, they’ll throw in free assembly and shipping. Personally, I’d suggest grabbing a Samsung 970 SSD and installing it yourself—it’s easily the best on the market, and since that's where your OS and all your heavy software will live, you really want that speed for your workflow. For everything else, just use a standard, basic SSD for extra storage. Why wouldn't you? 😁If you’re feeling like you're running out of room, just toss in a 1TB to 3TB HDD to handle the extra storage. Now, if you’re actually looking to beef up your graphics performance, you could go with a GTX 1050 2GB—or maybe an RX 560 4GB if the price point is basically identical—but from there, you can always look toward stepping things up to a GTX 1050 Ti, a GTX 1060 3GB, a GTX 1060 6GB, and so on.

Is there anything more frustrating than hearing that sudden, sharp click coming from your monitor? You’re just sitting there, minding your own business, maybe finishing up some work or catching a show, when suddenly—*click*. It’s such an unsettling sound, isn't it? It makes you wonder if something just snapped inside or if the hardware is finally giving up the ghost. Does anyone else deal with this, or am I just losing my mind? Honestly, if you want to play it safe, just stick with a 24" 1080p setup. It’s better to go with a proven, high-end series like the UltraSharp line so you don't end up regretting your choice later. Why deal with the headache of 1080p looking pixelated on a 27" screen, or finding that 1440p feels way too cramped? Just get what works. By the way, all these prices already include sales tax, and you can always pick them up at Best Buy if that's easier.

Thanks! Since I still have some wiggle room left in the budget—and considering all these prices are pre-tax—maybe I should take Ashley Wood3’s advice and opt for a slightly better motherboard, like the B450? Is there actually a massive difference if I make that jump? As for storage, I don't think I really need a massive internal drive right now; instead, could you guys give me some recommendations for a high-quality external or portable hard drive for backing up my data, just in case I decide to pull the trigger on one?

I was actually looking at that same series myself, specifically considering the Dell U2415 because I’ve always preferred that slightly more square aspect ratio for better visibility. It just seems to offer a cleaner, more organized workspace than the standard widescreen setups, doesn't it? What are your thoughts on it?

Samuel Castillo49 said:Honestly, just a standard SSD should be more than enough for most people; wouldn't it make more sense to skip the premium Samsung and put that extra cash toward a better motherboard, a decent monitor, or maybe even an extra hard drive or a basic SSD? I have no idea why anyone would even bring up a Ryzen 8/16—they're such a terrible value compared to the 6/12, which is plenty powerful for basically anything you'd actually do.

Well, if I have the budget, I'll get the SSD. But do you really think I need a better monitor? I was looking at that Dell, though I'm open to any suggestions you might have...

There isn't much of a real difference between the B350 and B450 boards. I guess you might find that B450 models in the same tier tend to have slightly better cooling, mostly because the second-gen Ryzen chips can be pretty aggressive with their boost clocks.

Maybe check this out if you're dead set on getting something newer with a bit more thermal headroom:

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/B450-A-PRO-MAX/

I wasn't actually referring to a newer series of motherboards, but rather to a model that is significantly more robust than the Tomahawk or similar mid-range options; there are quite a few such high-end models available on the market. I am currently using a ProBook that serves my needs quite reliably, but if I were to purchase a new system today, I would certainly opt for something much higher in terms of build quality, longevity, and future-proofing. Regarding the Dell U2415 monitor, it is an excellent choice, and I suspect you won't find anything better for that specific price point and purpose. However, I am somewhat skeptical about investing in that high-speed Samsung SSD, as it might be $267 overkill for something that will likely offer you minimal to no tangible benefit. In my estimation, a standard, budget-friendly SSD is more than sufficient for the vast majority of tasks, provided that it actually meets its advertised performance specifications—for instance, hitting those 550 MB/s read/write speeds.

The B450 comes with a license for the Store.

wiredotter14 said:The B450 comes with a license for the Store.

Is that actually a good thing?

On another note, I just realized I really need a UPS—how much does quality actually matter here, and what should I be looking for when I'm shopping? I don't have any experience with this stuff. I also need some recommendations for a mouse and keyboard that are solid enough so I don't end up losing my mind from poor quality.🙂

Using a 256GB SSD to speed up your HDD works pretty well. It’s fast enough if you're mostly running the same programs and hitting the same files, all while keeping your full HDD capacity available.

But if you're constantly loading entirely new stuff? You probably won't see much of a difference.

Regarding the UPS, check out this epic breakdown from a colleague to get you up to speed: click

As for the motherboard, if you're looking for a more meaningful upgrade, I'd suggest this.