Posts by Terry Lewis2

urbanheron4 said:Also, it’s entirely possible that the second monitor has a higher resolution than the laptop screen itself. That would put even more strain on the GPU, especially since this laptop already struggles with thermal management. Normally, bumping up the resolution just eats into your VRAM, but modern games are packed with post-processing effects—think ambient occlusion, anti-aliasing, depth of field, or motion blur. When you're dealing with a more complex image, those functions demand more juice, which ends up taxing the Hardware even harder.

Even just transferring a basic image file can cause a laptop to heat up. I see this firsthand with my HUB. When I connect an Apple Macbook Pro M1 via a HUB to an HDMI port to view content on an external monitor, the HUB itself gets quite warm.

dustybadger11 said:The laptop isn't even a year old. Is it really possible for dust buildup or dried-out thermal paste to be the culprit this early?

Anyway, I swung by the dealer here in the States today where I originally bought the laptop to start the RMA process. They told me that if I leave it with them for the service/warranty claim, we're looking at a 4 to 6 week turnaround. Apparently, going through Dell directly might be a bit faster.

What a total disaster. What am I supposed to do now? I can't exactly go a month without my laptop...

Just buy an Apple Macbook Pro M1.
And honestly? They won't fix it anyway—it's a fundamental design flaw.

Is there any justification for the constant, blatant, and intentional disregard for the rules of a forum like this one?

maki said:Jack is Elvis Presley

He works as an assistant at a small community college out in rural Ohio—think somewhere like a tiny branch of Ohio State.

We’re essentially paying for every word he types here.

There have been instances where users were banned without a shred of evidence—simply because someone made a baseless claim that they were being doxed or having their identity leaked.
It feels like the integrity of the institution itself is being dragged through the mud. I am not involved in the specific subject matter being discussed, but I am genuinely curious: why is certain behavior tolerated, while others are reported by people who seem more like psychiatric cases than rational actors—people who fabricate data—only to face immediate and most rigorous disciplinary action?

And let me be clear—I am not seeking anything. No bans, no intervention. I am simply looking for an answer to the question.

Anthony Perez64 said:Greetings to everyone.

My laptop is currently running on 8 GB of RAM—specifically a dual-channel setup with two 4 GB sticks.
I have been reviewing the technical specifications for these Hynix memory modules—specifically the DDR3 components—and they seem quite reliable. It reminds me of how much we rely on high-quality hardware from companies like Micron to keep our systems running smoothly.

I have the option to add two more 2GB sticks of these—much like adding extra capacity to a server rack to prevent any bottlenecks.
The technical specifications for these Hynix memory modules—specifically the DDR3 series—are quite detailed. It reminds me of how much precision goes into building a high-performance engine—where even a tiny deviation in timing can stall everything—and I find the granular data provided here to be quite helpful for anyone looking to upgrade their workstation.

Will these two components function effectively in tandem—much like a well-oiled engine—or will they clash?

It should be possible—they operate at the exact same speed.

Jeremy Lopez57 said:You can find keyboards with both American and US layouts available.

I picked up a Corsair K70 RGB Mini with purple switches—on purpose, actually, since they were on sale and I really want that tactile click.
It’s a US layout with some American character stickers applied over it (including fixing the swapped Z and Y keys).
I was hesitant about going with a smaller board at first—but I realized it works quite well, especially since the arrow keys are mapped to the right-side keys when you hit the function key.
It uses optical switches and features full RGB, though I haven't broken it in yet. It also comes with RGB management software and some cool decals for those who enjoy customizing their chassis—which, in my case, is exactly what I'm doing.

Alexander Moore67 said:If you can live with the stock cooler spinning at max speed—especially if it’s buzzing and hitting over 80 degrees during long sessions—then the stock setup is fine...

You actually have access to some very solid, budget-friendly EVGA coolers right now.
Stick with the stock one for now, and once you've saved up enough, you could look into something like this:

https://www.lc-power.com/en/product/cpu-cooler/lc-cc-120/

It handles a TDP of 180W—which, I assume, is more than enough for your processor.

Let me clarify my previous point—it isn't quite what I first suggested, but there is a middle ground.
Basically, you can find backlit keyboards where an American layout has been modified with stickers for specific diacritics, but the characters themselves won't glow. They are just decals. You could pick up something from Oracle at Walmart for $133, or go with the Razer BlackWidow V3—which is a UK layout with those characters added via stickers and features green mechanical switches.

Richard Lee47 said:I'm not entirely sure if there's even a mechanical keyboard out there with American characters engraved—I mean, they exist, but they're incredibly rare.

A mechanical keyboard—especially one that features optical switches and RGB lighting with a standard American layout—simply DOES NOT EXIST. Well, you could count them on one hand, but practically speaking, they aren't available. Usually, the best move is to grab a German layout model since it's somewhat similar, then just have the specific characters engraved locally.

Every gaming keyboard you find in a store that happens to be mechanical comes with either a US or UK layout. And honestly, I'm looking for one myself:
-backlit
-mechanical
-optical and clicky (similar to a Razer BlackWidow V3)
-with an American layout

So, if anyone manages to track one down, please let me know. I'd be happy to trade some coffee or something similar for the help. Though, I highly doubt it's possible.

Sean Taylor7 said:Hey everyone—I'm putting together a new build, mostly aimed at 1080p gaming.

The CPU and GPU are set—I don't need anything more powerful than that—but now
I'm wondering if the rest of these parts look alright, since I'm a bit out of my depth when it comes to power supplies and SSDs.

Also, does the Intel Core i5-12400F come with a stock cooler, or...?

https://ibb.co/cFNFZWz

To me, this looks perfectly fine.

amberhound8 said:I suppose you could actually put your phone's processor through its paces too, rather than just sticking to desktop rigs.

You can grab Bench right here: https://www.geekbench.com/geekbench4/download/

My score, if anyone actually cares: https://browser.geekbench.com/v4/cpu/16527135

https://browser.geekbench.com/v4/cpu/16535621
https://browser.geekbench.com/v4/compute/5136185
https://browser.geekbench.com/v4/compute/5136186

Angela Murphy74 said:I'm also looking for some suggestions. I spend all day typing at work—these stiff keys are absolutely killing me.
I’d prefer something shallow and soft—similar to what I have on my laptop.

The Apple Magic keyboard—it features the same key profile you'll find on an Apple laptop, or even a Lenovo Flex (which, in my opinion, boasts one of the best typing experiences out there). It's wireless via Bluetooth, rechargeable, and available in versions both with and without a numeric keypad.

quietrider16 said:It’s funny how things work—everything was fine last night, but I get home from work today and suddenly the right side is dead. I've tried everything short of taking them apart, but no luck. They're my SteelSeries Arctis Nova units from about three years ago—I'm pretty sure the warranty is long gone. Picked them up at Best Buy. I'll double-check the box, but it seems they've finally given up. I might try to crack them open, though it probably just means it's time for an upgrade.

The SteelSeries Arctis Nova line has always been top-tier for me, but looking around, it seems like most of the models I originally bought aren't really on the shelves here anymore. What would you consider a solid "best buy" around $167 right now? I'd love a few suggestions. Just needs to have a decent mic and a volume wheel 🙂

Take them to a repair shop. It shouldn't cost much, and they are your favorite pair after all.
If these are the ones:
https://www.amazon.com/gaming-headset-black-61758011

then they are wired. The issue is likely in the cable, so someone will need to take a look.

Andrew Miller102 said:An interesting comparison involving both Intel and AMD coolers tested on an Intel LGA 1200 socket.

The tests looked at two different TDP limits—the standard 65W and a bumped up 100W—using an i5 11400F processor. The whole point here is clearly to evaluate the cheapest current stock coolers available. With Zen 3 chips out, AMD mostly just offers the Wraith Stealth these days. You only really see the Wraith Prism RGB if you’re looking at older Zen 2 chips like the Ryzen 7 3700X or the Ryzen 9 3900X. For the older Ryzen 5 3600 or the newer Ryzen 5 5600X, you're stuck with the Wraith Stealth in the box.

As for that "new/old Intel stock cooler," it managed to claim the title of the loudest CPU cooler in the bunch. It looks like Intel decided to cut corners again, providing a noticeably smaller fan that has to spin at incredibly high speeds to compensate. I honestly wonder how that little black Intel unit would perform if its fan speed was capped like the AMD Stock Cooler. That Wraith Stealth tops out somewhere around 2200 RPM.

Intel’s top-tier gear apparently assumes you're wearing earplugs, much like those old, subpar AMD stock coolers or any other buzzing nuisance.

I don't think the older, significantly better and quieter X58 Intel stock cooler even needs a mention.🍿

The Intel platform (as well as AMD) isn't doing great lately. For the first time, hardcore PC enthusiasts are actually buying Apple M1 machines.
They run practically without any fans at all.

wiredcanyon94 said:You could try Microsoft. But look, when you say "really critical" stuff, what kind of budget are we talking about here? Data recovery isn't exactly cheap. You can check their pricing directly on their website.
https://microsoft.com/en-us/price-list

It isn't exactly a fast process, either. Paying the fee is one thing, but even the pros have their limits. Just be careful with your hard drives—or if you aren't the cautious type, invest in an external SSD. They make 2 TB models now that utilize NVMe technology. Brands like Verbatim, Apple, or WD are solid choices.

wiredotter14 said:We don't actually know what the specific use case is. For all we know, an M1 Mac Mini might be plenty, and it’ll likely have better longevity with Photoshop and similar apps down the road—plus it costs way less.

P.S. The Mac Pro is insanely expensive. It isn't some budget alternative to an iMac for a comparable setup; sure, you get a higher ceiling for performance, but you pay a massive premium for it.

In that case, he’d probably be better off grabbing a MacBook Pro rather than the Mini M1. The M1 always presents limitations—specifically regarding RAM and SSD capacity—so it almost doesn't matter if you choose a desktop or a laptop.
He needs a true workstation. Neither a mini or a MacBook Pro quite reaches that level, even though they are certainly capable and fast machines.