That thing is still a really solid processor... It handles just about any game you throw at it without breaking a sweat. I'm curious though—what kind of new components did you end up switching over to?
🤔 My bad—I totally misspoke there and got my wires crossed... I actually meant the internal USB 3.0 header that plugs directly into the motherboard (assuming the case actually has that specific connector) rather than just a standard external USB 3.0 port. 😬 🙂
Oh yeah, I totally blanked on that... That would definitely be the better way to go. Honestly, if you just toss in another 100-$50 bucks, you could probably snag a slightly more "premium" motherboard that actually comes with USB 3.0—since you mentioned needing that earlier.
Is he really going to ask for $167 more money? What is he thinking with this cracked version? 😛
If you check Craigslist for $300, you can find deals like this—you could either flip that monitor for some quick cash (assuming you don't need $300) or just hold onto it. Honestly, you'd be better off getting a motherboard with better overclocking potential... I'm just not sure where the seller is located, though he mentioned he's willing to ship via USPS..
Honestly, I’d be lucky to get two beers for that... It’s been used for maybe two or three years now, and I’m guessing the warranty has already run out too. Don't go expecting much more than that.
What kind of processor are you actually running right now? 😬 That Dell motherboard you linked is definitely a step up, but there’s a catch—it requires DDR3 RAM. So, you'd have to factor in the cost of buying that too 😁 Plus, you'll need a brand new CPU since it uses a completely different socket...
Just disconnect those front panel cables coming from your case—you can just grab a screwdriver or a wrench if you need to—and then bridge the positive and negative pins on the motherboard's power header. See what happens after that... Just make sure you've actually got the 24-pin power connector and the CPU power cable plugged firmly into the motherboard first, obviously.
Better start saving up for those new components... 🙂 Honestly, this Intel Pentium G3220 I just added $133 is basically 25 times more powerful than all that old junk 😁—plus, it actually comes with integrated graphics built right in.
If you're just doing this for the first time, you probably don't quite have a feel for it yet 😁 But hey, at the end of the day, the main thing is that it works and the problem is solved...
Are you talking about that latch mechanism—the one where you press down to pop the card out of the PCIe slot? Honestly, I don't see it being an issue at all. The only thing is, when you eventually go to swap out your GPU, it might be a little more stubborn to pull out of the slot than you'd expect... nothing else to worry about.
Do you have anything important on your PC—any data you need to save? I’m asking because you mentioned you just installed Windows recently. If I were in your shoes, I’d honestly just wipe the hard drive and do a totally clean install of Windows—it might be the easiest way to fix this once and for all... it really should work. Otherwise, you might just end up spinning your wheels for nothing, and let's face it, a fresh Windows installation only takes about 20 or 30 minutes anyway. 😁
Click on the Start button in the search box, type SERVICES.MSC and hit the Enter key Go ahead and accept any UAC prompt that pops up—once you're in the Services control panel, just look for this one:
Background Intelligent Transfer Service --just double-click it Check the startup type—you'll want to make sure it’s set to 'Automatic (Delayed Start)' and then just click OK to exit.
Next, find Windows Update and double-click it Again, check the startup type to ensure it is also set to 'Automatic (Delayed Start)' then hit OK.
Now, give Windows Update a manual start and see how it goes...
If everything looks good, try running Windows Updates once more to see if that actually fixes the issue.
The Delete key—basically, you just restart the computer and then mash that Delete key as soon as it starts booting up, and you should be able to jump straight into the BIOS. Once you're in there, take a look and see if the system clock is actually running correctly...
Yeah, honestly—when there are so many names that are almost identical except for one single letter, I just misread it. I thought it was VS instead of VX, so I went ahead and renamed it right away based on that mistake...