Windows 7 doesn't actually support USB 3.0 right out of the box without the right drivers—so you'll just need to head over to the Dell website, find the USB 3.0 driver for Windows 7, and get that installed.
If you have FreeDOS set in the BIOS, you don't really need to mess with much—like tweaking the boot order—since the hard drive is completely empty anyway. As soon as you plug in a USB drive or pop in a bootable DVD with Windows on it, the installation should kick right off... Or, at the very least, you'll just see a prompt on your screen saying something like "press any key to boot."
Richard Ruiz9 said:Alright, I got it fixed—seems fine for now, though I’ll have to reinstall the language pack again. It's also throwing a notification at me saying I need to activate Windows within the next nine days. On top of that, I'm dealing with some weirdness with Windows Explorer; after a while, I get a "Windows Explorer has stopped working" error, the whole PC freezes for a few seconds, and then everything just goes back to normal.
I’ll say it again—you’re probably better off just wiping the drive and doing a fresh installation of Windows. Honestly, you could have done that ages ago; you've been dragging this out for days and still haven't actually fixed the root cause.
It doesn't really matter which version of macOS you're running—it’s all pretty much the same... Just take a look and see if you notice any yellow warning icons.
Kate Adams83 said:If anyone happens to have a working link, could you please shoot me a PM? I can't seem to find it anywhere... no idea why, honestly.🤦
What Drew Allen77 mentioned is actually a solid little program too—I use it myself all the time.
I wouldn't recommend running an upgrade on a system that's struggling like that... Honestly, the root of the problem is that you allocated only 50 GB to your C drive right from the jump—you really need at least 100 GB if you want to avoid these kinds of headaches. As for Windows itself, there isn't really such a thing as "original" versus "pirated" software; the main difference is just whether you're paying the extra $100 at a store like Best Buy for a legitimate product key. A Windows installation is still just Windows—the only real variation you'll find on torrent sites is when people bundle all sorts of random drivers and extra programs directly into the installer itself.
I'm done with this kind of stuff—I am never buying from ASUS again. Honestly, I’d bet their GPUs aren't much better either.
Just because one single board failed doesn't mean their entire lineup is garbage, right? You have to remember that brands like ASUS and Gigabyte are actually the industry leaders when it comes to global motherboard sales. It’s the same story with graphics cards—Gigabyte usually has some of the best cooling solutions out there.
Well, in that case—you might want to boot into Safe Mode and move all your important files, like photos and documents, over to an external drive first. After that, just wipe the hard drive and do a fresh installation of Windows.
Maybe try downloading CCleaner and running it in Safe Mode to clear out all that junk—see if that actually frees up some space? If that doesn't do the trick, my honest advice would be to just wipe the drive and go for a fresh installation of Windows.
You really can't compare a laptop and a desktop when they're sitting at the same price point. In terms of raw performance, a desktop is easily going to be 2-3x more powerful than a laptop. Honestly, you should only be looking at a laptop if portability is your main priority...
Why don't you try booting back into Safe Mode? Once you're there, make sure to open the command prompt as an administrator—that part is pretty important—and then just type this in: sfc /scannow
Hit enter and just hang tight while it finishes up.
From what I've seen, the issue usually boils down to a corrupted Windows file—you might want to try running a repair on Windows to see if that clears things up.
EDIT: Are you able to boot into Safe Mode? (just tap F8 while the computer is starting up)
If you haven't lost your mind, then yeah—definitely go for the radeon r9 380.. But before you pull the trigger, what kind of processor are you running, and what's your power supply situation like?