It looks like your hard drive might be giving up on you. Once you're able to boot back into Windows, could you download CrystalDiskInfo and paste a screenshot here? It'll help us get a better idea of what we're dealing with.
Of course they aren't going to mention the mounting bracket and screws when Samsung doesn't even include them in the box—it's just the SSD itself. It's pretty easy to fix, though; you just head back to Best Buy to hunt down a 3.5-inch tray or bracket and some screws. It shouldn't cost you more than $10.
If you've got 4GB of RAM, you should definitely go with the x64 version—that way, the system can actually recognize and use all 4GB properly.
Also, I wasn't quite sure what you meant by your second question... If you need specific software, you can just download whatever you want. For example, you could grab Google Chrome for browsing, and for productivity, you have options like Microsoft Office, LibreOffice, or even OpenOffice.
If I’m following your story correctly—and I really hope I've got this wrong—it sounds like your Dell notebook BIOS ERROR 501 might be a faulty BIOS chip. If that's the case, you’ll probably need to take it into a repair shop to have them swap out the chip entirely. Otherwise, you could always try updating the BIOS yourself? You know, just download the latest version directly from the manufacturer's website for your specific laptop model.
I’ve noticed that people on The Pirate Bay tend to bundle updates with all sorts of random programs and extra junk—honestly, who knows what else they throw in there? I'm really not a fan of that approach. I much prefer having a clean, untouched version of Windows 7, just like the one you linked. Even though I have a pretty decent PC and a solid internet connection, waiting two or three hours for every single update to download and install is such a drag. Having a pre-packaged version would make things so much easier, wouldn't it? If they keep updating their site and adding the 2015 patches, then I'll definitely be heading back there the next time I need to do a fresh Windows installation. 👍
Sean Garcia3 is probably already rocking an EVGA 750W power supply anyway—plus, you suggested the NVIDIA GTX 970 and a 4690, but he actually picked up the AMD Radeon R9 280X and the processor. Maybe try reading a bit more closely?
So, this is pretty much similar to what you find on this site, except this ISO file actually includes all the latest updates and Internet Explorer 11—which is a nice touch. Just one quick question, though: does this page get updated regularly? I mean, do they actually refresh the Windows update dates every once in a while..?
I’m not entirely sure, but you might want to grab AdwCleaner and run a scan with it—it’s specifically designed to wipe out those annoying toolbars and all that other junk.
So, which browser are you currently running? If you don't have Chrome installed, maybe grab it just to see how things behave there. Honestly, it might be worth downloading Malwarebytes as well—just to run a quick scan and get a second opinion. It’s always better to have that extra bit of peace of mind knowing your system is actually clean, right?
I haven't caught up on this entire thread from the very beginning, so I might be missing some context—feel free to set me straight if I've got any of this wrong. If you're planning on swapping out your motherboard for a new one, it’s probably best to just wipe everything and do a fresh Windows installation. Since there's a good chance the new board will have a different chipset, starting from scratch is usually the smartest move.
Check your motherboard manual to see which specific SATA ports are rated for SATA 3 or 6Gb/s—you'll want to plug your SSD into one of those to get the full speed you're paying for. And, of course, make sure you head into the BIOS and ensure the controller is set to AHCI; it doesn't matter if you have a standard hard drive on that same controller too.
To be honest, I tried messing with the registry settings a few years back after accidentally setting my controller to IDE instead of AHCI, and it was a total nightmare because I couldn't get Windows to reinstall properly. That's why I suggested a clean install earlier—between the potential chipset differences on a new board and the risk of the registry tweak not working out, it's just a safer bet.
I think you've got a point there, though maybe not the whole story. Before you go ahead and install Windows onto an SSD, you really should make sure your BIOS is set to AHCI mode. See, an SSD just isn't built to run on IDE—if you try to force it, you're actually cutting into its lifespan. A standard hard drive can technically get by without AHCI, but for an SSD? It’s pretty much essential.
So, how many different wireless drivers are actually listed on the HP website? The real headache is that you don't always get lucky on the first try—sometimes you'll find a few different laptop models that look identical, but they actually use totally different chipsets. It usually ends up being a bit of a process where you have to test them one by one until you finally land on the right one...
The big question is—what kind of games are you actually playing, and what resolution is your monitor running at? By the way, doesn't look like you're rocking much of a gaming rig...
There are just too many variables at play here—you really have to test things piece by piece, component by component, to pinpoint exactly where the failure is happening. Otherwise, there’s just no other way to go about it, unfortunately.
Have you tried plugging it into a different USB port on your PC—or better yet, testing it on another computer entirely? If you’ve already done that and it’s still acting up, then it’s likely dead. If you've still got the warranty, I'd say just take it back to the store for a replacement.