Posts by rustysurfer79

silentsailor23 said:what do you think about these printers

http://www.amazon.com/multifunction-printer-deals

http://www.bestbuy.com/multifunction-printers

It's the exact same deal as the HP Deskjet 1050.

Competition is just competition, I guess.

They both walk away with the same slice of the pie.

silentsailor23 said:I'm also hunting for a printer/scanner combo around $500 that uses compatible inks. Any advice on which model to grab?

For that budget plus tax, you really can't beat the DX 4450 + Colibri package.

The SX 130 + Colibri package costs about the same, but that first one is way more rugged and easier to fix if things go south.

If speed is your main priority, then look at the Canon IP 1800 + CISS.

You could also snag a brand new Nashuatec ST 2100 for that price, but they'll absolutely bleed you dry on ink later. You'll end up right back where you started pretty fast $1000. That's why those first two options are much smarter long-term bets.

Joshua Cook62 said:Everything rustysurfer79 is saying is spot on, but honestly, you can find even better deals out there. Everything combined costs about $174.
http://www.craigslist.com/laser-printer...-listing-2550689
http://www.office-depot.com/ciss-system...284-sx125.html

This is just a perfect example of how sneaky marketing can be. It’s practically an art form at this point.

Nilkad doesn't lie, but they definitely don't give you the whole truth either.

By the time you realize what's actually happening, your 30-day warranty has already expired and you can kiss your cash goodbye.

It’s a classic drip system approach.

Why?

I'd love to hear from someone who actually has a CISS installed in an SX 130 that's been running smoothly for more than 60 days.

Of course, some guy will chime in about his DX 4450 with a CISS that works fine and try to say it's the same thing.

And once that happens, the marketing gets even louder and more aggressive until they run through their stock.

Classic moves.

Joshua Cook62 said:Just wanted to jump in on this thread. My old Epson DX 4450 used to handle all those third-party inks like a champ, but it finally kicked the bucket. Now I'm looking for something similar—basically an all-in-one printer-scanner that can hook up directly to ink bottles via tubes. I've been trying to Google my way through this, but I'm coming up empty.

You could grab the package SX 125 + continuous ink cartridges + Colibri ink

It works perfectly.

You also have the option of the Package
SX 125 or 130 + continuous ink cartridges + Colibri ink

The price is basically the same.

Which one's better?

Go with the DX 4450.

Why?

Because when manufacturers release newer generations on the same platform, they tend to cut corners to save money compared to the older ones.

How?

Simple. A company might try to sell the exact same product for years at the same price point, even though raw material costs fluctuate right along with oil prices.

So, somewhere along the line, the consumer is the one getting the short end of the stick.

Nathan Foster5 said:Hey guys, if anyone knows which printer/scanner combo is currently the best on the market for around $70-$80...

About those third-party cartridges
>>>>>>>>>>>>
Be careful who you trust here.

Check out these three examples:

1. A seller offering knock-off cartridges. They brag about how much ink you actually get.

http://www.printerheads.co.uk/Ink_Ca..._BX_305_F.aspx

2. The manufacturer sells original ink, but they conveniently scrubbed the info on how much ink is actually in the T1281 - 1284 series. Instead, they leave you guessing by only showing the volume for the t1285 pack.
http://www.epson.com/viewcon/consumables/3979

3. An example of playing with an open hand.
http://www.lasermediasupplies.com/...x-ep46534.html

Here’s the catch:
1. They aren't lying about the ink volume in the cartridge, but they fail to mention that you can only use what the chip allows.
2. Again, they aren't lying about the total volume, but they don't tell you how much is in a single cartridge—they just give you the grand total for everything combined, like 3 * 3.5 + 5.9 == 16.4.
3. This one is just being totally transparent, so take it or leave it.

So yeah, watch who you're dealing with. No retailer is technically lying to you, but at the same time, they aren't telling you the whole truth either.

Nathan Foster5 said:Does anyone know which printer/scanner combo is actually the best on the market right now for around $75?

Let’s break this down with a little comparison.

HP Deskjet 1050 = a
vs
EPSON DX 4450 = b

Basically, brand new vs. refurbished.

Look, new is new. Everything comes all neat and tidy—drivers, manuals, cables, a full ink set. It feels like a real treat. The HP Deskjet 1050 is incredibly fast. Honestly, a total rocket. A few years back, printers three times the price ran just like this. You’ll be super happy with the purchase.

The EPSON DX 4450. Just an old, slow drag. It's twice as noisy and three times slower than that shiny player above.

But here's the kicker: after about 50 to 100 prints, both A and B start crying. They're hungry. They want more ink. And if you look at what a bag of Pedigree or Whiskas costs for your pet, there really isn't a massive difference between A and B. You're looking at roughly the same total cost—around $250 $100 for a full ink set.

What about third-party ink? For A, you're out of luck because the manufacturer keeps swapping in new models, kind of like how fashion brands change styles just so people feel they need the latest thing. So, you can't dodge that cost mentioned above.

With B, you have plenty of cheap alternatives, but it's a headache waiting to happen. If you go for the whole deal—the package B + Colibri $167 + tax—you might solve your problems for the next 5,000 prints.

At this point, grab a hammer and hit yourself in the head. Maybe you'll end up with option A, or maybe you'll get B.

rowdyotter10 said:Hey guys,

I've been doing graphic design for a while now, but I always end up outsourcing all my printing jobs to other shops.

I don't want to drop a massive amount of cash right out of the gate—though honestly, I'm not even sure what "a lot" looks like yet, since it all depends on the gear.

So, I'm looking for some advice on what kit I should pick up.

Here’s my wishlist:

- Laser printer (which model, what size, any other specs?)
- Laminator??
- Cutter (manual or electric... which one?)
- Folding machine?
- Binding equipment?
- ???
- ???

Any tips would be huge.

Thanks,

p.s. Just to give you an idea... my typical monthly volume is pretty light. Maybe 200 business cards, about 10 A5 brochures, and maybe 1,000 A5 flyers... nothing crazy. So, for now, I need decent quality without breaking the bank. Later on, if things take off, I might look at investing $10k-$20k.

Regarding that, here's a budget-friendly, tried-and-true solution you should definitely consider if you're in the same boat.

Check out this test print done on some top-tier, affordable Kunstruck paper. Any designers reading this will know exactly what kind of headaches you can run into when pairing certain papers with inkjet printers.

Gregory Scott4 said:The CP was never actually meant for graphic designers. You're missing the point here. I mostly saw those things in architecture firms being used as a cheap alternative to plotters. Honestly, they’re absolute garbage for Photo printing. These days, an HP MF can outprint a CP 1700 any day of the week when it comes to photos. The CP is fine if you don't have high standards, but let's be real—they only sold well because they shared print heads and ink with the plotters. If you were buying a plotter, you usually grabbed a CP too. So, stop acting like it was some holy grail just to move units.

Look, the HP DesignJet 500 and the CP 1700 == are basically the same machine. Same heads, same ink, same drivers. Or at least, if I remember right, there was a Postscript version available. That means it definitely had something for the pros. Most offices don't even need Postscript.

http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport...ectID=bpd50113

Gregory Scott4 said:You've got a point there 🙂 But honestly, that series just isn't built for high-end Photo printing.

Since when did blueprints become high-res photos?

I mean, who actually needs this level of detail unless they're some hardcore perfectionist?

It’s basically the same engine, same mechanics, and the same ink. The only real headache is that the HP 2800 has a crappy driver, so you have to use the one from the CP 1700—which, back in the day, was basically the gold standard for designers.

Why do they do it?

Because HP wants to nudge their loyal customers toward dropping the big bucks on a B9180 if they want true Photo quality.

Dennis Young57 said:How can I print out a page that shows the total page count, kind of like this:

if I'm buying a used K8600?
Also, what should I look out for when buying second-hand?

Main thing is making sure the print heads are actually okay. You want to be certain there aren't any flow issues and that the ink tanks are topped off. Honestly, those basic status tests don't tell you much.

The only way to be 100% sure is to have an actual HP service center look at it. Of course, they'll charge you about $50 just for the visit. You can't really do a deep dive on a machine in like 30 minutes.

Dennis Young57 said:What’s the actual difference in print quality? Like, how waterproof or smudge-proof is the ink against moisture?
Basically, what's the deal between using an HP Thermal inkjet method versus something like an Epson WP-4025DW?
Is the HP Inkjet 2800 just as tough and reliable?
Also, how smart is it to pick up an HP laser duplex LJ 3525 ?? for an office setting?

Since HP uses thermal tech, they can't really go with polymerizing inks, but they can definitely use UV-resistant pigmented ink.

The HP 2800 is ancient. It hasn't been made in years and honestly, it's junk. Do everyone a favor and toss it in the trash immediately so you stop bothering people.

Buying a laser printer with duplexing is never a smart long-term move. Toner starts sticking to the fuser roller during the first pass, and then it's a mess on the second. Once the fuser goes, you basically need a whole new printer.

How rugged is the HP 3525 ?? compared to a Lexmark E350D at the same price point? Probably less tough.

It's because that thing is a high-speed beast that isn't worth the cost of repairing.

Dennis Young57 said:How much does color quality actually matter for printing documents (blueprints, energy certificates, etc.)?
Honestly, I don't think I care at all!
But still: I'd love some advice from someone who’s been there. Any suggestions on printer setups that would fit my office workflow? Basically, what other printers or all-in-one units should I be looking at based on actual experience?

An HP Business A3 series paired with a CISS and KMP Premium ink equals a lifespan of 50,000 to 80,000 prints.

http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/us/en...448.html?dnr=1

It works, trust me.

Same mechanics, same HP 88 head, same HP 88 ink, same CISS = 140,000 prints.

http://rustysurfer79.com/A_REF/Pict/HP-Pro-K-550-140-000.jpg

And why do you think they don't make printers like that anymore?

Dennis Young57 said:Alright, look, I just can't get behind buying used gear.

Here’s a quick little test for anyone thinking about dropping cash on the latest printer model.

1. Print something out.
2. Take that exact same sheet and print over it again.
3. Do that three times in total.

Then you can go ahead and pull your hair out for not listening to the veterans.

See, an old HP DeskJet from ten years ago has such a tight tolerance that any brand-new model could be hidden within a tiny 0.5 to 1 mm gap.

Check out this example of three passes on one print. The offset is less than 0.3 mm.

Using Artist waterproof ink.
Why does this matter?

Because it lets you control exactly how much ink hits the surface.

Seriously, why is it important?

Think about making transfer templates for a Circuit Board where you need maximum opacity.
Or using them as a DIY alternative to a DTG printer that usually runs you around $70k-$80k.$0.00.

But here, you're getting the same result for maybe $1,000.$667. The ink is identical, and you're using the same amount of ink to get the same coverage.

The key thing to notice is that after three passes, the intensity of the template didn't really change because we're talking about pigment ink. Only the transparency shifted.

Gregory Scott4 said:Oh, totally. rustysurfer79 is basically fighting a global industry conspiracy here. I mean, he’s already exposed HP, figured out who took the shot at Kennedy, knows what's hiding on the dark side of the moon, identified that brunette in Čačić's car over in Canada, and even let everyone know that Monica was spitting on Clinton...

Man, those are nothing compared to the conspiracy Canon cooked up to fight off those Chinese knockoff cartridges.

How so?

It's simple.
1. Someone uses up a disposable Canon cartridge.
2. Someone else grabs it from the trash and sells it to a Chinese supplier.
3. The Chinese guy refills it and sells it to some small-time entrepreneur as a "new" compatible cartridge.
4. Some little guy picks it up because it's 30% cheaper than the actual OEM stuff.
5. But Canon put a hidden flag on the cartridge chip that only kicks in after 14 to 30 days—basically, once the printer recognizes via the serial number that the cartridge has been used before. It locks the cartridge down, regardless of how much ink is left or if it’s ever even been in that specific printer. On the flip side, if you just refilled it and kept using it in the same machine while making sure you didn't run dry, the printer wouldn't lock it. This whole setup prevents recycling one thing for another. Unless, of course, you manage to use it all up before Canon locks it out. So yeah, you can only recycle it once.

So why don't they just lock it immediately?

Because then the little guys would realize what's actually happening. They'd miss the window to return a faulty cartridge and instead just send it straight to that third-party ink manufacturer. Then they'd be like, "Fine, from now on I'm only using original ink."

It's pretty much the same deal with Lexmark. But that also affects the printer itself.

With HP, it doesn't work quite like that. But their printheads are way more sensitive than Canon's, so we end up right back where we started.

Basically, EPSON + permanent cartridges and a proven ink setup is the gold standard for cheap prints.

Amanda Sullivan said:I really need some advice on which all-in-one printer (scanner/copier combo) I should grab. I’ve been using an EPSON SX105, but I think I totally trashed it. 🤷 Honestly, I know zero about printers, but since money was tight, I bought some third-party inks thinking they'd be fine. A couple worked, but now it won't recognize any of them—not even the one color that's actually original. I have no clue what happened; I thought those inks were perfectly legal to use. 😁 It won't print a thing, it just flashes at me and says the colors aren't recognized... 😢

So, I'm guessing it makes more sense to just buy a new one rather than trying to fix this mess. I'd love a recommendation because I am seriously lost when looking at the options. The people at the local tech store weren't exactly helpful when I mentioned I wanted something that could run on cheap ink, like generics or something similar...

To sum up: I need an all-in-one, lowest price possible, cheap ink/toner is the priority. Speed doesn't matter, and I don't even need Wi-Fi... Just something that gets the job done. 😍 I don't print much, just the occasional photo or some text for studying and stuff... If anyone has a link to something like that, please... 😍

For stuff like that, there's a Plug and Play bundle: Printer + Scanner + Copier + reliable refill cartridges that actually work (meaning it's not the latest model) + ink for the 88 cartridges. But unfortunately, nothing cheaper than that $167 + sales tax. Basically, it's a very similar printer, but the whole package actually works.

If you go out and buy a brand-new, latest-gen model plus generic cartridges, you'll just end up banging your head against the wall again in a few moon cycles. For other reasons too, the whole setup just won't cooperate. It's not in anyone's interest to make it easy; they just want to take your money again. Including the "sales tax."

Dennis Young57 said:Thanks for the reply.
So, using Artist ink on those printers would give me waterproof prints, and it’s supposedly easy on the nozzles.
That clears things up! I don't really plan on using photo glossy paper anyway.
So, what's the damage for that ink? Is it 4*100ml=$43 plus tax or what?
One more thing:
What's the deal with pigment photo ink? For example, the EPSON R2000 / R3000 or Canon PRO-1 / PRO-10 use pigment photo inks for making photos and posters at home!
On foreign forums, they call it top-tier ink, but only for the best models
or ones with CISS systems.
But this seems geared more toward graphic designers, though it’d be pretty cool to print some posters and photos at home!
How suitable are these kinds of printers for something like an engineer's office?

Pigment ink and photo ink just aren't the same thing.

Even if we have that pigment Premium PHOTO ink for the R 2000.

Why is dye ink better?

Because it offers way more shades and deeper tones within the same color family.

How?

With dye PHOTO, you get that Ink Stacking effect.

See, since pigment ink is basically an opaque coating, you don't get consistent color interpretation when printing bi-directionally because of how the nozzles hit the page. This means the printer has to run uni-directionally. That's why it ends up being about 50% slower than a Photo printer using dye ink. Plus, with pigment ink, "stacking" doesn't actually create a new shade—the color is strictly limited by the pigment itself. But with dye ink stacking—whether through multiple passes, dot-on-dot, or varying droplet volume—you can pull almost any tone from light to dark using the exact same base ink.

For engineering work, you honestly don't need anything more than a 4-color system.

Dennis Young57 said:Thanks for the reply.
So, using Artist ink on those printers would give me waterproof prints, and it's pretty easy on the nozzles, right?
That clears things up! I don't really plan on using glossy photo paper anyway.
So, what's the damage on price for that ink? Is it 4 * 100ml = $43 plus tax, or what?
One more thing:
What kind of "photo pigment ink" are we talking about here? Because, for example, the EPSON R2000 / R3000 or the Canon PRO-1 / PRO-10 use pigment photo inks for making photos and posters at home!
On foreign forums, people say this stuff is top-tier, but only for the high-end models
or those with CISS systems.
From what I can see, this is mostly aimed at pros, but it would be cool to print some posters and photos at home!
How well would these types of printers actually work in a setting like an engineer's office?

Let's take this one step at a time.
Here are 3 or 4 examples using Artis ink.

1. Printed on standard 80lb Sticky cellulose paper. The left side uses Artis ink, while the right side uses a super fine Dye ink. After 30 minutes—with zero heat treatment—I dunked the paper into a tray of photo developer water and just left it there overnight.
Check out the results:

2. Same printer, same ink. This was printed on some mesh. Basically, the surface has to be porous.

3. Everything else is the same, but printed on rubber transfer paper and heat-pressed onto twill. The whole thing was washed, crumpled, and even torn.

4. Same ink again, just a different printer, but this time it's printed on water slide paper and transferred onto twill.

Dennis Young57 said:Alright, we settled the printer question.
But looking at the shop, rustysurfer79 offers a bunch of different ink types for these machines.
What’s actually the deal with all these inks—what is each one meant for?
How do they affect how long the printer lasts, plus the overall print quality?

I usually have about 20 different types of ink in stock. We can break them down into a few main categories:

1. Dye class >> This is the cheapest option for everyday use and causes the least amount of headaches if you match it right with your refillable cartridges. We split this into two tiers: Budget and Premium. The Premium stuff is basically the best we could find on the market, and it runs about 4x the price of the Budget line. The Budget line is pretty much what everyone else is selling, except ours is fresh because we ship it by air. Most other guys import by Sea and have no clue what they're actually getting. Here, we get direct feedback through our service department regarding quality and any issues. The real difference between Premium and Budget comes down to calibration and color intensity.

2. Artis class >> Water-resistant pigmented ink. For anyone wanting to put something permanent into a CISS setup. It’s about 4 times pricier than the cheapest option. Since it's pigmented, it's not the perfect choice for a high-end PHOTO consumer. However, using it for stickers or on rubber transfer paper gives awesome results. It also works great for making scented keychains. It’s also solid for printing on PCB boards because the ink contains a polymer that makes it water-resistant once cured, without clogging the nozzles. Only one version available.

3. Sublimation class >> Specifically for transferring designs onto polyester shirts and mugs. Just one version.

4. Edible ink >> For printing on communion wafers and things like that. Use rice paper or cellulose. Doesn't work on Epson. Only for Canon. There are two versions: one with natural pigments and one with synthetic ones. The difference is that synthetic pigments are closer to standard CMYK colors, while the natural ones are the healthier choice.

5. Eco-solvent ink >> Only for Mimaki and Roland plotters.
6. Sticky ink >> Only for HP printers using the Adobe Hybrid print system.

etc.

Basically, your best bet is grabbing a package of permanent cartridges plus Colibri ink. Based on experience, your printer's lifespan will be about 2 * 4 * 100 ml of ink or 2 * $43 + tax. Do the math on how much you save compared to OEM cartridges. After that, just go buy a new printer. Everyone wins.

Dennis Young57 said:So, picking the right printer is fine.
The real trick is making sure you don't buy garbage ink.
How do you actually spot high-quality ink?
When a company like Inkrepublic sells printers with a Continuous Ink Supply System, it’s usually a sign they're solid.
Are customers happy with those setups?
Looking through some US forums, people seem to agree that stuff from Inkrepublic, Inkjetcarts, Inkjetmall, and Inkjetfly is top-tier, and nobody's complaining about the issues little Perica is running into.
Basically, the market isn't as bleak as it looks at first glance.
Those older printer models are proven to work, but I'm personally not feeling the whole "buying used" thing.

Good questions.

You won't really get the full answer until these printers become old models that aren't even manufactured anymore.

It's like you think older printers were never brand new. People weren't asking these same questions back then.

Dennis Young57 said:So, since we're already talking about replacing an old A4 color printer and hitting around 300 pages a week, and we touched on the whole CISS thing:
What do you guys think of my upcoming printer setup?
Just looking for a basic A4 color printer that can handle double-sided printing. HP OfficeJet Pro WP-4025DW It’s got Wi-Fi and those bigger 3.7 oz ink tanks. Perfect if you need to knock out some color A4 stuff or double-sided prints.
I might just grab one that comes with a CISS or those refillable tanks.
I'm looking for an HP OfficeJet Pro to serve as my go-to for color printing on standard letter size. I also need it to handle some occasional tabloid-sized prints and scanning, specifically for those larger blueprints and docs. Ideally, I'd want something equipped with a Continuous Ink Supply System or at least some high-capacity ink tanks.
This looks like my dream setup for my future office, but I'm wondering if anyone has a better idea for a printer configuration. Please hit me with your suggestions or any critiques you've got!

I was checking out some info on the HP OfficeJet Pro WP-4025DW. It looks like a pretty solid setup if you're trying to make things run smoother at home or in a small office. If you’re looking to save a bit on those constant ink refills, setting up a Continuous Ink Supply System might be the way to go. It definitely beats running back to the store every time you print a stack of documents.

I was digging through some old files and found this info on the HP OfficeJet Pro. It’s pretty straightforward stuff if you're looking to get the details on how it handles things like ink and overall performance. Just thought I'd share in case anyone else is hunting for specs on this model.

Man, we’re seriously repeating ourselves here... you’re gonna get the actual receipt delivered right to your doorstep during lunch.

Nobody actually knows what kind of code they're running on these latest models. Only the manufacturer knows exactly what kind of mess they've cooked up behind closed doors. If you don't believe me, just look at this fresh printout right here.

If you’re asking little Perica which ink he’s going to use to refill his cartridges, the answer is simple: whatever is cheapest. To him, ink is just ink. And honestly, that’s exactly how Chinese manufacturers think when they make those third-party replacements. But here’s the catch—the manufacturer basically set a trap for us. See, the latest series of HP printers doesn't have the same number of Black nozzles compared to the color ones. For the Chinese guys making the refills, they figure Black and color ink are basically the same thing. They just swap out the chip and call it a day. The problem? On these newer printers, the Black nozzle count is actually three times higher than the color nozzles. It’s like taking an eye dropper and drilling a hole three times larger in the bottom. You know what happens next? Overnight, all the ink just drains right out of that cheap replacement cartridge. And then little Perica is left crying because those cheap cartridges didn't even last a week. From now on, I'm sticking strictly to OEM ink. Meanwhile, the manufacturer is just sitting back there laughing at us. Yeah, they really played us.

It’s basically the same thing, just from a different angle. Since those CYMBk replacement cartridges use the exact same design and we're dealing with a 3-nozzle setup here, you technically can print three times faster. That means you can burn through ink three times quicker, too. But here's the catch: since the replacement cartridges are built identical to the originals, if the flow isn't perfect, the whole design falls apart when you try to crank up the speed. You run out of ink mid-job and the print head starts failing. Suddenly, you're seeing these annoying white lines everywhere. The pressure balances out through the neighboring nozzles, and sometimes tiny bits of paper dust get sucked in and clog everything up. And honestly? The manufacturer still gets to act like the hero. They basically screw us over. "Why didn't you just use our expensive OEM cartridges?" they ask, like it was our fault all along.

And you guys just follow orders like good little sheep and pay up.

That’s just how it goes with all these new printers. Nobody even looks at the older models anymore because everyone already knows the drill. You and guys like you have already figured out all the tricks and workarounds.