Dennis Collins38 said:So, how much do you actually trust the critical parts of your ride—the stuff that keeps you from ending up in a ditch?
Pretty much. I gotta be careful since I love tearing it up on the highway...
Right now, I’m not totally happy with just the tires (they've done their time and are begging for replacements) and the worn-out pads, especially the fronts (those definitely need swapping). Everything else is still sitting at a solid 5.
Patrick King7 said:I honestly think silentpanther15 is playing dirty with those formulas, though I've got no clue which specific model he's using. Pretty sure he even pitched them to someone else once!
Betty Edwards22 said:To be honest—never heard of it. But I’m still deep in the research phase, so I’ll take any good advice. Question: if you buy through them, how does shipping actually work?
A few high-end Lapier full-suspension bikes just flew off the shelves in Austin. I actually went out for a ride with the new owners. You guys should definitely check them out there. I can't remember the name of the bike shop, though.
Look... Lapierre is an absolutely killer brand. The finish on them is seriously impressive. Their mountain bikes are honestly gorgeous. They don't look like anything special in photos, but seeing them in person, you really notice those little details that make them stand out.😉
Kevlar is solid—you see it in Cannondale setups, tubeless builds, and even those budget rigs are way better now. As for the tires themselves... Geax actually puts some pretty killer graphics on their sidewalls. 😁
Here’s the lowdown from the Formula website: Only use DOT 4 Super hydraulic brake fluid straight from a sealed container. Don't let those bottles of DOT fluid sit open for too long—this stuff sucks moisture right out of the air, which messes with the physical properties and can seriously tank your braking performance. Make sure you swap out the brake fluid every two years at the absolute most.
First off, that caliper is total junk, but you're lucky the hydraulics aren't quite as bad. Basically, nothing's gonna happen.
A Formula or XT setup with a 160mm rotor is going to outbrake a 486 (which is more like an entry-level Shimano level, if I recall) even with an 180mm rotor. Bottom line: don't sweat it. Actually, I'd say go for the upgrade.
Forget the extra luggage; just swap in a bigger drive and get the right adapter. Problem solved. Yeah, we’ve been doing that for ages. Most of us have.
No clue. But honestly, I don't think it's that hard to figure out these days. 😁
Like, say two BMX air tanks run you about $13, and one of Stan's notebooks costs maybe $100. Might even be a bit more. But you get enough for several sets.
Paul Davis51 said:Is it actually worth grabbing conversion kits like Stan's notebooks?
You can run those kits until they literally fall apart. Ghetto setups? They last right up until you peel off the first rubber band, then it's back to square one.
Not sure about the build quality since I haven't tried them myself, but people seem stoked on both the DIY stuff and the kits. Honestly, though? The happiest riders are the ones running the original OEM wheels. 😁
I don't know... Bugsy, a buddy of mine, uses those sealant plugs and I was honestly blown away by how fast they fix a flat.
But if you ask me? Everyone should just be running tubeless! Forget air compressors and messy patches! Just build yourself a little DIY setup and call it a day...
You can improvise a lot of stuff out on the trail. You could even fix a split sidewall while running tubeless if you're crafty enough. But hey, you've got a point...
If you aren't running tubeless, you definitely need to carry a spare tube and some stick-on patches (forget those old-school glue ones, they suck). Also grab some tire levers—especially if you're rocking non-folding tires—and a pump.
Personally, I usually just toss a CO2 cartridge and an adapter in my pocket along with a small set of hex keys (3, 4, 5mm). It all fits right in my jersey pocket, so I don't even have to mess with saddlebags...
