Anyway, I’ve decided that when I head over to Best Buy tomorrow, I’m going to pick up this XFX card. It should be significantly quieter than what I’m running right now, which is a relief because my current setup has been driving me absolutely crazy; it’s honestly unsettling how much the fan noise spikes the second I launch any application 🙂
I appreciate everyone's patience, and sorry if I caused any confusion. I'll be heading out to grab this 🙂tomorrow
Just wanted to double-check here, because this specific listing mentions a minimum system Power Requirement 450 w, and I’d much rather ask around now than realize I've wasted my hard-earned cash on something that won't actually work once I get it home. 🙂
Thanks so much for the help... I think I’m going to end up pulling the trigger on an XFX card tomorrow 🙂 because I really need that specific VTX 3D ATI Radeon HD 4850 1GB DDR5... I’ve heard some chatter about them being a bit power-hungry, so I'll send over the link once I'm back at my desk, since typing this out on my Samsung Galaxy S is proving to be a bit of a chore... but from what I can see, XFX builds such high-quality gear that I'm leaning toward grabbing that one.
I’m really hoping this power supply can handle the graphics card without breaking a sweat, especially since the manufacturer's website lists 450W as the recommended minimum. I’d much rather have some extra breathing room than deal with a system that’s constantly teetering on the edge of instability or causing unnecessary headaches during a heavy gaming session.
Since I sent this from my phone, I can't really go back and edit the post, so here is the link to the power supply currently running in my rig http://www.computeruniverse.net/prod...2-420-watt.asp The unit is getting pretty loud, and if I recall correctly, the folks over at engadget.com were already suggesting that I should swap it out sooner rather than later 🙂)
Alright, I think I've narrowed my choices down to either the LC 560W unit or maybe one of those XFX 450W models. To be honest, the pricing is throwing me for a loop because it doesn't seem to make sense; I've seen some 450W units priced higher than the 550W options, which is pretty confusing. I am leaning toward the LC model, though I really hope the build quality is decent this time around, since the old LCA unit I currently have is honestly terrible. Let me dig through my desk and see exactly which one I'm running right now.
I’ll probably take a look at the first one or maybe the last option, provided I can manage to free up some extra cash by then 🙂 there really is a massive difference between them
Do you think a 450-460W unit would be enough to comfortably handle this build? Since the PC is mostly for gaming mixed with some light office work and faxing tasks anyway. I might even consider adding a hard drive, a different motherboard, or more RAM down the road.
From what I've been reading online, everyone seems to steer clear of LC POWER, so if I go with this third option... do you think it should be reliable enough to keep everything running smoothly?
Hey everyone, I’m planning to head over to Best Buy this Monday to take advantage of some sales, and I've been thinking about picking up a new power supply.
My current setup looks like this: Intel Q6600 A pretty mediocre motherboard—I can't recall the exact model off the top of my head, so I'd have to double-check later. 2GB of RAM (though I’ll likely grab another 2-4GB soon) ATI HD 4850 1GB DDR5 Two hard drives (500GB + 300GB) Right now, I'm running a cheap, unreliable 400W unit, and before I go ahead and install this ATI graphics card, I really want to swap out the power supply so I don't end up frying my components.🤣
I'm looking at one of these three options:
or
or
As long as it can handle daily gaming sessions for me and my roommate without any issues.🙂
I'm not exactly an expert when it comes to power supplies, so I figured it would be better to ask you all first.
Austin Hall95 said:I actually inherited this laptop from my daughter, so it doesn't have the American language pack installed, which is really the only issue I'm running into here.
If you head over to the Control Panel—I believe it's tucked away under the Updates section now—you should be able to select the option to download and install the specific language pack you need.😁
Austin Hall95 said:Everything is running smoothly, I just feel like I should probably upgrade my version of Windows
I was wondering, what's the reasoning behind that move? What extra features would you actually get from moving up to Ultimate that aren't already available in the home edition?
Thomas Hernandez21 said:(you should probably shut down your laptop before flipping it over).[/COLOR]
I’m curious about the reasoning here. I ask because I actually know a few people who would just flip a running laptop upside down just to see what the bottom casing looks like 😁
It actually comes down to how you're launching the game via your shortcut. If you navigate over to C:/Program Files/EA Sports/FIFA 2011, you'll notice there's a specific file labeled fm-MCE (Media Center Edition). I remember running into a similar glitch once when I was setting up my home office; whenever I launched the game through that particular file, it would automatically trigger the Media Center every single time I closed the program. To fix this, just go ahead and swap out your current desktop shortcut—or wherever you usually click to start the game—with the fm.exe file instead. That should clear everything right up for you.
@analoglynx37/">@@analoglynx37 ... honestly, what they were reporting on the news was just complete nonsense. @wanderingbadger17/">@@wanderingbadger17 .... I wouldn't bother picking up a new HDD right now because you really won't notice any tangible difference... and as for laptops, some models support upgrades while others just don't.
The machine would certainly feel snappier if it had a 7200rpm drive, though you’d likely notice the extra noise and heat coming from the chassis, and honestly, if your day-to-day routine just involves standard tasks, you probably wouldn't even register the difference much anyway.
It didn't crash, because I actually made sure to use it right before I started the Windows installation 🙂 ...I'll be sure to double-check everything later :/
Arthur Lewis2 said:honestly, Bluetooth on laptops is notoriously unreliable most of the time...
It actually worked perfectly fine before, which is exactly why I'm trying to get it running again. It’s not that I absolutely can't live without it, but I just can't quite wrap my head around why it suddenly refuses to accept any drivers right after I finished installing Windows. :/🤷
I figured I’d jump in here and ask for some help too 😁
I've been working with my HP 6830 and Windows 7 Ultimate x64 lately, but ever since I finished the installation, I've run into a bit of a snag with the Bluetooth drivers. Every time I try to run the setup, it insists that the hardware isn't even there. It's a bit baffling because everything was working perfectly just last week, and I didn't have any issues running it on Windows XP either. It seems like this problem only popped up after my most recent reinstall; now, when I check the Device Manager, I'm staring at two yellow warning icons. Does anyone have any advice or steps I should follow to get this sorted out? 😁