So, I’m dealing with this Epson EcoTank ET-2800 and it’s driving me up the wall. First, it starts flagging that the magenta is empty—totally fine, right? So I popped in a fresh cartridge. But the printer is still acting like there's zero magenta left. Then I realized—duh—the cartridge I first used was actually expired, so I figured that was the culprit. I went out and bought a brand new one, but even then, those color bars are still showing nothing for magenta. I ran the HP software, and according to the diagnostic, the printhead is "good," but there’s just a constant exclamation mark next to the magenta ink level. I’ve tried everything—restarting it, power cycling it, unplugging it from the wall... nothing works. It’s just stuck.
What am I missing here? Is there anything else I can try to fix this myself before I have to drag it to a repair shop?
Epson EcoTank ET-2800. Every time I hit print, the machine goes through all the motions like it’s actually going to work, but then—bam—I get this error message popping up on both the printer screen and my laptop:
success is counted sweetest critical analysis
The thing is, I didn't get any heads-up that an ink cartridge needed replacing or anything like that. I tried the whole "turn it off and back on again" routine since that's what the manual suggests, but absolutely nothing. Even the help center suggested the old-school trick of pulling the plug to hard reset it, but nope—didn't help one bit.
Is this a "take it to a repair shop" situation, or is there something else I can try before giving up? Honestly, this thing has barely printed anything in its entire life, so it’d be a total disaster if it’s already kicked the bucket.
Where on earth are you supposed to find the self-isolation status on the official portal? So, I tested positive via PCR, and yesterday my local health department told me I’m stuck in isolation for 10 days—apparently, because it’s been more than four months since my second dose. Then today, an epidemiologist calls me up and basically tells me the health department has no clue what they're doing and isn't even tracking this properly, claiming my isolation is actually only 7 days. He also mentioned it would be a smart move not to head straight to the pharmacy or the FBI office right after my quarantine ends—mostly because their system is incredibly slow, so I might still show up as "red" in the database even if I'm technically cleared.
rapideagle95 said:Because of my family history and after getting some genetic counseling, I’ve been advised to get regular checkups every six months—specifically breast ultrasounds and abdominal ultrasounds.
Since we're dealing with a fibroadenoma—which, according to my doctor, "a bad radiologist will struggle to spot, but a good one can read the image without any issues"—I'm looking for recommendations on where to go for regular ultrasounds: New York City or Indianapolis.
Basically, I need a solid, experienced radiologist that I can see consistently, rather than bouncing around to different people every six months... Thanks a lot!
Dr. Tarle in New York City. For an ultrasound, go to Tarle in Petrinja.
I picked this up online, so I’m honestly not even sure how the warranty situation would play out here. But, looking back at what G / Duk said—now that I actually think about it—this whole mess started right around the time I plugged my SanDisk Extreme Pro USB 3.1 into the receiver's port.. In the meantime, after I finished typing my last post, I pulled the USB receiver out, downloaded the Logitech Options software from the Logitech site, and paired the mouse via Bluetooth through the app. And you know what? It’s actually working! 🎉 I’d been avoiding that because I heard somewhere that Bluetooth was a total nightmare for mouse stability. Now I just have to hope I didn't jinx it!😁
We're talking about the Logitech MX Master 3S here. https://www.logitech.com/en-us/produ...wireless-mouse
I’ve been using this thing for about a year and a half now, and lately, it’s started acting up—like, seriously acting up. I move the mouse, and the cursor just sits there, stuck like a stubborn mule. Or it finally decides to move after several seconds of nothing. Sometimes I’ll swirl the mouse around the desk and the cursor won't budge at all, then suddenly, out of nowhere, it just flies across the screen like a panicked fly. Honestly, it’s impossible to get anything done. According to the specs, this little light is supposed to be the battery indicator. But when it actually lights up (it only glows one color, by the way), the mouse stops working entirely. And it doesn't even stay lit consistently. I already swapped out the battery for a brand-new one, but that didn't fix a damn thing. I ran some cleaning software, but it found absolutely nothing. A restart? No luck there either. My mouse pad is clean, and the sensor on the bottom of the mouse is spotless. Before I got this one, I had the exact same issues with other brands after just a few months—and they weren't cheap either, I remember paying over $100 for a Dell. So, I figured maybe it was because they weren't Logitech. And now, here we are, even with this one. Does this mean the mouse is officially dead?
Yeah, I’m definitely going with a bigger drive. That part is set in stone. I just haven't pulled the trigger on the specific model yet—I originally picked this Samsung one based on some top-tier recommendation lists I saw online. I was actually leaning toward the WD Black, but Future doesn't even have the 500GB version in stock. Honestly, looking at the price, it would probably end up being about the same as the Samsung anyway, so... I'm going to spend a little more time digging through what else Future has on the shelves and seeing how they actually stack up in terms of performance. Thanks for the tip.
In that case, I’m definitely upgrading the GPU—that’s about a $100 difference right there. I already know about the USB ports on the motherboard, but those are fine for stuff that stays plugged in permanently. But when you need quick access for things you actually use? That's a different story...🤔Yeah, sure... he could probably get by with less. But if he's already set his heart on that EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G3, then whatever, let him have it.
It’s just one endless cycle of combinations. There are so many choices out there, but you actually have to know how to pick the right ones—luckily, there are people here who actually know what they're talking about, so I'm hoping for some solid answers. First off, we can definitely make some tweaks, but my main concern is whether a PC built from these specific parts will actually run smoothly. I need to know if everything is compatible and if there aren't any massive bottlenecks hiding in there. That kind of feedback is absolutely critical for me.
On the subject of modifications... If I decide to go with the NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 6GB, will that Intel Core i5-9600K be able to keep up with it? (Since there are multiple Intel Core i5-9600K options listed in the price sheet, I made sure to include the exact item codes).
The suggested Mid-Tower Case isn't going to work for us because it only offers 2 USB ports—and honestly, I was already second-guessing the EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G3 because it "only" has 3—so yeah, it's a no. Besides, a teenager is eyeing that EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G3 specifically because of the look, and that counts for something 😉
Back in mid-autumn, I was asking for some gaming build suggestions on a thread titled "for the kids." Looking back, I realized that "for the kids" is such a meaningless label—I was at a birthday party recently and watched a bunch of dads act way more childish than their actual children. 😁 Anyway, the initial build we discussed was sitting around $2000, but it turns out we actually have a bit more wiggle room in the budget if we want to spend it. After digging through various suggestions here on the forum, checking out pre-built setups at Best Buy, and scrolling through component bestseller lists, I want to know if the parts listed below will actually play nice together. I pulled everything from Future.
Motherboard ASUS ROG Strix B450M-A, 4xDDR4, AM4 Part number: ASR-B450M-STEEL $272
Processor Intel Core i5-9600K Part number: 0400496 $543
Drive Samsung 970 EVO Plus 250GB Part number: MZ-V7S250BW $217 (or the 500 GB version)
Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2X8) DDR4 3000MHz, CL15, RED Part number: CMK16GX4M2B3000C15R $250
Graphics Card GIGABYTE GeForce® GTX 1660 Ti OC 6GB GDDR6 Part number: GV-N166TOC-6GD $835
Thanks a ton for the specific breakdown. My only thought—and maybe I'm just being picky here—is that we should probably grab a case with more USB ports right on the front panel. You can never have enough of those, seriously. Also, I was thinking about tossing in an internal optical drive just so he doesn't have to keep bugging me to borrow my external one whenever he needs it (even if it’s not super frequent). Is this setup hitting that sweet spot where it won't be obsolete by next year? And more importantly, is the motherboard flexible enough that we can actually swap parts or upgrade things down the road without starting from scratch? What’s the deal with connectivity—Bluetooth and Wi-Fi? Do we need to pick up extra modules for that, or is it built-in? We're just using our standard home network.
Timothy Kim60 said:What budget? Does it include a monitor? If you have one in mind, let us know.
Even running > on medium settings is almost playable on this thing—but the second you try to upgrade to anything modern, you’re going to hit a wall again (assuming we're talking about keeping costs down here).
But whatever he gets next, it’ll definitely need a higher resolution.
Look, I don't have a set budget, and I'm not looking for "budget" builds that force us to swap parts out immediately just to stay relevant. That’s why I mentioned the specific games—I want to find the sweet spot. Even though > runs okay on his current setup, I’m counting on this new machine being able to handle more than just the bare minimum. From my perspective—and I'm clearly no pro gamer, nor is he—it plays fine enough right now. But hey, what do I know? He’s moving over to a desktop, and since he’s paying for most of this out of his own savings, I can't really lecture him too much. I can only offer suggestions and ask for help here so we don't end up throwing money down the drain.
We'd probably be looking at starting somewhere near $400, and heading up from there. But how far up? Which of these options won't be a total mistake? Is it actually better to go with an > or a >? Checking this link https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compar...580/4038vs3923, I noticed some other games he might play, which makes it seem like the GTX is the superior choice. But does it even make sense to jump to > given the monitor he’s currently using? 🤔
If you know any reputable shops, could you link some pre-built configurations that actually offer good value? I looked at Micro Center, but I've heard > and > aren't the best places to shop... So, who's actually worth dealing with?
So, we’re looking to pick up a desktop for a teenager—someone who needs to be able to run Fortnite on at least medium settings. Right now, they're stuck playing on a laptop with everything cranked down to low, and honestly, it's painful to watch. They mostly stick to those shooters where it's all about quick reflexes and constant gunfire. We don't need to worry about peripherals; we've already got that covered.
First off, which retailers should I steer clear of entirely? I know some names have been brought up here before regarding bad service or sketchy deals. On the flip side, are there any specific shops you guys swear by? I'd rather just go straight to the good ones and not waste my time browsing everywhere else. Future-proofing is a big deal for us—we want something that can actually be upgraded later—and we’re definitely leaning toward whatever offers the longest warranty possible.
When I was shopping around for my own gear, I came across this piece of advice suggesting you should aim for a capacity that’s at least two or three times larger than whatever your actual battery needs are. In theory, more is always better—there's really no downside to extra juice—but you have to keep in mind that as that capacity climbs, so does the physical footprint and the weight you're lugging around. If you're looking for my take, go with Anker.
Someone recently reached out to ask me about Lyrica, but I totally botched my answer because I was under the impression my mom had already taken it down to the clinic. In the meantime, I went ahead and cleared out my private messages, so now I have absolutely no clue who I was even talking to. So, if that "someone" happens to be reading this, just hit me up again.
Every time I try to click on my D drive—which is just my flash drive—this annoying notification pops up right in my face. I’ve already spent way too much time digging through random forums online, and everyone keeps suggesting I just format the thing. But here’s the catch: formatting wipes everything clean, and I am absolutely not doing that.
