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Posts by analogseal72

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tubeless vs tubeless: help a newbie out! in Cycling ·
not sure if you saw this yet, but there's actually a huge thread over on Pinkbike all about this exact topic

http://www.dropbike.com/forum/viewto...p?f=14&t=14832

they've got the tubeless conversion kit in stock at REI now$100, at least they did when I swung by a few days agohttp://www.puremtb.com.au/534-693-la...s-four-kit.jpg
Is a 21-speed Shimano Deore setup worth it? in Cycling ·
Here’s a quick video tutorial on how to tune up those derailleurs, it’s actually pretty easy... there are tons of videos about this on YouTube 😉

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkGBajG4TPc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7KKQy0OkUs
HELP !!! I need some advice in Cycling ·
I had such a hard time looking for panniers when I went to Czechia for a little bike trip... ended up just grabbing some cheap ones on Kindle since there wasn't much else... I was really aiming for those Author ones at Trek Bicycle but they sold out right before my eyes 👎

Can't say I regret missing out on those, especially since it rained every single day, goddammit 😁 ... but we made it work by using trash bags for everything... next time I'm definitely bringing a bunch of heavy-duty garbage bags to pack everything in...

Maybe check for some Author gear or maybe Apple () ... they seem way better than this junk I'm riding right now...

And hey, check out Topeak gear over at Ozon Sport, not sure if they have panniers though... they're located over on the new street...

Here's a photo, those red ones are the ones I missed out on, but I picked up some yellow used ones on Dropbike...
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/m...c/P1010019.jpg

P.S. - try emailing Velocity ( http://www.velocity-bikewear.com/ ) because I heard they might be getting panniers and front racks soon... the panniers look solid and the racks are their own brand... not sure if they're actually doing it or if they gave up, but it's worth a shot...
Where can I find PEZ dispensers in the States, specifically those old-school Disney ones..?
Like Donald Duck, Sylvester, Tweety, and stuff like that..

Thanks in advance
Can I still edit my posts after logging out? in Forum Help! ·
Just posting this here so I don't forget... 😁
Can I still edit my posts after logging out? in Forum Help! ·
So, here's the thing... after I finish a post and log out, the edit option just vanishes when I sign back in. Is this happening to everyone else, or did I mess up some setting somewhere? Or am I just blind and missing where it went 🤷 ..
On every other forum I hang out on, I can still edit my stuff after logging out and back in, so this has me a bit thrown 😕
Brake rotors in Cycling ·
I’ll definitely join you guys on the trails soon, but I’ve been totally sidelined for a month and a half now... and looks like I'm stuck like this for at least another month too.. just when I finally picked up a new bike that I haven't even had a chance to ride yet, except for the trip from the shop to my house 😢 ..
Brake rotors in Cycling ·
ruggedharbor77 said:But honestly, it’s the same thing you do with other parts—you just leave them on the bike until they look worn out enough to swap. I mean, okay... maybe you and I just ride totally differently (I ride DH and freeride, plus plenty of tricks that usually end with me eating dirt, so I'm super careful about this stuff), but why take the risk anyway?...


I ride XC... strictly... I actually love the climbs way more than the descents... weird, I know, but that's just how it is... 🙂

I swap certain parts on my bike on a schedule, but yeah, I haven't bled my brakes lately... I didn't even realize DOT fluid worked like that, but since I have Shimano, I never really thought about swapping it... 😉..
So I don't really see what the big risk was by not changing the mineral oil? Since moisture absorption isn't an issue with that kind...

The main things I worry about regularly changing are the chain (and maybe the cassette if it starts skipping after a couple of chains), otherwise I just fix stuff as needed... My fork is probably due for service soon, too... I think I've hit the hour interval that RS recommends for the next tune-up...
Brake rotors in Cycling ·
ruggedharbor77 said:Man, I don't know why you're overthinking this...

God forbid you end up without brakes just because of something as minor as changing the oil for your $33.🤷

I'll probably swap the oil during the Black Friday sales, mostly because my old bike is going up for sale soon and I want to service it first... it's pretty filthy and greasy 😁 ..

And about the "overthinking" part... I really don't think I am. Because regarding mineral oils, what you're saying just isn't right—unless we're all just blindly following Wikipedia 😉 ..

Here's the link, and the important part from the Wiki:

"Most automotive professionals agree that glycol based brake fluid, (DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5.1) should be flushed, or changed, every 1-2 years.[1] Many manufacturers also require periodic fluid changes to ensure reliability and safety. Once installed, moisture diffuses into the fluid through brake hoses and rubber seals and eventually the fluid will have to be replaced when the water content becomes too high. Electronic testers and test strips are commercially available to measure moisture content. The corrosion inhibitors also degrade over time. New fluid should always be stored in a sealed container to avoid moisture intrusion.

DOT 5 is silicone fluid and the above does not apply. Ideally, silicone fluid should be used only to fill non-ABS systems that have not been previously filled with glycol based fluid. Any system that has used glycol based fluid will contain moisture, glycol fluid disperses the moisture throughout the system and contains corrosion inhibitors. Silicone fluid does not allow moisture to enter the system, but does not disperse any that is already there either. A system filled from dry with silicone fluid, does not require the fluid to be changed at intervals, only when the system has been disturbed for a component repair or renewal. The United States armed forces have standardised on silicone brake fluid since the 1990s."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid

Oh, and I found another interesting difference between mineral and DOT fluids
Shimano uses mineral oil, and besides the OEM stuff, you can use Magurin, and from what I hear, it works great for Citroen setups. I had amazing results using Magurin on my Shimano brakes, so give that a shot. Definitely stay away from DOT. Mineral oils have additives to swell the seals, but DOT doesn't. DOT is aggressive and eats through rubber that isn't a high-grade NBR designed to resist DOT fluids. Every brake system has seals designed specifically for the type of fluid it uses, so it makes sense why mixing them is a bad idea.
Brake rotors in Cycling ·
I agree with what I quoted earlier, DOT 4 isn't mineral-based...

Got a new bike now with Hayes brakes, so I'll have to deal with all that in about a year...😁
Brake rotors in Cycling ·
ruggedharbor77 said:It’d be smarter to just swap the fluid, honestly. It loses its chemical properties over time... instead of pulling moisture out of the system—I think it evaporates or something, I don't know, but it matters—moisture just builds up inside. That causes internal rust, which could crack a caliper and leave you without brakes right when you need them most.

That shouldn't be an issue with Shimano hydraulics since they use mineral oil, whereas DOT absorbs water from the air... and I'm running Shimano 😉

Here's some stuff I found on a US bike forum...

"Did a little digging on Wikipedia—DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 are the fluids used by Hayes and Avid. DO NOT MIX them with DOT 5 fluid. DOT 5 is likely that silicone-based "mineral" type, while the others are polyethylene glycol based."

"Also, watch out for water. Polyethylene glycol-based fluids absorb moisture from the air, which REALLY drops their boiling point. Don't leave them in open containers, otherwise your brakes will boil way sooner when you actually ride them.

Brakes that use DOT fluid have to be serviced regularly (meaning, change the fluid) specifically because of that property you mentioned. But with mineral oil, it's different... you just top it off and ride until the brakes fail.
"
Brake rotors in Cycling ·
If you want a bigger rotor, obviously you’ve gotta buy a larger one... plus an adapter to fit your brake caliper to it, yeah...

The oil depends on what brakes you're running—some take mineral oil, others use DOT fluid... honestly, don't mess with it if they're working fine. But if they fail and you don't know how to bleed them, just take them to a shop... My Shimano 525s have been biting perfectly for three years without a single bleed, just swapped pads... it's definitely not something you need to do every week...

If you really want to tinker with them yourself, just download the manual online for your specific brakes and see what they recommend...