Alright, thanks a ton for getting back to me. That actually clears up my biggest headache right off the bat. My second question is more about the whole work permit situation for people who aren't US citizens. Is that even on the table?... I mean, say you have a small business registered here in the States, but you want to hire someone from Mexico or some other non-US country.
I’ve got a couple of questions about setting up a sole proprietorship. First off, the big one: am I on the hook for monthly fees to the government from the moment I register the business until I actually start seeing any profit? For instance, if I open everything up at the end of February but don't pull in a single cent until the end of May, am I stuck paying costs for those three months? I get that once things are up and running and I'm actually making money, there are taxes and other fees to deal with...
Second thing—since I'm looking at registering this business here in the States (I hold dual citizenship in Canada and America), would I be able to sponsor work visas for people coming over from Canada to work for me? If that's actually an option, what kind of headache would the procedure involve?
Wondering if anyone here has run into this kind of headache before. I picked up some software to use, but every time I try to run the installer—it's an .exe file—it hits me with a prompt asking for a password just to move forward with the installation.
The thing is, I don't actually have the password. I was thinking maybe there’s a way to dig it out from somewhere... maybe buried in the files or tucked away in the Windows Registry? Since the program doesn't need an internet connection, it isn't reaching out to a server to verify the credentials in real-time, so there's no direct online check to see if what I'm typing is right or wrong...
Jeffrey Chavez6 said:Memory tops out at 16GB (2x8GB), and any standard 2.5" SATA Solid State Drive will work.
You could swap the Hard Disk Drive for a Solid State Drive, or just toss the optical drive into a Caddy to keep your old hard drive around. These Caddies are pretty much universal—there are two main sizes that fit basically any laptop out there, and you’ll need the 9.5mm one.
Honestly, buying a Solid State Drive on eBay? That's a bit of a gamble, and I'm not even sure it's worth the headache.
If you don't mind me asking, what makes you say that? I've personally done over 150 transactions on eBay and everything has been smooth sailing. I was actually looking at picking something up from an overseas eBay site that I've found to be incredibly reliable...
I wasn't sure if starting a new thread was the right move here, but I couldn't find anything else touching on this... I'm just trying to track down two specific pieces of info for my setup: what's the absolute ceiling for the RAM, and what kind of Solid State Drive can I actually fit in there?
I keep seeing decent deals on drives over on eBay, but they all seem to have such different specs and labels. Is this stuff pretty much universal, or am I going to run into trouble if I pick the wrong one?
darkowl72 said:What about the first part of my post?
Either the router has a physical button you have to press to allow new devices to register, or you have to go into the settings and tell it to look for new clients and let them in.
I can't really know for sure at this point... and even if it were an issue there, I don't even have access to the router settings. 😢
wearymason4 said:It’s more likely a WEP vs WPA2/PSK incompatibility or just a typo in the password rather than a WPS issue on the router. Even if WPS is disabled, anyone who knows the SSID and the password can still connect.
ps: - I actually disabled WPS on my own router because someone nearby was trying to brute-force their way in through it. - I don't see how you'd get a notification that someone is trying to hit your router, darkowl72... how would you even decide whether to let them in?
The password is definitely right, typed in correctly too. The thing is, I haven't even changed the password. I’ve been on this same network for years, until a few days ago when they changed the network name and apparently some other settings, though the password stayed the same.
Could I potentially fix this by cloning someone else's MAC address? I'm pretty sure this specific net extender doesn't let you spoof the MAC address, but would a standard router allow it?
If that actually worked and got me onto the network, how would I even go about sniffing out the MAC address of one of the devices already connected?
Wait, what do you mean by the network isn't public? That’s not even the issue here... the SSID is totally visible, showing up perfectly on every single device I test, but the router just acts like I’m constantly feeding it the wrong password
I'm running into a bit of a headache with my Wi-Fi signal. I can't seem to get online at all, and honestly, I haven't a clue why. I have the password—my boss handed it over personally—but even when I’m standing right next to the router with my phone, it just won't connect. It’s like it simply refuses to acknowledge me... I also tried using a TP-Link extender at my place, but that's giving me the same grief. Even though the extender shows the network clearly with a solid 4 out of 5 bars, it still won't let me through.
The weird thing is, everyone else at the office is surfing the web without a single hiccup. I've cycled through a bunch of different devices now, but nothing works. Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this mess?
Hopefully I attached the right PDF. I’m out at my cabin for the weekend and don't have my own service, so I'm piggybacking on my neighbor's Wi-Fi. Not trying to be a thief or anything—he gave me the password, everything's totally above board. 😉
The thing is, the signal is pretty weak out here, so I picked up a TP-Link extender and got it all set up. It seemed fine at first. I SHOULD MENTION that three phones and a tablet are connected to it and they aren't having any issues whatsoever.
But my PC... that's where the headache starts. After a minute or two—sometimes even fifteen or twenty minutes—it just drops and says "No Internet access." It’s honestly driving me crazy. I’ll start listening to some music on YouTube and then, boom, cut off after sixty seconds.
The machine is an old Medion desktop, and I'm using an RT2500 USB wireless card. Drivers are all updated and good to go; I've never had a single issue with them before this.
If anyone has any idea how to fix this, I’d really appreciate the help...
Heh, I can definitely remember those first few steps myself. But honestly, the subsequent moves... I’m pretty sure you could pull them all off right inside diskpart if you just had the right commands handy. It feels like we're talking about the exact same tool, really—it’s just that one uses the Windows UI while the other is strictly command-line driven...
Nah, there was enough space. I already had Windows 7 installed on that partition anyway, but it threw some error code at me when I tried. I looked it up online, but honestly, I don't even feel like messing with it because of what I just read... I have no clue how to actually apply that fix either...
i accidentally wiped my PC using the DISKPART command 1)open the Command Prompt from the start menu 2)type diskpart into the Command Prompt
3)type diskpart>lis dis 4)select the specific disk number that showed up in your list you'll see a message saying disk 0 or whichever one you picked is now the selected disk
5)type the clean command, and it'll wipe every partition on that disk clean.
The Fix: How do you get your partitions back?
Note:
1)Open Computer Management 2)look at the left pane under storage and pick Disk Management 3)you'll see a bunch of disks listed; find the external drive, internal drive, or USB stick you're trying to fix 4)right-click the partition and choose "change drive letter and paths..." Warning: Don't select Mark Partition as active. That'll end up nuking all the data on your drives. 5)once the "change drive letter and paths..." window pops up, just click add that'll trigger another window. 6)pick a letter from the dropdown list—something like D, E, or F depending on what it used to be then hit ok 7)the drive should pop up now, and your data should still be there.
So, here's the deal. When I jumped into the menu to pick which drive to format (that old C: drive 🙂), I hit this error saying I couldn't actually install Windows on it. I ended up digging around, found diskpart, and ran the clean command... After that, every single partition just vanished . Now I'm staring at nothing but what I mentioned before: Disk 0 unallocated Space 465GB. I'm a bit lost now... Should I go ahead and create new partitions just to get Windows up and running so I can try to recover my data, or am I just making things worse?
Hey everyone, I’ve really gone and done it this time. I managed to create a massive headache for myself. I was trying to install a fresh version of Windows on a buddy's laptop, but things hit a snag midway through. I did a little digging online, and some advice popped up telling me to run the "clean" command via Command Prompt... well, that went exactly as well as you'd expect. Now everything is wiped out, and all I'm looking at is 465GB of Disk 0 unallocated Space. It's just a blank slate. There wasn't anything critical sitting on the C: drive, but there was some important stuff over on the D: drive... Is there any way to reverse this? Any chance I can actually save my friend's data before it's gone for good?...
The way this American team is playing right now... it just doesn't feel convincing. It definitely doesn't feel like they're ready to contend for medals. When I say "medals," I mean even making it to the semifinals feels like a massive question mark, yet everyone seems perfectly content just reaching that stage year after year. Even Ivan himself was talking about the semifinals, whereas in the past, the talk was always about going all the way to the top. I get the feeling they all know deep down that this squad isn't actually prepared for anything major, but hey, maybe I'm just being pessimistic...
On the flip side, looking at the rest of the field, nobody has really stepped up yet. Not even a powerhouse like Spain, who haven't lost a game. Honestly, I think the Americans would have the easiest time holding their own against them. The French weren't exactly spectacular either, and the Danes were absolutely nothing. I liked the Swedes, but they’re still a total enigma to me—I have no idea how far they can actually go...
Yeah, I tried everything, but nothing’s working. The laptop just boots up, flashes those system details for a second, and then immediately cuts to a black screen. That’s where it should be giving me the option to pick between Windows 7 and Windows 8.1, but instead, it just sits there in total darkness for maybe five or six seconds before it crashes and restarts... basically acting like I just hit the power button all over again...
I've run into a bit of a mess here, and I can't seem to shake it. Here’s the deal: I have this old laptop running a dual boot setup with Windows 8.1 and Windows 7. I thought I just closed the lid, but apparently, it went into hibernation or something similar—I didn't realize, and since the battery is shot, the thing just died completely when I had to move it... totally unexpected.
When I finally got it powered back up, I was greeted by this screen
The keyboard was completely unresponsive, so it just defaulted to the option to wipe everything out...
Now, the computer just keeps rebooting in a loop. It won't even let me get to the menu where I usually choose between Windows 8.1 or Windows 7...
The big issue is I absolutely cannot format these drives. I have some incredibly sensitive data on there—I work in the judicial system, so privacy isn't just a preference, it's a requirement. I tried to reinstall Windows 7 onto the same drive to see if I could fix it, but it just threw an error at me: "Setup was unable to create a new system partition or locate an existing system partition. see the setup log files for more information."
That Intel Celeron G1620 is actually a solid little chip. It puts that Pentium 4 to shame, honestly. I really have to wonder how you have the patience to even attempt streaming on a PC like that... If you can scrape together those extra $300, what crimsonstag84 suggested would be a massive upgrade for you.
Look, I wasn't planning on dropping that kind of cash on this rig. I've already got two laptops at home that do all the heavy lifting; this thing is strictly just for movies and streaming...
To be completely honest, it doesn't lag for me even for a second (not sure if I'm allowed to say that), but I use ACE Stream and it works perfectly fine without any issues whatsoever...
If you're hunting for used DDR1 in the States, maybe try reaching out to this guy on Craigslist; he might have more sticks available:
12 milesThe price for 1GB seems reasonable enough... There's also this other seller with more stock:
