There isn't another computer nearby that I can use to create a bootable USB drive... Honestly, he could just drop it off at a repair shop, but it feels like a total waste of money if they're going to charge him for a "fix" when there's practically nothing even broken... (that's my hope, anyway)
Zero points... honestly. I’m planning on dropping the PC off at the repair shop this Monday, though I’d much rather find a way to avoid the hassle. I just can't wrap my head around why he can't get a CD to boot. He even tried a bootable drive with Windows 7, but it wouldn't stand a chance of running. Legacy mode is enabled in the BIOS, so that shouldn't be the issue, and he's still using an old-school PS/2 keyboard 🤷
Greetings. A friend of mine is running into the exact issue described in the title. He powered down his PC, intended to turn it back on after a few hours, but now he’s being met with this specific error message... Since he still has a Windows 8.1 installation DVD lying around, I suggested he attempt a system repair, but the machine simply refuses to boot from the disc. When the prompt appears asking him to "press any key to boot from CD or DVD," he hits Enter—or tries any other key—but the screen just hangs there on that sentence and nothing happens at all.
He also attempted to trigger Safe Mode via the F8 menu, but that option won't even show up. This is a desktop unit... He went as far as resetting his BIOS settings to their factory defaults, but that yielded absolutely no results. Does anyone have any actual advice for this situation?
Keith Wright2 said:Look, I explicitly stated that I installed the damn board that supports 8-core CPUs, and I even mentioned the overclocking, so read the damn post more carefully.
Maybe you should try reading more closely instead of acting blind... did I actually quote your post or was I quoting the new guy? 🙄
Well, I hope my point has been made clearly enough... Everything you need to know is right there in the thread title.
I'm planning on picking up a new monitor this week. I'm looking for something at least Full HD, or maybe even slightly higher, like a 1920x1200 resolution. Currently, when I'm playing Manhattan, I'm getting about 50 FPS at my current resolution. If I make the jump to the resolution I mentioned, roughly how much of an FPS drop should I expect to see? Thanks...
I wouldn't even consider going that route... I’d at least stretch my budget for an EVGA Power Supply like the CX500 v2.3, which delivers 456 W on the 12V rail... (I was browsing some specs on Newegg the other day). As far as I know, that’s the final iteration of the CX500, making it the highest quality version available..
Is there actually a significant performance gap between the 1155 and 1150 sockets? To be honest, my friends are pushing me toward the Intel Core i5-3570 because they claim Ivy runs much cooler than Haswell, even though Ivy is about a year and a half older... I’m trying to figure out if that distinction actually matters in practice. I really don't want to sink a ton of cash into a CPU and motherboard if the payoff is negligible. I’d much rather shell out an extra 400-$167 for a Haswell setup if it truly offers a superior experience... If you know what I mean. My main focus here is gaming at 1080p resolution, paired with a GTX 770.
A few days ago, I picked up four 4-pin fans (PWM) that feature adjustable speed control. I’ve been using CPU-Z to monitor everything, but for some reason, it just shows N/A under the RPM reading. When I check my "standard" fans, the RPM displays perfectly fine... Is there some kind of bug in the software, or did I mess something up during installation? It’s nothing complicated—I simply plugged them straight into the motherboard headers and called it a day...
If this turns out to be the right part, it would be a total game changer.. I'll head over to Best Buy or one of those local computer shops and ask them about it. LP..
Thanks, man, you're a lifesaver. So, if I just plug this into the Molex connector on the power supply and use an adapter to hook up a few more fans, I should be good to go... 🙂
Hey everyone, I’m currently hanging out at a buddy's place and we just finished mounting five fans into his chassis, but we completely blanked on a major detail until just now. It turns out his motherboard only supports four fan headers—one dedicated to the CPU and three for the case fans... So, what's the move here? We've seen plenty of people on YouTube running massive setups with way more fans than this. How do they actually pull that off? Is it just because they're using high-end enthusiast boards with a ton of extra headers, or is there some kind of specific adapter or splitter we should be looking for? Any advice would be appreciated...
graniteharbor85 said:Personally, I lean toward Windows 7 SP1 x64 because it feels like a more serious OS—it’s much better for productivity, yet just as capable when you want to unwind, and frankly, I find it more intuitive to navigate. If you’re specifically hunting for modern apps, a fresh UI, DirectX 11.2 support, or full UEFI compatibility, then by all means, jump over to Windows 8.1 64-bit. Honestly, you can't really go wrong with either one if your main focus is gaming.
Can someone help me out here? A friend of mine is using a Gigabyte motherboard—I'm not entirely sure which specific model, but it definitely has a UEFI BIOS. He found this setting, I can't recall the exact name, but it mentions Windows 8 and then says "Other OS" right next to it. Could someone explain what that actually implies? Does it mean he has full UEFI BIOS support, or am I misunderstanding what that setting does?
EDIT My mistake, let me be more precise. This is what it shows him: Windows 8 Features Other OS