darkowl72 said:Having too many fans can actually cause air turbulence inside your case, which prevents fresh air from actually circulating. Aside from the PSU, GPU, and CPU fans—which are stuck where they are—you just need to make sure you have a clear path of airflow from the front to the back. Basically, you want intake at the front and exhaust at the rear.
If you think you've got some conflicting airflow directions, try turning those extra fans off and then checking your temps. You might actually find things run cooler if you aren't fighting internal turbulence caused by a fan spinning the wrong way.
I've already tried that—the difference was maybe a degree or two, nothing more...
Kimberly Gomez34 said:What kind of case are you running? Specifically, how's the airflow, and has the room temperature gone up lately? It’s pretty straightforward: your idle temps have likely crept up because the PC has been running longer, combined with the rising ambient heat now that summer is hitting. Plus, if your case lacks decent airflow, there's your answer. These aren't critical temperatures at all; seeing 70°C under load isn't even bad—it can easily climb past 70°C without much concern.
If your GPU stays under 50°C while gaming, it's basically ice cold (though that particular game probably doesn't push it that hard).
I've got five fans in my rig (it's one of those MSI Dragon gaming cases)—airflow is absolutely perfect, every single component practically has its own dedicated cooling, which is exactly why I'm so worried! The main issue here—the most important thing—is that the screen goes black, the mouse and keyboard just freeze up completely, and I'm forced to do a hard restart... and then everything works perfectly fine again!
Yeah, I tried messing around with the Speed fan settings too, but honestly? It’s making absolutely zero difference in the RPMs... just spinning the same old way. And now—get this—I just noticed my motherboard temps have climbed up to 40 degrees, and the SSD is sitting at 42... the only thing actually staying chill is the processor (my FX 6300), which is hovering at a cool 27 degrees. This is ridiculous because the motherboard and the CPU are only five days old!
Hey everyone... I’m starting this thread because I am dealing with a massive headache right now! So, I’ve been running a GTX 1050 Ti 4 GB, and honestly, everything was perfectly fine until about a month ago. Back then, when I was playing stuff like Crysis 3, the temps would hit maybe 45 or 50 degrees max—totally normal—and once I stopped gaming, they’d settle right back down to around 28 or 32. But now? Now things have gone completely sideways. Just turning the PC on puts the GPU at 29, but within five minutes—doing absolutely nothing at all, mind you—it climbs to 36. And don't even get me started on gaming... I tried playing Luxor Quest—which is a super light, low-demand game, by the way—and the temperature shot up to 50 degrees, and then it took a full ten minutes just to drop back down to 45, where it stayed stuck! No matter what I try, the heat spikes instantly, and it takes forever to cool down, and even then, it barely moves a few degrees... It's infuriating! The card is only 8 months old and features those dual WINDFORCE fans, but I opened up my case today and noticed something terrible—the fans are spinning incredibly slowly, and if you even barely touch them with your finger, they just stop dead. What am I supposed to do here? Does anyone have any actual advice?!🙄
John Turner34 said:Check the BIOS settings to see what that 12V rail voltage is actually sitting at. Or just grab a multimeter and test the yellow and black wires somewhere along the power supply line... It shouldn't be dropping below 11.4 volts while the PC is under a heavy load. Now, when you're just sitting in the BIOS, there isn't much of a load—so if the BIOS shows something like 11.6 volts, I'd say your PSU is starting to give up the ghost. Don't just guess and assume it's the power supply; you have to actually measure it to know for sure.
I went ahead and did that in the meantime, and turns out the 12V rail wasn't even close to 12—it was sitting at a measly 9.5! I immediately jumped to buying a new power supply—a 500W Corsair— $167 which is an 80+ Bronze unit, just for kicks. I swapped out the old one, fired up the rig, and—beep!—just a single short beep like it's supposed to be. Problem solved! Thanks everyone for the help, the answers, and all the effort... even if the extra expense wasn't exactly something I wanted to deal with right now, when it's necessary, you just gotta do it! Now everything 👏👏: 👍 is running perfectly! p.s.: I used a digital meter to check it, and that's what it showed me. Whether the reading was 100% precise or not doesn't really matter at this point—the computer is working fine now!
Roger Gray8 said:Look, just open the manual for your motherboard—and if you don't have it lying around, find it online—and figure out what that "beep" actually signifies... I mean, is it a single "beep," a "beep-beep," or a long, drawn-out "beeeeeeeep"? I honestly don't understand why everyone is overanalyzing this—it should be clearly stated in the manual exactly what each specific beep code means. Just check that first, and then you'll have a path forward instead of just blindly poking around at nothing. (Or wait, am I misinterpreting you? Are you saying the beep is missing entirely???????) — To follow up on that point above... see if there's anything mentioned about whether a beep is required during startup, or what it means when a beep *does* occur at boot. Study that first. They can mess around in the BIOS all they want, but I know for a fact a computer doesn't necessarily have to beep when it turns on---
The issue isn't the startup sound; it's that whenever an error occurs during an operation, it's supposed to trigger a short beep immediately. It’s driving me absolutely crazy because it used to make that sound, and now it just doesn't...
Look, I already did that a few days ago... ran the tests and didn't find a single error in the memory. And just to be absolutely certain—because why not?—I even swapped in a brand new 4GB stick of A-Data 1600 DDR3, but the exact same thing happens... nothing changed. The only thing left on my list is testing the power supply, but I don't have a spare unit lying around to swap in!
Peter Morgan3 said:Good grief, what are you doing—keeping that thing in a refrigerator? 👍 Look, seriously though—did this whole mess start right after you swapped out the motherboard and the GPU? I’m thinking maybe those older components just aren't playing nice with the new gear... 🤔
Well, the only things actually "old" here are the 1 TB hard drive—which is about two years old—along with the CPU and the power supply. Everything else is basically brand new, just a week old! And as for those temperatures... they're fine because I've got solid cooling on both the processor and the graphics card. Actually, things were even worse before, which is exactly why I replaced the motherboard—plus, my old card was just an NVIDIA GeForce GTX 460 OC with dual fans.
The temperatures are just brilliant: CPU at 32, GPU at 28, motherboard at 27, HDD at 32, SSD at 23... and yet the whole thing freezes up on me regardless of what I'm actually doing—it didn't freeze a single time yesterday, and it hasn't frozen once today—but tomorrow? Who knows!
It’s connected—just like in that other photo you posted—and it technically works... but it fails right when it actually matters—you know, during the boot sequence!
Well, since I couldn't find a single thread addressing this specific headache, I suppose I've had to start one myself—honestly... when I boot the computer up, everything seems fine at first glance, but there's absolutely no beep—that initial POST beep, you know?—and because my motherboard and graphics card are both brand new, the silence is just... unsettling. It leaves me with this nagging feeling that something is fundamentally wrong. And frankly, it might be, because I’ve been dealing with this recurring nightmare where the screen just goes black—though the backlight stays on—and the entire system freezes solid, keyboard, mouse, everything... leaving me totally stranded. I have to force a shutdown every single time, only for it to work perfectly fine once I restart. This has happened three times in just one week! Does anyone actually know if this is a real issue? Is there some setting in the BIOS to enable the beep, or am I looking at a hardware failure? Someone please, I need an answer! My specs are: Motherboard: ASROCK B75 M-GL - 2.0, GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 750 Ti, RAM: 4GB Kingston DDR3 1300, CPU: Intel Core i3-2100 dual core, 2.9 GHz, PSU: Corsair 580W, HDD: 1TB, SSD: 60GB
Joshua Garcia3 said:Both of them should still be under warranty—just file a claim already.
I picked up a brand new one, and honestly, it was working flawlessly... until it absolutely fried eight DVDs in a row! Now, this second one? It spends half an hour just burning through a single disc—it’s maddening! I simply cannot wrap my head around what on earth is going wrong here...
Justin Green7 said:Have you thought about switching up the media you're burning to? I've got a Samsung burner and honestly—it’s been rock solid—worked with basically 99% of everything I've thrown at it.
I almost exclusively use VERBATIM, though I did give TDK and TRAXDATA a shot—but nope, it's the exact same headache with every single one of them...
Look, what I’m dealing with right now is just plain ridiculous—I have two Samsung burners, one is about 8 months old and the other is 6. A few days ago, they both just... started acting up. Specifically, neither one will burn a DVD correctly! When the process finishes, the computer tells me the disc was burned successfully, but then the moment I pop it into a player or try it on another PC—it might play for a minute, but then it just freezes up and dies... and if you look at the surface of the DVD, the burn isn't even! At first, I was convinced my computer had some nasty virus, but I’ve ruled that out—ran scans with Avast and Malwarebytes, even went as far as nuking the whole system and doing a fresh install of Windows 7, which fixed everything else... except for these burners failing to write properly. Interestingly, when I tried burning a CD, it worked perfectly without any errors! I really need some advice here... I go through a lot of media—about 15 DVDs a week—so since I feel like I've exhausted every troubleshooting step, I need to know if I should just bite the bullet and head down to Best Buy for two brand-new burners or if there's something else going on!?!
Just perform a clean install of Windows 7 and you’ll be over these headaches—honestly, if the issues persist after that, then you're looking at a hardware failure... that was my exact situation, and once I swapped out the faulty components, everything finally stabilized!!
Larry Ortiz5 said:Are you talking about the Bootkit when you mention the second key? If so, just boot into Safe Mode and uninstall it from there—basically run the loader itself and hit the uninstall button. By the way, you can always just do a clean install of Windows using a USB drive—just whip up a bootable one using Rufus.
Yes, when I said "key," I meant a Bootkit—but there's a massive catch here... those characters pop up immediately upon startup, which means I can't even get into Safe Mode! It keeps demanding some command, but I haven't the slightest clue which one it's looking for!
Alright, here’s the situation—I was tinkering with my laptop—a Dell Inspiron—trying to swap out the OS because the thing was running like molasses and kept throwing this "dll 47 is missing" error every single time I booted it up... so I did some troubleshooting, cleaned up all the errors, but I couldn't get a fresh install going because the DVD drive is completely shot and won't read any discs... plus, it kept claiming my Windows 7 wasn't genuine, so I just slapped in a different product key instead! Everything seemed fine after the reboot, but now? Now the damn thing won't even boot up at all—it just sits there with this screen full of weird characters on a black background, demanding commands! Please, if anyone actually knows what's going on here, I desperately need some help!
Thanks, swiftfalcon89—I think I’ll take your advice, honestly... it’s really the only logical way forward right now, given everything else—a new card is going to run me about $130, and I'll have to scrape together some extra cash for a new power supply too!🙂
Hey everyone—I just stumbled upon a "Corsair Vengeance 250G" 680W unit for $133... it says "lightly used," and honestly, I’m thinking it might actually be a solid fit for my current component setup!