Hey everyone! I'm on the hunt for a new monitor for $667. Is there anything out there better than this one? It’s got an IPS VA panel, 240Hz, and NVIDIA G-Sync...
I actually stumbled upon a similar model with QHD resolution, but it lacks NVIDIA G-Sync. What do you all think—can I find a better deal for this kind of money?
I'll stick to this thread rather than starting a new one! A buddy of mine is breathing some life back into an old PC. He’s running an i5 2320 with 8GB of RAM (4x2GB) on an unknown motherboard. I'm wondering, would it be worth dropping my RX 570 8GB into this rig? He's planning to pick up a new 600W power supply. His goal is just playing PUBG Lite and some older titles. Do you think the bottleneck will be too much of a headache?
Timothy Kim60 said:Try to hunt down a used GTX 1060 6GB for that price. Then just overclock your CPU.
Could an RX 570 4GB work? A new one costs about $400 here in the States. I can't find a GTX 1060 anywhere. Is there any other way to get similar results without overclocking my CPU? I'm too nervous to mess with those settings.
Hey everyone! Is the Logitech G432 actually worth picking up? I already dropped $107 on them, but they haven't arrived yet since I'm waiting on a buddy to bring them back from Chicago lol. Just wondering—could I have found something better for that price point?
Hey there! Any idea what I could get for this setup: FX 8300 and LC-CC 95 Gigabyte 970A-DS3P Sapphire R9 280 triple-x 3gb HyperX 8gb 1600mhz ram 1TB wd blue Fortron hyper 500w Zalman Z3 Zalman Z3+
I picked this up about 4 years ago, and honestly, it still works perfectly without any issues at all!
Hey everyone! I'm looking for some urgent advice on picking up a new graphics card for about $333 (plus $67 if they're basically the same thing). My current setup includes an FX 8300, a 970a-ds3p motherboard, 8GB of RAM, and a Zalman Z3 Plus cooler. This rig is already about 3 or 4 years old—you guys actually helped me put this together on the forum! I just want to upgrade my GPU, provided the processor won't bottleneck it too badly and I'll actually see a boost in my FPS. I don't care if it's used or brand new, as long as it stays within my budget.
Hi there! I am on the hunt for a real "best buy" monitor with a budget of roughly $333(around $33). I definitely need an IPS panel and at least a 24-inch screen. It’s going to be strictly for gaming. Right now, I'm making do with my old Dell S2421H. Thanks!
Hey everyone, I'm just dropping this here to avoid starting a whole new thread... I'm looking to pick up a monitor for $400 specifically for playing PUBG and CS:GO. I'd love a 24-inch model, though anything larger would be even better if possible. Hoping to get some solid advice from 🙂 Thanks in advance!
Timothy Kim60 said:That resolution is about 20-25% more demanding than 1080p. If you don't mind the FPS drop—or if you just turn down some settings to keep things smooth—then go for it!
I’m really hoping the FPS doesn't tank too hard! I recently tried gaming on a massive 29-inch monitor, and man, it was a total game-changer! *_*
wiredotter14 said:The resolution jump isn't massive, so it really boils down to what you play and how your current rig handles it. It’s still a decent card! You could likely still push some settings to high, but it all depends on the specific titles.
I'm definitely not a hardcore gamer. I mostly just stick to things like CS:GO, GTA V, PUBG, or the new Call of Duty: WWII—nothing too crazy!
Hey everyone! It’s been quite a while since I last checked in, but I wanted to say how thrilled I am with the setup you all helped me put together two years ago. My current rig is an AMD Radeon R9 280, 8GB of RAM, and an FX 8300. That aside, I have a quick question: will my current graphics card struggle with a new 29-inch monitor? I'm worried about potential bottlenecks. Up until now, I've been running everything on "Very High" settings on my 21-inch screen without a single stutter in any game. By the way, I'm eyeing that monitor I saw on Instagram—the LG 29UM68 gaming monitor... 29'', 2560x1080 IPS, AMD FreeSync, 21:9 I really hope someone can help me out if my question makes sense. Thanks in advance!
darkowl72 said:I won't weigh in on the headset choice because you probably can't find anything significantly better for that kind of money anyway. Medusa has been around long enough that if there were major flaws, people would have noticed by now.
But I definitely want to talk about the sound card.😬 My son actually bought some high-end Razer headphones a while back that came with a USB sound card. However, they could have easily plugged directly into the motherboard's audio jack—I think the board was even identical to yours! The difference in quality was night and day. It just goes to show that integrated audio processors are actually pretty essential, at least on higher-end boards.
My point is this: those headphones will sound perfectly fine on your integrated audio if you're on a budget, but they really won't hit their full potential until you invest in a dedicated sound card.
What’s the deal with the Medusa XE? It's cheaper, but it doesn't offer 5.1 surround sound. Is it actually worth paying the extra cash for the 5.1 Medusa version?
I get that, but I don't think Speedlink can even be compared to Razer. As long as they get the job done, you're good—you can always upgrade to a better sound card later! ;-)
Looking for some gaming headset recommendations under $83 that pack a serious bass punch. I’m currently eyeing the Medusa NX 5.1, but I'm wondering if I'll need a dedicated sound card or if my built-in motherboard audio (like an ASUS Prime series) will cut it. Is there anything out there that offers better bang for my buck?
Timothy Kim60 said:That looks totally normal for that motherboard (the third part in the picture).
What voltage are you running? Did you hunt for the absolute minimum, or just pick a random number and stop there?
To be honest, I didn't even grasp the voltage settings. If I remember right, the voltage is the CPU Vcore, right? You told me to set it to 1.35v, but the max is +0.600v, so maybe I actually set it to +0.100? It's all good now! I restarted it a few times and it's booting up perfectly fine.
Timothy Kim60 said:It's all right there in that stress test link I sent you—just check post 20 in that thread!
So, I managed to hit 4GHz, but now my PC boots incredibly slowly even though temperatures look great. I followed your instructions to the letter! Even after reverting everything back to the old BIOS settings, the slow boot persists. Plus, when I hit the power button, it starts up, shuts down after just 2 seconds, and then finally kicks back on? Help!
Timothy Kim60 said:If you tweak the voltages, you actually get much better results! It runs cooler and pulls less power than the factory settings. Just watch out—running Turbo can push it well past 1.4v!
When it comes to overclocking gains—you’ll find them in some places and nowhere in others! It really just depends on what you're running.
You'll end up taking more damage from that turbo than you'll ever actually deal!
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answer...rformance.html I'm just sharing this link! It’s a really helpful guide on how to handle stem work properly. Hope it helps someone out there!
So, I’m disabling Turbo, APC, C1E, and everything else. I'll set the CPU ratio to 20x, boot up the machine, and fire up Prime95... but then what?
