Eh... You think you know what might be going on here? So, I grabbed some new parts, and the guys over at Micro Center built and tested the whole rig for me, so all I was supposed to do at home was pop in the drive and that Nvidia GTX 750 Ti mentioned above. But here’s the kicker: I’m getting absolutely nothing on the monitor. As far as I can tell, everything inside the case is spinning up and running just fine. Am I looking at a faulty GPU? It’s brand new, though... mind you, it did spend two months just sitting in its box after I bought it.
Hey everyone. So, I’ve got this presentation coming up, and my professor is being super specific about everything needing to be in >. Can anyone actually explain what that means in plain English? I already know which images I need to include for the project.
During our seminar briefing, the TA basically told us to just toss the images into Adobe Illustrator, swap out the English text for American English, and call it a day. But then, right after that, the professor sends over the official materials with those strict instructions about the image formats, and now I'm stuck. Is the TA's advice actually legit, or am I going to need some specialized software to get this done properly?
Look, I’m not trying to make this more complicated than it needs to be. I'll just head over to cnn.com, pay them to put my computer together for me, and call it a day.
The price for this build over at Micro Center is $882 plus $40 for the assembly fee since I’m not grabbing every single part from them. That brings the total to $922.
It’s basically the same price as your setup, so what’s actually the difference here? A slightly better power supply and memory running at 1866MHz instead of 1600MHz?
Look, I don't know much about this stuff, so that might be an issue. Honestly, I expected the price tag to be way higher, but considering what I’m looking at gaining from overclocking, this is actually a steal.
So, should I just track down one of my buddies to handle it, or maybe see if CNN would take care of it? Also, is this cooler actually going to hold up if I decide to push the processor?
So, I'm pulling the trigger on this order tomorrow. 😁
Just had one more thing cross my mind. I was scrolling through the thread below and saw people talking about how you can overclock the AMD FX-8300 to squeeze out some extra clock speed. Since I’ve never messed with overclocking before, is there actually a risk involved if I decide to push it? I'm assuming I'd need a beefier cooler to handle the heat, right? If that's the case, can someone drop a link to an example so I can see how much of a price jump we're talking about compared to what I have now?
I think that second build from amazon.com that crimsonstag84 posted is definitely the way to go for me. The only thing is, I’d probably swap out the memory for the stuff in that first configuration—that one’s actually better, right? So, here’s what my final setup would look like:
Kingston 8GB 1866MHz DDR3 HyperX Fury Black Series RAM AMD FX-8300 AMD FX-8300 GIGABYTE Motherboard Desktop EVGA 450W Power Supply Cooler Master Gammaxx 200 Intel 1150 Socket H81 case (no PSU)
+ my own graphics card and hard drive
MSI R7 250 GDDR5 1GB/128bit Western Digital 320GB HDD
Can someone just give me a quick thumbs up that this is solid before I pull the trigger and order everything? 🙂
I’ve got the case, but honestly, I’m a bit clueless—can I actually fit an ATX motherboard in here? (Call me stupid, but I genuinely don't know).
So, a few days ago, my PC just completely died on me. I left it running overnight, and when I woke up, it was totally unresponsive. Nothing happens when I hit the power button, so I figured it was time to just grab some new parts. While I was digging around online trying to troubleshoot what went wrong, I stumbled upon some info suggesting the power button itself might be busted, so maybe moving everything to a new case would fix it.
That’s why I’m stuck wondering if I can make this current case work or if I really need to go out and buy a new one.
So, I'm looking at putting together a rig for about $833. I don't need a monitor, a GPU, or an HDD.
GPU -
HDD - Seagate BarraCuda 320GB 8MB cache
The plan is to use this thing for some gaming and specific software, so obviously, a better CPU and more RAM would be ideal. Lay some recommendations on me and we'll see what happens🙂
Also, it would be killer if someone could actually assemble it for me (either free or just cheap as possible). I'm around the Indianapolis area—maybe Links? I wouldn't mind picking it up in person too.
Hey, why not? It’s not like it costs me anything to give it a shot.
I’m probably just going to drop it off at a shop, maybe Best Buy or something similar, to get it looked at. Honestly, I don't have the patience or the technical know-how to mess around with this myself. 😁
I'm gonna try asking around just to test out this GPU...
Yeah, everything runs fine when I'm using integrated graphics. This new card is also budget-friendly—not sure if that's a smart move or if I'm risking burning something out, maybe I should just pull it out now? Here's the thing: the first time I plug my monitor into the integrated graphics, I get hit with a Blue Screen of Death. Specifically, Error 0x00000116. I found a workaround online: boot into Safe Mode, wipe the integrated display drivers, and then I can get back into Windows normally and everything works fine.
But once the card is seated in the PCI-E slot, you can actually hear it struggling. The fan spins up faster and faster, then suddenly slows down, and it just keeps looping like that—like it doesn't have the juice to finish its startup cycle. Does that even make sense? I don't know how else to describe it. It only happens during the boot sequence while the system is loading. Once I'm actually inside Windows, the card seems to act totally normal. No weird noises, fans are spinning fine.
I tried pulling the CMOS battery for about 30 minutes, nothing. Tried resetting the BIOS settings to default, still nothing. The BIOS doesn't even recognize the PCI-E slot. I even ran GPU-Z, and it won't see the PCI-E slot there either, just shows PCI.
Look, I'm not an expert, so I can't say for sure what's broken, but from what I've been reading online, everyone who dealt with this exact same mess was told their PCI-E slot was dead.
I'm at a total loss here. 😁 We thought it was the GPU, so I went out and bought a brand new one, and guess what? Still nothing. Now it could be the power supply, or it could be the PCI-E slot—basically the motherboard itself. Honestly, I might actually set myself on fire if I have to drop more cash on a new motherboard haha.
Timothy Kim60 said:Look, if you want to reset the BIOS, let's just get on with it. Honestly? Just pop the battery out of the motherboard, let it sit there for a bit, and then toss it back in. It’s really that simple.
So, you’ve gone and messed up your BIOS settings? Again? Honestly, I don't know how you people manage to trip over your own feet most days, let alone brick your motherboard's configuration. But hey, we've all been there—usually right after we think we're being "tech geniuses" by overclocking something we shouldn't touch. If you've managed to scramble your settings to the point where the PC won't even POST, you've got two main ways to fix this mess. It’s basically like rebooting your life after a massive mistake, just with more static electricity and less dignity. First off, the "easy" way—if your BIOS actually lets you get into the menu before everything goes south. You just navigate to the "Load Setup Defaults" option. It’s the digital equivalent of hitting the panic button and asking for mercy. It wipes out whatever weird tweaks you made and puts everything back to factory settings. Simple, right? Even a toddler could do it, though I wouldn't bet on it given some of the stuff I see on these forums. But what if you can't even get into the BIOS because you set a weird voltage or a memory frequency that your hardware absolutely hates? Then you have to go old school. This is the "clear CMOS" method. You’ll need to pop the side panel off your case—try not to lose any screws, please—and look for that little silver coin-shaped battery on the motherboard. That’s your CMOS battery. If you pull that thing out and wait a minute or two, the memory holding those settings just... evaporates. It’s like a bad memory after a heavy night at a bar in Chicago. Once you pop it back in, your BIOS will be back to its default, "I don't know who I am" state. Alternatively, if you're feeling particularly brave (or just want to risk shorting something), look for the "Clear CMOS" jumper pins on your motherboard. Most modern boards have them. You just bridge those two pins with a screwdriver for a few seconds, and boom—reset. Just a heads up: once you do this, you’ll have to redo everything else you actually *wanted* changed. So, if you spent three hours perfecting your fan curves, prepare to spend another three hours doing it again. Is it worth it? Usually. Because the alternative is staring at a black screen and questioning every life choice that led you to this moment.
So, which specific card are we talking about here? Are you actually sure everything is plugged in right? I mean, seriously, did you double-check that power connector? It’s a rookie mistake, but it happens. Also, what exactly are we looking at on the screen? Is it just a total black screen, or are you seeing weird artifacts all over the place? Because those are two very different problems. You could easily have a dud on your hands—even if it’s brand new out of the box. Don't let the "new" label fool you; you can still get a lemon and just send it back for an RMA. One more thing: have you tried plugging your monitor into a different PC yet? Just to rule out the obvious?
Yeah, I figured out what's going on. I did some digging online and that’s basically what everyone suggests: just reset the BIOS to its factory defaults. If that doesn't do the trick, then you're looking at a dead motherboard. Simple as that.
None of them are working. Not the old one I had before lightning fried my setup, and not this new one I picked up based on your recommendation (the R7 250). It’s just a black screen. Every single time. Same exact situation with both cards. The PC boots up fine, the fan on the GPU spins, and I can hear the system loading, but absolutely nothing shows up on the monitor. I haven't tried the monitor anywhere else because as soon as I plug into the integrated graphics, everything works perfectly. Is there something else going on here that I'm missing?
analogtiger19 said:Look, just give me the full model name of that motherboard. I need the specifics. Because let’s be real here—if clearing the CMOS doesn't fix this mess, you're looking at a total loss. You'll basically be heading straight to Best Buy to pick up a replacement board.