Posts by driftingbadger17

swiftdriver30 said:I honestly have no clue what time it is right now, maybe 2:00? I'm not really sure. :S

And that’s exactly why the rating is what it is.
Every single 2.5-inch drive is going to show pretty much the same transfer speeds.
Plus, you're looking at an index of 5.9.

swiftdriver30 said:Hey everyone, I have a quick question. So, a few days ago I decided to upgrade my rig with a beefier graphics card. Naturally, my Windows Experience Index score for the GPU shot up, which was great. However, I also swapped in a new 1 TB HDD Samsung, but the drive score itself hasn't budged. My total system score is sitting at a 5.9 because of the hard drive, and I’m just not seeing the jump I expected. I was running a 320 GB Hitachi before and it gave me a 5.9 too, but this new one is supposed to be faster and it's much larger, so I'm a bit lost. Does anyone have any ideas? Maybe there's some setting I need to tweak regarding the drive or something... heh. Thanks.

It's pretty obvious that the new drive is performing exactly like the old one did.
Is the motherboard actually keeping up? I wouldn't know. Is it even a SATA 3 drive?
My SATA 2 drive pulls a 5.9 index myself.

Jason Morales7 said:Wait, what? 😕

Honestly, I don't think such a thing exists. If someone has admin privileges, they have full access and can see every single running process.
Even if they somehow managed to miss a specific process, it wouldn't matter; you'd still see the performance hit in Task Manager. A recording session heavy enough to cause issues would absolutely hammer the disk and CPU, and even a totally oblivious admin would notice that kind of slowdown.

Jason Morales7 said:Is there any way to run a specific program on Windows 7—specifically a screen recorder—without the person connected via TeamViewer noticing that the app is active? Basically, I'm looking for a way to hide the software while it carries out its task.😁

So, someone is remoting into your computer via TeamViewer and you're trying to record them?

I'm sorry, but I don't quite follow what you're asking here, nor am I entirely sure why you'd even need to do that.

Matthew Murphy7 said:Hey everyone,

I’m not entirely sure if this question fits the vibe of this thread, so if you know better, please feel free to point me toward the right discussion.

I’m trying to figure out if it’s actually possible to recover files from an external hard drive. I can't say for certain if they were deleted per se, but I just can't access the drive anymore. While I was installing Windows 7, I had the external drive plugged in and, in a moment of pure clumsiness, I accidentally wiped the partition on the wrong disk. Now, whenever I try to open it, the system tells me the drive needs to be formatted before it can be used. I’m terrified of hitting "format" because I don't want to make a bad situation worse. It’s a 500 GB external drive and it was pretty much full. Is there any way to roll back the damage or at least salvage some of the data? If so, which software should I look into and how do I go about it?
I checked out some prices at a local data recovery specialist, but they're quoting me around $233, which feels a bit steep for my current budget. So, if anyone knows how to tackle this at home like a DIY amateur, I'd love to hear it. Sorry for the off-topic post.

Thanks in advance.
Best.

Yeah. You can get most of your data back.
But honestly, let someone who actually knows what they're doing handle it if you can afford it.

Whatever you do, stop messing around with that drive immediately.

There are plenty of recovery tools out there—even on the Hiren's bootable CD, which you can find online for free. : )

swiftdriver30 said:Which version of Windows 7 is best for gaming, surfing the web, and listening to music? Nothing fancy, just those things. I have 4GB of RAM, an Intel quad 2 Core Q8400, an Nvidia GTX 260, and a 1.5 TB drive. Maybe even Windows 8? ...

Since you're working with 4 GB of RAM, you’ll actually want to go with a 64-bit version of Windows if you want to see any benefit from that extra memory. :)
The 32-bit versions will only ever recognize about 3 GB.

When it comes to gaming, the real trick is just turning off everything you don't need. If there are services running in the background that aren't doing anything useful, shut them down so they stop eating up your resources.

I think some of those "game booster" apps are designed specifically to handle that for you.

Edward Allen36 said:Does anyone actually know at what percentage CPU usage becomes a real problem?
And is there some kind of software out there to help balance the load?

I’m not quite following—why would high CPU usage be considered "critical"? You've got a three-year warranty... so, basically, you're covered. I haven't heard of anyone actually frying their CPU just because they kept it pinned at 100%.
If things get too hot, the motherboard will just shut everything down to protect itself.

Benjamin King2 said:I'm not sure how any of that relates to what Jesse Green13 actually asked.

Well, you were the one asking him exactly what he's looking to back up in the first place. :)
My guess is he wants everything, and if that's the case, the approach I suggested earlier remains your best bet...

Benjamin King2 said:Back up what, exactly?

If you want to do it right, you need a real solution like Acronis or Norton Ghost. We're talking about a full disk image onto a separate drive... nothing less.

swiftdriver30 said:I've got this BenQ G2225HD 1920 monitor, and at its resolution, the graphics look great, but whenever I try lowering it, everything just looks terrible...

Modern monitors are designed with a specific native resolution in mind. They really need to run at that exact setting, otherwise, the image quality takes a massive hit. It’s not a defect or a hardware failure; it’s just how the tech works.

So, if your main goal is gaming and you want to squeeze out as many frames per second as possible without needing a high-end rig, you might actually be better off with a lower-resolution monitor.

The 1920x1080 setup is standard Full HD, which is really meant for beefier graphics cards or for 3D applications—basically, stuff for professional work.