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Windows XP or Windows 7? in Software · Oct 8, 2012

jadesurfer5 said:Thanks for the detailed breakdown.
I think I'll listen to you and install Windows 7 32-bit.
I won't do it immediately, though; I clearly need to upgrade my RAM first. My computer is about 6 years old... and things are what they are. I'm not a demanding user; I just need software like MATLAB and AutoCAD to handle my college coursework.
The memory I should be looking for is DDR400 PC3200?

It doesn't matter how old the machine is; it depends on the technology available at the time (in the sense that you might have bought something back then that remains decent today, even if it was overpriced at the time). 2 GB of RAM should be sufficient for now. Programs that ran on Windows XP should work on Windows 7 since they worked on compatibility. As for the RAM, I suggested going to a repair shop rather than guessing, given those issues with older modules.
Regarding what I mentioned about 32-bit versus 64-bit Windows: the 32-bit version uses almost as much RAM as Windows XP—around 500-600 MB—whereas the 64-bit version pulls closer to 1100 MB.

Windows XP or Windows 7? in Software · Oct 8, 2012

jadesurfer5 said:Thanks, junior. I guess I'll go with Windows 7.
Since I'm a total amateur, I can see from the photo that I need to look for DDR memory. Is there anything else I should be looking for when buying? How much would an extra 2 GB cost me?

Does anyone else have advice regarding the OS? Are we all in agreement on Windows 7?

Looking at the picture, you definitely need DDR memory. It looks like it's DDR400, which is quite dated. Based on what I see, that motherboard maxes out at 4 GB.
http://reviews.cnet.com/motherboards...-32071715.html

Because this is older DDR, you really ought to look for the same manufacturer. There's a chance you might only be able to add 1 GB since you currently have two 1 GB sticks. My suggestion is that you don't try to do this blindly; maybe head to a local computer shop or a repair service and have them test it for you. You don't want to waste money or deal with the headache of incompatible memory. With modern RAM, you can mix brands or sizes and it usually works fine, but if I recall correctly, mixing modules on these older systems was often a major issue.

As for the OS, you can install Windows 7 without any issues, but I wouldn't recommend the 64-bit version. Even if you add that extra 2 GB, a 32-bit Windows 7 will still only recognize about 3.5 GB of RAM. You might just want to stick with your current 2 GB for now and upgrade later.

Regarding the 64-bit vs. 32-bit debate, the 32-bit system will likely run better and faster for you. Unless you have a significantly more powerful processor and more than 4 GB of RAM, it isn't worth the jump to 64-bit just for the extra memory support. In my experience, 64-bit doesn't actually feel faster—in fact, I’ve found 32-bit to be slightly snappier, a sentiment many people seem to share. Besides, most programs are still 32-bit anyway.

And stay far away from Windows 8. Many people consider it a failure, much like Vista was. It's probably best to wait at least a year or monitor reviews and user experiences over the next few months before deciding if you want to switch to Windows 8.

Your machine might run Windows 7 a bit better than Windows XP thanks to the dual-core processor, but overall, the hardware is a bit weak for a 64-bit system or the upcoming Windows 8.
As for which version of Windows 7, any of them—Home, Enterprise, Professional, or Ultimate—should work fine depending on your preference. Just make sure it's the 32-bit version.

GPU Buying Guide - (Read first post) in Desktops · Sep 29, 2012

frozenridge2 said:Alright everyone,

I recently picked up some free parts and put together a rig that lacks a dedicated GPU (it just uses integrated graphics), so I’m looking to pick something up to play a few games.
Apacer 2x1 GB 800 MHz RAM
Gigabyte GA M61SME-S2 Motherboard
Intel Pentium Dual-Core 2.1GHz
Western Digital 160 GB Hard Drive
400W MS Power Supply (not great, but you don't look a gift horse in the mouth)

I'm wondering what might work if I want to play things like Age of Empires II, Baldur's Gate 3, or older strategy games from 4 or 5 years ago. The issue is my power supply doesn't have an extra 6-pin or 8-pin connector, so I'm limited to cards that don't require external power. I have a 12-pin to 2x6-pin adapter I got from a card in another PC, but I'm not sure if that's a safe solution, especially since this power supply is junk.🙂
Please throw out some suggestions for new ones, though I'm mostly interested in used models from 2, 3, or 4 years ago within the $200 range.$133 I was looking at the HD 3850 and 3870, but I suspect they require extra power...
Thanks

I don't know what kind of power supply that is—probably some no-name brand—so you really need to hunt for a low-power card. Looking at the prices, maybe aim for a GeForce GT 1030 for about $83, or a slightly better Radeon R7 250 for around $133.
Honestly, it's hard to find much for that kind of money, and I'm not sure where you'd even find a 3850 or 3870 for those prices.

GPU Buying Guide - (Read first post) in Desktops · Sep 29, 2012

Jose Martin96 said:Hi, I have a question regarding graphics cards. I'm trying to put together a budget system for gaming, specifically for titles like Madden NFL 12, iRacing, and Call of Duty 4: Modern Warfare. My absolute minimum requirement is a resolution of 1024x768, though anything higher would be a bonus.

CPU: Intel Pentium Gold 2.4GHz dual core.. $100 I suppose I should get started.
Motherboard: I haven't settled on a specific model yet. As long as it's an LGA 1150 socket with at least 1333MHz DDR3, I suppose I don't have any other particular requirements.$113 I suppose there isn't much more to be said on this matter.
Between the Radeon R7 250 and the GeForce GT 1030—assuming both have 128-bit memory buses and DDR3—it’s a toss-up, I suppose. One might be slightly better depending on the specific driver support, though I doubt there's much of a difference in actual performance. Maybe just pick whichever one is cheaper at the time.$143 I suppose there isn't much left to say regarding this matter.
RAM: 4GB DDR3 1333MHz. I realize that because of the processor, it’ll likely end up running at 1066MHz anyway, but the 1333MHz sticks seem to be cheaper right now.$47 I suppose there isn't much left to say here.
Hard drives: looking for the cheapest 7200rpm option, maybe a Western Digital 250GB... $140 I suppose there isn't much left to say about this.
Power supply: It’s an old 480W unit from a previous build.

I have a question regarding GPUs. I realize neither of these options is anything particularly special, but since they're both strictly budget picks and my current finances won't allow for anything higher, I need to know: which one would be better for gaming between these two?

You tend to ask these kinds of questions on desktop forums.
At that price point, you could probably find a better deal on an AMD Radeon R7 250 with DDR3.
I see you're looking for... $27 You'll likely end up with a much better gaming card for your money. This Radeon HD 5770 features 1GB of DDR5, an HDMI port, and a 256-bit bus. $172
2. Regarding the motherboard: It's an MSI H81M-P33. $148
3. Refurbished 500 GB Western Digital Caviar Hard Drive, 2.5", SATA II, 7200rpm, 16MB cache (Model: ST9500420AS) $140Maybe it's because of the larger cache size that would allow the 500 GB Western Digital Caviar SATA III HDD (3.5", IntelliPower, 64MB, WD5000AZRX) to operate a bit faster. I guess. $157
Here is how much I think you can shave off while still keeping things decent. Ideally, you’d want to set aside a bit more for the processor to get some actual performance out of it, but if the budget is tight right now, what I’ve laid out will suffice for the time being. You can always upgrade later. Otherwise, just stick to what I wrote above.
And what kind of dog is running a 480W power supply? I guess someone might actually try that. $33 Do you have a specific power supply, or are you using a brand you actually trust?

Elon Musk, or something like that... in Software · Sep 23, 2012

Zachary Wood49 said:Admin, if I've posted this in the wrong section, please move the thread...
Does anyone have a working link for Elon Musk's Home 3D? I've tried searching, but nothing seems useful; the downloads take hours only to fail upon launch. I'm just looking for something simple and free. Thanks a lot...

Give this a shot: www.sweethome3d.com/index.jsp
The software is free, straightforward, and pretty versatile. It’s open source, too.

Issues with my HP Envy Series printer in Computer Peripherals · Sep 17, 2012

It’s a massive headache when a printer fails just a day after the warranty expires. I suppose they design these things specifically to fail after a year.
The only real fix is to search online for a reset program; basically, you just type in a reset utility for your specific Epson model.
Service centers rely on these programs. They first clear the error codes stored in the printer's memory, which usually trigger because the device wasn't used enough and the ink dried up.
In your case, you’ve had one color sitting there for two years. Infrequent printing leads to these issues, especially when using third-party inks. Regardless of whether it's strictly necessary, it’s probably best to print something every five days—just a small image to keep the ink flowing through the print head. It doesn't have to be a full photo; even a tiny graphic will do.
Try finding that reset program to clear the hidden error causing this behavior. Once that's done, buy a full set of new inks. You can use third-party options, but in my experience, stick to Orink; I wouldn't trust any other off-brand. You should install the new ink before attempting the reset, though you can try it however you prefer. It's the same situation we discussed in that old thread: some cheap knock-off inks cause malfunctions or recognition errors, whereas Orink has proven reliable.
As for whether you can actually save this machine, maybe for about $100 you could just buy a decent new printer. But again, don't forget to actually use it more often.

Best waterproof cameras? in Computer Peripherals · Sep 17, 2012

Maybe look around to see if there’s an existing housing for that camera or something similar. You could probably improvise a custom case yourself—have a local glass shop cut the pane, seal it up to keep the moisture out, and you might be able to avoid any future headaches.

How to reduce video file size? in Software · Sep 14, 2012

I suppose you could have just resized it in Movie Maker right away. Besides, if you check the Bandicam settings, there should be an option to adjust the video resolution and such.

GPU Buying Guide - (Read first post) in Desktops · Sep 13, 2012

Robert Rodriguez2 said:He covered all the essential points.
From Best Buy, it's something like this: $167 🙂
http://www.bestbuy.com/example-graphics-card

I suppose what he said is fine, and that card is decent enough. However, I wanted to be certain before I installed a card like the one you used. He mentioned a budget of $400 for the $167, but he didn't specify the power supply. The recommendation for that specific card is a 400W unit, and I don't mean just any random power supply. If the PSU is subpar, there could be issues down the line, even if the power draw seems low. I guess I just wouldn't want to deal with 🤷 whatever happens to my PC.

GPU Buying Guide - (Read first post) in Desktops · Sep 13, 2012

Look, just give me the specifics: what’s the exact motherboard model, how much RAM are we talking about, and which specific dual-core Athlon is actually in there? Also, what kind of power supply is running the system—is it capped at 400$167W? I need to see if you even have enough overhead for modern games.

GPU Buying Guide - (Read first post) in Desktops · Aug 31, 2012

brightskipper40 said:He watched everything and did his research. 🙂 It’s incredibly quiet; while the stock setup hits 80°C under full load, this one stays at 50! 👋 hat: maybe I'll even try overclocking it by about 100 MHz if it seems feasible. 😁

Well, they are beasts, and the price tag is certainly something else. If you aren't planning to overclock the GPU itself, you could use MSI Afterburner to bump the memory up by maybe 100-200 MHz and the core by 100 MHz. If the temps stay stable, you might be able to push it a bit further.

GPU Buying Guide - (Read first post) in Desktops · Aug 31, 2012

brightskipper40 said:I was just looking at this one too, and it seems perfectly fine to me. The reviews aren't bad either, so I'll probably head over to Best Buy tomorrow and see how it performs in person.

http://www.bestbuy.com/product-example-link-1

Or maybe this one http://www.bestbuy.com/product-example-link-2
Though I suspect the first option might be the better choice. I suppose you should check some noise tests on YouTube just to be safe; ignore the commercials, but based on the specs, the first one should be significantly quieter.

GPU Buying Guide - (Read first post) in Desktops · Aug 30, 2012

brightskipper40 said:I was actually considering buying a new card just to sell this one, since the fan on it is getting way too loud. Now that I'm looking at the 7850, it doesn't seem much quieter. Maybe I should just look into an aftermarket fan or cooler for my current card, though I'm not sure if anything even exists for this specific model.🙏

This one interests me. It’s massive—larger than the GPU itself. It doesn't come with its own dedicated cooler, but you can add one if you want. That said, it won't fit your specific card. You'd need to find something designed for yours; take a look.
http://www.amazon.com/hladnjaci__470...ro-s1__1732531
And their official site: http://www.arctic.ac/en/p/detail?sArticle=24.%3F

GPU Buying Guide - (Read first post) in Desktops · Aug 30, 2012

brightskipper40 said:I see there isn't much of a difference in terms of performance between them. I think you might have misread my previous note—I was actually referring to my non-Ti model, just the standard GTX 560. 😁

I thought it was you, but I couldn't be entirely sure. Honestly, the one you're looking at might be a bit more powerful, though I suppose there aren't any massive differences between them. From what I can see, you listed your specs below, so if you're worried, I get it. Personally, I work on a much weaker machine, so I don't really give it much thought. As for your current setup, I probably wouldn't bother upgrading it for quite some time.

GPU Buying Guide - (Read first post) in Desktops · Aug 30, 2012

Personally, I wouldn't swap an NVIDIA card this budget-friendly for an AMD one. Based on my own experience, there's a clear edge when pairing Intel and NVIDIA over AMD and ATI—especially when it comes to graphics performance.
I suppose the actual difference you'd notice might not be massive, given how similar their raw power is.
Take a look at this http://www.hwcompare.com/12054/gefor...adeon-hd-7850/

Windows XP or Windows 7? in Software · Aug 25, 2012

analogtrucker7 said:The graphics card mention was just an example of how Windows 7 might speed things up, so I suppose I'm not sure if that applies to everyone. As for the specs, it’s a laptop with a 2.0 GHz dual core, 2GB of RAM, and an 80GB HDD—that last part is the main thing. I don't have all the specifics yet; I'm still waiting on him to get it to me. Hopefully, it arrives soon.

It would be much simpler if you just stated the specific laptop model and brand number.
For instance, something like a Dell Inspiron
That way, one could easily look it up online to see exactly what kind of machine we're dealing with.
"Dual core" is a rather vague term.

Windows XP or Windows 7? in Software · Aug 23, 2012

analogtrucker7 said:I'll be picking up a laptop soon, and I'm undecided on which operating system to go with between these two options. Some people seem to prefer Windows 7 because it feels faster. I noticed one instance where a PC had 512MB of graphics memory, yet on that exact same machine running Windows 7, the graphics showed closer to 880MB. That part seems certain, though there are probably plenty of drawbacks involved. I'd mostly be using it for gaming and browsing the web. Any thoughts?

A 512MB graphics card—assuming you mean megabytes—doesn't tell us much. You should probably specify what kind of laptop you're looking at; maybe then Windows 7 would run without any issues.
Don't get hung up on those graphics megabytes. That's just video memory. Other specs matter more, specifically how much RAM you have and what kind of processor is under the hood.

GPU Buying Guide - (Read first post) in Desktops · Aug 18, 2012

James Ortiz said:Thanks for the suggestion, Benjamin King2. A few others have pointed me toward that option too, so I’m leaning toward the HD 6670.

With that card, I assume a 400W power supply should be sufficient?

I’m running an HD 6670 with a 400W unit myself. I don't recall the exact model—I bought it about two years ago—but I kept the same PSU when I built my current rig and haven't had any issues. Everything runs fine. It was probably something around $67 if I remember correctly, so it isn't exactly top-tier hardware, but it gets the job done.

Something like Daemon Tools in Software · Dec 2, 2011

rowdystag16;36996011 said:You clearly don't know as much about computers as I do.
I have no idea who told you it wasn't possible or how you reached that conclusion.

I downloaded Windows 7 in ISO format from a torrent a long time ago, and I've reinstalled Windows on that machine at least four or five times by running it through DT while the computer was already up and running. 😲

It is certainly doable, of course, because Daemon tools will mimic a physical drive—essentially tricking the system into thinking there's an actual DVD in the burner—allowing you to mount it under Windows. However, I would suggest just making a bootable DVD using that program I linked for you. It doesn't even have to be that specific one; just copy the Windows ISO file to something and burn it using a bootable DVD utility. If your hard drive happens to die, you won't be able to rely on Daemon tools anymore.

Something like Daemon Tools in Software · Dec 1, 2011

It doesn't work quite like that. I suspect he isn't explaining himself fully before getting banned, or perhaps he simply doesn't know what he's talking about. He likely downloaded a Windows ISO from a torrent site or somewhere similar, and now he needs something like a Daemon tool to unpack it. To actually burn a bootable DVD once he uses DT, he'll need a specific utility. Alternatively, he could just unpack it with DT and run the installation directly from his hard drive.
http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/...usbdvd_dwnTool
That is a tool used to create bootable DVDs or USB drives, functioning similarly to DT.
There are several options available: ISO Buster, Magic Disc, DVDFab, Clone DVD, and I can't recall them all, but there are plenty more. You can search online; they are generally categorized as virtual drive software.