Posts by rustyfox7

Hey there,

I’m looking for some advice on picking up a color printer by $333. I’ve been doing a little digging online, and a few models caught my eye:
- OKI ES5431
- OKI C301dn
- Canon Color LaserJet

Most of my printing will be black and white, though I'll need color occasionally. If I'm mostly printing text, is it a safe bet to assume my average coverage per page will stay under 5%? Given that kind of workload, roughly how many pages could I squeeze out of these specific models—or any other recommendation you might have—before I'm stuck buying more toner? I’m leaning toward the OKIs because they seem pretty snappy (around 20-30 ppm), whereas the Canon seems a bit slower.

Thanks in advance.

neonfalcon16 said:Only 8 points in the second half, and they blew a lead they had totally in their grasp. Way to go, guys. 👍

If you want my take, I’d say bravo to the coach and whoever decided those two belonged on the national team roster. Honestly, watching Mark play right now is just a straight-up disaster.😂

Just wanted to give a quick shout-out to fosna and Flftron for the advice on power supplies. I ended up picking up a 400W unit, specifically the FSP400-60PFN 85+.

It looks like this is officially the most ghost-town thread on the PC hardware forum. 🙂 Come on, people, help a guy out here—I'm trying to pick a power supply that won't die on this specific build.

Benjamin King2 said:That’s really the only thing worth mentioning here. $100: The link you provided doesn't seem to be working on my end. It looks like a broken URL or maybe just a dead link from a local retailer. If you were trying to show me a specific deal on some hardware or a build list, could you try posting the link again? Or better yet, just paste the specs or the product names directly here. I'd be happy to take a look at what you're eyeing.

So, what you're telling me is that absolutely nothing cheaper in the link I sent is actually worth buying? Come on, man, give me a break. Just take a look at the link and tell me if it’s actually worth making the drive out to Indianapolis instead of just picking something up in Des Moines. If there’s anything in that list that isn't total junk, point it out—I'm hoping I actually have some decent options here.

Good evening, everyone. Since nobody seems to be around to help, I guess I’ll just pick one myself....
I need a power supply for this specific build:

-CPU: AMD Athlon 64 X2 4400
-Motherboard: MSI K9N6PGM2-V2
-GPU: PowerColor ATI Radeon HD 3850, 512 MB
-HDD: Samsung HD161HJ, 160 GB
-A toaster,

Checking these shops: provided the price stays under $100(though if someone finds something cheaper that actually handles this setup, even better). I won't complain if it's just some basic generic unit from $67. I'm not looking for a NASA-grade power supply here; I just need something that keeps this rig running while I'm gaming.

Benjamin King2 said:That power draw you mentioned covers the whole rig, not just the card. You’re likely running a Quad processor, which pulls more than what you've got... As for the power supply, the Nitro series from Chieftec is decent enough, but anything else is probably a gamble. Your setup should pull roughly 160W, so you shouldn't run into issues unless you're using some bottom-of-the-barrel junk. 🙂

Alright, here’s the PSU I'm using: http://psurepair.freeforums.org/down...=272&mode=view Do you think this thing can handle it if I swap out the Nvidia for that ATI card on this build?

Benjamin King2 said:Look, that GPU is leagues ahead of that Nvidia card, and it pulls about 70-80W, so you won't have any issues with your power supply.

A buddy of mine picked up a different one, so he’s letting me have the specific one I mentioned. I was browsing some reviews online and stumbled upon some sketchy numbers claiming it draws around 90W at idle and over 180W under full load. Honestly, it's got me a bit paranoid about things blowing up. When you said 70-80W, were you talking about idle or when it's actually working hard? It's not that I don't take your word for it, I'm just genuinely worried about frying something if my PSU can't handle the hit. One more thing—what’s your take on this unit if I decide to go out and buy a new power supply instead? http://www.amazon.com/power-supply...kl=052.712.083

Hey everyone. I just picked up a used PowerColor ATI Radeon 3850 DDR3 with 512 MB on it, and I'm thinking about tossing it into my current rig. Here’s what I'm working with:
-Athlon 64 X2 4400+
-350 W power supply, though I have no clue what brand it actually is.
-Current card: Nvidia 7300 gt 256 mb

The main question is, do you think this setup will actually run smoothly?

Nathan Reyes59 said:Come on, just tell us which monitor model you're running.

It's a 21.5" LED LCD Dell UltraSharp Quote

feraltrucker5 said:Nah, I don't think that's how it works.

D-sub 15 and VGA are essentially the same thing.

Oh, I see. Thanks for the enlightenment. 😉

My monitor’s got both a VGA port (the 15-pin one) and a DVI-D (that dual-link version with 24 pins and the little dash). The graphics card I'm looking at has a DVI port—though it doesn't specify which type—and a D-sub. Honestly, I can't even tell the difference between VGA and D-sub right now, so if anyone's feeling generous, maybe drop a picture of what those two actually look like.

EDIT: Okay, so after falling down a rabbit hole looking at images online, I noticed that VGA supposedly has 14 pins (with one missing in the middle row), while D-sub has 15. Is that how it works? If that's the case, then I've actually got a D-sub, not a VGA.

So, this HD 5670 should run fine without swapping out my power supply, right? It’s not exactly a power hog, and nothing else in my rig draws massive amounts of juice anyway. Honestly, I’d much rather be going with Nvidia, but once you drop a ton of cash on a new PC, you just deal with what you get. Until then, I guess I'm stuck with this ATI card.

EDIT: Just remembered another thing. My monitor uses an old-school 15-pin D-Sub connector to connect to the GPU. The monitor itself has both a 24-pin DVI port and that standard VGA setup, which matches what the new card offers. However, I don't have a dual DVI cable lying around. I do have an adapter that has DVI on one side and D-Sub on the other. Could I just plug that DVI end into the card and then run the D-Sub to the monitor? Or am I forced to buy a specific cable? I know there's a difference in signal quality, but how big is we're talking here? I saw the exact same card at a local shop in Des Moines, but that version lacks the D-Sub port—it's just DVI. It's actually more expensive $20 than the one on the website, but since I've shopped there a few times, I can probably snag a discount and break even. Plus, it's closer to home. What's the actual difference between this one: and this one: Any major differences? Also, those little designations they list after "DDR5"—what are they actually about?

Nathan Reyes59 said:http://www.techcrunch.com

Honestly, you can't find anything else worth a damn with that kind of money.

I found this listing online for a graphics card: http://www.techcrunch.com
Check out this listing for a graphics card on Craigslist: http://www.techcrunch.com
Check out this listing for a graphics card over on Craigslist: http://www.techcrunch.com

All of this is way more powerful than that new high-end model, but honestly, it’s overkill for that no-name power supply—not to mention the processor.
If you're planning on running AutoCAD, you'd be better off going with an Nvidia card. That said, there’s really no point in buying anything modern from that lineup right now. $167.
The only thing worth looking at here is that used GTX 260, but honestly, it’s way too much for your processor and power supply to handle.

I wouldn't touch used gear if I were you, but is there really nothing else on the market that works? If we could get a comparison between this card and some other viable options, that would be great. I know I could just go find a review online myself, but it’s always easier to wrap my head around things when someone breaks it down for me in plain English. From what I can tell, this specific card was picked because of that fast DDR5 memory, whereas everything else in this price bracket is still stuck using DDR3. Also, I'm pretty sure my motherboard has a PCI-E x16 slot. 1.0And all those cards have... 2.0And this one from the link over at http://www.techcrunch.com has... 2.1I'm actually wondering if that's going to end up being some kind of compatibility headache.

Hey everyone. I'm looking to breathe some life into my current rig by picking up a new graphics card.

Here’s the breakdown of what I'm working with:

-I need a PCI-E card.
-Intel Core 2 Quad; LGA 775; Clock speed: 2310.6 MHz
-My monitor maxes out at 1920x1080 (though I don't necessarily need to game at that resolution).
-The motherboard is an MSI k9n6pgm2-v2 (ms 7309) 2.0
-3 GB of RAM
The power supply is just the stock one that came with the case—probably somewhere around 350 or 400 Watts.
-Budget is up to $167.
-I'll be shopping at Best Buy in Indianapolis, or maybe just hitting up whatever local shops are nearby.
-Basically, I need this card for gaming, plus running AutoCAD and SketchUp.

Sean Gonzalez95 said:Just winging it..🤣
Man, he's losing it today.

That is exactly what I was getting at! 😂😂😂

Brandon Lee12 said:It actually worked!!!!!!!!!!!
You're a legend, seriously!!!
Haven't clicked the link yet, but I'm hyped lol xD

🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏

Don't mention it. Glad I could help out. See? It’s not rocket science—there isn't a formula out there you can't crack if you try.

😁 😁

Brandon Lee12 said:rustyfox7, that's not what I meant... check out this link and look at the picture where there's a cube root... I actually want that little number two sitting under the radical xD
I guess you didn't explain that part, or maybe I just missed it 😁
Either way, thanks 😁

So, I finally realized you're trying to type out math formulas in Microsoft Word 7
And I thought I already covered this. You want that exponent sitting right under the square root symbol, right? Let me walk you through it again. Look, go to "Insert," then find the "Equation" button—the one with the Pi symbol. That opens up a whole menu with fractions, radicals, exponents, integrals, and all that good stuff. Pick the radical option, and a few different types of roots will pop up; just grab the first one. Once that root appears on your screen, click inside the tiny little box tucked under the radical—it should highlight when you hover over it—and then use the superscript tool from the top menu to set your power. After that, you'll have three little boxes under the root to fill in whatever numbers you need. It works pretty much the same way for any formula you can dream up. Just read through my previous instructions carefully and follow them step-by-step. Let me know if it works!

😁 😁

EDIT: Here's a link that might make those highlighted boxes easier to understand. Just follow along with this guy, but instead of picking his fractions and symbols, just pick whatever specific ones you're looking for.
EDIT2: I might as well drop a link here, haha. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8WTSQFEhvg

Brandon Lee12 said:So, here’s the deal... I need to write up some calculations for a college assignment, and I want the whole thing to look incredibly polished and professional.
The headache starts when I try to build formulas—specifically fractions and square roots. It won't let me apply an exponent or an index to whatever is sitting in the numerator, denominator, or under the radical...
Like, say I want to write a square root over a squared Sigma, and then there's more stuff hanging off the side of that Sigma...
I tried just copying and pasting, but it keeps blocking me. :S
I’m about to lose my mind here. If anyone knows a workaround, please help... thanks. 😁

I went through the exact same struggle, but then I finally figured out how the logic works. You go to "Insert" —> "Equation" (click on the "pi" symbol —> now all the options for fractions, exponents, roots, Sigmas, integrals, and all that other math junk will pop up). Pick "Fraction," for example (which opens up the specific types of fractions you want), select the first one (the one with a square in the numerator and a square in the denominator), and it writes itself right onto the page. Then, you highlight the little square in the numerator, go back up to the fraction/exponent/root menu, and swap it out—like putting a radical where that square used to be. Once that radical appears, you can highlight *that* and pick another option from the top bar (like adding an exponent inside the root). It sounds like a massive hassle, but trust me, once you stare at it for five minutes, it clicks. Let me know if that works for you.

😁 😁