9 posts shown.
analogtrucker13 said:So, look, I'm hoping someone here actually knows their stuff because I’m pretty much flying blind when it comes to hydraulic setups. Right now, I'm running mechanical brakes, but I’m thinking about making the jump to hydraulics—specifically looking at the Formula K24s. Since I don't really have any experience with this, I could use some help. Basically, can I just buy these brakes and swap them onto my bike exactly as they were with the mechanical ones? Everything seems to come in one kit with the Formula setup, but I'm wondering if I'll need to run out to a shop and pick up extra parts just to get the hydraulics to sit where the mechanicals used to be.
The rotors need to have the same mounting style—either Centerlock or a 6-bolt setup. If the new brakes come bundled with a rotor, you should also get some caliper spacers (though usually, if rotors are included, those spacers are too). Also, if you're planning on upgrading to a larger diameter rotor, you definitely need to check the manufacturer's website for your fork to make sure it can handle that size. Most of the time it's fine, but it's worth a quick double-check.
First thing—just buy used. You can usually snag them for nearly half the price.
Second off, those Juice 5s are incredible brakes. Honestly, they’ll blow your current setup out of the water. They're way easier to modulate, you can pretty much pull them with just one finger without your hands cramping up, and the build quality is just on another level...
There's probably more I could say, but I guess someone else will jump in and cover that.
I’ve got a tubeless setup running on my Har, and since I mostly stick to downhill, they’ve been holding up perfectly without any issues.
If anyone’s looking to get set up, I don't mind doing it for $50 per pair of wheels—I'll use my own Joe's tubeless sealant and tools, and I can usually have it done by the next day or so.
Dana Reyes5 said:Don't sweat it. It’s never actually going to take off anyway.
loneviper15 said:He's just messing with you. There's no way it's taking flight.
-Nosonja
Look, flying isn't the issue—getting airborne is easy enough. You find a tall skyscraper and just jump...
The real problem is when you're just minding your own business, eating a banana a thousand feet up, and suddenly lightning decides to fry your ass.
Just one question—back when that Zeppelin first got hit by lightning, it caught fire and went down. I've heard people claim planes still crash today because of that, which gets me thinking... what actually happens when lightning strikes a vehicle that’s already supercharged? You've got all that metal, friction in the bearings, maybe even someone wearing cotton clothes, all while being pulled along by some lightning-attracted object. What's the physics there?
Or, you know, what if a chicken flies straight into a propeller?
And regarding the permits—what kind of license are we even talking about here? Is it for a plane, a helicopter, a glider, or just some weird hybrid of everything?
analogseal72 said:I ride XC... pure... I actually prefer climbs twice as much as the descents... weird, I know, but that's just how it is.. 🙂
So yeah, that’s basically where we differ.
Don't hit me for this, but that's just my take—I can't really wrap my head around cutting corners when it comes to making sure every single part is perfect. I mean, the speeds and the risk of getting hurt are way higher in DH or freeride, let alone XC.
Everyone said their piece, everyone saw the point, and we all get it. Goodnight, see you out on the trails!👍
I hear you, but honestly, it’s the same deal as brake pads and rotors—you can swap them out once the rotor itself basically disintegrates (okay, maybe a bit dramatic, don't hate me), or just when you notice those deep grooves forming. The difference is that the first scenario is way more sketchy. Why? Because once those grooves show up, the surface has basically become too "smooth"—if that makes sense—so there's less friction. You'll still stop, but it won't be as sharp.
Think of it like that old chemistry experiment from high school—put two frogs in a container. If you drop one into boiling water immediately, it’s going to jump right out. But if you put the other one in lukewarm water and slowly crank up the heat, the frog stays in the container until it's too late.
I know, I know, that sounds totally ridiculous and a little dark, but I couldn't help myself.
But seriously, it's the same thing with your bike parts—you leave them on there until your eyes tell you they're ready for the bin. Look, maybe you and I just ride completely different ways (I mostly do downhill and freeride, plus enough stunts to ensure I spend a fair amount of time kissing the dirt, so I tend to be pretty cautious), but I just don't see why anyone would take that risk, regardless of anything else.
analogseal72 said:it lines up with what I quoted earlier—DOT 4 isn't mineral oil...
So, my new bike has Hayes brakes, which means I'll probably have to deal with all this in about a year or so, I guess.😁
I don't know why you're overthinking this, man.
God forbid you end up without brakes just because of something as trivial as switching out the fluid for $33.🤷
analogseal72 said:if you want a bigger rotor, you obviously have to buy a bigger rotor. Plus, you'll need an adapter for whatever size you pick so the caliper actually fits on there, I guess...
oil depends on which brakes you're running. some take mineral oil, others use DOT fluid. maybe don't mess around with it too much while everything is working fine, but if things go south and you aren't comfortable bleeding disc brakes, just take it to a shop... my Shimano 525s have been going strong for three years without a single bleed , just swapping pads, so it’s not exactly a weekly chore...
It might be smarter to just change the fluid. It eventually loses its properties and instead of absorbing moisture—whatever the science is there, it evaporates or something, I don't really know—moisture builds up in the system. That can cause internal corrosion, which might lead to a hose bursting right when you need it most.
electricotter9 said:Don't mess with bleeding them yourself. Take it to a mechanic, because it isn't as simple as just opening it up and pouring fluid in.
Bleeding brakes isn't rocket science. If you look up the process online, you'll probably get the hang of it without too much trouble—though I suppose you do need a clear head and a decent amount of patience to pull it off.