None of those suggestions really did the trick. I tried running a Windows repair, but as soon as it started downloading something and attempting to load, it just kicked me right back to that same error—something like 0E000000. At this point, I think my best bet is to just download a fresh version of Windows and try from there.
Larry Ortiz5 said:Check out this video and see if it helps you out.
To be clear, there isn't really such a thing as a "pirate version" of Windows. What actually happens is that some people, especially on torrent sites, strip out certain programs or bundle extra stuff into the installation—basically modified versions of Windows with all sorts of custom themes or pre-installed updates up to a specific date. Personally, I think that’s just asking for trouble. It’s much better to find a clean, original setup rather than dealing with the nonsense I mentioned above. At the end of the day, what really matters is having a valid product key, which you can usually pick up at a retailer for around $100.😁
For example, here is a page where you can find the original Windows 7 setup. It has all the different versions available, and it's completely legitimate and free to download.
I'm pretty sure that's where I downloaded mine from, though I might have messed up by downloading the SP1 version when I didn't actually have SP1 installed yet. I'll give this a shot and let you know how it goes.😉 Do you think that "Repair Windows" option might actually help?
So, I had an original version of Windows 7 on my laptop, but because I wasn't thinking clearly, I decided to try and reinstall the OS myself. I ended up downloading a clean version from somewhere online, but the CD key didn't match up. Windows 7 threw some error codes at me, so I called the automated activation line, typed in the numbers they gave me, and hey—it actually worked. But there’s a catch: it keeps throwing errors constantly. It’s one of those "it works, but it doesn't work" situations, and I'm dealing with one specific error that is driving me absolutely insane. I can't seem to fix it no matter what I try. Before this started, I was getting a DLL error, so I grabbed some files from the internet and dropped them into system32, but then this current issue popped up and nothing—not even any patches or updates—seems to help. Am I just looking at a total reinstall of a pirated version of Windows 7 at this point?
So, I’ve been trying to get the new Windows 10 running, but I'm running into some trouble because my drivers aren't up to date. My laptop is packing an NVIDIA GeForce GT 540M, so I went ahead and installed the latest drivers along with some AMD software... and then my laptop screen just went completely black. I tried plugging it into an external monitor via HDMI, but now the image looks all weird and shrunk down. I'm seeing this black border around the desktop—any idea what on earth is going on or how I can fix this? I ended up uninstalling the driver to get things working again, but obviously, if I actually want to play anything, I'm going to need it back.
Could you help me understand why Intel... honestly, I’m a bit skeptical about them. Plus, the heat issue is a real headache for me; my room gets absolutely sweltering in the summer because it faces south...
Since I'm typing this on my phone, would you mind giving me a bit more detail regarding the processor?
Here’s the situation: my Pentium keeps overheating and acting up constantly, and honestly, I’ve reached my limit with it.
I'm looking to switch over to an AMD setup—specifically a CPU, motherboard, and RAM. My budget is roughly $267, though I’d definitely prefer to keep it as low as possible... I realize that might be a tall order since I'm not entirely sure what current market prices look like.
I'm really leaning toward avoiding Intel unless the price is just too good to pass up—maybe around $200... The specific model doesn't matter much to me, as long as it outperforms my current 3.0GHz Intel chip, or at least matches it if we need to stay strictly within budget. I'll need a DDR3 motherboard, and regarding RAM, more is better; I'd love to hit 4GB since I run CAD software, but if that's out of reach, I'll start with 2GB.
Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed by all the options; there are so many different retailers out there and I have no idea where to find the best deals.
I’ve been using my Dell UltraSharp 23 for about two years now, and honestly, it’s been great. It’s got VGA, DVI, and HDMI ports, so you can practically use it as a TV if you want to. Plus, it didn't break the bank when I bought it.
In my experience, I’ve only ever run into this kind of issue when there was something physically wrong with the processor itself... you might have accidentally bent a pin or something similar during installation...
I’m a little confused about that student Amex card, though... the fine print says you can usually split purchases into up to 10 interest-free installments, but is there an option to stretch those payments out even longer if we're willing to pay interest? And if so, does anyone know what kind of APR we'd be looking at?
Has anyone here ever gone through the process of taking out a student loan to cover tuition? I'm curious about what kind of paperwork I'll need to get everything sorted out.
You won't be able to make payments toward your American Express... nothing happens. You've got a limit of about $200... whatever you spend just gets deducted from your available credit. Keep in mind, this is a credit card, not a debit card linked directly to your checking account. It might actually be better to use a Visa instead, especially if someone manages to get a hold of your account details; you don't want to end up overdrawn on your actual bank balance.
Has anyone checked out the new promotion from Amex? They’re offering 24 interest-free installments through PayPal... from what I can tell, there isn't even a minimum purchase requirement. I’m thinking about picking up a few things near $250—do you think they'd actually approve me for the 24-month plan? It would be roughly $10 per month. Just a heads-up, I'm currently using a student Amex card
Is there any way to receive a package anonymously? I mean, without having to give my home address or anything like that to the sender. I saw they have some kind of PO Boxes, but I don't really get how the process works... I just need this for one single shipment.
darkowl72 said:Yeah, you could definitely make that work. However, the whole idea is to plug the mini-receiver into a port near your monitor stand. If you just plug the receiver directly into the PC tower, it ends up being too far away from your keyboard and mouse, which weakens the signal and drains the batteries way faster. But if you use an extension cable and keep the receiver right there by the monitor, the battery life is incredible... honestly, with the keyboard, you'll probably forget the last time you even swapped them out...
That’s exactly what I was thinking... alright, thanks!
darkowl72 said:Given how long you've been hanging around this forum, you should have noticed that nobody actually posts images this huge.😬
Logitech is top-tier, provided everything is working as intended. Their peripherals are honestly unbeatable. That said, you can't really split the set up if you're relying on a single mini-receiver, since both the keyboard and the Logitech MX600 mouse are paired to it...
My bad... I'm looking at this on a 23-inch monitor, so it's a little tough for me to judge what looks small versus what looks large.😁😁 So... is this cable basically just acting as a USB extension?
I have a few questions about this bundle... I’ve got a chance to pick it up used and in great condition for $67... I'm not entirely sure how the market is moving right now, but for a Logitech keyboard and mouse combo, the price seems pretty reasonable to me. They’re about two years old... Is it worth grabbing? Also, I was thinking about splitting the set since I really only need the mouse, and I could just pass the keyboard along to my brother.
The main thing is that I really need a step up in terms of mouse quality; I work in 3D software all day, so cheap, low-end gear just won't cut it. I've been looking at some Logitech options priced around $400-$167, which feels like a massive stretch for my budget right now, and I'm not sure if I'll ever be able to swing that. This setup would be a huge help for my workflow.
I'll post some photos as soon as they finish uploading...
darkmaker94 said:You can. Just head over to your payment portal, fill it out, and the money hits your checking account instantly.
Thanks so much for that.😉
But I have one more question... is there an extra fee for that JPMorgan Chase package beyond the standard $1.75 for my checking account?
I ended up getting the mobile banking setup along with the phone token because they told me I’d have to pay a $17 monthly membership fee if I just wanted the standard hardware token... so I went with that. However, I just deactivated the mobile access online since I can't even get the app to install on my current phone, and it was eating up data on my other device anyway. So, how much am I actually paying for this?$2.75 Am I still being charged for it, or does deactivating it stop the fees?
