Posts by wiredotter14

Just post it here. I don't even own an HP anymore. The OP needs advice, not me, and I’ve got zero interest in jumping into DMs.

Whatever, I didn't start this thread and I don't really care

Feel free to drop a public suggestion for a better fix here—like, what exactly should I buy? And if you aren't being secretive about it, share those "experiences" you mentioned (that was the topic in 🙄)

@taipan, my bad on the quotes, was stuck using my phone

Rembrandt, what I suggested is pretty much in line with most third-party inks out there (similar to that link taipan shared from a supplier site)

My suggestion comes from actual experience and solid reviews, not some deep dive into technical theory or expert debate.

Look, just give me a specific recommendation—a direct link—if you think there's a better way. Of course other options exist, but unless you provide a concrete solution, this conversation isn't going anywhere.

Look, I haven't gone down the rabbit hole of technical specs, and I'll be the first to admit I don't know the deep science behind it. My knowledge comes mostly from hands-on experience.

The Seller I suggested has been solid in my book, and clearly, thousands of people on Amazon agree—their product ratings are stellar, including the Epson stuff we're talking about here.

So, come on, tell me specifically why you think my suggestion is bad.

From where I'm sitting, this looks like a thoroughly vetted product.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Compatible-E...ks+epson+t1811

hollowmarlin27 said:I checked the link you sent. It's definitely a Chinese manufacturer. Believe me or don't. Your call.

That doesn't mean Chinese manufacturers can't produce quality stuff when they actually want to. You just aren't accounting for one thing: a single Chinese merchant usually has at least three different tiers of quality and price for the exact same product. Once someone starts haggling with them after being happy with the initial quality, the seller gets incredibly flexible because they’ve got two other versions up their sleeve that look identical.

So, you test them out today and get an excellent product, but tomorrow, once your dealer squeezes them for a better price, you'll get something that looks exactly the same but costs 50% less because of how the Chinese manufacturer operates.

That's just how it works on eBay.

Everything you said is absolutely true, and I never claimed the ink wasn't Chinese (honestly, I've received some that were German-made, but most have no branding, so the safe bet is that they're from China).

I recommend this vendor based strictly on my experience with them, their massive sales volume, and the huge amount of ink we've already bought from them.

But you're looking at a link and concluding the ink is Chinese, then dismissing the possibility that it's high quality—as if American companies aren't selling Chinese ink. Even if they do refill it themselves, that doesn't mean it's better; in my experience, it's right in the same range as the cheapest stuff on eBay.

Bottom line, my recommendation is based on the fact that this ink has printed through about 400kg of paper, and we're still getting the same reliable quality from this supplier.

If they turn out to be bad in the future, I'll switch suppliers. Until then, they're better than any American suppliers we've tried.

edit:

Here, specifically regarding these inks—I've bought smaller quantities for a home Epson printer, but this is what we've used for almost everything.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-XL-Ink-...item3a7b207e91

edit2:

The same brand is sold on Amazon and through their direct website.

You can see it here via Amazon, and I think Amazon reviews give a much more solid picture of reliability compared to eBay.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Go-Inks%C2%A...=Go+Inks%C2%AE

analogtiger19 said:Setting aside what jadebison17 posted, how much overclocking headroom are we actually looking at with an LC-CC-120?☕

The i5 4690k is solid. I'd say hitting 4.2 or 4.3 GHz shouldn't be an issue.

We need to figure out what this guy actually wants. Is he aiming for the absolute max overclock this processor can handle, or is he just looking for a measly 15% bump in performance?

There’s no point in going overkill anyway—certainly not when you're dealing with those kinds of perversions. $267 You’re better off just putting that money toward Skylake.

P.S.

It depends on what kind of GPU they're running. If someone's dropping that much cash on a CPU, they probably have—or are planning to get—a serious graphics card. You also need to think about power supply limits, especially if you're looking at overclocking or any future upgrades. (PSU is a Corsair 500W, but which specific model?)
What’s even the point? Why sink a ton of cash into an overclocking setup if it’s just going to be unstable? Total waste of money.

hollowmarlin27 said:Look, I’m telling you, the merchant is basically baiting customers with lies. Sure, maybe there's 13 ml in the cartridge, but you can't actually use more than 5 ml because the printer's software is hardcoded with specific pulse limits for this type of chip.

There are plenty of these "XL" cartridges out there using different chips, but some shady Chinese manufacturer just prints one single box design that screams "13 ml" because they know gullible consumers will grab whatever looks best on paper. It doesn't matter if it's objectively false.

Or put simply: the Chinese manufacturer stuffs both 13 ml and 7.5 ml—or even 5.5 ml and 3.5 ml—into the exact same boxes. It’s way more profitable to mass-produce one type of packaging and just slap on a different label or chip sticker depending on what's actually inside.

It couldn't be easier for the manufacturer or the seller. They just

>>> give the customer exactly what they want to see.div>

True. I’ve dealt with random inks from eBay before, but at the end of the day, it all comes down to the quality of the specific product you get.
So far, my experiences with inks bought here in the States (which are probably just Chinese ink anyway) have been terrible.

The stuff I linked on eBay isn't even the cheapest option available. You can find inks for a couple of bucks a piece, but they die faster and clog things up more.

I didn't link that seller for no reason; we've been ordering from them for years and the ink has always been high-quality and lasted a long time (their Brother inks are better than anything else we've tried).
The Seller is reliable, ships from the United Kingdom, and has responsive customer service. Plus, shipping is a $17 five-pound flat rate, regardless of how much you order.

As for whether his chip has specific pulse counts... I'm not an expert, but my experience tells me they are extremely reliable.

To each their own. Over the last four years or so, we've burned through about 15 to 20 large reams of A4 paper—lots of heavy, dense printing—and we haven't had a single issue with GO Inks.

That's the gist of it. I'm not trying to sell anyone anything or act like an expert; I'm just sharing my own positive experience.

hollowmarlin27 said:It’s just a classic merchant's gimmick.

For one simple reason: it doesn't matter what the box claims about ink volume. What actually matters is how many print cycles are programmed into the chip.

The manufacturer decides the maximum number of pulses allowed in the chip via their firmware.

End of story.

That's why Option 3 was the only smart move from the start.

Are you seriously suggesting every single cartridge will print the exact same number of pages?
In my experience, that's just not true. There are noticeable differences between third-party inks—not quite triple the yield, but you can tell, both in longevity and quality (how much they gunk up the Print Head, etc.).
With those cheap off-brand inks we used back in the States, we had nothing but trouble with Print Head clogging.

Anyway, I've had great luck with the Seller I linked. Shipping is reasonable; I'd definitely recommend them for orders over $10 or so.

If you're printing a lot, I highly recommend GO Inks

Shipping is just $5 regardless of how much you grab. Honestly, it ends up being cheaper than buying locally here in the States

The ink quality is solid. We’ve run tens of thousands of pages through our Brother and Epson printers using their stuff
We used to scramble and buy from local office supply shops when we were in a pinch, but GO Inks has proven to be more reliable and long-lasting

http://www.ebay.com/itm/16-Ink-Car...item84e514f442

- Capacity: 18.2ml (Bk) & 15ml (C/M/Y)

For comparison, the original T1801 only holds about 5ml of ink

Robert Rodriguez2 said:So, what's the problem? 😁 The 750 Ti is a beast. 😁

It’s all just filler at this point. Back then, I had half of another build—a 7850 and an i3—just sitting in a drawer, so I didn't bother upgrading that HPa. I just threw that spare parts together instead. But if I ever decide I need a second gaming rig, that’s the move: slap a 750Ti into a Sandy Bridge i5 build. 😁
I'm looking through some used hardware listings on this site. Just scanning the inventory to see what's actually worth the money.

That HP is solid. The PSU can handle just about any GPU you throw at it via the PCIe slot, and it's a full-size unit too. ☕

I'm ready. Send over the text.
This kind of deal only makes sense for people who need a machine with a legitimate Windows license pre-installed—especially if they plan on dropping in a decent GPU like a 750Ti later on.

haha, I’ve got two HP office machines with solid chassis, great airflow, decent CPU coolers, and i5 processors, but unfortunately, swapping out the power supply is impossible because of the proprietary connectors. That pretty much leaves me stuck with a GTX 750 Ti.

swiftfalcon89 said:Considering how much power that GPU pulls, you could probably run two Panasonic AA batteries just to keep a TV remote alive. 😁

Facts.

neonpuma7 said:Just finished peeking inside this open case. From what I can tell, the power supply is standard size, pretty much like the one in my desktop at home. The only difference is there's this tiny little fan built right into it—looks like an 80mm. Other than that, the component layout is just completely flipped compared to a normal PC. 🙂
Goddammit, everything is just working against me.

Getting an R7 250 off Craigslist tomorrow. Hopefully that power supply isn't about to go up in smoke. 🤔

Look, if you actually end up needing to swap out that power supply, just double-check the motherboard first. Make sure it has standard connectors and isn't some mythical nonsense.

Is this rig actually compatible with an ATX power supply regarding the connectors? And more importantly, will the PSU even fit inside the case? That’s something you’d need to double-check.

Depends on how much gaming you actually plan to do on that setup

With that monitor, an APU might barely cut it, but you really should aim for a dedicated GPU (the 7600 APU is pretty weak)

Here’s my take: with this card, you could hit decent performance at that resolution—or better yet, grab a Full HD monitor and get some solid results
Going any lower than something like this (around $300) is just a waste of money; a 260x is actually fine for newer titles on medium settings
You can skip the ODD entirely



HEXA shouldn't run into any issues with this combo
It would be smart to pick up a better case or at least an extra fan, though if you aren't gaming constantly, it isn't strictly necessary

That second build is alright, but maybe overkill depending on what you're actually using it for
Doesn't make sense to drop an i5 in there for light tasks while cheaping out on the parts where you actually need the GPU

electricharbor30 said:Thanks. Guess I'm not buying another PC then... Not in the mood for that kind of headache.

Pre-built brand name PCs are a massive pain for any GPU upgrade, even if you have a tower case.

Don't even get me started on those power supplies that lack any real wattage or even basic PCI-E connectors. Plus, your standard mATX units don't fit the dimensions, and you can't even plug them into the motherboard if you tried.

Is Windows 10 actually "worse" when it comes to running older apps?
Specifically, I'm talking about those accounting programs that run on MS-DOS which work fine on Windows 7.

you think

tests are run under identical conditions—same driver, same fuel, same track, same road conditions
Same CPU, RAM, motherboard, exact same game, and the exact same settings, then you measure the FPS (averages, lows, etc.)

So, tests actually measure RESULTS—real performance. You’re just sitting there measuring engine displacement or how big someone's damn exhaust pipe is

electricharbor30 said:Look, we're talking about cards released at basically the same time here... I agree Nvidia uses less power, has a better process, and is technically more advanced, but AMD gives you more raw muscle for fewer bucks. Sure, that 78XX beats both of those, but it’s older and probably sucks way more power too. Besides, the guy is using a 17-inch monitor—probably some low-res junk—and if he buys used, the thing could die on him tomorrow...

If you can't grasp what we're trying to say, there's really no hope for you.

It's totally fine if you don't think the testing conditions are realistic or relevant; feel free to go ahead and debunk them with your own tests. But people don't buy GPUs to Google specs—they buy them to play games.
Give us some actual data on how this hardware performs in real-world use.

See? Even these guys have some sort of quasi-evidence, while you've just got theories.

http://www.theflatearthsociety.org/cms/

electricharbor30 said:IMHO, factory specs matter way more than any real-world testing. It’s like choosing between a car with 300 hp or 400 hp—how much a specific driver can squeeze out of them doesn't change the math. You look at GPU-Z to see raw, factory power; that's what's relevant. If someone actually wants to see the truth, they can just tweak their AMD settings to match a competing Nvidia card and see how things hold up in reality. Most game benchmarks are pretty useless...

Saying that is like claiming a '65 Mustang with a primitive 200 hp 4.7L engine is "faster" than a modern Nissan just because it has more displacement under the hood.
Since you clearly know all the "tricks," why don't you run some tests under the conditions you consider "fair" and start your own blog?

Anyway, moving on—if people needed links to those sites, they could have just typed the card name into Google and picked from the top results.

Regarding the upgrade:
The 7870 is convincingly better than the others mentioned, and if you can afford it, I'd definitely recommend it to anyone in the US.
I'm running a 7850 myself, and it handled GTA V on solid settings (High) just fine.