Posts by wiredotter14

Nathan James2 said:The board is an ASUS P5 KPL/EPU with a G31 (Bearlake) chipset and ICH7.
I'm looking to spend about $15-$$667 max.
Should I just upgrade the CPU on this board and add more DDR2 and an SSD, or what?

If you're actually planning on spending that much, then take a look at what Bryan Taylor6 told you.

Thomas Flores74 said:Price is decent, but I don't really trust Newegg with this one.🤔
What's the deal with this AMD? It's just an NVIDIA GTX 750 Ti.

Honestly, the Asus card is the way to go.
At this price point, it isn't much more than a 260x or whatever, but it's significantly better and handles overclocking easily.
Total best buy.

Is there any actual chance we see a card drop in the next six months that beats out a 750Ti without needing an external PCI-E power connector?

Timothy Kim60 said:Capacity > warranty > speed

In my book—and I think most people agree—bigger SSD capacity beats everything else. You won't even notice the speed difference unless you're staring at benchmarks all day. For actual daily use? It's negligible.

Slightly off topic here, but:

That’s why I said it personally. Most people don't actually need a tiny 240GB high-speed drive; that's still way too small for any real data load. A 120GB SSD paired with a massive HDD sounds much better to me. Of course, if you specifically need that 240GB burst, go for it.

Timothy Kim60 said:It’s a solid value. You get plenty of music for the buck.

Fine for an old motherboard with slower SATA speeds, I guess, but personally? I’d rather just grab a decent 120GB SSD instead.

Timothy Kim60 said:Fine, then upgrading to a GTX 950 is a massive jump for you too.

There are cheaper SSDs out there if that one's hitting your wallet too hard. click

Wasn't there some hype about how the Kingston V300 was garbage?

Adam Moore3 said:Is asking $133 for a 6850 actually realistic? It comes with the full bundle and works perfectly—even had the thermal paste replaced. The cheapest one on Newegg is sitting at $167. Honestly, this looks like the only decent deal I've found on Newegg—KLIK. Or maybe a 6950 for a similar price. Since the performance is roughly in the same ballpark and the 7850 is newer, I think the 7850 is the better move. Also saw an NVIDIA GeForce GTX 570 for $250. Worth it or not?

I'd warn you that the XFX card from that link probably has a nightmare of a fan. I had an NVIDIA GeForce GTX 260 from what looked like the exact same cooler series and it was a disaster—sounded like a plane landing in my room. Even worse since the 7850 pulls more power than the 260X. If you can find something else for $33, I'd rather grab that. Otherwise, it's a solid price for a 7850 (I own two and they're great; there's plenty of headroom for moderate OC if the cooler isn't garbage)

this is the culprit: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814150688

crimsonstag84 said:Yeah, an overclocked HD 7850/R7 265.

I dropped $417 on my 7850 2GB about two and a half years ago.

At today's exchange rate, $370 would be roughly $333. Still way too much.

crimsonstag84 said:A bit weaker, maybe 15-20%.

Just looked it up and realized the 370 is basically just a Pitcairn based on the HD 7850 🤦

Read somewhere earlier that it isn't a rebrand 😳

crimsonstag84 said:You've got a pretty decent platform here, so you might want to look into a GTX 950 (if you can swing another ~$83) since it's significantly faster. Your CPU should be a perfect match for it:

http://www.bestbuy.com/msi-video-card-...vi-retail.aspx

How does the R7 370 stack up against it?

mod, seriously, just delete this crap

folks, don't even bother arguing with tenkre

Well, Google Chrome actually comes with an integrated flash player (other Chromium browsers like Opera don't)

thanks!

Looking for 120GB, maybe up to $500 if I can find it. Or eventually maybe $800 for 240GB.

Jeffrey Chavez6 said:I noticed some versions of the Apple MacBook Air come with mSATA slots. Maybe you could just use it as a cache instead of running the OS off it? Better check on that.

If you're looking at standard SSDs, I’d suggest going with Kingston's HyperX Fury or OCZ ARC 100. Avoid the V300, and stay away from the Blaze too.

Same logic applies to the larger capacities.
http://www.nabava.net/search.php?tp=0&q=crucial+250gb
http://www.nabava.net/search.php?tp=...GB+HyperX+FURY
http://www.nabava.net/search.php?tp=0&q=ARC+100+240GB
http://www.nabava.net/search.php?tp=...D+Ignite+240GB

Thanks for the tips!

Regarding that whole thing with one or two drives—it’s about this laptop:
Check this out: http://www.apple.com/macbook-air/specs/nx.m1fsn.004

As far as I know, there’s only room for one drive, so obviously the Hard Drive is getting kicked out. Also, from what I've gathered, all those 7mm SSDs should slide right into a laptop without any issues.
Correct me if I'm wrong.

Anyway, I'm on a tight budget, so I'll probably just... $250 Just buy another 4GB of RAM. Your current 4GB is going to get eaten alive the second you open more than a few tabs or launch a couple of programs.
Got an old 450GB SSHD 450 sitting in a laptop. Thinking about tossing it into a 2.5" enclosure. I've already got another one from a Toshiba drive in an external bay.

Not to go off topic here, but can we all agree that the Intel stuff, those OCZ drives, and the Kingston HyperX are all solid and compatible?

edit:
Just realized what all the fuss was about. This Intel drive is actually mSATA.
I think my laptop might be missing an mSATA slot, but I'll double-check.

A 120 GB Solid State Drive should be around $167.

Look, I just need the cheapest decent SSD out there.

Is this one alright?

http://www.amazon.com/product_info.php?products_id=16593

Basically, I need some advice on where to pick up an SSD from a webshop or a local store in the Washington, D.C. area.

Looking for an SSD for my laptop (Apple MacBook Air)

Probably 120GB, maybe 240GB if I'm lucky. Capacity isn't my main concern since I've got external Hard Drives lying around, but 60GB is definitely too small.

Did some digging and the cheapest ones are all Kingston Technology, but I've heard some pretty bad things about them—apparently they use subpar memory chips.

Posting this under Desktop computer because people here actually talk about components, and as far as I know, SSDs are pretty universal. (Also, I'm assuming I need the 7mm version?)

One more thing... regarding laptop RAM, when it says "Memory Voltage: 1.35; 1.5 V"

Is that fine? Like, if I specifically need 1.35V memory, will that work?

EDIT: These Patriot Blaze drives are also available and pretty cheap. Are they any good?

Thanks in advance!

Larry Ortiz5 said:You can reactivate Windows without any issues. Just make sure you wipe the hard drive before you move everything over to the SSD, otherwise, the activation might get messy when you try to run them both at once.

So you think having two installations wouldn't cause a conflict?
got it, thanks

Now I just have one more question: which Microsoft Office should I get, and where's the best place to buy it?

By the way, if I decide to drop an SSD into that Workstation, can I just reinstall Windows using the key on the sticker?
(Just trying to get an SSD in there to speed things up and actually be productive for once)

fadedorca66 said:If I were you, I'd grab that Workstation. The deal sounds solid. What kind of software are we talking about here? You might not even need that extra 4GB of RAM.

Timothy Kim60 said:Look, if by "multitasking" you mean just running some Office docs and PDFs, 4GB is plenty. Personally, I’m running Windows 7 right now with about 30 browser tabs, 15 PDFs, and maybe 5 Word docs open, and I'm only hitting 1.9GB of RAM usage.

It's a pretty clean build.🙂
Mine sits at around 1.5GB with nothing running, but once I load up dozens of tabs and various documents, I'm easily pushing past 5GB.

At the office, we just use some basic accounting software. It's not heavy on resources, but we handle massive files—lots of PDFs, high-res images, etc.
4GB would probably cut it, but since this is the budget option, I figured I'd upgrade it a bit just to be safe.

Regarding Office, does anyone know which version is actually legal for business use (besides Office 365)?
Home and Business costs way more than Home and Student.