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Posts by wiredotter14

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GPU Buying Guide - (Read first post) in Desktops ·
swiftfalcon89 said:Wait, is this some kind of joke or what? 😁

🍿
Need some upgrade advice! in Desktops ·
wanderingbison9 said:Can I get a quick gut check here? A friend of mine is asking about upgrading his RAM by adding another 2x4GB of DDR3 to his Asus A88xm-v setup running an A10-7800... right now, he’s rocking some Vengeance 1333 that hits 1600 via an XMP OC profile at 9-9-9-24, and I'm looking at this 2x4GB kit of Apacer DDR3 1600 CL11... I realize it might slightly throttle the performance of the Vengeance sticks, but the price is under $100 while the Vengeance is sitting at $128. Naturally, I'm hitting some pushback regarding the cost since this isn't exactly a high-end machine... would there be any actual issues running that Apacer alongside the Vengeance? The Apacer is listed as compatible on the motherboard's QVL.

Shouldn't be any issues, it'll just run at CL11 latency.
Just order it online; worst case scenario, you return it within the 14-day window.
GPU Buying Guide - (Read first post) in Desktops ·
I'm not sure what you mean by having "problems." Maybe it’s just how you're approaching the situation. I know plenty of people running high-end rigs and plenty more using ancient junk, but nobody ever makes a big deal out of it, and they certainly aren't out here spamming photos of their RAM sticks everywhere.

As for cooling, I don't get the obsession with Microsoft for $97. There are plenty of decent coolers out there for $33 that do the job just fine.
It makes zero sense to overspend on a massive cooler if you're still trying to pinch pennies on a 19"
monitor.
Budget?

Basically, any Surface should handle an e-pen just fine. You've got the Surface Go if you want a cheaper 10" option, or the Surface Pro if you actually need some power.

They don't support Android out-of-the-box, but you could always sideload Android or just run Android apps through Windows.

As for the leveling, the screen should only pick up the pen when you're actually using it.
PC Build Ideas: $1,500 - $1,800 Budget in Desktops ·
👍👍
Timothy Kim60 said:Unless you're in a massive rush, I’d hold off until summer. Between the Ryzen 3000 series dropping and prices for the RTX 2080 and Radeon VII likely tanking—the Radeon VII is already getting much cheaper—even a 2070Ti might end up being the smarter play.
PC Build Ideas: $1,500 - $1,800 Budget in Desktops ·
Alright, your build is better balanced, so it actually makes sense as it stands.

But that bottleneck you're pointing out? At 1440p, you'll mostly see that once you hit 120+ FPS, and honestly, in some titles, the RTX 2080 is going to be the bottleneck instead.
$1167 That's a lot for an 8-core processor without multithreading. We really need to see how it handles streaming—if they rely on software rendering, we'll see the real impact on the Core i7 8700K's performance.

Otherwise, it's fine. For 1440p at 144Hz, what you've put together is pretty much optimal, assuming there aren't any future upgrades in the works.

If I had that budget, I’d also aim for 1440p 144Hz.
But if someone is dead set on going 4K, then the RTX 2080 Ti + Ryzen combo is the smarter play. The CPU bottleneck would be practically non-existent, except maybe in niche cases like CS:GO running at 200FPS or Arma—those kinds of games that just love Intel.

P.S.

Just grab Windows from Microsoft and pick up a key on eBay for a few bucks.
PC Build Ideas: $1,500 - $1,800 Budget in Desktops ·
swiftfalcon89 said:A total disaster.
The Ryzen 1700 is a garbage choice for 144Hz gaming.
The motherboard, PSU, case, and cooler are all bottom-tier junk considering this guy is dropping $3,000 on a PC.

Too much cutting corners just to squeeze in a 2080 Ti, when an RTX 2080 would be perfectly fine for 1440p. Plus, I seriously doubt a 1700 can even handle a 2080 Ti without a massive bottleneck, which basically puts you back at RTX 2080 performance anyway.

The power supply and other parts aren't "junk"—they just match what they're intended for. You could swap the board for something else in a similar price range.

I generally agree with the rest, though I think the bottleneck will shift depending on the specific game, which isn't a dealbreaker. Besides, it leaves the door open for an upgrade to a 7nm chip later. On the flip side, an 8-core i7 without multithreading is pretty lousy value for $1167, especially since the guy mentioned streaming.

An RTX 2080 is a solid card for 1440p; you won't regret it. My suggestion gives you a higher-tier card, better multithreading, and a decent upgrade path.
PC Build Ideas: $1,500 - $1,800 Budget in Desktops ·
1 * Palit GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Dual, 11GB GDDR6
SKU: pal-2080ti-11gb - $3048

1 * AMD Ryzen 1700X AM4, 3.4Ghz
SKU: AMD-YD170XBCAEWOF - $533

1 * ASRock X370 Gaming X, AM4
SKU: asr-x370-gam-x - $348

1 * Apple monitor LC32HG70QQUXEN
SKU: 0225003 - $1373

1 * GSkill Aegis 16GB (2x8) DDR4 3000MHz
SKU: F4-3000C16D-16GISB - $233

1 * Kingston A1000 NVMe 480GB, R1500/W900, M.2 2280
SKU: king-a1000-480g - $213

1 * Desktop HDD Dell Inspiron (3.5 1TB, 7200RPM, 64MB, NCQ, AF, SATAIII), bulk
SKU: HDWD110UZSVA - $113

1 * SAMA ARMOR 750W Power Supply, 80+ GOLD, Modular
SKU: 0151337 - $183

1 * LC-Power LC-CC-120 Cooler, Intel/AMD + AM4
SKU: lcp-hlad-lc-cc-120 - $60

1 * SilentiumPC Regnum RG4 Case, Black, 3x120mm
SKU: 29150644 - $113

Total: $6217
-2% = $6092
also from Future

The Ryzen 1700X works fine for streaming. Multithreading helps—you get 16 threads instead of just 8 on a Core i7 9700K. The savings here are enough to squeeze in an RTX 2080 Ti, which definitely outranks the RTX 2080.
Not totally sold on this motherboard being the perfect pick, but it fits the tier.
Other than that, it's a platform that can handle a next-gen 7nm processor later.
Need some upgrade advice! in Desktops ·
What’s the goal here? Why the upgrade?
The 2500K is old, sure, but it isn't garbage. If you don't care about the GPU, I'm assuming this isn't for gaming.
If that's the case, a Core i5 is your best bet for multithreaded performance.
The absolute best value right now is the 1600X; for $0.35 you get a 6-core processor with multithreading.
https://www.amazon.com/amd-ryzen-processor...m_medium=click

It's cheap and doesn't come with a cooler, but with a decent aftermarket one, it'll stay cool and quiet.
https://www.newegg.com/p/arctic-cooler...m_medium=click

You don't strictly need to overclock it—the X model has decent stock clocks—but it's easy to bump it up to around 4GHz with just a few clicks.

You could go for the 2600, but it’s pricier. It comes with a stock cooler that's fine if you aren't overclocking, but an aftermarket one is quieter, so 1600X plus a dedicated cooler will be the quieter setup.

This is a solid motherboard; I don't think you need anything more heavy-duty.
https://www.newegg.com/msi-b450-tomahawk...m_medium=click
Regarding the two M.2 slots and RAID: I don't think you can run two NVMe drives in RAID, unless someone wants to correct me.
Besides, using NVMe RAID is pretty pointless if you're actually chasing speed.
If you're looking for redundancy while still wanting SSD speeds, just grab two 500GB SATA SSDs and put them in RAID.

BTW, B450 and X470 boards come with StoreMI software, where you can use an SSD (even a small 256GB SATA one) to speed up an HDD. It's similar to Intel Optane.

As for the graphics, if you just need to "output a picture," you could get by with something like a GT 1030.
If you want something with actual teeth, go for the RX 580.
This model is a good pick:
https://www.newegg.com/sapphire-rx580...m_medium=click
Great cooler, features a 0rpm mode, so the fan won't even spin most of the time. You can also easily undervolt or underclock it, or just drop the power limit if you want it even quieter.

The alternative is the GTX 1650, but it's noticeably weaker than the RX 580 for a similar price. It pulls less power, but if you aren't running it hot, that's not a dealbreaker, and cheaper models usually have crappy coolers anyway. A decent RX 580 is the better move. The GTX 1650 is just overpriced for what it offers.

Otherwise, if you aren't in a rush, you could wait for the Ryzen 3000 series to drop this summer. It'll be the first on the 7nm process, so we're expecting big jumps in core counts, performance, and efficiency.
If you buy a 1600X now, you'll be able to upgrade to at least the 3000 series down the road since they promised motherboard compatibility.

On the Intel side, you could look at an i3-9400F, which is relatively cheap. I think you could even push two monitors through HDMI + DVI using the integrated graphics.
You'd save a lot of cash by skipping the GPU, but honestly, the Coffee Lake platform is a dead end for upgrades since you're buying a chip without multithreading.
swiftfalcon89 said:Look, we have to keep in mind that not everyone actually enjoys staring at a massive 27" or 32" monitor all day. Plus, not everyone has the desk setup or the ergonomic chair to support that kind of footprint. There might be a perfectly good reason why someone is insisting on a 24" screen—for some people, that’s pretty much the sweet spot for their workspace.

I'm not entirely sure what this guy is actually after. He claims he wants 1440p, but honestly, that makes zero sense on a 24" screen or smaller.
Amy Vaughn12 said:Honestly, hitting over 100 FPS is plenty for a smooth experience on a 144Hz monitor. I mean, sure, there's always going to be a handful of titles that struggle or demand way more power, but there will always be those ultra-demanding games designed specifically to push even the most high-end cards to their limits.
My point is that we're talking about a relatively small number of games here. In my opinion, you shouldn't really feel the need to sacrifice your screen size or your resolution—things that actually dictate how much you enjoy the game—just so a specific GPU can squeeze out a few extra frames.

The NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 is actually a solid card for 4K at 60Hz, while the NVIDIA RTX 2060 and the RX 590 are perfectly fine choices for 1440p.

The GTX 1080 Ti is 7% faster than the 1080, but 14% slower than the 2080.


If you want to play at 4K, you realistically need at least an RTX 2080, and even then, you’ll often dip well below 60FPS.

I’m running an RX580. It holds up okay at 1440p for older titles or Minecraft. It manages around 60 FPS, but for new AAA games, you have to tank the settings significantly.

4K 60Hz is basically on the same level as 1440p 144Hz.

The thing is, GPUs age fast. It's stupid to drop too much $1333 on a card that won't even hit 100 FPS in most demanding games now, let alone a year from now.

Dropping below 100 FPS puts you right near 75Hz, which is more realistic territory.
For this setup, 1440p 75Hz paired with a monitor like this would be perfect:
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/monitor-example-link

The guy clearly wants high-performance gaming. If that's the case, he needs a card that can actually sustain those speeds for a few years. Personally, I'd go with a 32" 1440p 75Hz setup.

Honestly, the smartest move is probably grabbing a GTX 1660 Ti and planning an upgrade in a year or two. Trying to push a card like the GTX 1080 Ti for high-refresh 1440p right now is pushing it.

P.S.

If he doesn't care about playing on high settings—meaning he's willing to lower them just to chase high FPS—then the GTX 1080 Ti works.
But if that's the case, the GTX 1660 Ti would work too.
The NVIDIA RTX 2070 isn't exactly built for 1440p at 144Hz. It’ll hold its own in certain titles, sure, but modern AAA games? No way it hits 100+ FPS at that resolution.

And you end up compromising on the motherboard, the CPU, and everything else in the process.
The build those guys put together for you is mostly fine, but an 8700 isn't going to fit K within your budget if you're grabbing a card at that level.

A better move is picking up an NVIDIA RTX 2060. It’s way more bang for your buck in terms of performance per dollar, and then you actually have room for the K processor.

BTW, 1440p on a 24" screen makes zero sense.
fadedviper26 said:Honestly, I wouldn't even mind just grabbing one massive HDD if it means I can save some cash.
A monitor that hits around 1440p at 144Hz would be perfect.
And yeah... let's be real, the price tag on this Nvidia GeForce RTX 2080 is an absolute joke.

4TB should be plenty.

I didn't quite catch what you meant about the monitor—do you want 1440p 144Hz larger than 24", or smaller?
Assuming larger.
From your first post, I gathered the monitor shouldn't exceed 24" and needs at least a 144Hz refresh rate, so basically a 24" 144Hz setup.

Either way, a monitor with those specs won't fit your budget, and even if someone handed it to you for free, an NVIDIA RTX 2080 isn't exactly built to push 100+ FPS at that resolution.
swiftfalcon89, that's the cash price, not for cards
That works out to $1,330 on a payment plan, which leaves enough room to grab a monitor like

https://www.amazon.com/monitors/...

1 * MSI Nvidia GeForce RTX 2080 VENTUS GDDR6 8GB/256bit, 1515MHz/14000MHz, PCI-E 3.0 x16, 3xDP, HDMI, USB Type-C, Torx 2x Cooler(Double Slot) Backplate, Retail
Retail Code: RTX_2080_VENTUS_8G - $1991

1 * MSI Z390-A PRO LGA1151,4DDR4, 2PCI-Ex16, 4PCI-Ex1,1M.2, 6SATA3, 2USB3.1 GEN2 ,6USB3.1
Retail Code: Z390-A_PRO - $342

1 * Kingston DDR4 HX Fury, 16GB (2x 8GB), 3200MHz
Retail Code: king-x432c18fbk-16 - $277

1 * Seagate HDD, 4TB, 5400rpm, SATA, 256MB
Retail Code: SGT-ST4000DM004 - $301

1 * Intel Core i5-9600K (3.7GHz, 9MB, LGA1151) box
Retail Code: BX80684I59600KSRELU - $740

1 * SAMA FORZA 750W 80PLUS GOLD
Retail Code: 0151380 - $173

1 * Kućište SilentiumPC Regnum RG4 Crno, 3x120mm
Retail Code: 29150644 - $113

1 * Hladnjak LC-Power LC-CC-120, Intel/AMD + AM4
Retail Code: lcp-hlad-lc-cc-120 - $60

Total: $3998

Needs to decide if dropping down to an Nvidia RTX 2060 makes sense. If he does that, he saves enough cash to jump up to an Intel Core i7-9700K. If he's playing competitively, CPU and FPS matter way more than maxed-out ultra settings. Better to future-proof on the processing side, especially since nothing much better is coming for that Intel socket/chipset anyway.

P.S. those Nvidia cards support FreeSync
Starting point.

The budget situation sucks because the actual best value sits just above what I want to spend.
Basically, an Nvidia GeForce RTX 2080 (roughly similar to an Nvidia GTX 1080 Ti) is pricey, and the Nvidia RTX 2070 is also expensive while being significantly weaker.

I went with the Intel Core i5-9600K because there's no other way to pair it with an Nvidia GeForce RTX 2080.
Could save some cash on the case, power supply, or cooler.
Could also jump to an Intel Core i7-8700 or Intel Core i7-9700K, but then the 2080 won't fit. Not much difference in price or performance, but for gaming, I think 8 cores without HT beats 6 cores with HT.

1 * MSI Nvidia GeForce RTX 2080 VENTUS GDDR6 8GB/256bit, 1515MHz/14000MHz, PCI-E 3.0 x16, 3xDP, HDMI, USB Type-C, Torx 2x Cooler(Double Slot) Backplate, Retail
Retail Code: RTX_2080_VENTUS_8G - $1991

1 * MSI Z390-A PRO LGA1151,4DDR4, 2PCI-Ex16, 4PCI-Ex1,1M.2, 6SATA3, 2USB3.1 GEN2 ,6USB3.1
Retail Code: Z390-A_PRO - $342

1 * Kingston DDR4 HX Fury, 16GB (2x 8GB), 3200MHz
Retail Code: king-x432c18fbk-16 - $277

1 * Seagate HDD, 4TB, 5400rpm, SATA, 256MB
Retail Code: SGT-ST4000DM004 - $301

1 * Corsair PSU, 650W, RMx Series
Retail Code: COR-CP-9020178-EU - $301

1 * Case SilentiumPC Armis AR3 TG-RGB Black, TG, 2x120mm
Retail Code: 29150643 - $150

1 * Noctua NH-D14 Cooler, Intel/AMD
Retail Code: NH-D14 - $190

1 * Intel Core i5-9600K (3.7GHz, 9MB, LGA1151) box
Retail Code: BX80684I59600KSRELU - $740

Total: $4292

Ends up being $4.75 on monthly installments.

In reality, the Nvidia GeForce RTX 2080 price is the main driver here. It would be "more cost-effective" to grab an Nvidia RTX 2060 for $3300 instead of $2200, but that's roughly performing like an Nvidia GTX 1080 Ti Ti.
1440p vs 1080p monitors? Which one's better?

Do I really need two HDDs, or can I just stick with one big one?
Dell Aspire One in Laptops ·
James Perez3 said:Maybe this sounds stupid, but I gotta ask. I picked up an Acer Aspire One AO756 the other day. Love the thing, works great, but there’s one tiny detail that’s driving me insane. The little plastic clip under the Shift key snapped. Now, every time I hit it, the whole key tilts to the side. I checked eBay, but it’s not worth buying a whole new keyboard just for one busted key—they're going for like $200-$83. Anyone know someone with a broken laptop of this model lying around, or maybe a trick to fix it? I thought about trying to DIY a plastic shim, but it's way too small. Thanks for any help.

Is there a right Shift?
Casey Mendoza3 said:You’ve got to take off the bottom panel. Ten screws holding it all together.


That shouldn't mess with the warranty.